The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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Colonel Light
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Oli wrote:
they’re moving on to the 4680.

The 4680 looks large but maybe it could be an alternative to 4×18650 or 8×18650 torches/flashlights.

Skylight
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If I ran out of Attiny25 MCUs is it possible to use Bistro with clicky tailcap switch on an Attiny85?

slmjim
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Why do people chew applesauce?

 

slmjim

Great... Carnac the Magnificent tells me I just signed up for yet another expensive hobby.

Smile! It makes others wonder what you've been up to.

Robin Dobbie
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It’s just textury enough to trigger the chewing impulse, even though it could be technically “drank” like a beverage. Also, because it’s served with food that requires chewing like pancakes, waffles, and grilled cheese sammiches?

Scallywag
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Skylight wrote:
If I ran out of Attiny25 MCUs is it possible to use Bistro with clicky tailcap switch on an Attiny85?

It’s absolutely possible. You can’t go the other direction with some firmwares because the 13 and 25 have less flash than the 85 so for example anduril doesn’t fit.

I’m not sure what, if anything, you’d need to change, but I’m sure it can be done rather easily.

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Robin Dobbie
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Has it been long enough since anyone asked why this doesn’t work?

Lightbringer
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I don’t get it. That’s a whole i1R or whatever in there, no?

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raccoon city
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Robin Dobbie wrote:

Has it been long enough since anyone asked why this doesn't work?

That flashlight should charge.

Your charger must be broken.  :P

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It’s not gonna charge. The light’s backwards. The pointy end goes down, and the flat end against the slider.

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Robin Dobbie
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K I’ll tri that. First thing I done was set it up outside so the clear deal could catch some sun. I know the secrets of LEDs. But they musta shut that feature down since its still dead.

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It’s an Olight, that’s why it isn’t working

Robin Dobbie
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I thought olight was pretty reliable, just bad choice of emitters, over-priced, a cup and a half of spammy, with a dash of proprietary cells that they weren’t up-front about. But I hate to say it, considering one for a family member. O_O

Skylight
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Scallywag wrote:
Skylight wrote:
If I ran out of Attiny25 MCUs is it possible to use Bistro with clicky tailcap switch on an Attiny85?

It’s absolutely possible. You can’t go the other direction with some firmwares because the 13 and 25 have less flash than the 85 so for example anduril doesn’t fit.

I’m not sure what, if anything, you’d need to change, but I’m sure it can be done rather easily.

Thank you Scallywag. I will just try if it works.

MoreLumens
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MoreLumens wrote:
I got Sofirn C8F green for under 19 €‘s some time ago and thinking of modding it a bit. Got SS bezel coming which should fit it, but not sure what leds to get for it. I thought about sw45k’s, but would they work with this and how many lumens they would put out? I dont need max lumens, just to make it a really nice general use light. Anything else I could do with this? Swapping wires too? Being a C8-model there should be a wide variety of different drivers and other stuff too? Lighted tailcaps? Open for all kinds of ideas and every bit of help is appreciated, thanks.

So it looks like that SS bezel got lost in the mail so haven’t done anything yet.
However, I have new questions:
Does this SS bezel fit that Simon sells:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32814059028.html

What about these lighted switches:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32843122324.html

Skylight
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The Convoy SS bezel fits on the Sofirn C8F. These lighted switches will not fit as the switch PCB on the C8F is 23mm. I made a picture of the switch assembly in my review here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/68570

The Sw45k leds will have a nice tint but maybe only an estimated 1500-2000 lumens.

Recently I mounted three 6V 90CRI XHP50.2 with the Convoy M21C-U boost driver. Looks and works nicely. I will also put some Luxeon MZ leds in another C8F and see if I get a donut hole in the beam. However, these mods involve a bit of work.

I would not recommend XPL2 leds in the C8F because of the tint shift. The LH351D leds should be nice, they are quite rosy when dedomed.

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Good info. Thumbs Up Thanks.

Do you have any pics from that build? What kind of triple mcpcb did you use or modded to fit? Sounds something that I will consider.

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Has anyone done “6V XHP50.2 conversion” to Astrolux EC03? I been waiting 3V’s to come back stock, but those high cri 6V’s are pretty tempting.
I could try it for C8F or EC03, but not sure though.

What about slicing LH351D’s? Those are also tempting, but 5000k’s or 4000k’s, which one is nicer? How much slicing lowers tint? No other way to de-dome those?

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MoreLumens wrote:
Good info. Thumbs Up Thanks.

Do you have any pics from that build? What kind of triple mcpcb did you use or modded to fit? Sounds something that I will consider.

I will post some pictures in the ‘What did you mod today?’ thread. EDIT: Pictures I used three 16mm MCPCBs. They are not ideal as I needed to cut them smaller and the leds are difficult to center. The only shop that has a 5050 MCPCB for the C8F is Cutter but they have expensive shipping to Europe. I also filed the driver a little to fit. The retaing ring needed some filing as well to not touch the outer parts on the driver.

I also thought about the EC03 for this build but you will need a copper ring or a bigger board to adapt the 22mm driver to the bigger size.

If you would slice the LH351D the 5000K are better. They give around 4200K and a rosy tint. The 4000K LH351D tent to be green. Slicing is not difficult with the right spacer. There are no bond wires on the LH351D, just don’t slice too low or the led will turn blue. I once accidentally hot dedomed a led but it was messy and exposed part of the blue die.

Colonel Light
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Colonel Light wrote:
Rayoui wrote:
No, that is definitely not normal. I wonder if your driver wasn’t correctly flashed with the NoFET firmware.

The LEDs are already burned, I think I’ll send them an email.

!https://i.imgur.com/jAVfAc4.jpg!

Just wanted to follow up on the story. Hank usually responds to emails the same day. He asked if I could reflash the driver. I didn’t have the equipment or the know-how so he said he’d send a new head. That arrived just under a month ago, just before I went on a trip. In the meantime I tried scraping off the burned material. I tried to scrape off as little as I could but I scraped too far on the most burned LED. Blue light was emitting from a small area which I could not dismiss as just a change in colour temperature. I would have been better off leaving the LEDs as is. But maybe the experience gained was worth it as the replacement head did arrive after all.

I haven’t used my resurrected D4v2 a huge amount (less than 90 minutes) as it’s not the only torch in my collection and it is still summer. But it has decent lumens and the E21A LEDs make it compelling to use for the tint snobbery alone. However I am still afraid to use turbo mode after what happened last time. I did notice the replacement head had a board of a different colour (see below). At least we can confirm the regular D4v2 board WILL burn the phosphor of E21As very quickly. As Hank sent a whole head I have a spare regular bezel and clear optic. A bit of a different Emisar experience to what I expected but Hank was willing to offer customer service and replace defective product.


Replacement (white) board versus the original (red) one.

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Should I be worried about storing lights with their magnetic tails close to other lights drivers Question

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Colonel Light wrote:

However I am still afraid to use turbo mode after what happened last time. I did notice the replacement head had a board of a different colour (see below). At least we can confirm the regular D4v2 board WILL burn the phosphor of E21As very quickly. As Hank sent a whole head I have a spare regular bezel and clear optic.

It appears you have received the direct driver before with the E21A and that is why the LEDs burned, those 4pcs E21 cannot take direct drive.
This new driver should have the linear FET only working and have the direct drive FET disabled.

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hodor wrote:
Should I be worried about storing lights with their magnetic tails close to other lights drivers Question

No

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BurningPlayd0h
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hodor wrote:
Should I be worried about storing lights with their magnetic tails close to other lights drivers Question

Compasses and mechanical watches are two of the only things I can think of that you really want to keep magnets away from anymore (and even then I’ve yet to magnetize or noticeably affect a mech watch by carrying any of my lights that has a magnet).

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If I order a D4V2 with the KR4 driver how will that be different from the current D4V2 that I have?

Never mind, I have a better understanding now of what’s going on.

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Is there a positive and negative side on the Olight UC charger?

NO. No polarity

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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
hodor wrote:
Should I be worried about storing lights with their magnetic tails close to other lights drivers Question

Compasses and mechanical watches are two of the only things I can think of that you really want to keep magnets away from anymore (and even then I’ve yet to magnetize or noticeably affect a mech watch by carrying any of my lights that has a magnet).

Best to keep lights with magnets away from computers with hard disks as well. Sticking your light on the chassis of a computer like that is a no-no. Same principle as magnetically destroying data on floppy disks (or credit card strips!) back in the day.

SSDs (solid-state drives) and flash memory (like USB sticks and SD cards) are fine, though.

When it comes to flashlights, the one thing I can think of to watch is if you have a light with a magnetic control ring UI. My Sunwayman V20A behaves very strangely if another magnet gets too close to it. A powerful enough magnet could conceivably damage the little magnet in the control ring (and break the light) by permanently changing its direction of magnetisation.

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Yeah, the magnet on a light can bugger up a credit card strip. Happened to me. Forgot I had a magnet on the light, and put a card in the same pocket, which I normally never do.
I got to watch my wife vanish down the subway entrance, while I tried to get get my subway pass card to work. After a few days she noticed I was MIA.

Mechanical hard drives are pretty tough. Don’t think a flashlight on the chassis of a desktop would bother one. After all, they have way stronger magnets inside the HD than found on a flashlight.
Dead HDs are a great source of magnets to play with. I have a file cabinet side decorated with a few dozen.

Don’t think it would be a good idea to stick a magnet on a laptop over the drive area. That’s a little too close for comfort.
As Phlogiston said, solid state devices won’t be bothered.
All the Best,
Jeff

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jeff51 wrote:
Mechanical hard drives are pretty tough. Don’t think a flashlight on the chassis of a desktop would bother one. After all, they have way stronger magnets inside the HD than found on a flashlight.

It depends where you stick the flashlight. Most of the time, you’ll get away with it, because the magnetic field lines will pass through parts of the chassis metal without reaching the hard drive.

If you stick it to the hard drive rack inside the case, or to a chassis plate that comes in direct contact with that rack, then you’ll be pushing your luck, because the field path of least resistance may pass through the hard drive.

The magnets inside a hard drive are positioned very carefully and have metal elements near them to guide stray field lines away from the disk platters where the magnetised data bits are.

jeff51 wrote:
Dead HDs are a great source of magnets to play with. I have a file cabinet side decorated with a few dozen.

I must remember to salvage the magnets from my next dead hard drive Smile

I keep forgetting about the magnets and throwing them out!

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Phlogiston wrote:
jeff51 wrote:
Dead HDs are a great source of magnets to play with. I have a file cabinet side decorated with a few dozen.

I must remember to salvage the magnets from my next dead hard drive Smile

I keep forgetting about the magnets and throwing them out!


I’m also collecting the platters out of my dead spinners, for a future art project. Most of my hard drive magnets are on my fridge…

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Scallywag wrote:

I’m also collecting the platters out of my dead spinners, for a future art project. Most of my hard drive magnets are on my fridge…

What do these magnets look like?

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