Lux to candela calculation with distance in feet
The luminous intensity Iv in candela (cd) is equal to 0.09290304 times the illuminance Ev in lux (lx),
times the square distance from the light source d2 in square feet (ft2):
Iv(cd) = 0.09290304 × Ev(lx) × (d(ft))2
I wish I could see your pictures, but they are not showing up. Your sphere sounds a lot like the ones from Josh K. Is that what you have or is it just similar to it?
Keep in mind that the Catapult V6 uses an xhp35 Hi which is a bigger LED than xpl Hi.
Sorry, hosted to imgur, since photobucket and imageshack are garbage nowadays.
My sphere is a semi-copy of the “match sphere” Started with a ~17” bouncy ball, paper mache’d it ovfer and over for a few weeks, then did a few layers of fiberglass for strength. Cut it open, sanded the inside and painted it with BaSO4. Two baffles using pingpong balls, also BaSO4 coated, were added. One to catch direct light between the source and the sensor, and a second to catch the primary reflection directly opposed to the source. It uses an interchangeable light plate similar to the newer TA tube design, so each plate can be the right size for the light and I can swap them easily. They are also BaSO4 coated. Sphere is also calibrated with Maukka lights and have a variable multiplier correlated to color temp. Warmer lights get a slightly lower multi, due to how my DrMeter reads.
Lux to candela calculation with distance in feet
The luminous intensity Iv in candela (cd) is equal to 0.09290304 times the illuminance Ev in lux (lx),
times the square distance from the light source d2 in square feet (ft2):
Iv(cd) = 0.09290304 × Ev(lx) × (d(ft))2
I think you are making your calculations way more complicated than necessary. I would just use a simpler method such as 10 meters. There’s no need to reinvent the wheel.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Sorry, hosted to imgur, since photobucket and imageshack are garbage nowadays.
My sphere is a semi-copy of the “match sphere” Started with a ~17” bouncy ball, paper mache’d it ovfer and over for a few weeks, then did a few layers of fiberglass for strength. Cut it open, sanded the inside and painted it with BaSO4. Two baffles using pingpong balls, also BaSO4 coated, were added. One to catch direct light between the source and the sensor, and a second to catch the primary reflection directly opposed to the source. It uses an interchangeable light plate similar to the newer TA tube design, so each plate can be the right size for the light and I can swap them easily. They are also BaSO4 coated. Sphere is also calibrated with Maukka lights and have a variable multiplier correlated to color temp. Warmer lights get a slightly lower multi, due to how my DrMeter reads.
Very nice unit.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Thanks. She’s kinda ugly, but does the job well as far as I am concerned. Lumpy like a big black meatball on the outside. Was so sick of paper mache-ing that I didn’t really sand the outside to a body shop quality finish like I originally planned. Business end (inside) is baby-butt smooth.
Mine thrunite v6 measurement are similiar to nkresho. If that is true, mini gt cw have more lumen than nw .. i was told mini gt cw led are high bin. anyone can verify ?
I can’t understand what your saying here. Are you saying that the Mini GT cool white has more lumen than the Mini GT neutral white?
Where does the Catapult V6 fit in?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Jason, I think he’s saying that he gets similar readings as nkresho on the Catapult as a reference to accuracy, then says his mini gt with cw has more lumens than the nw which it should. Given the same power bin a warmer tint will always read lower output.
Nice work nkresho, the complication is that you are using feet instead of simply staying with meters as per the industry standard. Aside from that the calculations are the same. I really don’t see any need to convert with that 0.09 number, as distance is distance regardless what you call it. But then, what do I know? (no answer required, I get it…)
I do not know how to measured amp draws nor have a device to do it.
This is very easy to do. Most folks on the forum prefer using the Uni-T UT210E meter. There was a group buy as well as coupons a while back. It’s usually around 30 bucks. You can take off a lights tail cap and connect the battery with a loop of wire to the battery tube. Then clamp the meter to the wire. The light works normally and you can measure the amperage. This is how you would estimate output if you didn’t have an integrating sphere.
I don’t know who posted this to make tail cap measurements one handed.
So I’m probably going to be the last person from the pre-sale to receive their light…..
Quote:
August 29, 2018, 5:08 am
Departed USPS Regional Facility QUEENS NY DISTRIBUTIONCENTER
Your item departed our USPS facility in QUEENS NY DISTRIBUTIONCENTER on August 29, 2018 at 5:08 am. The item is currently in transit to the destination.
August 29, 2018, 1:11 am
Arrived at USPS Regional Facility QUEENS NY DISTRIBUTIONCENTER
August 28, 2018, 12:39 pm
Inbound Out of Customs
Inbound Into Customs
August 22, 2018, 1:55 pm
Processed Through Facility ISCNEWYORK NY(USPS)
Origin Post is Preparing Shipment
August 3, 2018, 6:27 am
Processed Through Facility GUANGZHOUEMS, CHINA
August 2, 2018, 4:51 pm
Acceptance CHINA
Had an ETA of Monday the 27th, and then when Monday came and went, it suddenly changed to stuck in customs. And all of that after the 3 week delay in China.
So I’m probably going to be the last person from the pre-sale to receive their light…..
Quote:
August 29, 2018, 5:08 am
Departed USPS Regional Facility QUEENS NY DISTRIBUTIONCENTER
Your item departed our USPS facility in QUEENS NY DISTRIBUTIONCENTER on August 29, 2018 at 5:08 am. The item is currently in transit to the destination.
August 29, 2018, 1:11 am
Arrived at USPS Regional Facility QUEENS NY DISTRIBUTIONCENTER
August 28, 2018, 12:39 pm
Inbound Out of Customs
Inbound Into Customs
August 22, 2018, 1:55 pm
Processed Through Facility ISCNEWYORK NY(USPS)
Origin Post is Preparing Shipment
August 3, 2018, 6:27 am
Processed Through Facility GUANGZHOUEMS, CHINA
August 2, 2018, 4:51 pm
Acceptance CHINA
Had an ETA of Monday the 27th, and then when Monday came and went, it suddenly changed to stuck in customs. And all of that after the 3 week delay in China.
I do not know how to measured amp draws nor have a device to do it.
This is very easy to do. Most folks on the forum prefer using the Uni-T UT210E meter. There was a group buy as well as coupons a while back. It’s usually around 30 bucks. You can take off a lights tail cap and connect the battery with a loop of wire to the battery tube. Then clamp the meter to the wire. The light works normally and you can measure the amperage. This is how you would estimate output if you didn’t have an integrating sphere.
Less than 3 days and the lighted switch on my Mini GT quit working.
It got dim first, then flickered from dim to bright for a while; then died. Dead as a door nail…… :(Sorry man..mine still works..but when i take the head off i hear a rattle.
Anyone else have this problem??
What is the proper course of action to resolve this??
Less than 3 days and the lighted switch on my Mini GT quit working.
It got dim first, then flickered from dim to bright for a while; then died. Dead as a door nail……
Sounds odd. That led is mounted to the driver, so it should be getting real good connections unlike the seperate switch on the early Q8’s.
Normally I would say pop the driver out and touch up the solder contacts on each side of the LED, but the glued bezel makes that pretty hard to do.
Since it was flickering, I guess that rules out that it accidentally got turned off in the UI. I remember that happened to some people on a different light and they reset the firmware back to default and it started working again. That’s a very easy thing you can try just for the heck of it.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Less than 3 days and the lighted switch on my Mini GT quit working.
It got dim first, then flickered from dim to bright for a while; then died. Dead as a door nail……
Sounds odd. That led is mounted to the driver, so it should be getting real good connections unlike the seperate switch on the early Q8’s.
Normally I would say pop the driver out and touch up the solder contacts on each side of the LED, but the glued bezel makes that pretty hard to do.
Since it was flickering, I guess that rules out that it accidentally got turned off in the UI. I remember that happened to some people on a different light and they reset the firmware back to default and it started working again. That’s a very easy thing you can try just for the heck of it.
… Yep, I guess “odd” is one way to describe it.
And I agree, it “should” be solid as a rock the way it is mounted…. But something ain’t right, cause it don’t work.
Yep I checked, and my bezel is glued tight as a drum. Situations like this, yet another reason I hate glue…..
I had also tried the reset…. but no joy.
Oh well… stuff happens. I’ll wait to see what Neal has to say.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Here’s my formula reference:
Lux to candela calculation with distance in feet
The luminous intensity Iv in candela (cd) is equal to 0.09290304 times the illuminance Ev in lux (lx),
times the square distance from the light source d2 in square feet (ft2):
Iv(cd) = 0.09290304 × Ev(lx) × (d(ft))2
Source is here: https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/lux-to-candela-calculator.html
Sorry, hosted to imgur, since photobucket and imageshack are garbage nowadays.
My sphere is a semi-copy of the “match sphere” Started with a ~17” bouncy ball, paper mache’d it ovfer and over for a few weeks, then did a few layers of fiberglass for strength. Cut it open, sanded the inside and painted it with BaSO4. Two baffles using pingpong balls, also BaSO4 coated, were added. One to catch direct light between the source and the sensor, and a second to catch the primary reflection directly opposed to the source. It uses an interchangeable light plate similar to the newer TA tube design, so each plate can be the right size for the light and I can swap them easily. They are also BaSO4 coated. Sphere is also calibrated with Maukka lights and have a variable multiplier correlated to color temp. Warmer lights get a slightly lower multi, due to how my DrMeter reads.
I think you are making your calculations way more complicated than necessary. I would just use a simpler method such as 10 meters. There’s no need to reinvent the wheel.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
It’s all in a spreadsheet. I just plug in the lux reading and it does it by itself.
I work in excel all day long at work. It’s only complicated once.
But, if it’s not accurate (the math involved), I am happy to change it up.
Very nice unit.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Thanks. She’s kinda ugly, but does the job well as far as I am concerned. Lumpy like a big black meatball on the outside. Was so sick of paper mache-ing that I didn’t really sand the outside to a body shop quality finish like I originally planned. Business end (inside) is baby-butt smooth.
I can’t understand what your saying here. Are you saying that the Mini GT cool white has more lumen than the Mini GT neutral white?
Where does the Catapult V6 fit in?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Jason, I think he’s saying that he gets similar readings as nkresho on the Catapult as a reference to accuracy, then says his mini gt with cw has more lumens than the nw which it should. Given the same power bin a warmer tint will always read lower output.
Nice work nkresho, the complication is that you are using feet instead of simply staying with meters as per the industry standard. Aside from that the calculations are the same. I really don’t see any need to convert with that 0.09 number, as distance is distance regardless what you call it. But then, what do I know? (no answer required, I get it…)
<— zip experience with spreadsheets and/or excel.
Yes .. I measured my v6 with shockli.
thrunite catapult v6. 2050
turn on. 197030 secBlf gt mini 1390
turn on. 130030 seconds.received mine (from the group buy) today!
something to fiddle with when it gets dark…
is your gt cw or?
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
I don’t know who posted this to make tail cap measurements one handed.
So I’m probably going to be the last person from the pre-sale to receive their light…..
Had an ETA of Monday the 27th, and then when Monday came and went, it suddenly changed to stuck in customs. And all of that after the 3 week delay in China.
Well that blows..sorry man…hope it comes soon.
I'm ThatCrazyFlashaholic 67
Does anybody elses make a ticking sound?
I'm ThatCrazyFlashaholic 67
.
.
@Delta_V….. Darn… you have had worse luck of any of us it seems.
Hopefully it will get there soon.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I'm ThatCrazyFlashaholic 67
Yes it is cw.
That looks quite similar to the one shown by djozz in this video (at around 03:40 minutes mark)?
What Anduril setup is good to flash on the GT mini? D1S? GT?
Less than 3 days and the lighted switch on my Mini GT quit working.
It got dim first, then flickered from dim to bright for a while; then died. Dead as a door nail……
Anyone else have this problem??
What is the proper course of action to resolve this??
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Give it a Cat scan…
I'm ThatCrazyFlashaholic 67
if you bought from Neal please write him a mail:
CS@m4dm4x.com
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Sounds odd. That led is mounted to the driver, so it should be getting real good connections unlike the seperate switch on the early Q8’s.
Normally I would say pop the driver out and touch up the solder contacts on each side of the LED, but the glued bezel makes that pretty hard to do.
Since it was flickering, I guess that rules out that it accidentally got turned off in the UI. I remember that happened to some people on a different light and they reset the firmware back to default and it started working again. That’s a very easy thing you can try just for the heck of it.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
My bezel was barely glued. I didn’t realize it wasn’t just tight until I looked at the threads.
That don’t sound promising……
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
And I agree, it “should” be solid as a rock the way it is mounted…. But something ain’t right, cause it don’t work.
Yep I checked, and my bezel is glued tight as a drum.
Situations like this, yet another reason I hate glue…..
I had also tried the reset…. but no joy.
Oh well… stuff happens. I’ll wait to see what Neal has to say.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I'm ThatCrazyFlashaholic 67
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