Maglite switch, Lubriplate DS ES Electrical Switch Lubricant

[Zener]

Has anyone tried this? I watched a youtube vid of a fellow cleaning and re-assembling a maglite switch, and he uses the above mentioned white lubricant on the contacts and plastic parts as well. He used what looked like a lot to me. I looked it up quickly, but couldn’t really find what it consists of.

So I cleaned my switch parts with Deoxit red can, and was going to use Deox Gold for the contacts, and am wondering if I should use something on the plastic teeth and moving parts. I’ve researched a zillion different lube threads, and most are about o-rings, end caps, etc. … or other threads where no one agrees, and everything contradicts, and the more I read about dielectric and lithium greases, the more confused I get.

Regarding the Maglite switch clean & lube , I have white Lithium grease, Sil Glyde, Superlube dielectric grease, Masterplumber faucet grease, and Yamalube waterproof red grease around the house here already. Any ideas on which would be best for this application? It had gotten some acid leakage on it, but it came clean, and I’m really just trying to see if it’s savable, for future reference.

I may look into a tube of the Lubriplate eventually, just to try.

Thanks in advance,
Zen

[Agro]

PFlexPRO optionally lubes their switches:

@https://www.pflexpro.com/Forward-Clicky-vs-Reverse-Clicky-s/1844.htm

Lower resistance, lower actuation pressure, higher contact pressure, smoother action, quieter and longer lasting
I’ve taken my very reliable forward clicky switch to the next level. Before soldering the switch to the switch board, it is completely disassembled and all of the internal parts are cleaned. Next, every internal moving part is lubricated with Krytox. This lubrication will make the switch last much longer and it will also operate much more quietly. The ‘lube job’ also makes the switch much easier to actuate. I also increase the length of the main spring -this creates extra pressure on the contacts for lower electrical resistance. This extra spring force offsets some of the reduced actuation pressure, but the net effect is a switch with less actuation pressure and greater contact pressure. To further reduce resistance, I clean the contacts and treat them with a very light coat of Copper Contact grease. Not only does the Copper Contact grease initially lower resistance, but it protects the contacts for any future oxidation.

[Zener]

“Throw”, it is a 3D, but yes, I’m cleaning it because of leakage. I do have modern lights, but collect a few old Mags just as a hobby. This one was lighting up, but the switch would flicker. The batteries had leaked, so I performed surgery just for fun.

“Agro” Thanks for the article. That’s pretty much what I’m doing with this switch. I have it into about 20 pieces. I’ve never heard of Krytox, but it looks like good stuff. I’m gonna try to make it work with one of the ones I have … maybe the dielectric or the lithium. Going to read up a little more and see what turns up here.

Zen

[Zener]

Yea there’s a lot you can do with that. I recently picked up an older 6C and 6D, after never having one that large. Gotta love’em just for the physical traits, IMO. It seems to me that the value of the aluminum & individual parts would be worth 2 or 3 times what I’m paying for the lights.

Zen