I see no problem modding one Buck side to be on another channel for tint ramping
for moonlight and low levels there would be a shared PWM pin putting the Bucks synchronous into a lower output
the more challenge is to look into Andurils Tint ramp code to add the Buck PWM channel to the existing 2 channel tint mixing
So this would require hardware modification of your driver ? + anduril modification to support tint ramping. Would you be able to provide this to sell ? Or will I need to mod the firmware myself ? (Not sure I am capable, I am big noob in that regard).
Also this driver is only compatible with the mf01, not mf01s right ?, is this due to body difference (driver cavity depth ?), cell carier modability or something else ?
I don’t have the flashlight so I’m checking if this is viable to decide to buy it or not.
I see no problem modding one Buck side to be on another channel for tint ramping
for moonlight and low levels there would be a shared PWM pin putting the Bucks synchronous into a lower output
the more challenge is to look into Andurils Tint ramp code to add the Buck PWM channel to the existing 2 channel tint mixing
So this would require hardware modification of your driver ? + anduril modification to support tint ramping. Would you be able to provide this to sell ? Or will I need to mod the firmware myself ? (Not sure I am capable, I am big noob in that regard).
Also this driver is only compatible with the mf01, not mf01s right ?, is this due to body difference (driver cavity depth ?), cell carier modability or something else ?
I don’t have the flashlight so I’m checking if this is viable to decide to buy it or not.
driver is quite easy removing one trace and wire it separately from the input resistor
looking at the lantern Anduril config file it seems it uses only one ramp register and rest is done with separate tint mixing code
so replacing that should be possible but has to be tested
Lexel, the 12mm drivers are populated single sided or double sided?
Also, they work with both Anduril and Bistro UI?
Thanks in advance!
bottom side has a cap and 2 resistors but it plays no role if used with a spring or button
Thanks for your reply Lexel!
If it works, I will use the driver in a sort of “piggy back” way, incorporated in the structure of this driver:
It will be connected to the PCB and to the switch it has there. For your explanation, could I use it without those 3 pieces on the bottom side in this configuration? I am concerned about the small space I have to fit the driver on that hole…
Lexel, the 12mm drivers are populated single sided or double sided?
Also, they work with both Anduril and Bistro UI?
Thanks in advance!
bottom side has a cap and 2 resistors but it plays no role if used with a spring or button
Thanks for your reply Lexel!
If it works, I will use the driver in a sort of “piggy back” way, incorporated in the structure of this driver:
It will be connected to the PCB and to the switch it has there. For your explanation, could I use it without those 3 pieces on the bottom side in this configuration? I am concerned about the small space I have to fit the driver on that hole…
AMCs are even thicker than those components, if you are concerned about total battery length then use no button and solder just a wire in the hole
Hey Lexel, i made payment 23rd May and last mth 16 Jun you said you should have them out soon. It’s been another month, and been messaging you past 2 weeks with no reply. Can you let me know what is going on?
I want to upgrade my L6. Will your 30mm buck driver work with 3 LifePO4 batteries (9.9V)? Additionally, is it current regulated? Can it be pushed to 9 amps?
I wonder if anyone can help me identify two Lexel drivers.
I ordered one for a ThruNite TN42 and one for a ThruNite TN40S, and I’ve managed to get them mixed up.
My TN42 is a single XHP35 HI emitter. My TN40S is four X-PL HI emitters.
I ordered these drivers several months apart, and they are slightly different in physical layout. They each have some unpopulated components.
I am not very knowledgeable in driver design. One obvious difference I can see is the values of resistors 8, 9, 10, and 11 on the non-spring sides. Perhaps that’s an easy clue?
I am currently out of town and have no DMM, clamp meter, or power supply. Can anyone tell which is which solely by physical differences?
I was just going off the description in the first post; my understanding is that the TN42 was always XHP35, so yep the white driver for boost – but my reading off what Lexel has written is that the black one is for the TN42, or a TN40S that has been modified to run XHP35s.
But you’re right – for a definitive answer, only Lexel can really answer.
3.3uH is always a larger current -> same ripple voltage for regulation
10uH 2.5A, 3.3 4-7A, 2.2uH 7-8A
Resistor values the same the smaller the combined resistor is the higher the current has to be for same voltage drop
left driver 47mOhms*4.5A=214mV
right 90mOhms*2.5A=230mV
Thanks again to everyone trying to help identify my drivers.
Lexel messaged me and said the white one is for the TN42 (single XHP35) and the black one is for the TN40S (four XP-L HI).
I’m hoping to tackle the swaps this weekend. Both lights will need their battery carriers modified as well. I’m very excited to have Andúril in these two ThruNites.
I have Endermans 2nd Syniosbeam with your CFT-90, 48 amp driver. I’d like to know the allowable maximum and minimum input Voltages. Instead of powering it with the current 3S LiIon internal and external packs, I’d like to power it with either a 3S or 4S LiFeP04 pack. my LiFeP04 cells are charged to 3.55 and always settle after charging to about 3.47 or about 13.88 pack Voltage. Is this within the allowable range? I’d guess a 3S pack might be too low – 10.41 down to 9.3 pack Voltage.
I’m looking for a couple of 22mm drivers for a M21C to drive a sbt90.2. Please let me know if and how I can purchase some?
.
You need to PM him for orders.
He may not check this thread often.
—
Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.
Necessity is the mother of invention and the father is creativity.
Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.
LM3409 basically changes switching frequency if input voltage changes, the driver is defigned for LiIon voltage sag
Making higher voltage with less voltage sag batteries is no good idea
So this would require hardware modification of your driver ? + anduril modification to support tint ramping. Would you be able to provide this to sell ? Or will I need to mod the firmware myself ? (Not sure I am capable, I am big noob in that regard).
Also this driver is only compatible with the mf01, not mf01s right ?, is this due to body difference (driver cavity depth ?), cell carier modability or something else ?
I don’t have the flashlight so I’m checking if this is viable to decide to buy it or not.
driver is quite easy removing one trace and wire it separately from the input resistor
looking at the lantern Anduril config file it seems it uses only one ramp register and rest is done with separate tint mixing code
so replacing that should be possible but has to be tested
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Ok, I just ordered the mf01 so I’ll PM you when I received it, thanks.
Lexel, the 12mm drivers are populated single sided or double sided?
Also, they work with both Anduril and Bistro UI?
Thanks in advance!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
bottom side has a cap and 2 resistors but it plays no role if used with a spring or button
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Lexel, what is the MOSFET in 12mm drivers?
Thanks for your reply Lexel!
If it works, I will use the driver in a sort of “piggy back” way, incorporated in the structure of this driver:
It will be connected to the PCB and to the switch it has there. For your explanation, could I use it without those 3 pieces on the bottom side in this configuration? I am concerned about the small space I have to fit the driver on that hole…
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
LFPAK33
Nexperia PSMN2R4
AMCs are even thicker than those components, if you are concerned about total battery length then use no button and solder just a wire in the hole
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I see, thx for the info.
24mm 2-4S buck driver
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
20-25mm 1S/2S special order with smaller component boundary
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Hey Lexel, i made payment 23rd May and last mth 16 Jun you said you should have them out soon. It’s been another month, and been messaging you past 2 weeks with no reply. Can you let me know what is going on?
Lexel,
I want to upgrade my L6. Will your 30mm buck driver work with 3 LifePO4 batteries (9.9V)? Additionally, is it current regulated? Can it be pushed to 9 amps?
I wonder if anyone can help me identify two Lexel drivers.
I ordered one for a ThruNite TN42 and one for a ThruNite TN40S, and I’ve managed to get them mixed up.
My TN42 is a single XHP35 HI emitter. My TN40S is four X-PL HI emitters.
I ordered these drivers several months apart, and they are slightly different in physical layout. They each have some unpopulated components.
I am not very knowledgeable in driver design. One obvious difference I can see is the values of resistors 8, 9, 10, and 11 on the non-spring sides. Perhaps that’s an easy clue?
I am currently out of town and have no DMM, clamp meter, or power supply. Can anyone tell which is which solely by physical differences?
Click the photos for a larger view.
The one on the left can do up to 8A: https://i.imgur.com/AX3spfp.jpg
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
What differences are you seeing?
IDK, you might need Lexel to answer.
Are they both 12v
boostdrivers?Probably Buck drivers.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I’m basing it off the resistor bank above the… can never remember what it’s called.
Circled in these images: https://imgur.com/a/WwFuQIk
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
So your saying the R51, R100, R100 combo coresponds to it being an 8A driver meaning it’s the one for the xpl’s.
The other driver with the R51, R330, R330, R330 combo corresponds to it being a 2.5A driver so that’s the one for the xhp35?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I was just going off the description in the first post; my understanding is that the TN42 was always XHP35, so yep the white driver for boost – but my reading off what Lexel has written is that the black one is for the TN42, or a TN40S that has been modified to run XHP35s.
But you’re right – for a definitive answer, only Lexel can really answer.
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
Thanks for the replies!
Ideally, I’d do some bench testing, but as I mentioned I’m currently away from my tools.
I’ll wait for a definitive answer before proceeding. Thanks again!
I found a picture of a high amperage buck driver Lexel made and its using the same 3.3uH inductor. http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1662074#comment-1662074
So maybe he uses the 100uH for the lower amperage drivers? (Correct)
The sense resistor bank is very similar between those two drivers with 0.025 and 0.035. So I don’t think thats a good indicator of which is which.
That’s all i can find. Nothing conclusive.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
3.3uH is always a larger current -> same ripple voltage for regulation
10uH 2.5A, 3.3 4-7A, 2.2uH 7-8A
Resistor values the same the smaller the combined resistor is the higher the current has to be for same voltage drop
left driver 47mOhms*4.5A=214mV
right 90mOhms*2.5A=230mV
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Thanks again to everyone trying to help identify my drivers.
Lexel messaged me and said the white one is for the TN42 (single XHP35) and the black one is for the TN40S (four XP-L HI).
I’m hoping to tackle the swaps this weekend. Both lights will need their battery carriers modified as well. I’m very excited to have Andúril in these two ThruNites.
Thanks again, Lexel!
I have Endermans 2nd Syniosbeam with your CFT-90, 48 amp driver. I’d like to know the allowable maximum and minimum input Voltages. Instead of powering it with the current 3S LiIon internal and external packs, I’d like to power it with either a 3S or 4S LiFeP04 pack. my LiFeP04 cells are charged to 3.55 and always settle after charging to about 3.47 or about 13.88 pack Voltage. Is this within the allowable range? I’d guess a 3S pack might be too low – 10.41 down to 9.3 pack Voltage.
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, PolarLi 500 Watt 114MCP Custom, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, Enderman CFT-90 Syniosbeam, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Pichel 75W Mini-Novas
I’m looking for a couple of 22mm drivers for a M21C to drive a sbt90.2. Please let me know if and how I can purchase some?
.
You need to PM him for orders.
He may not check this thread often.
Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.
Necessity is the mother of invention and the father is creativity.
Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.
Any other forms of contact…. FB, email, Instagram ect….
PM works fine. But he might not answer you at the moment because he’s busy with other things.
LM3409 basically changes switching frequency if input voltage changes, the driver is defigned for LiIon voltage sag
Making higher voltage with less voltage sag batteries is no good idea
Heat on the diode is also an issue
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Do you have any 1S + e-switch driver tor 6V LEDs ?
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