The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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Correllux
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Rayoui wrote:
Go forth and turbo

lol. Words to live by!

Yeah, no worries for the emitter or the cell using it like that. We humans are soft, pink, and crunchy…it’s amazing that we can survive at all. Flashlights have exoskeletons and hearts of magma – they’re tougher than we are when it comes to heat and exertion.

Hard to imagine not having nice bright lights these days. Actually it’s hard to even imagine years ago when we got by with 20 lumens or less! We had a contractor in the office the other day and he pulled out one of those cheap angry-blue zoomies that hardly put out any useful light for what he was needing. I may have actually cringed. Didn’t have any decent lights around or I would have tried to convert him.

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Rayoui wrote:
That won’t cause any cell damage. In fact, that’s pretty conservative use. Go forth and turbo
CRC
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Correllux wrote:
Rayoui wrote:
Go forth and turbo

lol. Words to live by!

Yeah, no worries for the emitter or the cell using it like that. We humans are soft, pink, and crunchy…it’s amazing that we can survive at all. Flashlights have exoskeletons and hearts of magma – they’re tougher than we are when it comes to heat and exertion.

Hard to imagine not having nice bright lights these days. Actually it’s hard to even imagine years ago when we got by with 20 lumens or less! We had a contractor in the office the other day and he pulled out one of those cheap angry-blue zoomies that hardly put out any useful light for what he was needing. I may have actually cringed. Didn’t have any decent lights around or I would have tried to convert him.

I know what you mean.
I watch a lot of content from youtube channels like UnchartedX. (Exploration of ancient magalithic sites like the pyramids.)
Every time I see him or someone else using ‘walmart lights’, and throwers at point blank range, I want to scream!
I just want to somehow show these people what theyre missing.
I want to make them aware of the amazing flashlights that exist today.
Its extra frustrating when you know the person can really benifit from one!
In the case of these youtube channels, the viewers would then benefit as well.

story
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How do you enable the Jump Start for the D4V2 with 219B?

I have two D4V2 both are Anduril 2, 2021-08-13
One has the jump start enabled and one doesn’t.
The moon light comes on normally vs another second delay.

thebentern
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In terms of DIY/Moding, I have a single 16340 host that I plan on running at 1.5-2A with an LMR. What are the most efficient / high output LED options for running with a fixed current 7135 or buck board? I haven’t been keeping up with the latest series of emitters available, and the amount manufacturers and options seems overwhelming these days.

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In 3535 size, probably the LH351D, in 5050 I’d say XHP50.2 version 3V (or .3 but not available yet), then SST-40/SFT40.

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I need some 20350 battery. On Ali Express, I have found this “soft-wrapped” 20350 battery.

Can this be used in a flashlight?

It seems this size of battery is mostly for vaping; and so it is not available in countries where vaping is prohibited.

Can anyone guide me to the source of normal 20350 rechargeable battery?

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TermsakC wrote:

I need some 20350 battery. On Ali Express, I have found this “soft-wrapped” 20350 battery.

Can this be used in a flashlight?

It seems this size of battery is mostly for vaping; and so it is not available in countries where vaping is prohibited.

Can anyone guide me to the source of normal 20350 rechargeable battery?


It seems you might have better luck finding a good 18350 battery. There is not a big difference in capacity, if at all. You can make a simple spacer just in case it might rattle.

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Thanks Robin Debbie and Jason WW for your kind and quick responses.

I have found a convenient solution: I just try putting in a 18350 cell on my new Wurkkos TS21, instead of a 20350. And it works. No need to find the uncommon 20350 cell anymore. Can just use the common 18350 cell.

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Ive done a bit of searching and havent found anything yet, so figured id just ask here.

I just recently got two versions of the Convoy C8+. These are my first Convoys.

One has the CSLNM1 and the hot spot at close range has a mostly uniform hot spot that has a bit of a “flower?” shape, and im not sure if this is normal? Looks fine at long range.

My other C8+ has the green version of the CSLNM1 and has a pretty oblong hot spot and looks kinda odd even at medium range.

I cant seem to photograph the hot spots on my wall well enough to show it here.

Looking at the LED’s, they both appear to be perfectly center within their reflectors.

Wondering if this common/normal/ or if there’s a simple solution?

Thanks.

Edit: Upon closer inspection, it appears that the green emitter is possibly slightly off center.

In this photo, it looks like it is slightly off to the right.
Is this something I can fix?
Or is the LED itself soldered in place slightly off center? In which case, there is nothing I can do about it.

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I’d like to know also. I had always presumed Cainiao was the cheapest logistics transporter. Often they lose tracking somewhere over the Pacific. But on some occasions, they pulled through at record speed. And to add to the confusion, they are wholly owned and operated by AliExpress; much like AliExpress Shipping. Some kind of double standard?

Mind you I’m in Canada and the ePackets are piggybacked with the commercial (passenger) flights and these haven’t come back pre-pandemic. Often they linger about in some hub waiting for an available flight. I don’t think premium changes anything at that bottleneck. However, the premium does have tracking throughout and doesn’t get bounced around the various checkpoints/holding stations.

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@ CRC:

My CULPM1.TG has some characteristic flowering really close-up (say 2 inches). I always thought this normal with these Osrams being a small die within a larger substrate. My CSLPM1.TG is out of focus and doesn’t show any artifacts.

As for that green Osram, you could loosen the retaining screws on the MCPCB and try re-centering the LED.

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Sidney Stratton wrote:
@ CRC:
As for that green Osram, you could loosen the retaining screws on the MCPCB and try re-centering the LED.

I’m not sure that would do anything. The centering ring adjusts to the led, not the other way around. It looks like the centering ring is just a tiny bit larger than the led body. He could probably try loosening the bezel that presses down on the lens and reflector so that they are loose and then tap the light against his hand to make the reflector and centering ring shift slightly. Once it looks centered, tighten the bezel back down.

Generally speaking, perfect centering gets harder and harder as the led die gets smaller. Just tightening the bezel again could shift the centering a little bit. Its going to be trial and error to get it perfect. If the centering ring refuses to move over, then you might have an issue of the mcpcb pushed to the side limiting adjustment. In that case I’d do like Sydney says and loosen and screws and push the mcpcb back towards the middle. Then you go back to the first procedure using light taps to shift the reflector and tightening it down.

An explanation of the parts:

If you take the bezel off you’ll see the lens and an oring. Remember how they are arranged. Then the reflector is sitting on top of a smaller plastic piece called a centering ring. The reflector centers on that. Then the hole in the centering ring is supposed to center around the led. It looks like the hole is just a tiny bit too large in your light which allows it to not center perfectly every time.

The pressure of screwing down the bezel presses down on the glass, oring, reflector, centering ring and mcpcb. This pressure is what allows good heat transfer from the mcpcb to the flashlight head. The mcpcb might have one or two screws going through it. These are usually there only to prevent rotation. Tightening the bezel might rotate the reflector and it could cut the wires if the mcpcb were to rotate.

If you unscrew the bezel and remove the downward pressure the parts should be able to move around a little bit.

Here is a typical centering ring.
It’s also called led insulation gasket or a reflector spacer.

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@ Robin;

I hope it wasn’t a large difference in price between standard and premium.

Looking over the ETAs between the two, knocking a few days for often $4 + wasn’t justifiable (my experience). As for the ETAs changing from the purchase date and actual shipping order, logistics change and with the 11.11 yearly sale bonanza, volumes go way up. Perhaps they foresee some delays?

But this change from Cainiao to AliExpress Shipping furthers my thinking they are both the same and only on the merchant’s end there is some contractual difference.

Gotta play the patience game…

story
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Hey what’s the low voltage on the S2+ with 219B?
All 3 of mine are blinking like a beacon every four seconds when it drops to 3.1v
My S2+ CSLNM1.23 Red is also having this problem and it’s also another 3.1v battery.

This happens at 100% power and not at 35% , 20%, 1%

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Well, that’s a low-voltage warning. Can’t run at high current when below LED forward voltage (threshold).

Charge your batts…

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story wrote:
Hey what’s the low voltage on the S2+ with 219B?
All 3 of mine are blinking like a beacon every four seconds when it drops to 3.1v
My S2+ CSLNM1.23 Red is also having this problem and it’s also another 3.1v battery.

This happens at 100% power and not at 35%


The last line is the key. Voltage sags under load, so high power may be dropping the battery voltage below the threshold. Then, when you measure it unloaded, it reads higher.

I’m not sure of the cutoff but it’s typically around 2.8V ballpark for many drivers. Also, at lower voltages most batteries sag more than the same output at higher charge %

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Sidney Stratton wrote:
As for that green Osram, you could loosen the retaining screws on the MCPCB and try re-centering the LED.

Do you know if I would have to worry about the thermal paste at all? Im not sure if it hardens and would need to be re applied, or if it remains soft and I can just shift the MCPCB as needed?

JasonWW wrote:
Sidney Stratton wrote:
@ CRC:
As for that green Osram, you could loosen the retaining screws on the MCPCB and try re-centering the LED.

I’m not sure that would do anything. The centering ring adjusts to the led, not the other way around. It looks like the centering ring is just a tiny bit larger than the led body. He could probably try loosening the bezel that presses down on the lens and reflector so that they are loose and then tap the light against his hand to make the reflector and centering ring shift slightly. Once it looks centered, tighten the bezel back down.

Generally speaking, perfect centering gets harder and harder as the led die gets smaller. Just tightening the bezel again could shift the centering a little bit. Its going to be trial and error to get it perfect. If the centering ring refuses to move over, then you might have an issue of the mcpcb pushed to the side limiting adjustment. In that case I’d do like Sydney says and loosen and screws and push the mcpcb back towards the middle. Then you go back to the first procedure using light taps to shift the reflector and tightening it down.

An explanation of the parts:

If you take the bezel off you’ll see the lens and an oring. Remember how they are arranged. Then the reflector is sitting on top of a smaller plastic piece called a centering ring. The reflector centers on that. Then the hole in the centering ring is supposed to center around the led. It looks like the hole is just a tiny bit too large in your light which allows it to not center perfectly every time.

The pressure of screwing down the bezel presses down on the glass, oring, reflector, centering ring and mcpcb. This pressure is what allows good heat transfer from the mcpcb to the flashlight head. The mcpcb might have one or two screws going through it. These are usually there only to prevent rotation. Tightening the bezel might rotate the reflector and it could cut the wires if the mcpcb were to rotate.

If you unscrew the bezel and remove the downward pressure the parts should be able to move around a little bit.

Here is a typical centering ring.
It’s also called led insulation gasket or a reflector spacer.

So I did actually discover by accident that it is the bezel pressure that is causing my hot spot issue.

I had taken the bezel off to swap out the factory black o-rings with the green o-rings I had ordered along with the lights.

After re-assembly, I noticed the green lights hot spot had become almost perfect, and the white had become knocked badly out of wack.

Loosening the bezel with the light aimed at the ceiling I can see it corrects itself, but then the bezel is far too loose.

Tightening the bezel throws the hot spot out of wack again.

More importantly though, is that now one light doesnt operate properly anymore.

Its output is all sputtery and flickering.

Probably not from playing with the bezel, but from swapping the button switch and covers multiple times.

Im sure its all back together properly, but its messed up somehow…

Is there a common issue that causes these lights to have a sputtery/flickering output?

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@ CRC:

Without going into all the details of centering the LED (Jason does give a good method), I’ve found that those retaining screws retain against torsion. So I’ve always taken to loosen them up as to let the MCPCB “float” on the shelf. Then I can always push it a bit when the emitter doesn’t sit dead center. The taping in my palm is always helpful if the alignment is just so skewed. But yes, the thermal compound should be soft and gooey.

So as you experimented, tightening the bezel throws the focus out. Might have to shim so slightly the gasket, be it between the reflector, or between the star. Depends on what you have at hand. But, the ‘O’ ring may be just a tad too thick or not have the same sponginess as the original.

The last part about flickering; check if all connections are tight, the retaining ring is usually the culprit.

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The beam focus your describing sounds like the reflector is moving up and down in relation to the led. It should not be able to move like that. The centering ring is a fairly hard plastic and it sits solidly on the mcpcb and the reflector should sit solidly on top of it. To change the focus usually involves shimming the reflector higher or sanding the bottom of the centering ring to get the reflector lower.

I would look for anything around the centering ring not making it sit flat. Maybe there is a loose or shorted wire under the reflector. It definitely sounds odd.

I’ve never had bezel tightness effect the beam shape or focus. Unless the bezel is rotating the reflector and that is moving it left or right, off center. Maybe that is whats happening in your case?

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I really dont want to remove the reflector if I dont have to.
I dont want to allow dust inside or mess around with anything unnecessarily.
From what I understand, you really dont want to touch the reflector AT ALL, so I dont want to risk anything.

To replace the o-rings, I just removed the bezel and the oring was just siting on top of the glass.
With a finger, I held the glass in place as I peeled the o-ring off and then inserted the new o-ring into the inside groove of the bezel and re-installed it.
I made sure to not seperate the glass from the reflector to make sure no dust got inside. Dust still got inside…

The o-ring sits between the glass and bezel. The glass sits directly on top of the reflector.
Tightening the bezel rotates the glass which in turn rotates the reflector, which may have even been rotating the centering ring but im not fully sure of that.

Edit: Its only by the fact of the piece of dust on it that I can see that the reflector is being rotated.

I dont feel like I should have to shim anything on a brand new light.
All I did was change an o-ring that was mean to be a one for one swap.

I just decided to try cleaing all possible contact areas to see if this would fix the flickering issue, and I noticed that the drivers retaining ring (which I have not touched at all) is not holding the driver in place.
I tried tightening it only to discover that it is already as tight as possible, but still not holding the driver securely.

I have a video showing this below

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I removed the retaining ring to see what Icould see.
Not sure if what im seeing is normal though,
“Driver”(?) Is just kinda floating and wobbly.

Reinstalled the retaining ring and it still doesnt hold the driver securely.

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That driver looseness can be causing the flicker. It looks like that driver was made using a slightly thinner pcb and now the ring is not squishing it. You can add a thin layer of solder around the edge to add thickness or maybe make a shim about the size of a grain of rice from a soda can. Loosen the retaining ring, slide the shim under and tighten down. If the driver feels snug then you’re done. If it’s still moving around you may need to make a thicker shim by using a larger piece of aluminum from a can and doubling it over for double the thickness.

You can pop the reflector out, no problem. Just cover the lens with your hand and tilt it over and let it fall into your palm. Don’t touch the shiny side. The oil from your finger will be super visible. If you try to wipe it, it will smear and make it worse. So hold it on the outside.

For dust, you can blow it out, just don’t get any spit on it. Do a couple of practice blows to the side to get any moisture drops out of the way, then blow into the reflector. Or leave it as is. Dust doesn’t hurt anything, it just messes with you mentally if you have OCD. Lol.

The factory will try to use an existing centering ring if possible to reduce costs. Some will have a custom ring made for their particular model. Either way, a tiny difference in thickness can have a noticeable effect. The factory can not take the time to sand or shim each light by hand to get it perfect. So it’s usually “close enough”. Some lights might roll off the assembly line perfectly spaced, while others might be a tiny bit too high or low. Just like with any product.

This is all part of being a flashlight tweaker. Even when the beam looks perfect you might find that shimming the reflector up or sanding it down can further tighten up the beam.

In your case, I would definitely pop the reflector out just to make sure there’s nothing out of place around the centering ring. It’s possible the reflector might be pushing on one of the wires underneath it, or there might be a little piece of debris under the centering ring. You might also have a bit of flux residue that has gotten underneath the centering ring lifting up one side of it. You’re not going to know unless you take a look. I typically will pop out the reflector, lens and bezel all as one assembly to minimize the amount of dust that gets on the reflector.

To reassemble, you can hold the flashlight upside down and drop it onto that complete reflector/bezel assembly. Then flip it over and make sure that you see the centering ring drop down around the LED and it all looks good before you tighten the bezel backup. It should be a piece of cake.

PS, the lower two videos look private. They don’t show up.

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JasonWW wrote:
PS, the lower two videos look private. They don’t show up.
Videos should work now.

After discovering the loose “driver?” and that the retaining ring was as tight as it could be, I decided to fully take it out and put it back in, but no difference was made.
(See 15 second videos)

I just decided to open it up again to see about creating a shim, but decided that wasnt gonna work, and put it back together again.
This time it seems to have resolved.
The “driver?” is held snug in place now.

Doesnt seem to be flickering anymore.
The flickering wasnt exactly consistant or predictable though, so time will tell.

Not sure why the light worked perfectly fine for the first few nights with no flickering though.
I havent dropped it or done anything that could have caused that looseness.
I can only assume the “driver?” was loose like that the whole time.
The retaining ring was solid in place. I couldnt tighten it any further when I discovered it, and had to put a bit of muscle into it to loosen it.

I still dont feel comfortable removing the reflector though.
My apartment is incredibly dusty and I will ineveitably be inviting some dust inside the flashlight If I open it up.
Im just gonna accept the hot spot as is for now.
Ive made it a bit better by loosening the bezel slightly and tapping the side of the light, and re-tightening.

Unfortunatley there is one piece of dust that moves around inside. If its on the reflector its not visable in the beam.
But when it finds its way to the inside face of the glass, I see a black dot in the spill. At least on a white wall.

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With LEP lights becoming more common, I have to ask; What are the practical uses for a laser flashlight? OK, I can see they might be useful for night coyote hunters on the plains. Other than that?

Keep your nose in the wind and your eyes along the skyline.
Del Gue

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bushmaster wrote:
What are the practical uses for a laser flashlight?

“I got a LASER flashlight!!”

“Cooooooooool…”

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Robin Dobbie wrote:
If I want to buy only one size of 7018 rod, could I use 3/32” on .53”(3/64”) pipe as well as 1/8” flat bar?

This Vulcan brand says it’s good for up to 9/64 (10 gauge). 1/8=8/64. So it should work, but I don’t have much experience with stick welders, just MIG.

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Is the WTS section of BLF reserved for flashlights only? I ask because I have a pair of Sennheiser 6XX’s I’ve worn maybe 3 times. Cragslist seems dangerous, Facebook hides non-boosted listings, and Ebay wants too big a cut.

If it’s flashlights-only that’s fine, just checking.

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Collection: TN42, TN40S, Catapult V6, SP36 BLF, sc700d, sc64c LE, D4V2 CuZn, D4V2 CuTi, D4V2 Al x2, KR4 Al x2
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Wishlist: Acebeam K75, Zebralight sc600w mk IV plus, Convoy M3-C
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CollectEverything wrote:

Is the WTS section of BLF reserved for flashlights only? I ask because I have a pair of Sennheiser 6XX’s I’ve worn maybe 3 times. Cragslist seems dangerous, Facebook hides non-boosted listings, and Ebay wants too big a cut.

If it’s flashlights-only that’s fine, just checking.

You can try to sell anything that is legal in WTS.  :THUMBS-UP:

CollectEverything
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raccoon city wrote:

CollectEverything wrote:

Is the WTS section of BLF reserved for flashlights only? I ask because I have a pair of Sennheiser 6XX’s I’ve worn maybe 3 times. Cragslist seems dangerous, Facebook hides non-boosted listings, and Ebay wants too big a cut.


If it’s flashlights-only that’s fine, just checking.



You can try to sell anything that is legal in WTS.  alt=:" />


Cool thanks! Party

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Collection: TN42, TN40S, Catapult V6, SP36 BLF, sc700d, sc64c LE, D4V2 CuZn, D4V2 CuTi, D4V2 Al x2, KR4 Al x2
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Wishlist: Acebeam K75, Zebralight sc600w mk IV plus, Convoy M3-C
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