Having now owned and used the Sofirn SP70, I can see how there are people who likes the 26650 more than the 21700. The Sofirn SP70 has definitely become my favorite light and I love the 2×26650 battery configuration. I just plain love Sofirn.
Hello everyone, where to buy a reflector “orange peel” for this flashlight? I really need this reflector! Thank you.
If you are desperate, you might try spraying the reflector in clear paint. When it dries it has a orange peel texture. This is an old school technique.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I have a spare working C8F 21700 “head” back from when Sofirn realised that these lights weren’t outputting the full lumen count (along the lines of a bad MOFSET or something) because Sofirn sent me a new, upgraded “head”.
If I were to buy just this host I assume it comes with the battery tube and switch so that I can put my “original” lower-lumen C8F 21700 head on the new battery tube from the host? Will it fit properly?
I received the C8F recently and consider ordering the host version to build a triple with more throw. Are there any beamshots of the triple XPL-HI available? They would be my go-to LEDs of choice, not so sure about SST20s.
Having now owned and used the Sofirn SP70, I can see how there are people who likes the 26650 more than the 21700. The Sofirn SP70 has definitely become my favorite light and I love the 2×26650 battery configuration. I just plain love Sofirn.
I have a spare working C8F 21700 “head” back from when Sofirn realised that these lights weren’t outputting the full lumen count (along the lines of a bad MOFSET or something) because Sofirn sent me a new, upgraded “head”.
If I were to buy just this host I assume it comes with the battery tube and switch so that I can put my “original” lower-lumen C8F 21700 head on the new battery tube from the host? Will it fit properly?
I hope that this makes sense.
As always, many thanks,
Moley
Sure you can use the battery tube of the host on your other C8F 21700 head. The design shouldn’t have changed since the start of production.
Im planning to order the host to build a custom C8F, but would like your ideas on LED selection. Requirements are in order of importance: Good consistent tint in the 4000-5000K range. More throw than XPL HD. Not a big loss of lumens. High CRI optional. I will use the stock driver.
Current choices in order of interest:
1, XPL-HI, supposedly makes some rings in the beam, but seeing the beamshots posted elsewhere, this doesnt seem like an issue. I like XPL HIs for good tint even on lower output levels.
2, SST-20 4000K, high CRI. Not sure about liking the tint, and how it looks at lower levels. What lumen output can be expected here compared to stock?
3, LHDs 5000K. I like them for high CRI, but lower outputs appear greenish. Already have them in the SP36BLF, so would like to try something else from above choices.
I received my host today. I am waiting on a driver from Lexel.
I was under the impression that the host came with the side E-switch. Mine did not.
Was it supposed to?
If not I know I can order a factory driver and remove the e-switch from that but damn I don’t want to wait that long if there is a faster option.
I received my host today. I am waiting on a driver from Lexel. I was under the impression that the host came with the side E-switch. Mine did not. Was it supposed to? If not I know I can order a factory driver and remove the e-switch from that but damn I don't want to wait that long if there is a faster option.
DAMN you had me going back to open up the host. whew mine has the mcpcb. I ordered from the sofirn store on aliexpress That listing is about $2 more but states it does include mcpcb I already have the led’s.
Went to mtn and they DO have a lighted version now. Only white in stock though. I ordered it I can take some blues or greens from led4power switches and I have some oranges on a generic aliexpress switch too. So now im about to try and reflow my first leds and wail on driver. Thanks for the tip on MTN.
Richard’s switches are a pretty common 1.5mm tall. The C8F uses a 3mm tall switch. Diameter is the same 12mm. You will probably need to extend the switch or add some kind of spacer, preferably clear plastic to not block the light. Or do like I did and use a clear switch from a Convoy L6 and carefully trim it down to fit. It sticks out a bit further, will work with the shorter switch and the light shines through better.
BTW, my early host did include the switch, but it’s a very complicated 4 led unit that makes no sense. You’d have to cut traces and mod it to work with an aftermarket driver. So better to use a MTN switch.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Whoa da – hhmm, there’s 2 critical dimensions: the switch PCB width and thickness. Are both ok for the one from Richard?
well damn I only measured the dia. I guess I’ll find out on the other.
I got the leds on, the wires on and the freshly pasted mcpcb back in the head.
ETA Thanks for the info Jason. If needed I can make plastic washers to raise the switch.
ETA2 spacer ring under the switch didnt work out, it barely let the retainer thread in.
so I extended the button with 2 tiny squares of credit cad glued together then glued to the top of the button.
Not thrilled with the mtn switch, it’s a bit on the mushy side. I was hoping for something more like the feel of the button on the Q8 or fw3.
Not thrilled with the mtn switch, it’s a bit on the mushy side. I was hoping for something more like the feel of the button on the Q8 or fw3.
You don’t want to add a spacer under the switch, the spacer needs to be in between the switch and the boot. Sometimes mushiness can happen if the spacer is too tall. Try one little square of credit card and see how it feels. If not better, try 3 and see how it feels.
Mushiness can also be in the switch itself due to excessive heat when soldering. Once, I used hot air next to a switch to change some resistors and the heat made the normal click into more of a squish. I put a new switch in carefully to limit heat and it was fine. The metal dome of a e-switch relies on the springyness of the metal and heat can effect it.
Just something to be aware of.
Same for clicky switches. Too much heat can damage them. When I solder their legs I do it fast then cool it with a damp paper towel.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Having now owned and used the Sofirn SP70, I can see how there are people who likes the 26650 more than the 21700. The Sofirn SP70 has definitely become my favorite light and I love the 2×26650 battery configuration. I just plain love Sofirn.
but its hardly EDC light, how do u carry it ?
I clutch it between my arm and side of my chest. The diameter is just right, not too thick and enough body for a firm hold.
Having now owned and used the Sofirn SP70, I can see how there are people who likes the 26650 more than the 21700. The Sofirn SP70 has definitely become my favorite light and I love the 2×26650 battery configuration. I just plain love Sofirn.
Hello everyone, where to buy a reflector “orange peel” for this flashlight? I really need this reflector! Thank you.
If you are desperate, you might try spraying the reflector in clear paint. When it dries it has a orange peel texture. This is an old school technique.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Hi everybody,
I hope that you are all enjoying the holidays.
I have a spare working C8F 21700 “head” back from when Sofirn realised that these lights weren’t outputting the full lumen count (along the lines of a bad MOFSET or something) because Sofirn sent me a new, upgraded “head”.
If I were to buy just this host I assume it comes with the battery tube and switch so that I can put my “original” lower-lumen C8F 21700 head on the new battery tube from the host? Will it fit properly?
I hope that this makes sense.
As always, many thanks,
Moley
I received the C8F recently and consider ordering the host version to build a triple with more throw. Are there any beamshots of the triple XPL-HI available? They would be my go-to LEDs of choice, not so sure about SST20s.
My reviews:
ROFIS R3 Multipurpose light , ROFIS MR50
There are beam shots in the album attached to the post:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1269169#comment-1269169
but its hardly EDC light, how do u carry it ?
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Sure you can use the battery tube of the host on your other C8F 21700 head. The design shouldn’t have changed since the start of production.
My Youtube channel: Alllightson Reviews
7th OL contest build: Matainvoy ML18S 8th OL contest build: DDH ML778SL
My reviews: Sofirn SP31 V2, Nightwatch NI40, Sofirn C8F 21700, Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05,Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3, Skilhunt M150
My video-reviews: Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05, Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3
Im planning to order the host to build a custom C8F, but would like your ideas on LED selection. Requirements are in order of importance: Good consistent tint in the 4000-5000K range. More throw than XPL HD. Not a big loss of lumens. High CRI optional. I will use the stock driver.
Current choices in order of interest:
1, XPL-HI, supposedly makes some rings in the beam, but seeing the beamshots posted elsewhere, this doesnt seem like an issue. I like XPL HIs for good tint even on lower output levels.
2, SST-20 4000K, high CRI. Not sure about liking the tint, and how it looks at lower levels. What lumen output can be expected here compared to stock?
3, LHDs 5000K. I like them for high CRI, but lower outputs appear greenish. Already have them in the SP36BLF, so would like to try something else from above choices.
My reviews:
ROFIS R3 Multipurpose light , ROFIS MR50
XPL-Hi is your best bet. Just pick the A and D bins for less green
Dome slicing LH351D and SST20 could improve throw and lesson the green tint at a loss of even more output (compared to XPL-Hi) :https://reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/al0q73/ned_blf_gt_mini_sst20_hi....
I received my host today. I am waiting on a driver from Lexel.
I was under the impression that the host came with the side E-switch. Mine did not.
Was it supposed to?
If not I know I can order a factory driver and remove the e-switch from that but damn I don’t want to wait that long if there is a faster option.
Dang, betcha Lexel either has them or can make one up. MtnE sells one but without LED's, not sure of size: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_83&product_id=430
Ok, I went a little over board with these lights. My inventory:
The bare 21700 host came with the switch, definitely. This was probably from early on, close to when they came out.
The pics and description in the OP definitely show and says the switch comes with the host.
The listing here: https://sofirnlight.com/diy-c8f-21700-version-host-p0063.html, says no MCPCB while mine definitely came with it -- this is bad, almost useless, poor information.
DAMN you had me going back to open up the host. whew mine has the mcpcb. I ordered from the sofirn store on aliexpress That listing is about $2 more but states it does include mcpcb I already have the led’s.
Went to mtn and they DO have a lighted version now. Only white in stock though. I ordered it I can take some blues or greens from led4power switches and I have some oranges on a generic aliexpress switch too. So now im about to try and reflow my first leds and wail on driver. Thanks for the tip on MTN.
Whoa da - hhmm, there's 2 critical dimensions: the switch PCB width and thickness. Are both ok for the one from Richard?
Richard’s switches are a pretty common 1.5mm tall. The C8F uses a 3mm tall switch. Diameter is the same 12mm. You will probably need to extend the switch or add some kind of spacer, preferably clear plastic to not block the light. Or do like I did and use a clear switch from a Convoy L6 and carefully trim it down to fit. It sticks out a bit further, will work with the shorter switch and the light shines through better.
BTW, my early host did include the switch, but it’s a very complicated 4 led unit that makes no sense. You’d have to cut traces and mod it to work with an aftermarket driver. So better to use a MTN switch.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
well damn I only measured the dia. I guess I’ll find out on the other.
I got the leds on, the wires on and the freshly pasted mcpcb back in the head.
ETA Thanks for the info Jason. If needed I can make plastic washers to raise the switch.
ETA2 spacer ring under the switch didnt work out, it barely let the retainer thread in.
so I extended the button with 2 tiny squares of credit cad glued together then glued to the top of the button.
Not thrilled with the mtn switch, it’s a bit on the mushy side. I was hoping for something more like the feel of the button on the Q8 or fw3.
You don’t want to add a spacer under the switch, the spacer needs to be in between the switch and the boot. Sometimes mushiness can happen if the spacer is too tall. Try one little square of credit card and see how it feels. If not better, try 3 and see how it feels.
Mushiness can also be in the switch itself due to excessive heat when soldering. Once, I used hot air next to a switch to change some resistors and the heat made the normal click into more of a squish. I put a new switch in carefully to limit heat and it was fine. The metal dome of a e-switch relies on the springyness of the metal and heat can effect it.
Just something to be aware of.
Same for clicky switches. Too much heat can damage them. When I solder their legs I do it fast then cool it with a damp paper towel.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I clutch it between my arm and side of my chest. The diameter is just right, not too thick and enough body for a firm hold.
Anyone like a C8F with one XHP50.2(3V), new reflector, remove tail switch, maybe add extended tubes?
It will be a light combine throw/higher lumens/longer runtime
My new Facebook account: https://www.facebook.com/barry.dong.9250
A C8F with three XHP50.2 3V would be nice as well. Extension tubes sound like a good idea.
When you are at it producing C8F extension tubes would you please consider producing BLF Q8 8×18650 extension tubes? That would be awesome.
My Youtube channel: Alllightson Reviews
7th OL contest build: Matainvoy ML18S 8th OL contest build: DDH ML778SL
My reviews: Sofirn SP31 V2, Nightwatch NI40, Sofirn C8F 21700, Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05,Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3, Skilhunt M150
My video-reviews: Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05, Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3
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