The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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Boaz
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I put Reeses Cups in the freezer so a cold Halloween might not be a bad thing .

 Why doesn't the rest of the world get rid of the metric system ?

 

If the mind is the devils playground .. Does that explain the monkey bars and the slide inside my head ?

 

 << that's evil right there !

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

lionheart_2281
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Boaz wrote:

I put Reeses Cups in the freezer so a cold Halloween might not be a bad thing .


 Why doesn’t the rest of the world get rid of the metric system ?


 


If the mind is the devils playground .. Does that explain the monkey bars and the slide inside my head ?



 


 << that’s evil right there !

How very American of you Big Smile

thijsco19
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Don’t you know that the US already is using the metric system?

They just like to convert it back to the imperial system.

pennzy
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Boaz wrote:

I put Reeses Cups in the freezer so a cold Halloween might not be a bad thing .


 Why doesn’t the rest of the world get rid of the metric system ?


 


If the mind is the devils playground .. Does that explain the monkey bars and the slide inside my head ?



 


 << that’s evil right there !


Girls push!
roostre
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lionheart_2281 wrote:
Robin Dobbie wrote:
Ok so a quick singe and then just repeat weekly. I'll try it.
Or a single squirt of Round Up lol...

 

Chemicals are quicker but could make you sicker and also maybe richer:

https://www.nytimes.com/2020/06/24/business/roundup-settlement-lawsuits....

Quote:
Roundup Maker to Pay $10 Billion to Settle Cancer Suits ...

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

lionheart_2281
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roostre wrote:

lionheart_2281 wrote:
Robin Dobbie wrote:
Ok so a quick singe and then just repeat weekly. I’ll try it.
Or a single squirt of Round Up lol…

 


Chemicals are quicker but could make you sicker and also maybe richer:


https://www.nytimes.com/2020/06/24/business/roundup-settlement-lawsuits....


Quote:
Roundup Maker to Pay $10 Billion to Settle Cancer Suits …

There are alternatives…plus after paying 10 billion you think they haven’t rectified the problem?

Robin Dobbie
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Lately I try not to presume what a corporation would or would not do with regards to rectifying problems.

Boaz
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 What ??   You have rectifying problems ?

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

lionheart_2281
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Boaz wrote:

 What ??   You have rectifying problems ?

No, only rectum problems Big Smile

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It seems to me like the actual force of the jet coming from a propane torch blows a lot of the heat out and away when you have it close to something. I’ve never had good luck with using them for weeds either.

Personally I’m going to keep using chemical weed killers. The studies on them, litigation that followed, and media portrayal of both aren’t really painting the whole picture:

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Is nextool and nextorch the same company ? I cant find anything on nextool’s history or origins.

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Hello, Im new to the forum.

Wondering if anyone who understands batteries can tell me if the 18650 from an Olight S2R Baton II Will work in the Manker MC13?

The Manker website just says:

***Kindly note: This item has included 1x Manker high drain 18350 battery with Type-C USB charging port.***

***Kindly note: If you select ‘yes’ under item option ‘ with 18650 tube’, you can also use 18650 battery in your hand. We highly recommend you to buy high quality high discharge 18650 battery***

I mean, I assume it will “work” but will it work properly? Are there any risks involved? Could I harm either the battery or the flashlight?

Any info is greatly appreciated, thanks.

JasonWW
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GNOMBEZ wrote:
Hello, Im new to the forum.

Wondering if anyone who understands batteries can tell me if the 18650 from an Olight S2R Baton II Will work in the Manker MC13?

The Manker website just says:

***Kindly note: This item has included 1x Manker high drain 18350 battery with Type-C USB charging port.***

***Kindly note: If you select ‘yes’ under item option ‘ with 18650 tube’, you can also use 18650 battery in your hand. We highly recommend you to buy high quality high discharge 18650 battery***

I mean, I assume it will “work” but will it work properly? Are there any risks involved? Could I harm either the battery or the flashlight?

Any info is greatly appreciated, thanks.


Okay, so to clarify, your talking about using the 18650 tube on the Manker MC13 so they both use the same size battery?

I don’t have either light so I did some quick research on them. The Olight battery is a specialized unit that has both positive and negative on the positive end and is also a button top. I believe that it should work in theory on the MC13, but there is a very real concern that the spring on the head of the MC13 could bend or tilt and make contact with both the positive and negative on that Olight battery and cause a direct short which could be disastrous. I would not take this risk. I would just get a regular 18650 battery.

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GNOMBEZ
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JasonWW wrote:
GNOMBEZ wrote:
Hello, Im new to the forum.

Wondering if anyone who understands batteries can tell me if the 18650 from an Olight S2R Baton II Will work in the Manker MC13?

The Manker website just says:

***Kindly note: This item has included 1x Manker high drain 18350 battery with Type-C USB charging port.***

***Kindly note: If you select ‘yes’ under item option ‘ with 18650 tube’, you can also use 18650 battery in your hand. We highly recommend you to buy high quality high discharge 18650 battery***

I mean, I assume it will “work” but will it work properly? Are there any risks involved? Could I harm either the battery or the flashlight?

Any info is greatly appreciated, thanks.


Okay, so to clarify, your talking about using the 18650 tube on the Manker MC13 so they both use the same size battery?

I don’t have either light so I did some quick research on them. The Olight battery is a specialized unit that has both positive and negative on the positive end and is also a button top. I believe that it should work in theory on the MC13, but there is a very real concern that the spring on the head of the MC13 could bend or tilt and make contact with both the positive and negative on that Olight battery and cause a direct short which could be disastrous. I would not take this risk. I would just get a regular 18650 battery.

Thanks for the response and info.

The Manker MC13 comes with an 18350, and has an optional 18650 tube I have also ordered with it.
I cant be sure what size 18650 the Manker tube will accept yet. I ordered it a few days ago and its still in the mail.
The website doesn’t specify beyond what I quoted in my posted question above.

You say my olight battery has both positive and negative on the same end.
Is that what “dual polarity” means?
Maybe I could cover the end of the battery in electrical tape so only the button top was exposed?
The other end of the battery is still a metal contact.

I know the Olight batteries in the Warrior X Pro and M2R Warrior Pro are modified in such a way those flashlights cannot even use any other battery. However, I’m pretty sure my S2R Baton II can at least use other 18650’s but just cant charge them. So I’m not sure its AS modified as the ones in those two flashlights.

What actually made me even consider this may not work is the fact that the 18350 the Manker comes with is 10A, and my Olight Battery doesn’t say what amperage it is. (I don’t know anything about batteries and their ratings)
Manker’s website just says to use a quality high drain battery. It doesn’t specify to use a 10A Battery

Unfortunately the whole reason I chose the Manker MC13 with the 18650 tube was because I have two of these S2R Baton II 18650’s and expected to just be able to use them..

JasonWW
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GNOMBEZ wrote:

I know the Olight batteries in the Warrior Pro and M2R Pro are modified like you described in such a way they cannot even use any other battery.

CORRECT

However, I’m pretty sure my S2R Baton II can at least use other 18650’s but just cant charge them.

CORRECT

So I’m not sure that its battery is as modified as the ones in those flashlights.

Edit: Some research of my own suggests my battery IS dual polarity, which is what your talking about?

YES

Maybe I could cover the end of the battery in electrical tape so only the button top was exposed?

VERY RISKY AS THE SPRING COULD SLOWLY PUSH THE TAPE OFF TO THE SIDE

(I’m trying to figure out how to post photos of my battery)

YOU NEED TO UPLOAD THE PICTURES TO A HOST WEBSITE (IMGUR FOR EXAMPLE) AND THEN PUT A LINK HERE.

The whole reason I bought the Manker MC13 with the 18650 tube was because I have two of these S2R Baton II 18650’s and expected to just be able to use them..

What actually made me even consider this may not work is the fact that the 18350 the Manker comes with is 10A (I don’t really know anything about what that means beside ‘A’ standing for Amps) And my Olight Battery doesn’t say what amperage it is.


As far as battery amperages is concerned, I don’t know what cell is being used under the wrapper of the Manker 18350 or the Olight 18650.

There do exist 18350 cells capable of 10 amp continuous output. Cells are put on a special testing device that maintains 10A as the battery voltage drops from 4.2v to 2.8v and the cell temperature does not exceed it’s rated temp. This is not the best test to use simply because flashlights don’t usually maintain the same amperage. Most start off with high amperage and then it gets lower and lower. Still, it’s a pretty decent test to compare one battery to another battery.

Only high drain 18350 can maintain a safe 10A continuous output. When you move to the bigger 18650 cells, even a high capacity version can safely maintain 10A. Even without knowing the exact cell that Olight is using in their S2R Baton II I’m pretty sure it can safely maintain 10 Amp. So that is nothing to worry about.

I’m not sure why you want to risk a fire or an explosion when you should be able to buy an 18650 cell for between $5 and $10 USD. I see you’re in Canada, are you having difficulty getting batteries?

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GNOMBEZ
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JasonWW wrote:
GNOMBEZ wrote:

I know the Olight batteries in the Warrior Pro and M2R Pro are modified like you described in such a way they cannot even use any other battery.

CORRECT

However, I’m pretty sure my S2R Baton II can at least use other 18650’s but just cant charge them.

CORRECT

So I’m not sure that its battery is as modified as the ones in those flashlights.

Edit: Some research of my own suggests my battery IS dual polarity, which is what your talking about?

YES

Maybe I could cover the end of the battery in electrical tape so only the button top was exposed?

VERY RISKY AS THE SPRING COULD SLOWLY PUSH THE TAPE OFF TO THE SIDE

(I’m trying to figure out how to post photos of my battery)

YOU NEED TO UPLOAD THE PICTURES TO A HOST WEBSITE (IMGUR FOR EXAMPLE) AND THEN PUT A LINK HERE.

The whole reason I bought the Manker MC13 with the 18650 tube was because I have two of these S2R Baton II 18650’s and expected to just be able to use them..

What actually made me even consider this may not work is the fact that the 18350 the Manker comes with is 10A (I don’t really know anything about what that means beside ‘A’ standing for Amps) And my Olight Battery doesn’t say what amperage it is.


As far as battery amperages is concerned, I don’t know what cell is being used under the wrapper of the Manker 18350 or the Olight 18650.

There do exist 18350 cells capable of 10 amp continuous output. Cells are put on a special testing device that maintains 10A as the battery voltage drops from 4.2v to 2.8v and the cell temperature does not exceed it’s rated temp. This is not the best test to use simply because flashlights don’t usually maintain the same amperage. Most start off with high amperage and then it gets lower and lower. Still, it’s a pretty decent test to compare one battery to another battery.

Only high drain 18350 can maintain a safe 10A continuous output. When you move to the bigger 18650 cells, even a high capacity version can safely maintain 10A. Even without knowing the exact cell that Olight is using in their S2R Baton II I’m pretty sure it can safely maintain 10 Amp. So that is nothing to worry about.

I’m not sure why you want to risk a fire or an explosion when you should be able to buy an 18650 cell for between $5 and $10 USD. I see you’re in Canada, are you having difficulty getting batteries?

Thanks a lot for the response and info. I really appreciate it.

I haven’t really looked into buying any 18650’s as I’ve pretty much only been looking at flashlights that come with batteries.

I chose the Manker MC13 over the Acebeam E10 because I assumed I’d be able use one of the two Olight 18650’s I already have.

At least it still comes with the 18350.

Thanks for saving me from the previously unknown risks!

Edit: Looking up batteries it seems I’m in way over my head as well.. I’m far too uneducated to understand all the different ratings and numbers. You can buy an 18650 with all sorts of different Amps and Voltages (I understand NOTHING about electricity, and frankly I don’t have the potential to ever understand it.)
It seems you have to be an electrical engineer or something to understand what I’m looking at to choose a battery.
And they range from $10 to around $40 for any branded ones.

richbuff
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Why don't we instead of using base 10, use base pi, so that pi = 10?

Not to brag or anything, but I'm kind of a big deal to my flashlights.

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GNOMBEZ wrote:

Edit: Looking up batteries it seems I’m in way over my head as well.. I’m far too uneducated to understand all the different ratings and numbers. You can buy an 18650 with all sorts of different Amps and Voltages (I understand NOTHING about electricity, and frankly I don’t have the potential to ever understand it.)
It seems you have to be an electrical engineer or something to understand what I’m looking at to choose a battery.
And they range from $10 to around $40 for any branded ones.

Do you have a battery charger of some kind?
For the MC13, Manker recommends a high discharge cell. Sometimes they will be more specific, but they are vague. I’d just get a Samsung 30Q. They are a great all around battery.

All lithium ion are going to be 3.7 volt nominal, 4.2 volt max. Some might be 4.3, but are rare so ignore those. The best brands and Samsung, LG, Panasonic/Sanyo, Molicel and Sony.

I know the goods stores in the USA but I don’t know of any stores in Canada. The store you buy from is a big deal. Some places sell fakes, so you want a store with a good reputation.

Try these stores in Canada.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW wrote:
lionheart_2281 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
lionheart_2281 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
lionheart_2281 wrote:
Why do yanks still use the ancient imperial system for measurements?

Will it explode their brains to join the rest of the planet and use the metric system?


We use what we’re told to use and what is around us constantly. Same as you. I think any complaints you have should be directed towards the government.

Isn’t this a Q and A thread? I’m not complaining, was hoping for an actual answer to my question


I don’t think there’s anyone from the US government on this forum that can answer you.

Damn, thought I might find Arnold Schwarzenegger or Kanye West on here…


Yep, it’s not a question that can be answered by the citizens.

.
So why the US still uses the English system is simple. It is too embedded and can only switch gradually over time.
Products made in English are difficult to switch to metric, it is better to design in metric. So as companies make new products in metric and older products in English wear out and replacement parts are no longer needed, then the metric system will gradually become more prominent.
.
Funny I worked at a small machine shop yrs ago that rebuilt nail making machines. They were made in China, everything was metric. I just switched the parameter in the CNC Mill to metric and typed in the metric values and out popped metric parts.
.
Neither one is more or less accurate than the other as far as linear measurement goes from a machining perspective. I work in both worlds and I see more simplification in the metric system.
.

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.

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Blame the media, too.

How many times have you seen an article that goes something along the lines of

The police followed the suspect 3.2km (1.98838781516mi) down the road...

Preheat your oven to 425°F (218.333333°C) before putting in the roast.

(instead of “2mi” and “220°C”, respectively) so they think by “going metric” they’ll have to carry around calculators and figure out things to 10 significant digits.

 

“Metric” is Big And Scary…

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Actually, the only system I have found useful is nautical miles. It is not based on some arbitrary value, but on the approximate circumference of the earth. It is about one minute of latitude along any line of longitude and a minute of longitude on the equator. Really close for most uses.

On an icebreaker headed north for New Zealand from Antarctica, the captain asked, “About how far is Wellington.” I looked at the chart and subtracted Wellington’s latitude from ours in my head and converted each degree to 60 minutes plus the remaining minutes. Gave him the nautical mile answer in about 10 seconds. He looked surprised and measured the distance with dividers based on the scale printed on the chart and got the same answer. Took him a minute or so. You can do the same on a trip from Los Angeles to Seattle or New York to Burlington as long as your map has latitude in the margin and approximate is good enough. A statute mile is about 1.14 nautical miles for another easy mental conversion. 6000 feet divided by 5280 feet is about 1.14 so add 10% or so and round up.

It works for east west as well if you know a little trig. At 45 degree latitude multiply longitude change by .7, close enough to .707, etc. Keep it simple and approximate. Those more into math can easily calculate trips at 45, 30, and 60 degrees from a cardinal direction without any trouble.

Other than this, all systems are fairly arbitrary IMHO. Anyone of average intelligence can use whatever they are taught. These days people just use mapping programs anyway. Of course, you might not agree, and I am fine with that. Sail on!

Edit: east west method.

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Helios azimuth wrote:
Other than this, all systems are fairly arbitrary IMHO.

The basis for metric units and the conversions between are at least as elegant, practical and well thought-out as nautical miles. Imperial system units are truly nutty, and decimals are so much easier to work with vs fractions in most cases.

GNOMBEZ
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JasonWW wrote:
GNOMBEZ wrote:

Edit: Looking up batteries it seems I’m in way over my head as well.. I’m far too uneducated to understand all the different ratings and numbers. You can buy an 18650 with all sorts of different Amps and Voltages (I understand NOTHING about electricity, and frankly I don’t have the potential to ever understand it.)
It seems you have to be an electrical engineer or something to understand what I’m looking at to choose a battery.
And they range from $10 to around $40 for any branded ones.

Do you have a battery charger of some kind?
For the MC13, Manker recommends a high discharge cell. Sometimes they will be more specific, but they are vague. I’d just get a Samsung 30Q. They are a great all around battery.

All lithium ion are going to be 3.7 volt nominal, 4.2 volt max. Some might be 4.3, but are rare so ignore those. The best brands and Samsung, LG, Panasonic/Sanyo, Molicel and Sony.

I know the goods stores in the USA but I don’t know of any stores in Canada. The store you buy from is a big deal. Some places sell fakes, so you want a store with a good reputation.

Try these stores in Canada.

No I don’t have a charger. That’s another reason I was hoping to be able to use the 18650’s from my two S2RII Batons.

I don’t understand anything about voltage or electricity in general.

Is there a reason Fenix and Nitecore batteries are like 3x the price of everything else?

GNOMBEZ
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So I’ve been doing some research on the Olight Warrior Mini and noticed a warning in its manual that says:

“Do not short-circuit the tail switch cap with the ring surrounding it. the short circuit in this case will result in an electrical discharge of below 3mA between them, and may lead to a complete battery drain if its in this state too long.”

Can anyone explain this in laymans terms to someone who understands nothing about electricity?
Will it just drain the battery and will need to be recharged?
Or will this damage the battery?

I don’t see this same warning in the manual for my Olight S2R II baton, but am wondering if it does have the same risk.

With both flashlights ends being a magnet, I would think your always at risk of making this contact just by sticking it to magnetic surfaces?
Or even just change in my pocket sticking to it.

Also, is there somewhere more appropriate to be asking this question?

JasonWW
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GNOMBEZ wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
GNOMBEZ wrote:

Edit: Looking up batteries it seems I’m in way over my head as well.. I’m far too uneducated to understand all the different ratings and numbers. You can buy an 18650 with all sorts of different Amps and Voltages (I understand NOTHING about electricity, and frankly I don’t have the potential to ever understand it.)
It seems you have to be an electrical engineer or something to understand what I’m looking at to choose a battery.
And they range from $10 to around $40 for any branded ones.

Do you have a battery charger of some kind?
For the MC13, Manker recommends a high discharge cell. Sometimes they will be more specific, but they are vague. I’d just get a Samsung 30Q. They are a great all around battery.

All lithium ion are going to be 3.7 volt nominal, 4.2 volt max. Some might be 4.3, but are rare so ignore those. The best brands and Samsung, LG, Panasonic/Sanyo, Molicel and Sony.

I know the goods stores in the USA but I don’t know of any stores in Canada. The store you buy from is a big deal. Some places sell fakes, so you want a store with a good reputation.

Try these stores in Canada.

No I don’t have a charger. That’s another reason I was hoping to be able to use the 18650’s from my two S2RII Batons.

I don’t understand anything about voltage or electricity in general.

Is there a reason Fenix and Nitecore batteries are like 3x the price of everything else?


Fenix and Nitecore have more costs involved and have to charge a higher price to make profit. You can ignore their batteries.

Pretty much everyone on this form that is actually enjoying flashlight has a battery charger or several battery chargers and just regular OEM type batteries.

I’m going to ask around see if I can find a good place for you to buy a couple basic batteries and basic charger.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW
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GNOMBEZ wrote:
So I’ve been doing some research on the Olight Warrior Mini and noticed a warning in its manual that says:

“Do not short-circuit the tail switch cap with the ring surrounding it. the short circuit in this case will result in an electrical discharge of below 3mA between them, and may lead to a complete battery drain if its in this state too long.”

Can anyone explain this in laymans terms to someone who understands nothing about electricity?
Will it just drain the battery and will need to be recharged?
Or will this damage the battery?

I don’t see this same warning in the manual for my Olight S2R II baton, but am wondering if it does have the same risk.

With both flashlights ends being a magnet, I would think your always at risk of making this contact just by sticking it to magnetic surfaces?
Or even just change in my pocket sticking to it.

Also, is there somewhere more appropriate to be asking this question?


Lithium ion batteries can be ruined if their voltage should ever drop below 2.5 volts. The chemical structure breaks down. So any type of small drain on the battery can be a concern. A 3mA drain on a fully charged 3,000mah battery would take over a month to drain down. So it’s not too big a concern as you might think. Just don’t leave it stuck to a bare metal object for several days.

When people test flashlights they always test them for parasitic drain. Most people also will give the battery caps a twist in order to break the connection and eliminate parasitic drain when they’re storing their flashlights. If you’re really concerned about it you can get a protected battery.

There’s a lot of trade-offs with protected cells, so if a protected cell will fit in your light and it’s reduced amperage is not an issue, you might consider getting a protected cell. It’s a battery with a little added on circuit that shuts off power if the battery voltage gets too high, too low or draws too much power/short circuits. Some might even shut off if the battery gets too hot.

Protected cells tend to cost a lot more, are longer than normal and have a maximum amperage output typically around 5A to 7A, but some are higher.

Since you need at least a 10A cell it means you need a protection circuit of at least 10A. There are very few choices. One a company in the US. They offer a 20A circuit on a good OEM high capacity cell. LG MJ1 Protected

Its fairly cheap, but you need to make sure your light can fit a 70mm long battery.

Another is this Imalent 3000mah cell with a 15A protection circuit for $20. It is also 70mm long.

I see Manker makes a 18650 cell with built in charging. You should ask them if it will fit the MC13 and if you can buy it separately.

Nitecore and Fenix do make some protected 18650 with built in charging and they are really expensive. Maybe these are what you were referring to earlier. The problem I see with these 2 brands is they don’t say how much current will trip the protection circuit. Is it 5A, 10A, 15A? I don’t know. If you can find out, they might be worth buying.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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GNOMBEZ
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JasonWW wrote:
GNOMBEZ wrote:
So I’ve been doing some research on the Olight Warrior Mini and noticed a warning in its manual that says:

“Do not short-circuit the tail switch cap with the ring surrounding it. the short circuit in this case will result in an electrical discharge of below 3mA between them, and may lead to a complete battery drain if its in this state too long.”

Can anyone explain this in laymans terms to someone who understands nothing about electricity?
Will it just drain the battery and will need to be recharged?
Or will this damage the battery?

I don’t see this same warning in the manual for my Olight S2R II baton, but am wondering if it does have the same risk.

With both flashlights ends being a magnet, I would think your always at risk of making this contact just by sticking it to magnetic surfaces?
Or even just change in my pocket sticking to it.

Also, is there somewhere more appropriate to be asking this question?


Lithium ion batteries can be ruined if their voltage should ever drop below 2.5 volts. The chemical structure breaks down. So any type of small drain on the battery can be a concern. A 3mA drain on a fully charged 3,000mah battery would take over a month to drain down. So it’s not too big a concern as you might think. Just don’t leave it stuck to a bare metal object for several days.

When people test flashlights they always test them for parasitic drain. Most people also will give the battery caps a twist in order to break the connection and eliminate parasitic drain when they’re storing their flashlights. If you’re really concerned about it you can get a protected battery.

There’s a lot of trade-offs with protected cells, so if a protected cell will fit in your light and it’s reduced amperage is not an issue, you might consider getting a protected cell. It’s a battery with a little added on circuit that shuts off power if the battery voltage gets too high, too low or draws too much power/short circuits. Some might even shut off if the battery gets too hot.

Protected cells tend to cost a lot more, are longer than normal and have a maximum amperage output typically around 5A to 7A, but some are higher.

Since you need at least a 10A cell it means you need a protection circuit of at least 10A. There are very few choices. One a company in the US. They offer a 20A circuit on a good OEM high capacity cell. LG MJ1 Protected

Its fairly cheap, but you need to make sure your light can fit a 70mm long battery.

Another is this Imalent 3000mah cell with a 15A protection circuit for $20. It is also 70mm long.

I see Manker makes a 18650 cell with built in charging. You should ask them if it will fit the MC13 and if you can buy it separately.

Nitecore and Fenix do make some protected 18650 with built in charging and they are really expensive. Maybe these are what you were referring to earlier. The problem I see with these 2 brands is they don’t say how much current will trip the protection circuit. Is it 5A, 10A, 15A? I don’t know. If you can find out, they might be worth buying.

Thanks for taking the time to type that all up to explain to me.

Its occurring to me that this might just be a little too advanced for me. I dont think i’m going to be able to understand a lot of what might need to be understood to own and operate these flashlights.

I just had my second OlightS2RBatonII crap out on me today..

JasonWW
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GNOMBEZ wrote:
Thank you for taking the time to type that all up to explain to me.
Its occurring to me that this is just too advanced for me and I am not going to be able to understand what’s needed to be understood to own and operate these flashlights. I just had my second Olight S2R baton II crap out on me today, so I think I’m just going to have to quit.
Later guys.

Olight has good warrantees. Contact them to get it fixed or replaced.

For people who are not into lights, like my family members, I usually get them a light like the Eagle Eye X2R and put a protected battery in it. It has a mechanical switch so when it’s off there is no drain on the battery. You plug a usb cable into the light to recharge. It’s pretty simple.

Sorry about the bad luck, having two S2R going out seems really unlucky.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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merlot
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What’s the maximum amount of current I could run through the FET in a BLF A6 driver? I’m building an S21A with triple LH351D LEDs powered by a high drain 21700 cell. If I’ve understood the relevant graphs, its likely to be drawing around 15A on full blast. Is this going to melt the driver?

Bardo219
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What does light look like below 2000k?

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