Nitecore EA11 dead after a drop (now alive again)

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tatasal
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Streamer wrote:
I’m guessing it to only be thermal adhesive. I believe the driver sits on a shelf and is not going anywhere.

You did not answer if you could cycle light on and off with battery holder.

Yes, it can be cycled normally with the battery holder.

tatasal
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What happens if my brass spacer ring touches that long, horizontal thing?

Overclocker
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grind away this edge. to permit the body tube to screw in further

tatasal
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Overclocker wrote:

grind away this edge. to permit the body tube to screw in further

I just checked the head and that part where the arrow is does not touch anything in the tube.

GRAY LITNIN
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tatasal wrote:
Overclocker wrote:

grind away this edge. to permit the body tube to screw in further

I just checked the head and that part where the arrow is does not touch anything in the tube.

I think he means the outside of the tube, does it look like it stops the battery tube from being screwed into the head any further when tightened?

If so, I think what overclocker is proposing is that the edge the arrow points is the stop for the battery tube when the tube and head are screwed together as far as they can go. So if you ground this off a little, the battery tube can fit further inside the head. Then the shiny (un-anodized) ring on the end of the battery tube will make contact with the negative ring on the outside of the pcb without using any spacer.

Should my information be incorrect in the slightest please inform me as i am always learning as well and may not recollect everything properly. ALSO, ANYTHING I WRITE PLEASE TAKE WITH A THOUSAND GRAINS OF SALT AND YOUR OWN LIABILITY, AS YOU SHOULD WITH ALL INFORMATION.

tatasal
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GRAY LITNIN wrote:
tatasal wrote:
Overclocker wrote:

grind away this edge. to permit the body tube to screw in further

I just checked the head and that part where the arrow is does not touch anything in the tube.

I think what overclocker is proposing is that the edge the arrow points is the stop for the battery tube when the tube and head are screwed together as far as they can go. So if you ground this off a little, the battery tube can fit further inside the head. Then the shiny (un-anodized) ring on the end of the battery tube will make contact with the negative ring on the outside of the pcb without using any spacer.

Looking at my EA11’s head right now, the edge of the head (like in the arrow) does not contact anything, so grinding it away will only shorten it but won’t help the un-anodized tube inside the head, when screwed tightly, make contact with the negative ring in the pcb.

As I posted earlier, I tried putting a piece of soldering lead along the negative ring and screwed in the tube, the soldering lead serving as conductor between the tube and the negative ring and light worked again.

Photo below shows the head as ‘floating’ as a piece of paper can go in between it and the tube: (grinding will not help in this case)

Henk4U2
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Looks like you are planning a lot of work. In dutch homes we use solid core pvc wire for the wiring.
Clip off a piece and roll it in the shape of the tube. The more it presses against the tube the better.
The good thing is: if it is just a tiny bit to small you can “forge” it to perfect fit by flattening it with a hammer.

Edit: sorry, the previous post was not there when I wrote this.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

GRAY LITNIN
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tatasal wrote:
GRAY LITNIN wrote:
tatasal wrote:
Overclocker wrote:

grind away this edge. to permit the body tube to screw in further

I just checked the head and that part where the arrow is does not touch anything in the tube.

I think what overclocker is proposing is that the edge the arrow points is the stop for the battery tube when the tube and head are screwed together as far as they can go. So if you ground this off a little, the battery tube can fit further inside the head. Then the shiny (un-anodized) ring on the end of the battery tube will make contact with the negative ring on the outside of the pcb without using any spacer.

Looking at my EA11’s head right now, the edge of the head (like in the arrow) does not contact anything, so grinding it away will only shorten it but won’t help the un-anodized tube inside the head, when screwed tightly, make contact with the negative ring in the pcb.

As I posted earlier, I tried putting a piece of soldering lead along the negative ring and screwed in the tube, the soldering lead serving as conductor between the tube and the negative ring and light worked again.

Photo below shows the head as ‘floating’ as a piece of paper can go in between it and the tube: (grinding will not help in this case)

!{width:70%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/YAHVnng.jpg[/img]!

Gotcha, good call!!! Looks like the shim is the easiest solution.

Should my information be incorrect in the slightest please inform me as i am always learning as well and may not recollect everything properly. ALSO, ANYTHING I WRITE PLEASE TAKE WITH A THOUSAND GRAINS OF SALT AND YOUR OWN LIABILITY, AS YOU SHOULD WITH ALL INFORMATION.

tatasal
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This brass shim made the light work again…. thanks to Streamer on his trouble-shooting tips!

( That fall to the concrete floor perhaps head-first moved the pcb forward and distanced itself from the tube cutting off the ground connection.)

Streamer
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tatasal wrote:
What happens if my brass spacer ring touches that long, horizontal thing?

!{width:70%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/lRrNLkd.jpg?1[/img]!

that long horizontal thing is the reverse polarity protection to keep from conducting if battery inserted backwards.

i’m so glad you got it solved!!! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Beer

Streamer
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I think to fix pcb you would have to remove bezel, reflector, etc to re-align it properly.
But, if your shim works for you that is OK too.

Make sure tube o-ring seats properly now that you have increased total length by small margin.

Good work!

GRAY LITNIN
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Great work guys!! If you decide to take the bezel apart be forewarned its held on with red loctite (permanant unless heated). But i’ve seen (online only) people use a strap wrench on it without applying heat and it came off with a little effort but they might not have had as much on theirs.

You might have to start selling shims tatasal lol!

Should my information be incorrect in the slightest please inform me as i am always learning as well and may not recollect everything properly. ALSO, ANYTHING I WRITE PLEASE TAKE WITH A THOUSAND GRAINS OF SALT AND YOUR OWN LIABILITY, AS YOU SHOULD WITH ALL INFORMATION.

tatasal
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GRAY LITNIN wrote:
Great work guys!! If you decide to take the bezel apart be forewarned its held on with red loctite (permanant unless heated). But i’ve seen (online only) people use a strap wrench on it without applying heat and it came off with a little effort but they might not have had as much on theirs.

You might have to start selling shims tatasal lol!

Beer

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