The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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Starkm32
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TQ, Jason!

The color/tint chart helps in visualizing.

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Why do some people in public that wear a mask NOT cover their nose with the mask?

I mean, they do realize how COVID-19 is spread, right?

(For those that don't know: it's spread through the respiratory system, of which the nose is part of.)

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raccoon city wrote:

Why do some people in public that wear a mask NOT cover their nose with the mask?


I mean, they do realize how COVID-19 is spread, right?


(For those that don’t know: it’s spread through the respiratory system, of which the nose is part of.)

From personal experience they are sick of smelling their own stanky breath in the mask.

Oh, and don’t they know/care at all that wearing their mask it to protect OTHERS, not themself.

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So I have this weird thing going on with my Thrunite TN40S. Turbo works well, but only for a short time, then it flickers and shuts off. What could be the problem? All other modes seems to work great without problems.
Thinking of modding this with Lexel’s driver which probably would fix the problem, but not sure yet. Any other good mods for this or compatible parts to use? Maybe I put this up to trade because havent really used this much and would like to get a single led thrower. Could this be turned into a flooder?

MoreHiCRILumens
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MoreLumens wrote:
So I have this weird thing going on with my Thrunite TN40S. Turbo works well, but only for a short time, then it flickers and shuts off. What could be the problem? All other modes seems to work great without problems.

Checked with different set of batteries and no problem anymore.

JasonWW
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MoreLumens wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
So I have this weird thing going on with my Thrunite TN40S. Turbo works well, but only for a short time, then it flickers and shuts off. What could be the problem? All other modes seems to work great without problems.

Checked with different set of batteries and no problem anymore.


What kind of batteries was it?

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MoreHiCRILumens
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JasonWW wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
So I have this weird thing going on with my Thrunite TN40S. Turbo works well, but only for a short time, then it flickers and shuts off. What could be the problem? All other modes seems to work great without problems.

Checked with different set of batteries and no problem anymore.


What kind of batteries was it?

NCR18650B’s. Maybe one of them is getting old or something like that? Havent really noticed any differences when using same batteries in single cell lights.

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I tried twice with no luck[ a pm and post on another thread] and still do not want to start a thread for this. Hopefully someone here takes the time and gives me the answer!

I am getting NOCTIGON K1 with Anduril firmware[First light with this]

This is about Anduril firmware. Specifically the THERMAL CONFIGURATION SETTING.

Are there any pauses or blinks to confirm each phase?

Do I simply just transition from 1. CURRENT TEMP. CALIBRATION[Thermal config. mode] Right into 2. Temperature limit?

Part of manual below

*******************************************************************************************************************

Thermal configuration Look at a thermometer to check the current room
temperature. Let us assume it says 21 Celsius.
Turn the light off and wait for its temperature to settle
to room temperature.
Go to TempCheck (from OFF: “Click Click Click”. Ascend
with double-clicks three times)
When you are in TempCheck, then click 4 times to enter
thermal config mode, and calibrate the sensor.

Thermal config mode has
two settings:
1. Current temperature
Calibration. Click once per
degree C to calibrate the
sensor. For our example,
the ambient temperature
is 21 C = click 21 times.
2. Temperature limit. This
sets the maximum
temperature the light can
reach before it will start
doing thermal regulation
to keep itself from
overheating. Click once
per degree C above 30. For example, to set the limit to
50 C, click 20 times. The default is 45 C (15 clicks).
Hint: If you don’t click, the lamp will leave the value
unchanged. The lowest value the user can set is 31 C,
by clicking once.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

IF there are no pauses and/or waiting for blinks to proceed between phases,,,below is what it should look like.

3 clicks
3 double clicks
4 clicks[enter config. mode]
21 clicks[21C/70F] equals Current Temp. Calibration
50 clicks-sets Temp limit to 80C/176F

Thank you

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JasonWW
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MoreLumens wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
So I have this weird thing going on with my Thrunite TN40S. Turbo works well, but only for a short time, then it flickers and shuts off. What could be the problem? All other modes seems to work great without problems.

Checked with different set of batteries and no problem anymore.


What kind of batteries was it?

NCR18650B’s. Maybe one of them is getting old or something like that? Havent really noticed any differences when using same batteries in single cell lights.


Those are old chemistry (2012) with a ton of voltage sag. I don’t know what kind of driver the TN40S uses, but if it’s a Buck or Boost driver the voltage sag might have been too great. We saw the same issue in the BLF GT when people used 4 of the Panny B. When fully charged the voltage sag was so great that after just 10 seconds it could not stay in regulation and output suffered. I would guess the driver in the TN40S just turns off when the voltage sag can’t sustain Turbo. That’s odd, you would think they would design it to just step down to the next power level.

The cells are not protected, right? Some Boost drivers will draw more current as the battery voltage drops. This can trip protection circuits if they are low amperage like 3A.

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MoreHiCRILumens
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JasonWW wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
So I have this weird thing going on with my Thrunite TN40S. Turbo works well, but only for a short time, then it flickers and shuts off. What could be the problem? All other modes seems to work great without problems.

Checked with different set of batteries and no problem anymore.


What kind of batteries was it?

NCR18650B’s. Maybe one of them is getting old or something like that? Havent really noticed any differences when using same batteries in single cell lights.


Those are old chemistry (2012) with a ton of voltage sag. I don’t know what kind of driver the TN40S uses, but if it’s a Buck or Boost driver the voltage sag might have been too great. We saw the same issue in the BLF GT when people used 4 of the Panny B. When fully charged the voltage sag was so great that after just 10 seconds it could not stay in regulation and output suffered. I would guess the driver in the TN40S just turns off when the voltage sag can’t sustain Turbo. That’s odd, you would think they would design it to just step down to the next power level.

The cells are not protected, right? Some Boost drivers will draw more current as the battery voltage drops. This can trip protection circuits if they are low amperage like 3A.

They are protected and were fully charged when I tried.

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BaronVonEissler wrote:

This is about Anduril firmware. Specifically the THERMAL CONFIGURATION SETTING.

Are there any pauses or blinks to confirm each phase?

Do I simply just transition from 1. CURRENT TEMP. CALIBRATION[Thermal config. mode] Right into 2. Temperature limit?


Yes.

It will make more sense once you try it.

You go to where it blinks out the current temperature (when light is room temp inside and out) then you click 4 times fast.

You’ll see a single blink and then a fast “flutter”. It’s like a dim strobe. While its fluttering you do your current room temp clicks.

Once you pause you will see it blink twice and do another flutter. This is when you click your max limit.

After a pause it will go back to flashing out the current temp.

https://youtu.be/h_mZ35IPLMA?t=875

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MoreLumens wrote:

They are protected and were fully charged when I tried.

Protected Panny B have even more voltage sag! Not good for anything drawing medium to high current. The flashlight turning off does sound like a protection circuit tripping. When one trips it puts more amperage on the others causing them to trip. I think the TN40S is 7.2 volt so 2S2P. So one cell tripping a bit early will end up cutting all power.

I use my protected Panny B in low amperage lights only. They work fine there.

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JasonWW wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:

This is about Anduril firmware. Specifically the THERMAL CONFIGURATION SETTING.

Are there any pauses or blinks to confirm each phase?

Do I simply just transition from 1. CURRENT TEMP. CALIBRATION[Thermal config. mode] Right into 2. Temperature limit?


Yes.

It will make more sense once you try it.

You go to where it blinks out the current temperature (when light is room temp inside and out) then you click 4 times fast.

You’ll see a single blink and then a fast “flutter”. It’s like a dim strobe. While its fluttering you do your current room temp clicks.

Once you pause you will see it blink twice and do another flutter. This is when you click your max limit.

After a pause it will go back to flashing out the current temp.

Thanks alot. Thumbs Up

I knew there had to be some recognition/signal that a sequence was complete.

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MoreHiCRILumens
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JasonWW wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:

They are protected and were fully charged when I tried.

Protected Panny B have even more voltage sag! Not good for anything drawing medium to high current. The flashlight turning off does sound like a protection circuit tripping. When one trips it puts more amperage on the others causing them to trip. I think the TN40S is 7.2 volt so 2S2P. So one cell tripping a bit early will end up cutting all power.

I use my protected Panny B in low amperage lights only. They work fine there.

That explains. I was testing TN40S about two weeks ago when I was camping in a small island and easily reached +1 km. Not bad for a “floody” thrower.
NCR18650GA’s seems to work, but they are kinda old too, right?

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MoreLumens wrote:

NCR18650GA’s seems to work, but they are kinda old too, right?

The GA came out in 2015 and is the replacement for the B. It is a bit old, but the chemistry is still pretty close to current batteries. The B is rated at 4.8A continuous while the GA is rated at 10A. That’s a big difference plus there is a lot less voltage sag. I’d say the GA is a modern high capacity cell just like the LG MJ1 and Samsung 35E which also came out in 2015. They are all pretty close with max continuous output of 8 to 10 amps. The B model was truly an older generation.

See the comparison at 1A and 3A. A really big difference for about the same capacity.

At 5 amp it’s an even bigger difference. So there’s nothing wrong with the GA. It’s a good choice for when you need the highest capacity.

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I did a video just focusing on the Anduril Thermal Configuration. I hope it is clear.

https://youtu.be/1U9lck1×2_U

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JasonWW wrote:
I did a video just focusing on the Anduril Thermal Configuration. I hope it is clear.

https://youtu.be/1U9lck1×2_U

Thanks Jason. I will take notes and study it!I need to, memory is not that great. If I can not grasp I will send light to you.Lol!

It will get hot. Noctigon K1 with SBT-90.2

Personally I like Narsil better. Very simple steps to disable step down.Done in 10 seconds.

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smile 

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MoreLumens wrote:

NCR18650GA’s seems to work, but they are kinda old too, right?

One factor is when were they manufactured. Just because two batteries have the same name, that does not mean they are identical if from different production lots. At times they make modifications of the electrolyte and its additives, etc. as time passes. So it might not be the same old battery. Wish they would share more with us, but they do not want to share with their competitors.
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Helios azimuth wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:

NCR18650GA’s seems to work, but they are kinda old too, right?

One factor is when were they manufactured. Just because two batteries have the same name, that does not mean they are identical if from different production lots. At times they make modifications of the electrolyte and its additives, etc. as time passes. So it might not be the same old battery. Wish they would share more with us, but they do not want to share with their competitors.

I’m not so sure about that. If they change the chemical mix then they have to go through the entire testing and safety certification procedure. If they change the mix then they usually change the name also. For example the short lived Samsung 48G that they quickly replaced with the 50E just because it was a tiny bit better.

A Panny B made and bought today should perform just like they did when they first came out. No better or worse. Just my opinion on the subject.

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@JasonWW you may right, but it does happen. We do not know how often.
From docware on a different thread-
The study is dated 19.4.2017, cells are Panasonic NCR18650PD. You can read the whole study here :
https://mediatum.ub.tum.de/doc/1355829/file.pdf

The study states:
As these cathodic side reactions are not observed in the second study, it is assumed that slight changes in the functional materials, such as modifications of the electrolyte and its additives, have reduced the cathodic side reactions of the cells examined in the second aging study, which were produced several months later.

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Contacted Acebeam 1 week ago and no response. I want another carrier for my X65 MINI.

Does anyone know why the K60 battery carrier does not work in the X65 MINI? Carriers[battery config.] look the same. Only difference appears to be the shape and size of contact point at either end.

Could it be the type of metal? Aluminum vs. brass like?

K60 ON LEFT. X65 MINI ON Right

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BaronVonEissler wrote:
Contacted Acebeam 1 week ago and no response. I want another carrier for my X65 MINI. Does anyone know why the K60 battery carrier does not work in the X65 MINI? Carriers[battery config.] look the same. Only difference appears to be the shape and size of contact point at either end.

Could it be the type of metal? Aluminum vs. brass like?

K60 ON LEFT. X65 MINI ON Right



There could be slight differences in length. Take off the battery tube and press the carrier against the driver. See if it works.

Are the center springs the same height in both lights?

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I see the driver spring on the K60 is a lot longer. Maybe the center post of the K60 carrier is too low to contact the shorter spring on the X65 driver.

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JasonWW wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:
Contacted Acebeam 1 week ago and no response. I want another carrier for my X65 MINI. Does anyone know why the K60 battery carrier does not work in the X65 MINI? Carriers[battery config.] look the same. Only difference appears to be the shape and size of contact point at either end.

Could it be the type of metal? Aluminum vs. brass like?

K60 ON LEFT. X65 MINI ON Right



There could be slight differences in length. Take off the battery tube and press the carrier against the driver. See if it works.

Are the center springs the same height in both lights?

K60 carrier worked when I pressed it against driver.

K60 battery tube is longer and has spring at bottom. X65 has NO spring at bottom. Maybe that is why?

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K60

X65vn MINI

Together-K60 on Left

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BaronVonEissler wrote:

K60 battery tube is longer and has spring at bottom. X65 has NO spring at bottom. Maybe that is why?


Yes, there you go. The battery tube needs to push the carrier against the driver to get both positive and negative to make contact. You would need to add a spacer to the X65 tail cap to push it forward more. Maybe some foam or cardboard will work.

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JasonWW wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:

K60 battery tube is longer and has spring at bottom. X65 has NO spring at bottom. Maybe that is why?


Yes, there you go. The battery tube needs to push the carrier against the driver to get both positive and negative to make contact. You would need to add a spacer to the X65 tail cap to push it forward more. Maybe some foam or cardboard will work.

That makes sense. The carriers are basically identical and when the light is tightened there is good contact.

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In general how many amps can an XHP35 HI PULL?

This is in my X65vn MINI.I am thinking of getting Molicel P26A/VTC5D as second set of batteries which are much, much better than 30Q/VTC6 or MJ1 on HKJ voltage curve at 15amp and 20 amps.

Thanks

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BaronVonEissler wrote:
In general how many amps can an XHP35 HI PULL?

This is in my X65vn MINI.I am thinking of getting Molicel P26A/VTC5D as second set of batteries which are much, much better than 30Q/VTC6 or MJ1 on HKJ voltage curve at 15amp and 20 amps.

Thanks


You rarely see them used with FET drivers. With a Buck driver like in the GT it’s set to 2.5A Turbo. The Boost driver in the MF04 is maybe 2.7A, but that is pushing it. Most drivers limit it to 1.8 to 2 amp. More amperage only gives a tiny bit more output, but a lot more heat.

I don’t know what driver design the X65 mini has, but if the carrier is 12v, then it’s probably a Buck driver. I would guess it’s no more than 2A per led, so maybe 10A draw on Turbo.

If you want more non consecutive Turbo runs, a high drain battery will work well. You don’t want a lot of voltage sag at 10A.

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