I hope you don’t fall for that. Once you close the dispute, AE might see the issue as resolved. Also, you have no assurance that the seller will honor his word.
I can confirm Convoy C8 battery tube and tail cap fit on the Sofirn C8F
In fact, i bought a Convoy C8 host just to swap the tube and tail cap, because i personally like the classic C8, where the tail cap design matches the head design, and i prefer the Convoy knurdled battery tube too.
So now i also have a Sofirn C8 host without any switch..
Same here, I recently bought a Convoy C8 and also decided to use it’s tube and tail for the same reasons. Also installed the Convoy SS bezel. Now I have a Sofvoy C8F!
The new C8F comes with XP-L2’s in a nice tint, makes 3000 lumens out of the box with the supplied cell. Hard to go wrong there.
Dale, this may have been brought up already, was this statement you posted way earlier in this thread a mistake? (post #81) I only see the C8A with XP-L2.
This was pointed out in another thread and I wanted to clear up any confusion, including my own.
The first one came with an aluminum mcpcb and XP-G3’s, the emitters couldn’t take a high discharge cell on that board. So I modified it.
The new C8F comes with XP-L2’s in a nice tint, makes 3000 lumens out of the box with the supplied cell. Hard to go wrong there.
Dale, this may have been brought up already, was this statement you posted way earlier in this thread a mistake? (post #81) I only see the C8A with XP-L2.
This was pointed out in another thread and I wanted to clear up any confusion, including my own.
Are you asking about the early version of the C8F?
It had no side switch. Had the aluminum mcpcb. Had xpg3’s. Had a rear tail switch.
They don’t sell that version anymore as they tended to burn up the emitters.
They redesigned it to what you see today. I wish they had changed the name to signify the difference, but they are both called the C8F. Hopefully everyone will forget about the first version.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
The first one came with an aluminum mcpcb and XP-G3’s, the emitters couldn’t take a high discharge cell on that board. So I modified it.
The new C8F comes with XP-L2’s in a nice tint, makes 3000 lumens out of the box with the supplied cell. Hard to go wrong there.
Dale, this may have been brought up already, was this statement you posted way earlier in this thread a mistake? (post #81) I only see the C8A with XP-L2.
This was pointed out in another thread and I wanted to clear up any confusion, including my own.
Are you asking about the early version of the C8F?
It had no side switch. Had the aluminum mcpcb. Had xpg3’s. Had a rear tail switch.
They don’t sell that version anymore as they tended to burn up the emitters.
They redesigned it to what you see today. I wish they had changed the name to signify the difference, but they are both called the C8F. Hopefully everyone will forget about the first version.
No I’m not asking about the C8F v1 (I have both v1 & v2)
My question for Dale was for his statement (I put in bold and underline) in his earlier post (post#81) where he stated that the “NEW” C8F comes with XP-L2’s. But as far as I know it didn’t, only regular XPL. Unless I missed something.
.
I’ll edit out the first part of his quote in my post to avoid this kind of confusion in what I’m asking about.
Just FYI I have the XPL2’s in mine as well (built from a host, not from Sofrin) and the few hundred lumens increase comes with a yellow corona trade off. You aren’t missing anything unless all you care about is MOREPOWER!!
Just FYI I have the XPL2’s in mine as well (built from a host, not from Sofrin) and the few hundred lumens increase comes with a yellow corona trade off. You aren’t missing anything unless all you care about is MOREPOWER!!
Did you swap to a better quality FET to get even more output? The one Sofrin uses is not so efficient.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Just FYI I have the XPL2’s in mine as well (built from a host, not from Sofrin) and the few hundred lumens increase comes with a yellow corona trade off. You aren’t missing anything unless all you care about is MOREPOWER!!
Did you swap to a better quality FET to get even more output? The one Sofrin uses is not so efficient.
I am still a novice when it comes to building lights (so far built a 85cri-nw with Convoy S2+ and a cyan with Convoy M1). I am in the middle of building a triple r9080sw45 219b (thanks clemence!) using this host. I plan to run it at a conservative 2A (I hate turbo modes and my country has warm climate), and the experience so far has been daunting.
I couldn’t use Sofirn’s fet driver as the current would be too high. So I thought I would go with a Nanjg 105C. Could not afford a Pomona soic clip, so hand soldered the attiny and flashed momentary star firmware with some modifications. Now the thick driver retaining ring of this host refuses to fit over (the 2×7135 heatsink tabs on the backside of the driver obstruct the ring). So I must manage this somehow using excess solder. And the spring of the 105C is too short, so I have to buy some new springs :(.
The light engine part is complete though, but that was not easy either. For that I first reflowed the 219s to the dtp board, then attached wires, then screwed on the reflector to the board (this must not be too tight), then applied arctic alumina to the pill, then pushed the reflector-dtp-wires assembly inside (making sure the wires come out properly through the holes to the other side), then tightened the bezel and finally screwed on the center screw (this must be tight for good thermal transfer) going through thr reflector.
I am still a novice when it comes to building lights (so far built a 85cri-nw with Convoy S2+ and a cyan with Convoy M1). I am in the middle of building a triple r9080sw45 219b (thanks clemence!) using this host. I plan to run it at a conservative 2A (I hate turbo modes and my country has warm climate), and the experience so far has been daunting.
I couldn’t use Sofirn’s fet driver as the current would be too high. So I thought I would go with a Nanjg 105C. Could not afford a Pomona soic clip, so hand soldered the attiny and flashed momentary star firmware with some modifications. Now the thick driver retaining ring of this host refuses to fit over (the 2×7135 heatsink tabs on the backside of the driver obstruct the ring). So I must manage this somehow using excess solder. And the spring of the 105C is too short, so I have to buy some new springs :(.
The light engine part is complete though, but that was not easy either. For that I first reflowed the 219s to the dtp board, then attached wires, then screwed on the reflector to the board (this must not be too tight), then applied arctic alumina to the pill, then pushed the reflector-dtp-wires assembly inside (making sure the wires come out properly through the holes to the other side), then tightened the bezel and finally screwed on the center screw (this must be tight for good thermal transfer) going through thr reflector.
What are you doing? You keep bringing this thread up to the top of the list with this post why?
I am still a novice when it comes to building lights (so far built a 85cri-nw with Convoy S2+ and a cyan with Convoy M1). Snip…
What are you doing? You keep bringing this thread up to the top of the list with this post why?
How would that be possible with only 2 posts? ??? I don’t understand.
That’s why I asked, “what are you doing”?
Unless there was a glitch in the system? Kept coming up as a new post? I read the same post 4-5 times and refreshed in between by hitting Recent Posts….
The host is a bit tricky to put together but i’m surprised you needed a longer spring. Is the driver sitting in the usual spot since you couldnt use the retaining ring or did you solder it further back? In other lights sometimes people just take some material off the inside of the retaining ring to make room if it’s close.
Don’t worry about it. I sometimes edit my posts many, many times when I find small errors.
+1
I edit the crap out of my posts… My BLF account has this weird bug, it automatically edits my posts with a lot of mistakes so I keep having to go in and correct them
Thank you. Whatever flashlights I have built would not be possible without this forum.
I have not soldered the 4 wires to the driver board yet, but just eyeballed that the factory spring would just touch my flat top cells (spring begins where the threads just end), but I will double check.
EDIT1: I was wrong! The shorter spring also works. And I have completed building this flashlight. While light output from the 219B triple is average at 2.4A, it actually renders things better than sunlight in red region (tested with wooden doors, skin, tongue, red multimeter leads, red buckets). Totally puts my 85cri Cree T5-5D1 to shame, which despite having a rosy tint looks orangey. Thank you JohnnyC for writing the awesome firmware (star momentary 1.6) that I used in this light.
EDIT2: If a beginner wants to repurpose Nanjg driver like me, please do not use solid core wires as they are not flexible, you may have a hard time pushing the driver down.
Don’t worry about it. I sometimes edit my posts many, many times when I find small errors.
+1
I edit the crap out of my posts… My BLF account has this weird bug, it automatically edits my posts with a lot of mistakes so I keep having to go in and correct them
I edit the crap out of my posts… My BLF account has this weird bug, it automatically edits my posts with a lot of mistakes so I keep having to go in and correct them
I never had to do that back when I had an error-correcting modem.
I tested different clips including Pomona and 3M and – guess what – the cheap ones from ebay similar to this worked best: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Professional-SOIC8-SOP8-Flash-Chip-IC-Test-Clip...BIOS-Programmer-s/232633530767?hash=item362a09f98f:g:GQoAAOSw3fZaISf1
(Actually I haven’t ordered this specific one, it’s just the first I found in this moment).
Sorry, my mistake on the XP-L2 statement… the emitters I got in mine were XP-L V6 2C/2D. Nice tint, nice output. Yes, the 3000 lumens out of the box was correct.
Another good news guys! I tried to convince Sofirn to sell switch tailcaps separately. So if you want you can lockout the C8F with it. I hope they will have it in the store soon.
Sorry, my mistake on the XP-L2 statement... the emitters I got in mine were XP-L V6 2C/2D. Nice tint, nice output. Yes, the 3000 lumens out of the box was correct.
Dale,
Confused, sorry-- I guess you have a FEW of these C8Fs But your batch of XP-L2s (that you mention earlier) from Arrow... I ordered the same (I think), anyway wondering if I'm remembering right where you DO have BOTH an XPL Hi and XL-L2 FC8, right? If so was wondering if you had an opinion to share with regard to the differences between the two?
Also, didn't you also try the SST-40? (or what that another light- you write about so many!)
Sorry, my mistake on the XP-L2 statement… the emitters I got in mine were XP-L V6 2C/2D. Nice tint, nice output. Yes, the 3000 lumens out of the box was correct.
Dale,
Confused, sorry— I guess you have a FEW of these C8Fs But your batch of XP-L2s (that you mention earlier) from Arrow… I ordered the same (I think), anyway wondering if I’m remembering right where you DO have BOTH an XPL Hi and XL-L2 FC8, right? If so was wondering if you had an opinion to share with regard to the differences between the two?
Also, didn’t you also try the SST-40? (or what that another light- you write about so many!)
Thanks, Russ
I thought he tried the xpl2 in a C8F as well, but I guess not.
He put the SST 40 in a Supfire M6 as well as the blf Q8.
I don’t think he tried the xpl high but he did mention that the reflectors need to be designed for that particular emitter.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I hope you don’t fall for that. Once you close the dispute, AE might see the issue as resolved. Also, you have no assurance that the seller will honor his word.
This was pointed out in another thread and I wanted to clear up any confusion, including my own.
Are you asking about the early version of the C8F?
It had no side switch. Had the aluminum mcpcb. Had xpg3’s. Had a rear tail switch.
They don’t sell that version anymore as they tended to burn up the emitters.
They redesigned it to what you see today. I wish they had changed the name to signify the difference, but they are both called the C8F. Hopefully everyone will forget about the first version.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
My question for Dale was for his statement (I put in bold and underline) in his earlier post (post#81) where he stated that the “NEW” C8F comes with XP-L2’s. But as far as I know it didn’t, only regular XPL. Unless I missed something.
.
I’ll edit out the first part of his quote in my post to avoid this kind of confusion in what I’m asking about.
Oh. Okay.
Yeah, Dale made a mistake in saying that. It comes with xpl’s.
I’m sure he’ll be a long soon to give more details.
See his review over here.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57806
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Just FYI I have the XPL2’s in mine as well (built from a host, not from Sofrin) and the few hundred lumens increase comes with a yellow corona trade off. You aren’t missing anything unless all you care about is MORE POWER!!
Did you swap to a better quality FET to get even more output? The one Sofrin uses is not so efficient.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
It’s a MTN fet+1
Doh.
The host does not come with driver. I forgot.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I am still a novice when it comes to building lights (so far built a 85cri-nw with Convoy S2+ and a cyan with Convoy M1). I am in the middle of building a triple r9080sw45 219b (thanks clemence!) using this host. I plan to run it at a conservative 2A (I hate turbo modes and my country has warm climate), and the experience so far has been daunting.
I couldn’t use Sofirn’s fet driver as the current would be too high. So I thought I would go with a Nanjg 105C. Could not afford a Pomona soic clip, so hand soldered the attiny and flashed momentary star firmware with some modifications. Now the thick driver retaining ring of this host refuses to fit over (the 2×7135 heatsink tabs on the backside of the driver obstruct the ring). So I must manage this somehow using excess solder. And the spring of the 105C is too short, so I have to buy some new springs :(.
The light engine part is complete though, but that was not easy either. For that I first reflowed the 219s to the dtp board, then attached wires, then screwed on the reflector to the board (this must not be too tight), then applied arctic alumina to the pill, then pushed the reflector-dtp-wires assembly inside (making sure the wires come out properly through the holes to the other side), then tightened the bezel and finally screwed on the center screw (this must be tight for good thermal transfer) going through thr reflector.
What are you doing? You keep bringing this thread up to the top of the list with this post why?
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
How would that be possible with only 2 posts? ??? I don’t understand.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
That’s why I asked, “what are you doing”?
Unless there was a glitch in the system? Kept coming up as a new post? I read the same post 4-5 times and refreshed in between by hitting Recent Posts….
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
With only one post in this thread...
Maybe t18d16 keeps on editing their post?
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread
I did not know it works like this. I am not a native English speaker, so I edited incorrect grammar multiple times, sorry guys.
And I did hit the edit button each time, not the reply button, like this time.
Don't worry about it.
I sometimes edit my posts many, many times when I find small errors.
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread
The host is a bit tricky to put together but i’m surprised you needed a longer spring. Is the driver sitting in the usual spot since you couldnt use the retaining ring or did you solder it further back? In other lights sometimes people just take some material off the inside of the retaining ring to make room if it’s close.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
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+1
I edit the crap out of my posts… My BLF account has this weird bug, it automatically edits my posts with a lot of mistakes so I keep having to go in and correct them
https://www.flickr.com/photos/akrylamid/
Thank you. Whatever flashlights I have built would not be possible without this forum.
I have not soldered the 4 wires to the driver board yet, but just eyeballed that the factory spring would just touch my flat top cells (spring begins where the threads just end), but I will double check.
EDIT1: I was wrong! The shorter spring also works. And I have completed building this flashlight. While light output from the 219B triple is average at 2.4A, it actually renders things better than sunlight in red region (tested with wooden doors, skin, tongue, red multimeter leads, red buckets). Totally puts my 85cri Cree T5-5D1 to shame, which despite having a rosy tint looks orangey. Thank you JohnnyC for writing the awesome firmware (star momentary 1.6) that I used in this light.
EDIT2: If a beginner wants to repurpose Nanjg driver like me, please do not use solid core wires as they are not flexible, you may have a hard time pushing the driver down.
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I never had to do that back when I had an error-correcting modem.
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(Actually I haven’t ordered this specific one, it’s just the first I found in this moment).
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Did someone built one with 3 dedomed xp-g2 S4? Wondering how it throws.
Sorry, my mistake on the XP-L2 statement… the emitters I got in mine were XP-L V6 2C/2D. Nice tint, nice output. Yes, the 3000 lumens out of the box was correct.
Another good news guys! I tried to convince Sofirn to sell switch tailcaps separately. So if you want you can lockout the C8F with it. I hope they will have it in the store soon.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
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Confused, sorry-- I guess you have a FEW of these C8Fs
But your batch of XP-L2s (that you mention earlier) from Arrow... I ordered the same (I think), anyway wondering if I'm remembering right where you DO have BOTH an XPL Hi and XL-L2 FC8, right? If so was wondering if you had an opinion to share with regard to the differences between the two?
Also, didn't you also try the SST-40? (or what that another light- you write about so many!)
Thanks, Russ
ZappaMan
I thought he tried the xpl2 in a C8F as well, but I guess not.
He put the SST 40 in a Supfire M6 as well as the blf Q8.
I don’t think he tried the xpl high but he did mention that the reflectors need to be designed for that particular emitter.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
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