Haikelite MT09R Test/Review Beam video footage.

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hIKARInoob
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mortuus wrote:
It was supposed to peak 1000m throw and have 300,000cd the XHP35 HI but sadly the final units didnt reach that for some reason and even more weird why post that kind of numbers if not live up to it ? Sad

The only light that comes close to this value is Terry’s 35 that initially did about 6000 lumens. With a spring bypass he got close to 7000 lumens, and the lux value should be close to 300k cd I guess.

smokuxx1987
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Spring bypass = loss of warranty
It is typical to DD driver: higher Vf = lower current

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smokuxx1987 wrote:
Spring bypass = loss of warranty
It is typical to DD driver: higher Vf = lower current

Does anyone really care about warranties? I always void the warranty shortly after getting a light. I’m weird like that.

The 35 light does not use DD, does it? We know the 70.2 light does.

I’m not sure what kind of driver the 35 lights use. Is it possible to use a FET driver with such a large voltage difference and not get too much current and burn up the emitters?

I was thinking it might be a buck driver like you see a lot of other 4 cell (16.8v) to 12v emitter lights.

The two drivers do look very similar. I really don’t know.

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arficus
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>> Does anyone really care about warranties?

I’m sure many people do, even those who mod lights. I sometimes pay a premium for what I consider (or hope will be) a premium product, intending it to be plug’n‘play, expecting it to last and be covered by warranty should it fail. I would certainly put a $100+ flashlight in this category.

smokuxx1987
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JasonWW wrote:
smokuxx1987 wrote:
Spring bypass = loss of warranty
It is typical to DD driver: higher Vf = lower current

Does anyone really care about warranties? I always void the warranty shortly after getting a light. I’m weird like that.

The 35 light does not use DD, does it? We know the 70.2 light does.

I’m not sure what kind of driver the 35 lights use. Is it possible to use a FET driver with such a large voltage difference and not get too much current and burn up the emitters?

I was thinking it might be a buck driver like you see a lot of other 4 cell (16.8v) to 12v emitter lights.

The two drivers do look very similar. I really don’t know.

If spring bypass make a diferences it must be DD driver.

Vf XHP35 HI in 2.3A = 14V
4 cell Sanyo GA discharged 2A ~16V
+spring resistance
+driver resistance

And the right resistor will do the trick

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JasonWW i care about warranty for a 100$ light as i dont have the skills required to do it and if u dont know what u are doing its better not even try.

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JasonWW wrote:
smokuxx1987 wrote:
Spring bypass = loss of warranty
It is typical to DD driver: higher Vf = lower current

Does anyone really care about warranties? I always void the warranty shortly after getting a light. I’m weird like that.

The 35 light does not use DD, does it? We know the 70.2 light does.

I’m not sure what kind of driver the 35 lights use. Is it possible to use a FET driver with such a large voltage difference and not get too much current and burn up the emitters?

I was thinking it might be a buck driver like you see a lot of other 4 cell (16.8v) to 12v emitter lights.

The two drivers do look very similar. I really don’t know.


I have seen pictures of the driver here in this thread. The drivers looks the same, but the 35er has no AMC7135 on the driver.
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
smokuxx1987 wrote:
Spring bypass = loss of warranty
It is typical to DD driver: higher Vf = lower current

Does anyone really care about warranties? I always void the warranty shortly after getting a light. I’m weird like that.

The 35 light does not use DD, does it? We know the 70.2 light does.

I’m not sure what kind of driver the 35 lights use. Is it possible to use a FET driver with such a large voltage difference and not get too much current and burn up the emitters?

I was thinking it might be a buck driver like you see a lot of other 4 cell (16.8v) to 12v emitter lights.

The two drivers do look very similar. I really don’t know.


I have seen pictures of the driver here in this thread. The drivers looks the same, but the 35er has no AMC7135 on the driver.

I gave a link to the pictures to Lexel. I’ll report back what he thinks.

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Lexel says the 35 driver looks like a 1 channel FET driver. There are no 7135 chips because 8 or so volts is about their limit.

He says they might have a limiting resistor mounted on the mcpcb to help disipate it’s heat, as apposed to being mounted on the driver.

I do remember Terry saying it was driver related and not so much a different resistor on the mcpcb, so who knows?

Has anyone seen the 35 mcpcb?

Edit: Talking about it on the GB thread, a person has said there is no limiting resistor on the mcpcb.

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NOT Haikelite U...
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I can't stay on tonight. I have a ton of work to do both in the office and in the shop but, I will point out to you what TA and I have found to first off be totally unnecessary and second it is defiantly causing the flickering or people that get a blink when they try to turn it on and that is all they get is that blink they nothing.


There was a capacitor that was added to the original design  and we can find no reason at all for it having been added.

I will post a picture of the capacitor that we have very carefully removed. After removing it all of the blinking and flickering issues where people were having to tighten or loosen the tail cap are all gone.

TA measured the Parasitic drain just to be sure someone did not add that to try and lower it. ANd after removing that capacitor parasitic drain is better than it was before the cap was removed. 220ua

Removing it is pretty simple as long as you have the temperature controlled on your iron and don't just go at it wide open. The side connected to the pad is the easiest side to start with, once I get that side loose I just put the tip of my iron on the capacitor itself just until it gets hot enough to pull away from the other side.

 

If you know what you are doing and have soldered components like this before it will be a breeze. But, if you are not familiar with soldering these types of components it would be best left to someone that has much more experience. 

The back side of that capacitor connection must not be over heated, you will pretty much kill the whole driver is that tiny little part get damaged in the process.

 

I have been testing one of each unit for over a week now with this modification to the driver and both units are working great.

 

Please remember I am not telling anyone to or not to attempt removing that capacitor themselves I am only telling you what I will be spending most of the night doing to the stock I have here on hand and my next shipment as well when it arrives. So this is what was decided on as being a problem.

 

I will probably not be back on tonight as I said I have about 15 or 16 here that I have to do. It honestly takes longer to get to the capacitor than to remove it.

 

Just trying to keep you informed about things happening... LOL I had not abandoned you I just had to get to work and find the issue and get it fixed.

 

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Someone surely decided to put it there for a reason. Is Haikelite aware of this modification that you are suggesting? I’m quite unfamiliar with drivers, but isn’t that capacitor acting like a soft start for the leds/driver by any chance?

arficus
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And unless we hear differently from Dale, please remember you will be voiding your warranty by removing cap.

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I reposted Terry’s above info in the GB thread as well. We were talking about the drivers over there. I was trying to. Lol
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1290460#comment-1290460

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torchfanatic
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Hi guys

Need some help please, I brought this light from someone off Ebay. I can’t find it in my purchase history anymore!

I would like to know if it is the 3x CREE XHP35 – Hi or 3x CREE XHP70.2 version

I know it’s Neutral White but that’s about it!

Also has the previous guy removed the springs for better connectivity?

Whats-App-Image-2019-08-02-at-11-59-30-AM-1
Whats-App-Image-2019-08-02-at-11-59-30-AM-2
Whats-App-Image-2019-08-02-at-11-59-30-AM
Whats-App-Image-2019-08-02-at-11-59-31-AM-1
Whats-App-Image-2019-08-02-at-11-59-31-AM-2
Whats-App-Image-2019-08-02-at-11-59-31-AM-3
Whats-App-Image-2019-08-02-at-11-59-31-AM-4
Whats-App-Image-2019-08-02-at-11-59-31-AM-5
Whats-App-Image-2019-08-02-at-11-59-31-AM-6
Whats-App-Image-2019-08-02-at-11-59-31-AM
upload photos online

Thank you !!

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3x CREE XHP70.2 version

looks like the first owner removed the plastic round disk so flat battery can work. I did the same with mine.

Nico -.-

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Springs are still there. The batteries are two up and two down. Be sure to place the bottom of the battery on the spring and top of the battery on the spring-less contact pad.

When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

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Thanks for the responses guys, much appreciated!

Have a good weekend!

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Hi guys

Am I correct in saying that on the 3x CREE XHP70.2 version:

Max output in Neutral White is 15,000 lumens?

Max output on Cool white is 25,000?

I have the Neutral white so I am just trying to figure out what is the max lumens for the one with pics that I posted above

Thank you

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torchfanatic wrote:
Hi guys

Am I correct in saying that on the 3x CREE XHP70.2 version:

Max output in Neutral White is 15,000 lumens?

Max output on Cool white is 25,000?

I have the Neutral white so I am just trying to figure out what is the max lumens for the one with pics that I posted above

Thank you


Not at all, in fact, some of the NW had higher output than the CW. I don’t think any version measured as high as 25,000. They seemed to vary from about 17k-22k. Iirc.

These are direct drive lights so they are not regulated. The output will vary based on the battery used, the forward voltage of the particular leds used, how much resistance there is in the springs, etc… The only way to know for sure is to measure the output.

What batteries are you using? Do you know what UI is on it? Is it the Haikelite UI, or is it NarsilM? I don’t know which driver you have. I might be able to estimate an output for you.

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hIKARInoob
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^^^ He has the original non TA stock driver. I think it outputs around 13000 lumens.

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hIKARInoob wrote:
^^^ He has the original non TA stock driver. I think it outputs around 13000 lumens.

It would still depend a lot on what batteries he’s using. If it is the older driver, then 13k might be the most you could get using high drain cells. If he’s using lesser batteries, the output would be less.

PS, how can you tell he’s got the older driver? I can’t tell from the pictures.

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JasonWW wrote:
hIKARInoob wrote:
^^^ He has the original non TA stock driver. I think it outputs around 13000 lumens.

It would still depend a lot on what batteries he’s using. If it is the older driver, then 13k might be the most you could get using high drain cells. If he’s using lesser batteries, the output would be less.

PS, how can you tell he’s got the older driver? I can’t tell from the pictures.

I had a pm chat with him. He has the black driver that just says “Haike Lighting”.

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hIKARInoob wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
hIKARInoob wrote:
^^^ He has the original non TA stock driver. I think it outputs around 13000 lumens.

It would still depend a lot on what batteries he’s using. If it is the older driver, then 13k might be the most you could get using high drain cells. If he’s using lesser batteries, the output would be less.

PS, how can you tell he’s got the older driver? I can’t tell from the pictures.

I had a pm chat with him. He has the black driver that just says “Haike Lighting”.


Okay, so it’s the less powerful driver. Now it’s just a matter of the battery being used. Ultimately it’s not about measured lumens, it’s more about is the light bright enough for you. Sure he could swap drivers and get more lumens, but it will heat up faster in the process. There’s always pros and cons.

Let’s hope there are no issues with the thermal step down. I think that was the main concern on some of those original drivers. It’s been a while, so I can’t remember too much on why they changed them.

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JasonWW wrote:

Okay, so it’s the less powerful driver. Now it’s just a matter of the battery being used. Ultimately it’s not about measured lumens, it’s more about is the light bright enough for you. Sure he could swap drivers and get more lumens, but it will heat up faster in the process. There’s always pros and cons.

Let’s hope there are no issues with the thermal step down. I think that was the main concern on some of those original drivers. It’s been a while, so I can’t remember too much on why they changed them.

The thermal protection is a joke. The light was advertised with thermal protection at 50 C. It does actually step down at a set temperature of +/- 50 C, however it steps down from ~13000 lumens to something like 10000 lumens. So the step down temperature is still way too high for steady state operation. This means the temperature will keep increasing until failure, or until the user reduces output manually.
The biggest problem with the first generation was the actual driver design. It had a bunch of 7135 chips in the circumference of the driver, just like how it’s done with a TA driver. Except the 7135 chips can only support a 6V XHP70 led in theory; in practice there is a good likeliness the chips get killed due to voltage spike or something like that. I have no understanding of this matter; Texas Ace knows everything well.
Somehow there was a problem with the pre-production of the driver, so Haikelite corrected the flaw by soldering a resistor (I thought it was a resistor) between the led-pad, and somewhere else on the driver. Nobody knows what that resistor was for.
When people started reporting problems with their lights, Terry and Texas Ace started looking for possible problems and discovered that removing the resistor (which was put there for a reason) the light would perform better.
Basically, Texas Ace said it was a junk driver and designed one from scratch. I do have the original black non TA driver in my MT09R lights, and all work fine. I guess I’m lucky.
My green MT09R XHP70.2 is still one of my favourite lights.

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Thanks for the replies guys and keen interest to help me!

I am currently using the Samsung 30Q’s that I use for my BLF!

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torchfanatic wrote:
Thanks for the replies guys and keen interest to help me!

I am currently using the Samsung 30Q’s that I use for my BLF!


Those should be giving you good output. Maybe 13k like hIKARInoob said.

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