MT03 Driver swap. Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM ramping firmware

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BeardedRaleigh
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MT03 Driver swap. Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM ramping firmware

Started with a MT03 that had a bad driver from the factory.

Ordered a TA driver from Lexel and the build began.

started by removing the stock driver.

Next I installed the new driver. (Lexel says ground for the switch goes on the left, i changed it during troubleshooting, I assume it shouldn’t make a difference since the switch is just completing a circuit, but what do I know lol)

Now I have everything but the switch LEDs soldered on (waiting to hear from Lexel where those wires go).

PROBLEMS IM HAVING-

The light is randomly turning itself on, when it does it will ramp to turbo, stay for around ten seconds and then…….blink blink pause blink.

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JasonWW
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Remind me, is the MT03 running 6 volt or 12 volt?

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BeardedRaleigh
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JasonWW wrote:
Remind me, is the MT03 running 6 volt or 12 volt?

2S2P 6 volt.

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I think that driver will feed 4.2v into the switch led. So with only one led you can run 2500 ohm or 5000 ohm resistor. If you run 2 leds in parallel then a 5k to 15k ohm resistor should work.

If both leds won’t light at same time, they might need more power. Check to see if there is a resistor on the switch pcb.

Anyway, I think you got it mostly figured out. Maybe Lexel can shed some light on the delayed switch problem you have. He can be hard to understand at times. He’s like a mad scientist with English as a 2nd language. Lol

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Lexel
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If the light ramps up random and starts blinking after 8 seconds this indicates that inside the light the right switch pad receives a ground signal

From what I see on the MT03 drivers pad markings and you switching the wire polarity on the TA driver it looks like the LEDs may share common anode

The TA driver is build for common cathode

If those common anode wires are loose and touch ground inside the light they can cause a false switch signal, so unsolder the wires from switch PCB if you are not going to use them

To change common anode to common cathode you need to reverse the LEDs on the solder pad

It would help a lot to solve this if you could do macros from both sides of the switch board

BeardedRaleigh
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pictures of switch-

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Lexel
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those pictures are not good enough I need macros where I can see the traces and the small green markings on the LEDs

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I think that resistor is 1000 ohm. Smaller than I would expect.

The black surface of the switch makes it hard to see the circuits underneath. If you have a continuity tester I would draw out the switch on paper and then test all the wires to see how they are connected.

Did you say the leds are red and green? Does that correspond to the R and G next to them? (Sometimes they do and sometimes they dont, you can’t just assume)

Also, did you tape up the ends of the led wires when you put the driver in? You can’t have those bare wire ends touching anything.

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JasonWW
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Lexel wrote:
those pictures are not good enough I need macros where I can see the traces and the small green markings on the LEDs

You can see the arrows on the pcb showing led orientation.

Bearded, are the leds both facing the same direction?

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BeardedRaleigh
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JasonWW wrote:
I think that resistor is 1000 ohm. Smaller than I would expect.

The black surface of the switch makes it hard to see the circuits underneath. If you have a continuity tester I would draw out the switch on paper and then test all the wires to see how they are connected.

Did you say the leds are red and green? Does that correspond to the R and G next to them? (Sometimes they do and sometimes they dont, you can’t just assume)

Also, did you tape up the ends of the led wires when you put the driver in? You can’t have those bare wire ends touching anything.

LEDs are red and blue, working on testing continuity. yes the wires have heat shrink on them so they do not short on anything.

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JasonWW wrote:
Lexel wrote:
those pictures are not good enough I need macros where I can see the traces and the small green markings on the LEDs

You can see the arrows on the pcb showing led orientation.

Bearded, are the leds both facing the same direction?

I’m not really sure how to tell.

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Okay, so the R led is connected to the blue wire and the G led is connected to the yellow wire.

Are the other ends of the leds connected to the red or black wire?

Once you know that, then you can take a battery (maybe a discharged one at 3v) and a resistor (1,000 to 20,000) and run some power through the circuits. Then you know if it’s a positive or negative common wire.

Getting back to the switch problem. Does a continuity circuit show the switch is working like it should? Does it want to ramp up with thd switch cover off? It’s just really odd it works fine, ten minutes later acts like the switch is shorted internally.

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BeardedRaleigh wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Lexel wrote:
those pictures are not good enough I need macros where I can see the traces and the small green markings on the LEDs

You can see the arrows on the pcb showing led orientation.

Bearded, are the leds both facing the same direction?

I’m not really sure how to tell.


The leds sometimes have a unique shape. Some have green dots. Do yours have that notch cut out on both ends, or have that dot under the lens on both sides?

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BeardedRaleigh
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JasonWW wrote:
Okay, so the R led is connected to the blue wire and the G led is connected to the yellow wire.

Are the other ends of the leds connected to the red or black wire?

Once you know that, then you can take a battery (maybe a discharged one at 3v) and a resistor (1,000 to 20,000) and run some power through the circuits. Then you know if it’s a positive or negative common wire.

Getting back to the switch problem. Does a continuity circuit show the switch is working like it should? Does it want to ramp up with thd switch cover off? It’s just really odd it works fine, ten minutes later acts like the switch is shorted internally.

I did a test last night and when clicking the button my tester would beep, let go of button it stops beeping. I thought I was all good to go besides eventually dealing with the switch leds, then the weird thing happened where it just turned on by itself.

I think I have another switch (no leds) and was going to put it in the light and see how that acted, if it works fine then ill know I need to rework the original switch leds, ill get started on switch testing soon.

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KawiBoy1428
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Just use the 2 switch wires off the driver and touch them together, see if the driver is not the problem first.

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Just use the 2 switch wires off the driver and touch them together, see if the driver is not the problem first.

I did that, I want to use an actual switch so I can reassemble it and check then.

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Oh so the driver worked fine?

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Oh so the driver worked fine?

He has a strange problem. It works fine at first, then…

Quote:
PROBLEMS IM HAVING-

The light is randomly turning itself on, when it does it will ramp to turbo, stay for around ten seconds and then…….blink blink pause blink.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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BeardedRaleigh
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some info on switch, switch works fine not soldered to anything (put tester on red and black, push button tester beeps)

pics. kind of ironic blue wire lights up red led lol.

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BeardedRaleigh
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Also I wired up my other switch and it is seeming to work.

EDIT!!!!

I let the light run at a lowish brightness for about 3 minuts and again it ramped up and went to configure! WHY ME?!

this is with a completely different switch and I am POSITIVE nothing is shorted out.

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Now when I screw battery tube in it just ramps right up.

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https://youtu.be/EoXYndvrsTI

At 18 seconds I had NOT clicked the button.

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BeardedRaleigh
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Light seems to function perfectly with switch and driver not mounted. could there be a short somewhere when I tighten the driver retaining ring? also if I put either of the led power wires to the right side of the diode above the switch wires they will come on, they stay on at all times.

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JasonWW
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What if you remove all switch wires from the driver.

Then just short the two switch pads to turn it on. Will it still ramp up on its own?

Do you see any excess in solder on the switch pads or anywhere else on the driver that might be creating a connection where there should not be?

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BeardedRaleigh
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JasonWW wrote:
What if you remove all switch wires from the driver.

Then just short the two switch pads to turn it on. Will it still ramp up on its own?

Do you see any excess in solder on the switch pads or anywhere else on the driver that might be creating a connection where there should not be?

I did run it without any switch and it worked fine, there was some fine solder dust on the pads above the switch pads when I got it. I made sure it wasnt crossing any other pads.

Going to put it back together again with switch hooked up and see how it does.

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JasonWW
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I’m thinking the mt03 uses a driver retaining ring?

Do you see any components on the driver, on either side, that might be sticking out too far and touching to ground that shouldnt?

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On the plus side, it looks like the switch lights are figured out. A common negative ground. So if you do hook those up you need to make sure the black switch wire goes to negative.

You could combine the blue and yellow wires to make both light up, but you’ll probably need an extra resistor. You’ll need more resistance than 1000 ohm.

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JasonWW wrote:
I’m thinking the mt03 uses a driver retaining ring?

Do you see any components on the driver, on either side, that might be sticking out too far and touching to ground that shouldnt?

nothing sticking out and shelf is super small.

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Hmmm, I’m running out of ideas.

Did you say it only messes up when the driver is mounted into place? If so it might mean the issue has something to do with that.

I also can’t comment if the indicator lights are supposed to be always on or not. My TA drivers are older and don’t have any indicator function. I just wired them to constant power to show if power was connected or cut off.

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The continuity test of the switch does not reflect the proper function of the switch in any way

Even if the switch gets down to 100kOhms it will pull the MCU pin down to ground

A quick and dirty fix for this would be a 4.7kOhms pull up resistor from MCU Vcc to switch pin 2 of the LED, this would eliminate false signals down to like 1 kOhms

So measuring on the board the resistance between both switch pads is a good indicator if there is a problem, same for the switch assembly, both should show at least 1 MOhms
I tested here a few boards with values of 3-6MOhms depending on polarity

I discovered sometimes dust and moisture on a board make things act up weird
This is why I clean the boards after testing them with alcohol and an electrical tooth brush, unfortunately the solder paste flux does not dissolve well with alcohol so tiny solder balls from reflow sometimes stick to the board and do survive cleaning, but if they do they wont come loose later