The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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BaronVonEissler
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JasonWW wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:
In general how many amps can an XHP35 HI PULL?

This is in my X65vn MINI.I am thinking of getting Molicel P26A/VTC5D as second set of batteries which are much, much better than 30Q/VTC6 or MJ1 on HKJ voltage curve at 15amp and 20 amps.

Thanks


You rarely see them used with FET drivers. With a Buck driver like in the GT it’s set to 2.5A Turbo. The Boost driver in the MF04 is maybe 2.7A, but that is pushing it. Most drivers limit it to 1.8 to 2 amp. More amperage only gives a tiny bit more output, but a lot more heat.

I don’t know what driver design the X65 mini has, but if the carrier is 12v, then it’s probably a Buck driver. I would guess it’s no more than 2A per led, so maybe 10A draw on Turbo.

If you want more non consecutive Turbo runs, a high drain battery will work well. You don’t want a lot of voltage sag at 10A.

This is Not stock anymore. It is X65vn MINI. I heard he uses FET drivers from Richard. Not sure if it is in all of his lights.

In my type A analyzing brain I try to find the best combo of amp draw and run time. The re wrap VTC6[Acebeam batteries ] do pretty good. MJ1 higher incremental voltages but less output, which probably is not noticeable. Basically getting 15 minutes of turbo in 3 minute increments.

P26A would probably be 12 or 13 but more output. It is crazy how powerful the light is. Eating up 4 × 18650 on turbo in 15 minutes!

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JasonWW
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Okay, so you have the X65vn Mini from Skylumen? I don’t know what driver it has then. Might be FET. Best thing to do is ask Vin what battery to use. He is the one that knows.

(I thought you had the stock light and was thinking of sending it to Skylumen)

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BaronVonEissler
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JasonWW wrote:
Okay, so you have the X65vn Mini from Skylumen? I don’t know what driver it has then. Might be FET. Best thing to do is ask Vin what battery to use. He is the one that knows.

(I thought you had the stock light and was thinking of sending it to Skylumen)

I did have the stock light. Sent it to him, got it back in 5 days total.. sent last Saturday and got yesterday!

I know the high drains are better, the MJ1 will get more run time but less output. Just wanted to know amp draw for XHP35 HI.

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JasonWW
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Do you know what kind of driver the vnx2 is?

I’d just get whatever high drain cell is convenient for you. 30Q, VTC5D, VTC6, Molicel P26A, P28A. All are good.

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BaronVonEissler
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JasonWW wrote:
Do you know what kind of driver the vnx2 is?

I’d just get whatever high drain cell is convenient for you. 30Q, VTC5D, VTC6, Molicel P26A, P28A. All are good.

No,,,I will use P26A for spares, second run. The only way to know there run time versus other batts is to get them. I know they will provide plenty of amps.

Here was my run[post] for tonight:

I picked the best setting for me. 1%/30% and 100%

It was 58F out tonight. Initial burst was for 5.5 minutes on turbo. Then a few minutes on 1% to cool down, then 30%[which is ~3200L] for several minutes where it won’t get hot, then back to 100%………..repeat cycle! Thumbs Up

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I’ve used my brother’s rotary tool to first cut then sand down small pieces of metal into even smaller ones a couple of times recently.
F.e. I made a couple of 10 mm MCPCBs from 20 mm ones.
Now I need to do it again, reducing 20×20 mm copper piece to about 8 mm in diameter.

So far I kept the work piece in my fingers. It was not safe and I don’t want to do it like this any more.
I tried pliers but since the jaws are not parallel, they grip only the edge and the work piece rotates.
I tried pliers with some paper, it was a little better – but only a little.

I considered vice but:

  • it makes cooling harder
  • I can’t clamp it in the room that is the easiest to clean – bathroom

Can anyone give me suggestions how to do it safely and conveniently?

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Agro
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Thank you, this let me notice that I have tongue-and-groove pliers. I just tried – they work great for me.
Smile

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Agro wrote:
I’ve used my brother’s rotary tool to first cut then sand down small pieces of metal into even smaller ones a couple of times recently.
F.e. I made a couple of 10 mm MCPCBs from 20 mm ones.
Now I need to do it again, reducing 20×20 mm copper piece to about 8 mm in diameter.

So far I kept the work piece in my fingers. It was not safe and I don’t want to do it like this any more.
I tried pliers but since the jaws are not parallel, they grip only the edge and the work piece rotates.
I tried pliers with some paper, it was a little better – but only a little.

I considered vice but:

  • it makes cooling harder
  • I can’t clamp it in the room that is the easiest to clean – bathroom

Can anyone give me suggestions how to do it safely and conveniently?

Knipex Adjustable Pliers Wrench the jaws are always parallel.

Tom E
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Forgive my stupid questions (ohh! It's ok to be stupid here! smile), but I'm look'n for a better way as well to rotary tool small chunks of copper:

  • what are tongue and groove pliers?
  • how do you guys prevent damaging the rather soft copper of MCPCB's with these kind of pliers with such a small surface area of the MCPCB to access?

 

Agro
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tongue and groove pliers (not mine):

I used a piece of paper-and-bubblewrap envelope to protect the MCPCBs. Plastic + paper turned out to be adequate soft jaws material. Though not very durable due to water softening the paper.

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Ahh, ok. I'll have to try this next time. Thanx!

Those Knipex at $53 discounted are a big investment, but might be worth buying if I had other uses. But they look like a smooth finish jaw so not sure if they can hold the MCPCB very well.

I got a few locking pliers types, but again not sure bout the teeth and adding cushioning. Some have teeth that are too big, or deep teeth that are hard to cushion. I'll have to see.

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Maybe Harbor Freight has something cheaper than the Knipex?

Helios azimuth
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We call tongue and groove pliers “Channel Locks” and locking pliers “Vice Grips,” though that might not be the real names. Never heard them called anything else, but a rose by any name would smell as sweet.

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I ordered a Convoy M21C from Banggood. I just checked for an update and I realized that the shipping method says “Ocean Shipping.”

Does that mean the slow boat from China, or could it be the name of a shipping company based out of China that ships by air, and sea.

My Future's So Bright...well, my flashlights are anyways.

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I think it’s transliterated from Oh Shin Shi Ping.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Lightbringer wrote:
I think it's transliterated from Oh Shin Shi Ping.
 

My first laugh out loud in a few weeks. Thanks! I needed a nice, big laugh out loud.

:

 

 

Rev 22:15

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Thanks Lightbringer, I have to clean the coffee off my keyboard now. LOL!!! Beer

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I actually just used a pair of channel lock/tongue-and-groove pliers for the first time today for swapping a boat trailer jack… I’m buying some ASAP. SO much faster than setting an adjustable wrench.

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Anyone know if the pocket clips are interchangeable between the FW3A and FW21A?

JasonWW
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iamidaho wrote:
Anyone know if the pocket clips are interchangeable between the FW3A and FW21A?

The diameters are different, so no interchangeability.

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Agro
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Helios azimuth wrote:
We call tongue and groove pliers “Channel Locks” and locking pliers “Vice Grips,” though that might not be the real names. Never heard them called anything else, but a rose by any name would smell as sweet.

I used wikipedia to get the name. I knew the polish name, went to the right article and switched language. Smile
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tongue-and-groove_pliers
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We usually call them slip-joint pliers…. sometimes channel locks. Never heard tongue and groove tho(except for flooring and other wood products) Not sure how big the piece you are trying to hold but I use hemostats(medical pliers) for holding small stuff….. works really well.

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience


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Agro
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Coscar wrote:
We usually call them slip-joint pliers…. sometimes channel locks. Never heard tongue and groove tho(except for flooring and other wood products) Not sure how big the piece you are trying to hold but I use hemostats(medical pliers) for holding small stuff….. works really well.

I tried that before as well while shrinking a MCPCB from 20 to 10 mm. After adding cushion to the jaws they wouldn’t keep it securely. Maybe a different cushion material would work better but that’s what I came up with quickly. Wink
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Ive used buckskin leather and it worked well

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience


A little John Prine

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Nitecore D10 Issues

I am based in the UK

A double click on the button should ramp down the light from x (high) to y (off) gradually. Removing the finger from the button should stop the ramping somewhere between x and y.

Mine doesn’t do this. It is either on or off. Does this mean that the circuitry is shot? Is it resettable/repairable or have I just got a single mode torch/flashlight?

Thanks a lot for any words of advice.

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What’s the state of development on LEP? Do folks here think it’ll be a killer of LED-throwers? Might some makers combine an LEP (throw) with LED (spill) for the “near perfect” flashlight?

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I hope more LEP lights become available, less expensively. I think it will happen, but probably not for quite a while.

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Tom E wrote:

Ahh, ok. I’ll have to try this next time. Thanx!


Those Knipex at $53 discounted are a big investment, but might be worth buying if I had other uses. But they look like a smooth finish jaw so not sure if they can hold the MCPCB very well.


I got a few locking pliers types, but again not sure bout the teeth and adding cushioning. Some have teeth that are too big, or deep teeth that are hard to cushion. I’ll have to see.

I can see these may be useful – parallel fish & tackle pliers with neoprene pads.

Pic clicks to arbitrary store.

Tom E
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The brass lined version sounds real good: https://www.micromark.com/Parallel-Jaw-Brass-Lined-Plier

 

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