I also have an A6 I plan to install one of these in.

Off topic I know but quick question: Are there any good 5050 LED’s on the market besides the XM-L2? I have a light I want to upgrade the LED’s in but it uses a custom 4x XM-L2 mcpcb that I could not easily replace. I would prefer not use xm-L2’s.

SST-40 mostly.

Or maybe Luxeon V if you want to buy MCPCBs from Led4Power, since it is in the 4040 footprint.

Both are excellent 3V 5050 LEDs

BlueSwordM wrote:

SST-40 mostly. Or maybe Luxeon V if you want to buy MCPCBs from Led4Power, since it is in the 4040 footprint. Both are excellent 3V 5050 LEDs

Luxeon V is 4040 LED.

recieved your led today

will reflow them on weekend.

kaaaaaachinggggggggggggggg

Just installed 3x LH351Ds in my C8F from the last batch and shipments. They look too  cold, I knew it at first sight. I've compared the beam against a 30° TIR equipped S2+ using a known good LH351D 4000K CRI90+ from the first set of shipments, I must have received 5000K CRI70+ emitters. 

Could you please confirm if possible, AEDe? Thanks.

After a quick glance at 'em they look pretty similar. Will take a shot or two out of their strip packages later. Optics from the above flashlights are completely different, thus the comparison isn't fair. Colors look good but I don't have a known low CRI emitter flashlight at hand now. Got me alarmed, though.

Will have to wait a bit for now, thanks.

Cheers

Put them under UV light, like 365nm and they’ll show you if they’re a difference :

No need for photos, they're definitively orange. In fact just noticed the only unused and not orange looking emitter I have in my cardboard cache emitter box is one of those 5000K CRI90+ XP-G3s (1 out of 46).

The second batch is an L6 chromaticity bin, ≈125K cooler than the first (L7). I am impressed by how much a reflector can influence the final perceived tint, beam corona looks yellowish while hotspot and spill are a noticeably cooler white. 

Thanks all for the input.

Hence the dreaded “fried egg” beam…

Yellower center/hotspot, bluer outside/spill.

Okay, now I want some fried eggs…

Well, sort of Lightbringer. The hotspot is sort of yellow, the corona is yellower and the spill is of a cooler temperature.

Yeah, I got a bunch of lights where the corona is lemon-yellow while the hotspot is also yellowish but not nearly as much, and the spill is blue-white.

The LH351D certainly doesn’t like larger SMO reflectors.

Mine arrived today

How does the tint on the new batch compare with the old? Is it greener or less green? The tint batch is supposed to be below the BBL?

Anyone have an idea or guess how the Vf of the 351D 4000K 90CRI emitter compares to the Vf of the 219CT 5000K 90CRI emitter?  I put 2 of the Samsung and 2 of the Nichias (from a D4) in a Q8 and visa versa.  My impression is that output decreased a little in the D4, but tint, CRI, and throw improved. I don't want to push the Q8 too hard due to the 3 additional cells.  I did turbo a bit and detected on no blue tint warning of overheating.  I'm not a good judge of output, tint, and CRI by eye though.  I'm assuming the CRI didn't actually increase, but it appeared like it did to my eye.

I really like the combo tint and CRI wise, but I don't want to fry one set of emitters due to significantly lower Vf.  I really need to setup a heat sink with light tube and test each emitter, but I'm hoping someone in the know already knows.

EDIT: Clarified wording.

EDIT2: Caught typo (strike out above).  Sorry for all the edit's folks.

Mine arrived yesterday, forgot to check the mail Thanks!

I put 4 of the new batch in my D4…and I don’t like them
I see a green hue in the color. It’s a shame because the beam is way smoother than with 219C, there’s no artifact.
What’s strange is, I put another one in my Sofirn SP32A and the color is as nice as the old batch…
Could it be the AR glass ? Or the TIR ?

Well that’s simple to correct with a minus green filter.

maukka wrote:

Well that’s simple to correct with a minus green filter.

What filter would you recommend for the job?

I keep meaning to order one of those kits but never seem to have the money when I am thinking about it and don’t think about it when I have some money lol

Depending on the severity of the green tint, which isn’t horrible with the LH351D, I’d say a Lee Zircon 804 is probably a good bet. If you want to make sure it lands on the rosy side, pick the 803 which usually fixes the XP-G3+d-c-fix combo very well. 802 is probably overkill.

maukka wrote:

Depending on the severity of the green tint, which isn’t horrible with the LH351D, I’d say a Lee Zircon 804 is probably a good bet. If you want to make sure it lands on the rosy side, pick the 803 which usually fixes the XP-G3+d-c-fix combo very well. 802 is probably overkill.

Thanks! I am thinking I will buy a sheet of 803, 804 and 805. The output loss sucks but at least it could make otherwise unusable lights look good.

Would you say these are the best sheets to get if I can only get 2 or 3?

That’s what I got. The 805 is very subtle though. I wouldn’t probably even fix something that only requires so little shifting. I’d probably go for the 802 instead for the extreme cases of green.

maukka wrote:

That’s what I got. The 805 is very subtle though. I wouldn’t probably even fix something that only requires so little shifting. I’d probably go for the 802 instead for the extreme cases of green.

Great, thanks for the tip.

I could probably say the output of my now LH351D modified C8F is subtly/very subtly greenish in the low modes, something which vanishes as you up the driving current. You must be very picky.

Cheers

Barkuti wrote:

I could probably say the output of my now LH351D modified C8F is subtly/very subtly greenish in the low modes, something which vanishes as you up the driving current. You must be very picky.

 

Cheers

Texas_Ace wrote:

… The output loss sucks but at least it could make otherwise unusable lights look good.
…

At times I've thought the lower CRI emitters “exploit a sort of cheat” with the lumen output, because our eyes, brains and minds are more or less sensitive depending on light frequency:

Light Measurement @ TutorVista.com

Thus, output from lower CRI emitters may seem to dazzle or blind more because they're using more power output in the light frequencies we're more sensitive to. But their light is a cheat that does not abide well to the spectral power distribution profiles of the sun/blackbody radiator, something which can be felt. 

Cheers

Yes, I agree, the low CRI emitters are much more harsh to the eyes.

Barkuti wrote:

I could probably say the output of my now LH351D modified C8F is subtly/very subtly greenish in the low modes, something which vanishes as you up the driving current. You must be very picky.

 

Cheers

I haven’t tried the new batch yet. But I bought a noctigon M43 mcpcb with the 4000k LH351D 90cri from kiriba-ru and thought it looked acceptable until I compared it with my 5D tinted flashlights, which is when I realize how yellow the tint is on the LH351D. Even white objects become yellowish with the LH351D, whereas my 5D tint and my 219B 4000k 9050 flashlights render white as white. The yellow is so bad that I find my 5D 70cri Cree XHP HI and XPG2 lights render colors better and more natural than the 90cri LH351D. I guess a LEE filter can fix it but that takes away 17% or more lumens and the LH351D is already not efficient compared to the XP-L HI. The LH351D M43 measured 4310 lumens whereas the XP-L HI 4000k 5D measured 5,172 lumens at turn on. Surprisingly the XP-G2 5D version measures 6000 lumens. These are after Maukka ANSI calibration. The LH351D is probably still brighter than 219c version though, which I don’t have for comparison.