As only one of the very few that can Mike.

DB Custom wrote:

I held it for 3 minutes in a 73º ambient setting.

Should probably elaborate, I held it by the head for 3 minutes, it was getting quite warm to the point of being hot indeed. Some cooler night air on it with flow would take it longer, of course.

This should translate out to around 1372 lumens each emitter at just over 3A each, so the heat is fairly manageable for this emitter. Considering slicing and dicing to tighten up the beam profile, have to play with it some more first…

I chose this light as my first full flashlight mod and it makes me feel better when Dale says the word tricky when describing it. Between the e-switch and the way the reflector comes together things are very tight. Needless to say there is plenty here for me to ‘learn’ in just this one single host.

I found it easiest to solder longer-than-necessary wires onto the mcpcb, attach the mcpcb to the reflector (loosely, so it doesn’t pull it down tilted due to the centering rings) then put the mcpcb/reflector assembly into the head (with thermal paste) and flip it over to put the central screw in, snugging the assembly into place (have to watch orientation, the mcpcb screw has it’s own cut out in the shelf) Once the driver has switch wires soldered on I cut the leads to length and solder them onto the driver. Everything gets tucked in and the retaining ring installed.

Like doing surgery, almost. lol

After some trial and error this is basically the same conclusion I came to as well. However, since I was not confident in my assembly I kept the longer than usual wires and spent a lot of time stuffing them in the body so I could test before the final “snip”. Needless to say I re-did my solder a few too many times (troubleshooting my switch) and I think I bridged something I shouldn’t have. I was testing with a protected battery and kept getting no light. I got curious and swapped to a VTC6 and needless to say I got something, magic smoke. Pretty much right after I tightened the battery down I could hear the battery was suddenly “loose” in the body. It had instantly vaporized the tail spring including the bypass.

Ordered a new driver to get a clean slate and surgery will resume this weekend.

Ouch!

My buddy wants to know why they call it magic smoke? He says it’s satanic. lol

I’m thinking of disassembling mine completely and baking the finish, need to differentiate this one from the other’s and that’d be a good way to do it. (Yes, I really really like how Kawiboy’s Convoy came out! lol )

ZozzV6 wrote:

I like the way ZozzV6 did his L2 with the gradient. I was able to do something ‘similar’ on my M1 without much experience. The burnt orange going towards the torch end just seems fitting.

My miniature knock off. If I did it again I think I could prevent the bezel (it’s super THIN) from becoming too brown with a little more caution.

Has anyone tried XP-L HI in this host?

How’s the beam?

will34 wrote:

Has anyone tried XP-L HI in this host?

I have XP-L HI in old version with tail clicky. It shoud be comparable.

Old C8F with XP-L HI V3 3C left, new C8F with XP-L right

That looks great! Host ordered

What is a good driver to use with the C8F host?

Should I order one from Sofirn or would Richard at Mountain have something suitable…… or somewhere else?

Thank’s in advance for any info.

I was wondering the same thing. But I’m looking for a driver that doesn’t have multiple modes (so I can use Lexel’s rear pressure switch mods with it on my hunting rig).

I think Sofirn sells their driver but if you’re looking for serious output, you might grab Richards FET+1. There are a couple e-switch firmware options including the new popular D4 firmware that ships on the Emisar D4 from Hank and written by Tom E and ToyKeeper.

Is it possible to bore the battery tube out to fit a 21700.

Just noticed this interesting triple.

thijsco19 wrote:

Is it possible to bore the battery tube out to fit a 21700.

Just noticed this interesting triple.

Not at all. The tube is only 22.69 mm diameter at the tail end and that is including the cut thread depth. 18.88 mm ID on mine.

Which brings me to ask a question… Has anyone else had a very difficult time in unscrewing the tail cap internal retaining ring/ I have 2 and have not been able to unscrew either tail cap retainer ring.

contactcr wrote:

ZozzV6 wrote:

I like the way ZozzV6 did his L2 with the gradient. I was able to do something ‘similar’ on my M1 without much experience. The burnt orange going towards the torch end just seems fitting.

My miniature knock off. If I did it again I think I could prevent the bezel (it’s super THIN) from becoming too brown with a little more caution.

I am having trouble understanding how you are getting it to gradually fade from the black to orange. BUT… is sure looks nice.

Any info appreciated…..

Jerommel wrote:

Use some translucent rings and super glue.

(should take a better picture…)

PS: Magnet is strong enough for this C8 with SS bezel.
Maybe not for the Sofirn triple.

Jerommel wrote:

ZozzV6 wrote:

Nice job. Do you have some pics from assembly how everything fits?

No, but i will make another one, i will take pics and post it.

MtnDon wrote:

Which brings me to ask a question… Has anyone else had a very difficult time in unscrewing the tail cap internal retaining ring/ I have 2 and have not been able to unscrew either tail cap retainer ring.

MRsDNF wrote:

MtnDon wrote:

Which brings me to ask a question… Has anyone else had a very difficult time in unscrewing the tail cap internal retaining ring/ I have 2 and have not been able to unscrew either tail cap retainer ring.

I dont have one but is it left hand thread?

Take what I said with a grain of salt. I do remember reading it last night…
but can’t find for sure who said it or where….. yet.

Confirmative. Reverse threaded. Mine was actually quite loose

MRsDNF wrote:

MtnDon wrote:

Which brings me to ask a question… Has anyone else had a very difficult time in unscrewing the tail cap internal retaining ring/ I have 2 and have not been able to unscrew either tail cap retainer ring.

I dont have one but is it left hand thread?

teacher wrote:

I do remember reading in Dale’s review that it is. (Or at least I ‘think” I do. Trying to find it now to double check myself)

Take what I said with a grain of salt. I do remember reading it last night…
but can’t find for sure who said it or where….. yet.

djozz wrote:

Confirmative. Reverse threaded. Mine was actually quite loose

gchart wrote:

I think Sofirn sells their driver but if you're looking for serious output, you might grab Richards FET+1. There are a couple e-switch firmware options including the new popular D4 firmware that ships on the Emisar D4 from Hank and written by Tom E and ToyKeeper.

Thanks GC! I took the bite last night... two C8F's and 8 XP-LT LEDs from Arrow are on the way. I used your link to the LEDs and man was that easy-- otherwise a needle in a hay stack I am looking forward to actually using some solder for the first time here. But, the LEDs will be here Tuesday while the C8Fs will take a month (or more?). So I'll have plenty of time to look at the shiny new LEDs

I looked at Richard's stuff some and I'm glad to see an option or two. Although I am still navigating my way re. understanding many driver features, the one thing still alluding me is output (and I'm starting to understand that specifications aside- you often have to try it to know). Being a newbie and wanting to get started with something in a working model-- I ordered the newer KDlight C8 (with the XHP50.2 in a 5K @ 2600 Lumen) because THAT driver got great marks on output and efficiency. I wish it didn't have the modes it has (since I'm using it for hunting as mentioned), but for the output I figured it would work well enough to get me started.

If Lexel (or someone) gets a HIGH output/efficient driver like the one in the KDLight, but in a single mode (on/off)-- I'll be happy with something like that for ONE of these C8F's. I did see Richard's $20 driver which (I think) would do this (and I LOVE the thermal management I read about on it), so might get one for my final hunting rig (which would end up using ONE of these two C8F's).

OK, dumb question (#357 )...  Does the driver for these C8F kits HAVE to have taps for the switch?  Or can it be hard wired in at some point?

gchart wrote:

I think Sofirn sells their driver but if you’re looking for serious output, you might grab Richards FET+1. There are a couple e-switch firmware options including the new popular D4 firmware that ships on the Emisar D4 from Hank and written by Tom E and ToyKeeper.

MtnDon wrote:

Which brings me to ask a question… Has anyone else had a very difficult time in unscrewing the tail cap internal retaining ring/ I have 2 and have not been able to unscrew either tail cap retainer ring.

My first complete C8F has a locked tail cap retaining ring too. Only light that has beat me on disassembly. I kinda gave up but I will give it a GO with Heat a few more times.
Haven’t played with the Hosts yet though…

Edit…

djozz wrote:

Confirmative. Reverse threaded. Mine was actually quite loose

OOPS…
Yeah I shoulda tried that. THANKS!

Well, success…
Got a quality tailcap spring bypass using 20 AWG on my C8F.

Some advice please. I am building using the Sofirn host and driver. I did the same thing contactcr did, leave the wires long and try to stuff them down in the open space below the driver. I can get the thing to turn on but only if I don’t have the tube screwed all the way in. That is, if I have the tail cap on tight and the tube body unscrewed it works. If I snug up the tube body it doesn’t turn on. I guess you will want to know what battery I am using but I am not at home right now so can’t tell you. It is flat top that was pulled from a computer battery. Everything works fine if I just leave the tube loose.

Is your battery tube on backwards?