Legally your not supposed to. You lose the warranty as well. That’s the only reasons I can think of.
legally I can also set them back to original non A version, but why is it they sell me the hardware with locked features
unlocking cost 70-80% of the PSU?
So is it legal you reflash the firmware on a driver?
its just a few bits in a a code line that make A version or non A version, no hardware or special calibration
the calibrated PSU costs another 300€ more
I don’t know anything about it, but if it comes with any kind of user agreement, then that could be the basis for the “legally” that Jason mentions. Other than that, it’s just a loss of warranty, since they “legally” don’t have to honor a warranty on a modified piece of hardware. I say go ahead and do it, as long as you are willing to take the risk.
EDIT: I just want to add that people have been fighting this kind of “anti-feature” design for a long time with technology, including Microsoft Windows, Canon digital cameras, Apple iPhones, even Android phones (supposedly open source software). Those are just some of the examples off the top of my head, but it seems to me that the more expensive the technology is, the more likely that the manufacturer will install “anti-features” so you have to pay even more money to get full functionality.
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Legally it’s complex and depends on jurisdiction. Manufacturers often want buyers to be licensors rather than owners. Some countries push back more some push back less.
What he does with what he bought is not the company’s business.
Yes, if he has to do a warranty claim, he’ll have problems.
He can just flash back the software if needed.
There’s what’s legal, and what shouldn’t be illegal.
the thing is both firmwares are identical, the hack changes only in a file DP811 to DP811A,
so its one byte of data changed which makes the difference from a limited to unlimited features supply
It is my property if I want I can throw it out of my window and beat it to a pile of scrap with a 4 pound hammer,
guess trying to claim warranty successful is kind of hard if I do so
why is it they sell me the hardware with locked features
unlocking cost 70-80% of the PSU?
its just a few bits in a a code line that make A version or non A version, no hardware or special calibration
the calibrated PSU costs another 300€ more
The reason they sell the cheaper model with all the same hardware is because it saves the company money. One item comes off the assembly line and they can make it either version depending on their needs.
The difference in price based on software features allows the company to offer 2 models to fit different people’s needs. If you don’t need all the features, you can buy the software limited version. The company makes a smaller profit on it, but they might make up for it in volume. They probably sell more of the cheaper ones than they do the more expensive ones.
It’s about product differentiation. If they did not offer the cheaper one their competitors will and they will lose money.
Lexel wrote:
So is it legal you reflash the firmware on a driver?
What driver is sold as having features turned off that you have to pay more to get turned on? I have never seen such drivers.
Some UI’s are illegal to flash such as Guppydrv. If you tried to sell drivers with it and you did not pay the fees to use it, you could be sued by the creator.
All of this gets into the digital copyrights act.
It is one thing to violate these clauses on your own personal equipment as it is hard to prove anything. It is another story if you buy a bunch of the DP832, convert it to the DP832A and then try to sell them for a profit.
Personally, I would not admit to any kind of illegal activity on a public forum. It could be fine or it might come back to bite you in the rear.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
The reason they sell the cheaper model with all the same hardware is because it saves the company money. One item comes off the assembly line and they can make it either version depending on their needs.
The difference in price based on software features allows the company to offer 2 models to fit different people’s needs. If you don’t need all the features, you can buy the software limited version. The company makes a smaller profit on it, but they might make up for it in volume. They probably sell more of the cheaper ones than they do the more expensive ones.
It’s about product differentiation. If they did not offer the cheaper one their competitors will and they will lose money.
They will still make a good profit on the non A models
Its just ripp off to get a good profit with having minimum costs
for example they limit bandwith like on the function generator
for example the 20MHz DG1022Z costs about 400€ the DG1062Z costs 715€, same story only a byte is set different to enable 3 times more frequency
I dont even bothered to mess with this as I dont need that fast and luckyly also the small one got same poiunt count
for example Siglent dont do this they sell you a full featured scope for 400€,
while the limited Rigol costs also 400€ and it costs you another 250€ to upgrade to get the same features like bandwith and point storage
Another example of this – Alcatel Lucent selling POE switches with 10gbit uplinks and limiting them to 1gbit to sell a license to unlock. Just went through that at work.
Now lets talk about a totally legal hack to make my Fluke 8845A use a PTC to show temperature, offical only supported in the 8846A
but with the maths functions you can do offset and multiplier to show the temperature reading in the kOhms range
Also build me for 5$ a probe instead paying 500$ for a way too big Fluke probe
They will still make a good profit on the non A models
It’s just a rip off to get a good profit with having minimum costs.
Both of these are just your opinion. I’m sure Rigols opinion is different than yours. Since Rigol makes the product and sets the prices, their opinion is what matters.
If they see a rise in the lower model sales and a drop in the higher model sales they might figure out people are just hacking the lower models so then they might go to the trouble of leaving certain hardware pieces out of the lower models. Time will tell. Hack while you can.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
They will still make a good profit on the non A models
It’s just a rip off to get a good profit with having minimum costs.
Both of these are just your opinion. I’m sure Rigols opinion is different than yours. Since Rigol makes the product and sets the prices, their opinion is what matters.
If they see a rise in the lower model sales and a drop in the higher model sales they might figure out people are just hacking the lower models so then they might go to the trouble of leaving certain hardware pieces out of the lower models. Time will tell. Hack while you can.
Yeah, but the point is that if they are able to sell it at the lower price for a profit, with no hardware or firmware changes, then the top price model is over-priced. There’s actually a good business reason to do that. Some people are not happy unless they spend a lot on a product. They will buy the over-priced stuff because to them, it is not over-priced. Even if you told those people that the only difference is the “A” being included on the end of the name, and showed them how it worked, they wouldn’t believe you. They would swear that the “A” model is objectively better in some way. This is a confirmed psychological effect. Some companies choose to make money off of this effect. In a way, they’re meeting a very real “need” for those people.
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Yeah, but the point is that if they are able to sell it at the lower price for a profit, with no hardware or firmware changes, then the top price model is over-priced. There’s actually a good business reason to do that. Some people are not happy unless they spend a lot on a product. They will buy the over-priced stuff because to them, it is not over-priced. Even if you told those people that the only difference is the “A” being included on the end of the name, and showed them how it worked, they wouldn’t believe you. They would swear that the “A” model is objectively better in some way. This is a confirmed psychological effect. Some companies choose to make money off of this effect. In a way, they’re meeting a very real “need” for those people.
I can tell you one absolutely fantastic feature the A has
Its screen is actually not anymore monocromatic, wow colorful display
anyway I will also break the warranty label on the 832 installing a 92mm silent fan with maglev bearing instead the noisy original 80mm fan
a little bit more airflow at at about 14dB less noise
same with the DG1022Z, way too noisy fan
Well, there you go! It’s worth the extra $$$ for that color screen! /s
and actually I liked the monocromatic more, as it also used a different 7 element digits and was better to read
I think a monochromatic screen is best for text. The old amber (or green) computer monitors were very readable. I’d still say that would be best for any text-only output. But the world has grown accustomed to “full-color” displays, even in places where it doesn’t make sense!
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Since I got a D4SV2 I’m a big fan of Andruil with 1634 and RGBLEDs.
Do you have any plans to migrate some of your drivers to that architecture eventually?
Legally your not supposed to. You lose the warranty as well. That’s the only reasons I can think of.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
legally I can also set them back to original non A version, but why is it they sell me the hardware with locked features
unlocking cost 70-80% of the PSU?
So is it legal you reflash the firmware on a driver?
its just a few bits in a a code line that make A version or non A version, no hardware or special calibration
the calibrated PSU costs another 300€ more
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I don’t know anything about it, but if it comes with any kind of user agreement, then that could be the basis for the “legally” that Jason mentions. Other than that, it’s just a loss of warranty, since they “legally” don’t have to honor a warranty on a modified piece of hardware. I say go ahead and do it, as long as you are willing to take the risk.
EDIT: I just want to add that people have been fighting this kind of “anti-feature” design for a long time with technology, including Microsoft Windows, Canon digital cameras, Apple iPhones, even Android phones (supposedly open source software). Those are just some of the examples off the top of my head, but it seems to me that the more expensive the technology is, the more likely that the manufacturer will install “anti-features” so you have to pay even more money to get full functionality.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Legally it’s complex and depends on jurisdiction. Manufacturers often want buyers to be licensors rather than owners. Some countries push back more some push back less.
They do it with lots of electronics. My to modify a Fluke 177 to a Fluke 179 takes 15min. It’s a lot cheaper! Well done Lexel!
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
I mean, Lexel is an individual, not a company.
What he does with what he bought is not the company’s business.
Yes, if he has to do a warranty claim, he’ll have problems.
He can just flash back the software if needed.
There’s what’s legal, and what shouldn’t be illegal.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
the thing is both firmwares are identical, the hack changes only in a file DP811 to DP811A,
so its one byte of data changed which makes the difference from a limited to unlimited features supply
It is my property if I want I can throw it out of my window and beat it to a pile of scrap with a 4 pound hammer,
guess trying to claim warranty successful is kind of hard if I do so
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Huh, wait, there’s no different firmware that you had to install? Just a different pointer address to the name of the machine?
Haha.
And yeah. What you buy belongs to you.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
The reason they sell the cheaper model with all the same hardware is because it saves the company money. One item comes off the assembly line and they can make it either version depending on their needs.
The difference in price based on software features allows the company to offer 2 models to fit different people’s needs. If you don’t need all the features, you can buy the software limited version. The company makes a smaller profit on it, but they might make up for it in volume. They probably sell more of the cheaper ones than they do the more expensive ones.
It’s about product differentiation. If they did not offer the cheaper one their competitors will and they will lose money.
What driver is sold as having features turned off that you have to pay more to get turned on? I have never seen such drivers.
Some UI’s are illegal to flash such as Guppydrv. If you tried to sell drivers with it and you did not pay the fees to use it, you could be sued by the creator.
All of this gets into the digital copyrights act.
It is one thing to violate these clauses on your own personal equipment as it is hard to prove anything. It is another story if you buy a bunch of the DP832, convert it to the DP832A and then try to sell them for a profit.
Personally, I would not admit to any kind of illegal activity on a public forum. It could be fine or it might come back to bite you in the rear.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
They will still make a good profit on the non A models
Its just ripp off to get a good profit with having minimum costs
for example they limit bandwith like on the function generator
for example the 20MHz DG1022Z costs about 400€ the DG1062Z costs 715€, same story only a byte is set different to enable 3 times more frequency
I dont even bothered to mess with this as I dont need that fast and luckyly also the small one got same poiunt count
for example Siglent dont do this they sell you a full featured scope for 400€,
while the limited Rigol costs also 400€ and it costs you another 250€ to upgrade to get the same features like bandwith and point storage
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Another example of this – Alcatel Lucent selling POE switches with 10gbit uplinks and limiting them to 1gbit to sell a license to unlock. Just went through that at work.
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
Now lets talk about a totally legal hack to make my Fluke 8845A use a PTC to show temperature, offical only supported in the 8846A
but with the maths functions you can do offset and multiplier to show the temperature reading in the kOhms range
Also build me for 5$ a probe instead paying 500$ for a way too big Fluke probe
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Both of these are just your opinion. I’m sure Rigols opinion is different than yours. Since Rigol makes the product and sets the prices, their opinion is what matters.
If they see a rise in the lower model sales and a drop in the higher model sales they might figure out people are just hacking the lower models so then they might go to the trouble of leaving certain hardware pieces out of the lower models. Time will tell. Hack while you can.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yeah, but the point is that if they are able to sell it at the lower price for a profit, with no hardware or firmware changes, then the top price model is over-priced. There’s actually a good business reason to do that. Some people are not happy unless they spend a lot on a product. They will buy the over-priced stuff because to them, it is not over-priced. Even if you told those people that the only difference is the “A” being included on the end of the name, and showed them how it worked, they wouldn’t believe you. They would swear that the “A” model is objectively better in some way. This is a confirmed psychological effect. Some companies choose to make money off of this effect. In a way, they’re meeting a very real “need” for those people.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
I can tell you one absolutely fantastic feature the A has
Its screen is actually not anymore monocromatic, wow colorful display
anyway I will also break the warranty label on the 832 installing a 92mm silent fan with maglev bearing instead the noisy original 80mm fan
a little bit more airflow at at about 14dB less noise
same with the DG1022Z, way too noisy fan
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Well, there you go! It’s worth the extra $$$ for that color screen! /s
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
and actually I liked the monocromatic more, as it also used a different 7 element digits and was better to read
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I think a monochromatic screen is best for text. The old amber (or green) computer monitors were very readable. I’d still say that would be best for any text-only output. But the world has grown accustomed to “full-color” displays, even in places where it doesn’t make sense!
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
On the 811A I can not even change the color of the digits what was possible in the 811 one
so they made the more expensive version worse
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Since I got a D4SV2 I’m a big fan of Andruil with 1634 and RGB LEDs.
Do you have any plans to migrate some of your drivers to that architecture eventually?
some new ones
Acebeam X45 the latest gen with programming port
21mm replacing all previous ones
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
What are the features of this 21mm driver of yours? What software is compatible?
its now combined 1/2S
2S without AMCs using small FET and up to 4 13 Ohm resistors
Programming pads for firmware update from battery side with flash key
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Is there a demand for X45 drivers?
Maybe the stock drivers tend to go bad due to a flaw or something?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
BLF Firmware
a bit more Output 13.3V 15A
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Do your drivers include necessary software? Why are there no feature descriptions for your drivers? Are the pictures expected to tell the story?
This is just one of more driver related topics
I have plenty of information in the other topics, this one should list just an overview for current models
I have also a complete topic with guide for the 2 mostly used firmware, of course firmware got their own Topics especially from Toykeeper
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Try this thread. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67843
Software is installed and tested.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Ok thanks.
See edited post above. That’s the order thread.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
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