I’m debating on my next build and would like some input from y’all. I’d like to add a clear anodized C8 to the collection, and I want to use a XHP for some serious output. I recently put a XHP50 in my L2, and I love it. But the L2 is just too huge to lug around. So I think the C8 will fit the bill.
I’m undecided on a few things though:
XHP50.2 or XHP70 (both in 6v: plan on using 2 efest 18350’s)
I’ve never opened up a reflector to accommodate a larger emitter, so the XHP70 will be an added challenge if I go with that.
SMO or OP: I’d like a usable beam. I figure either XHP will give me plenty of spill even with a SMO, so OP might be overkill flood.
All of my builds have FET’s so I don’t think there is any reason to change things up now
I’d really like a lighted tailcap, but I keep reading that they cause issues with the drivers. This true?
I know this will put a ton of heat out, and won’t be usable on high for very long… but that’s what the other modes are for
I built a Supfire L6 ( C8 with 26650 tube/ 2 – 26650 ) with a XHP70 5k tint OP reflector/ fet driver —I shaved the dome also—made a very nice light — 3800 lm 60klux —— one of my favorite lights—— opening the reflector up is easy —- I used multiple bits graduating up very slowly
Nichia 144A! Or quad E21A on the new Virence board; E21As are borderless, so that works in a reflector just like an XHP does. You can even wire that for 3V.
But if you’re going with XHPs, I really don’t like the beams made by any of the XHP.2 emitters. They’re… multicolored. I’d go with the original XHP70 in the OP reflector for the best looking beam.
Also, Aspire 18350s and the new Keeppower 1200 mAh will significantly outperform those Efests.
—
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android | Zak Reviews – my flashlight reviews, with lots of runtime graphs
I built a Supfire L6 ( C8 with 26650 tube/ 2 – 26650 ) with a XHP70 5k tint OP reflector/ fet driver —I shaved the dome also—made a very nice light — 3800 lm 60klux —— one of my favorite lights—— opening the reflector up is easy —- I used multiple bits graduating up very slowly
Chops, did you have any issue with the reflector chipping where you were drilling? I was thinking maybe this would work best?
zak.wilson wrote:
Nichia 144A! Or quad E21A on the new Virence board; E21As are borderless, so that works in a reflector just like an XHP does. You can even wire that for 3V.
But if you’re going with XHPs, I really don’t like the beams made by any of the XHP.2 emitters. They’re… multicolored. I’d go with the original XHP70 in the OP reflector for the best looking beam.
Also, Aspire 18350s and the new Keeppower 1200 mAh will significantly outperform those Efests.
I’ve never owned a Nichia emitter; I kinda assumed they stereotypical sacrifice output for higher CRI…. and I don’t mind the color difference personally. I’ll have to check out the Aspire and Keeppowers for sure. I appreciate the help!
Not so much the Reflector chipping —The metal is very thin so the bit cuts very fast—I found if you try to go too big too fast —it cuts the hole off center and out of round—- I bought 3 reflectors—trashed the first one going too fast—second was acceptable—third was almost perfect but I only cut 3/32 at a time—- A cheap Ryobi bit set from HD—- also I have a drill press—Al;most forgot—- Slow Speed
I’ve never owned a Nichia emitter; I kinda assumed they stereotypical sacrifice output for higher CRI…. and I don’t mind the color difference personally.
Then you don’t know what you’re missing. The easy way to find out is to put a 219C in a 3 volt light. Use it to illuminate objects that aren’t solid colors, but have some variation. Details become much more clear, like where one leaf on the ground ends and the next begins, or whether that long, sort of cylindrical object partially obscured in the grass is a stick or a snake.
The 144A is in the same ballpark for output as the XHP50 at low to medium current, but can’t be effectively driven as hard. I have a couple of them in Armytek Wizards that came with XHP50s. The one that’s actually the correct voltage lost about 6% (1429 lumens to 1343).
—
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android | Zak Reviews – my flashlight reviews, with lots of runtime graphs
Chops, did you have any issue with the reflector chipping where you were drilling?
I was thinking maybe this would work best?
I use those things for rough work, like forcing a larger hole in a steel plate for a bigger bolt, screw or nail. But I would not use it for something accurate as widening the opening in a reflector. There is a big risk that the drill will get jammed, which almost automatically will off-set the center of the opening. I would rather use something like this:
—
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
I use those things for rough work, like forcing a larger hole in a steel plate for a bigger bolt, screw or nail. But I would not use it for something accurate as widening the opening in a reflector. There is a big risk that the drill will get jammed, which almost automatically will off-set the center of the opening. I would rather use something like this:
I use those things for rough work, like forcing a larger hole in a steel plate for a bigger bolt, screw or nail. But I would not use it for something accurate as widening the opening in a reflector. There is a big risk that the drill will get jammed, which almost automatically will off-set the center of the opening. I would rather use something like this:
where yiu can buy this?
That is a tapered reamer. You can find them on Amazon
If your going to be a tint snob then just put the MT-G2 in there.
which is my vote anyway.
—
(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)
Hey guys,
I’m debating on my next build and would like some input from y’all. I’d like to add a clear anodized C8 to the collection, and I want to use a XHP for some serious output. I recently put a XHP50 in my L2, and I love it. But the L2 is just too huge to lug around. So I think the C8 will fit the bill.
I’m undecided on a few things though:
I know this will put a ton of heat out, and won’t be usable on high for very long… but that’s what the other modes are for
Thanks for your input!
I built a Supfire L6 ( C8 with 26650 tube/ 2 – 26650 ) with a XHP70 5k tint OP reflector/ fet driver —I shaved the dome also—made a very nice light — 3800 lm 60klux —— one of my favorite lights—— opening the reflector up is easy —- I used multiple bits graduating up very slowly
Nichia 144A! Or quad E21A on the new Virence board; E21As are borderless, so that works in a reflector just like an XHP does. You can even wire that for 3V.
But if you’re going with XHPs, I really don’t like the beams made by any of the XHP.2 emitters. They’re… multicolored. I’d go with the original XHP70 in the OP reflector for the best looking beam.
Also, Aspire 18350s and the new Keeppower 1200 mAh will significantly outperform those Efests.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android | Zak Reviews – my flashlight reviews, with lots of runtime graphs
Chops, did you have any issue with the reflector chipping where you were drilling? I was thinking maybe this would work best?
I’ve never owned a Nichia emitter; I kinda assumed they stereotypical sacrifice output for higher CRI…. and I don’t mind the color difference personally. I’ll have to check out the Aspire and Keeppowers for sure. I appreciate the help!
Not so much the Reflector chipping —The metal is very thin so the bit cuts very fast—I found if you try to go too big too fast —it cuts the hole off center and out of round—- I bought 3 reflectors—trashed the first one going too fast—second was acceptable—third was almost perfect but I only cut 3/32 at a time—- A cheap Ryobi bit set from HD—- also I have a drill press—Al;most forgot—- Slow Speed
Then you don’t know what you’re missing. The easy way to find out is to put a 219C in a 3 volt light. Use it to illuminate objects that aren’t solid colors, but have some variation. Details become much more clear, like where one leaf on the ground ends and the next begins, or whether that long, sort of cylindrical object partially obscured in the grass is a stick or a snake.
The 144A is in the same ballpark for output as the XHP50 at low to medium current, but can’t be effectively driven as hard. I have a couple of them in Armytek Wizards that came with XHP50s. The one that’s actually the correct voltage lost about 6% (1429 lumens to 1343).
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android | Zak Reviews – my flashlight reviews, with lots of runtime graphs
I use those things for rough work, like forcing a larger hole in a steel plate for a bigger bolt, screw or nail. But I would not use it for something accurate as widening the opening in a reflector. There is a big risk that the drill will get jammed, which almost automatically will off-set the center of the opening. I would rather use something like this:
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
where yiu can buy this?
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I made a Convoy C8 XHP70 not so long ago. Here is the thread.
Maybe there is answer for some questions.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
That is a tapered reamer. You can find them on Amazon
If your going to be a tint snob then just put the MT-G2 in there.
which is my vote anyway.
(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)