The new Jaxman E3 flashlight comes in the new year

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Madeeon
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Sorry for updating this but, how many versions of Jaxman E3 there are?

Seems the first version is from 2016 and “this version” is from 2018. But any changes on the name, V1 or V2 or something like that. I little bit confusing to find.

MascaratumB
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Madeeon wrote:
Sorry for updating this but, how many versions of Jaxman E3 there are?

Seems the first version is from 2016 and “this version” is from 2018. But any changes on the name, V1 or V2 or something like that. I little bit confusing to find.


The first/old versions of the E3 are not on sale (at least on Jaxman AliExpress store). You can find “copies”, but not the original is not sold anymore.
The new version, is: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32610831028.html

There are no changes in the name, but there are changes in the structure of the falshlight as you can see on the post#1 of this thread Wink

lg.tech
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Has anyone replaced the LED on the E3 with an XPL HI? I have been wondering about this, just replacing the the led but keeping the same driver. Would I gain any more output and runtime compared to the nichia? Another thing, does the XPL HI emitter fit in the stock reflector opening?

MascaratumB
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lg.tech wrote:
Has anyone replaced the LED on the E3 with an XPL HI? I have been wondering about this, just replacing the the led but keeping the same driver. Would I gain any more output and runtime compared to the nichia? Another thing, does the XPL HI emitter fit in the stock reflector opening?

Hi lg.tech! Welcome to BLF Party
I just wanted to let you know that XP-L HI emitters will fit well on this flashlight’s reflector! Any 3535 footprint emitter will fit well (XP-G2, XP-G3, XP-L HI, XP-L HD, some Nichias, Luxeon V2, and others).

I modified my light and I don’t have the original driver anymore, so I can’t do a runtime test. But, I guess runtimes on this flashlight will probably depend more on the type/quality of batteries you will use and on the levels you will use than the LED you’ll have on it.

Enjoy your flashlight!

lg.tech
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Thank you for the welcome and for your response!
Do you know what size PCB I can fit in it? I’m thinking of getting the noctigon 16mm.
I love this light, I got the nichia 4000k version, but for outside usage it’s fairly weak with this tint. I have an old Nitecore D11 which has a similar output but with a cool white emitter and it’s much more usable, so I thought about putting an XPL HI 5000k on the jaxman E3.
As for batteries I have Standard eneloops, Sony 2400mAh Ni-MH and Efest 14500. I normally just use it with the Sony batteries, runtimes aren’t great with any of them, my old Nitecore D11 has a better runtime.

MascaratumB
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lg.tech wrote:
Thank you for the welcome and for your response! Do you know what size PCB I can fit in it? I’m thinking of getting the noctigon 16mm. I love this light, I got the nichia 4000k version, but for outside usage it’s fairly weak with this tint. I have an old Nitecore D11 which has a similar output but with a cool white emitter and it’s much more usable, so I thought about putting an XPL HI 5000k on the jaxman E3. As for batteries I have Standard eneloops, Sony 2400mAh Ni-MH and Efest 14500. I normally just use it with the Sony batteries, runtimes aren’t great with any of them, my old Nitecore D11 has a better runtime.

You’re welcome Wink

You can fit a 16mm diameter MCPCB. However, please note that if the Noctigon is thicker than the original PCB, it may leave a small gap between the bezel and the edge of the head where it screws in. You can add an extra o-ring there to maintain it more or less “sealed”.

About batteries, in case you want to use it with 14500, you can take a look at these Vapcell batteries: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64318
They have higher capacity than the Efests, and as this is not a high drain flashlight/driver, they can give you some more output and still last for a while.
However, note that Jaxman adivises to use more the Ni-MH batteries than the 14500 Li-Ion.

I guess the 5000K XP-L HI is a great choice, it is neutral white colour and will be good for indoor and outdoor. Also, it will not produce tint shifts under the Jaxman reflector. Thumbs Up

lg.tech
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The Noctigon MCPCB is 1.6mm thick. https://intl-outdoor.com/led/xp-l-hi/noctigon-xp16-cree-xp-l-high-intens...

Looks like I’m gonna have to wait a little while before I can try this. The shipping estimate for me is over 3 months due to the pandemic.

MascaratumB
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lg.tech wrote:
The Noctigon MCPCB is 1.6mm thick. https://intl-outdoor.com/led/xp-l-hi/noctigon-xp16-cree-xp-l-high-intens...

Looks like I’m gonna have to wait a little while before I can try this. The shipping estimate for me is over 3 months due to the pandemic.


Hum, you can try other sources: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32574557369.html
It is not a Noctigon, but it is a DTP MCPCB (Direct Thermal Path). It is sold by Convoy Store, run by Simon Mao.
You can ask him if he is currently shipping to your place.

Or you can check other sources, such as Kaidomain.com or their AliExpress store (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32808827214.html)
In any case, it is better to check with sellers before ordering.

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lg.tech
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That’s funny, I just talked to Simon yesterday about ordering a S2+ but unfortunately I’ll have to wait.

hodor
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Hi Jaxman, liking the look of your new X2. Any chance of making the host available on your AE store? I would love an E3 host as well!

lg.tech
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Has anyone measured the lumen output on the E3?
One other thing, I have been thinking about how the E3 would perform with a smooth reflector, does anyone know where I could find a smooth reflector for the E3?

I have a Nitecore MT2C and on the lowest level (measured around 38 lumens by reviewer selfbuilt) it’s noticeably brighter than my E3 on the mid level looking at about 1 meter distance.

Blahblahblahhuh
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MascaratumB wrote:
I modified my light and I don’t have the original driver anymore, so I can’t do a runtime test.

I’m thinking of getting a Jaxman E3 to mod. What size driver will fit? And what did you swap it to?

I’d like to put something with better UI in there as well as swap the LED.

buck91
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Blahblahblahhuh wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
I modified my light and I don’t have the original driver anymore, so I can’t do a runtime test.

I’m thinking of getting a Jaxman E3 to mod. What size driver will fit? And what did you swap it to?

I’d like to put something with better UI in there as well as swap the LED.

I swapped the 5700k Nichia for a 4000k SST20 in one of mine. I cracked the lens tightening the bezel and between the MCPCB thickness change and the new lens being thicker the bezel no longer threads down flush. Not a functional issue but disappointing anyhow. Still and excellent 1AA light for general use. Personally I like the LMH for a 1AA light. What UI are you looking for? Are you still with AA or do you want to go li-ion 14500?

Blahblahblahhuh
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Thanks for the info. You cracked the lens because the new MCPCB was thicker, I take it? How thin was the one you put in?

I assumed from your quote that you also swapped the driver. Is that correct?

I’d be fine using 14500 if it gave me access to a better driver/UI. I assume that’s the case because AA lights need a boost driver, right? And that will limit the driver and UI choices?

I’d like an AA/14500 light, as small as possible, with low moonlight modes and a reasonably high turbo/high, and a more customizable UI (Bistro, Crescendo, or even guppydrv). I’ve been searching for hosts to do a driver swap like this. Does what I’m looking for exist?

I’ve also investigated filing down a 15mm Mountain Electronics board to fit into a Lumintop Tool AA and going to 14500. Not sure I have the tools to file it down, but I’d try!

Chatika vas Paus
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Blahblahblahhuh wrote:
I’m thinking of getting a Jaxman E3 to mod. What size driver will fit? And what did you swap it to?

17mm driver. Mcpcb must be 1mm thick.

Blahblahblahhuh
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Rad. That gives me a lot of options with the driver. Thank you!

Could I put a DrJones H17Fx in it and just use 14500? Or a MTN-17DDm?

I’d probably be using a 219b so I’d end up limiting the FET usage but want a better UI.

Chatika vas Paus
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Yes, but I recommend using short spring on the driver.

Blahblahblahhuh
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Or a button instead of a spring, perhaps?

Will I end up burning out a 219b on turbo with a FET driver? Also, could I sneak in a 1.5mm copper MCPCB? Or am I stuck with aluminum at 1mm? Perhaps that extra half a millimeter is why buck91 ended up with a cracked bezel…?

Thanks for all your help.

Chatika vas Paus
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Button can work if u use button top battery and hard/long spring on the tail.
Use copper mcpcb with dtp and reduce thickness to 1mm with sandpaper.
When using spandard mcpcb (1.5-1.6mm) you will just have a gap between the bezel and the body.
If you use a low current cell, the 219b might survive the turbo.

buck91
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Blahblahblahhuh wrote:
Thanks for the info. You cracked the lens because the new MCPCB was thicker, I take it? How thin was the one you put in?

I assumed from your quote that you also swapped the driver. Is that correct?

I’d be fine using 14500 if it gave me access to a better driver/UI. I assume that’s the case because AA lights need a boost driver, right? And that will limit the driver and UI choices?

I’d like an AA/14500 light, as small as possible, with low moonlight modes and a reasonably high turbo/high, and a more customizable UI (Bistro, Crescendo, or even guppydrv). I’ve been searching for hosts to do a driver swap like this. Does what I’m looking for exist?

I’ve also investigated filing down a 15mm Mountain Electronics board to fit into a Lumintop Tool AA and going to 14500. Not sure I have the tools to file it down, but I’d try!

I did not swap the driver, I like the LMH of the stock. Plus its AA/14500 capable so I was happy. Yes, the new LED was on a thicker MCPCB and I didn’t realize I was tightening the bezel too hard cracking the lens. Definitely my fault and now the new lens is thicker too resulting in a noticeable gap (though using some thread sealer on the bezel threads makes it a aesthetics only issue.)

Blahblahblahhuh
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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
Button can work if u use button top battery and hard/long spring on the tail. Use copper mcpcb with dtp and reduce thickness to 1mm with sandpaper. When using spandard mcpcb (1.5-1.6mm) you will just have a gap between the bezel and the body. If you use a low current cell, the 219b might survive the turbo.

Ok, cool. If I end up going the spring route, using a small spring on the driver would work, too?

I’m a bit confused on how a thicker MCPCB would leave a gap. Wouldn’t it be an issue of less space, not more? I’m clearly not conceptualizing this properly. Thanks for taking the time to explain.

Blahblahblahhuh
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buck91 wrote:
I did not swap the driver, I like the LMH of the stock. Plus its AA/14500 capable so I was happy. Yes, the new LED was on a thicker MCPCB and I didn’t realize I was tightening the bezel too hard cracking the lens. Definitely my fault and now the new lens is thicker too resulting in a noticeable gap (though using some thread sealer on the bezel threads makes it a aesthetics only issue.)

Gotcha. Thanks for the info.

Chatika vas Paus
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Jaxman uses a standard 16mm mcpcb with a thickness of 1mm in thier flashlights and they designed the flashlight for this thickness. They don’t sell it as a host, that’s why they probably did it. I received 1mm mcpcb with the set when ordering the host version.
I think the Convoy T2 is a better choice for us (modders). Think about it too.

Blahblahblahhuh
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Ahh, OK. I’ll check out the T2, as well.

It looks like a T2 takes a 17mm driver as well? If I put in one of those two drivers I suggested into a T2, I’d be going to all 14500, and it would work fine, correct? And the T2 takes a 16mm DTP MCPCB fine?

Re:219b in a T2 with a FET driver (as I’m planning), so you think my Keeppower 14500 1000mAh puts out just too much at 4A continuous to not fry the emitter? Perhaps I should get a Vapcell 3A?

MascaratumB
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Nop, T2 uses smaller MCPCB.
There is an edge in the top of the shelf, so it uses 14-15mm MCPCB.
Of course you can file the 16mm board to make it smaller.
And…it is also designed for 1mm thick boards.

Edit: I gave some information here:http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1471476#comment-1471476

Chatika vas Paus
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Blahblahblahhuh wrote:
Re:219b in a T2 with a FET driver (as I’m planning), so you think my Keeppower 14500 1000mAh puts out just too much at 4A continuous to not fry the emitter? Perhaps I should get a Vapcell 3A?

You can try 3A cell. Not perfect solution for this led, but surely much better.

MascaratumB wrote:
Nop, T2 uses smaller MCPCB. There is an edge in the top of the shelf, so it uses 14-15mm MCPCB. Of course you can file the 16mm board to make it smaller. And…it is also designed for 1mm thick boards.

I didn’t know about it. Thanks for the info.

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MascaratumB wrote:
Nop, T2 uses smaller MCPCB. There is an edge in the top of the shelf, so it uses 14-15mm MCPCB. Of course you can file the 16mm board to make it smaller. And…it is also designed for 1mm thick boards.

Ok, rad. Thanks for the info. So I’d still be sanding down an MCPCB. Does my build make more sense for a T2 or E3? Or does it not matter? 17mm DrJones FET driver (or Mtn17-DDm), whatever DTP MCPCB I can make fit, 219b emitter, running off of 14500s.

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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
You can try 3A cell. Not perfect solution for this led, but surely much better.

Is there a lower discharge 14500 available? Or perhaps I should just commit to not using turbo or disengaging it on the UI…

Chatika vas Paus
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If possible, turn off the turbo in UI.
Or maybe try this driver with 3 modes.

Blahblahblahhuh
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Cool. I’d probably just avoid turbo on the UI, since I’d be getting a better driver specifically for the UI.

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