Hey Scott, do you recommend the new VTC5D over the older 5A? Looking for the absolute most delivery from an 18650 to stick in my Meteor.
And hey, gotta love that little GT mini, right? Did you get the short tube for it? Really cool in that format, just awesome all around for what it can do and it’s diminutive size. I think it’s a win, regardless of how close it is in performance to the D1S, different format and just overall really likeable.
Finally! And in one piece, lol. The LED isn’t quite perfectly centered, but doesn’t seem to affect the beam. Kinda disappointed in the diffuser, to be honest. It’s too loose to be used for anything except tailstanding. Otherwise, it’s extremely impressive. Shocked how much shorter it is than a C8.
Hey Scott, do you recommend the new VTC5D over the older 5A? Looking for the absolute most delivery from an 18650 to stick in my Meteor.
And hey, gotta love that little GT mini, right? Did you get the short tube for it? Really cool in that format, just awesome all around for what it can do and it’s diminutive size. I think it’s a win, regardless of how close it is in performance to the D1S, different format and just overall really likeable.
What is a Meteor 4P? I know they do perform a bit better than my VTC5A’s in some of my lights. They out perform/perform better in my multi cell carrier lights, single cell multi emitter lights, (quads and trips). They hold the output longer too. I don’t see as rapid of a drop in output as with the A’s. The VTC5D’s got my TN42 70.2 P2-1A into the 9’s the A’s did not, as much as I tried and I have a lot of A’s of different vintages. Now I’m wondering about the VTC6A’s….right, these are the next bad boy 18650’s?
Edit: Yeah I really like this little bugger, the wife had to laugh when she seen it next to his three giant brothers! And of course I got the even more miniscule Micro Tube for the baby GT!
Got my GT mini today… GT miniscule measured 1318lm with a 30Q and 1463lm with a VTC5D.
Very Nice…INDEED!
Nice.. your lumen number are reading high as well as d4s.. did you wait like 5 seconds after you turn on the light?
Naw, that read was at turn on with the VTC5D. I don’t do countdown or 30sec test with FETDD drivers, it will drive you crazy. I watch the output drop for anything out of the norm, like it sky rocketing down, other then that, I don’t really care. Now my Linear, Buck or Boost driven lights, that’s when I care a lot.
Scott, yeah, the Meteor is 4P to 12 emitters. Stock the cell choice may not be such a big issue, but, well, mine is a long way removed from stock. May be pulling 50-60A. (I get a quick 17,284 lumen reading and it plunges, getting hot and draining cells at a crazy rate) So of course, I’m looking for that little bit more…
The VTC5D (late 2017, early 2018) is supposed to be the latest, greatest chemical mix. It’s a bit better than the older VTC5A (2016).
When it comes to the major battery manufacturers, it seems like their newest version always performs better than their older version. They are always finding small improvements. (Don’t qoute me, I’m talking about in general they always make improvements)
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Scott, yeah, the Meteor is 4P to 12 emitters. Stock the cell choice may not be such a big issue, but, well, mine is a long way removed from stock. May be pulling 50-60A. (I get a quick 17,284 lumen reading and it plunges, getting hot and draining cells at a crazy rate) So of course, I’m looking for that little bit more…
The 8 VTC5D’s I have register 15-16 IR on my SKY RC..if that helps ya…
Yep, thanks Kawi. The 30Q’s I’ve been using are showing around 25 IR. Compared to the single digits of my 30T’s (07-09) 25 is pretty high.
Thinking about trying out the offset boring with a 4 jaw chuck to see if I can open the battery tube holes in the M43 a bit to accept the 20650 LG HG6, pretty dang close to the 30T really in a slightly smaller form factor. (I could offset bore towards the middle and not bother threads or anything, in theory) Wish I had a mill….
Still thinking about making a new tube for my GT mini to use a 30T…
BLF GT mini with short and reg tubes, BLF GT with short and reg tubes. Not sure that I’ve seen these all together or at least recently, so here they are.
The VTC5D (late 2017, early 2018) is supposed to be the latest, greatest chemical mix. It’s a bit better than the older VTC5A (2016).
When it comes to the major battery manufacturers, it seems like their newest version always performs better than their older version. They are always finding small improvements. (Don’t qoute me, I’m talking about in general they always make improvements)
According to HKJ curves:
VTC5D < VTC5A < Samsung 24S < Samsung 20S.
The VTC5D (late 2017, early 2018) is supposed to be the latest, greatest chemical mix. It’s a bit better than the older VTC5A (2016).
When it comes to the major battery manufacturers, it seems like their newest version always performs better than their older version. They are always finding small improvements. (Don’t qoute me, I’m talking about in general they always make improvements)
According to HKJ curves:
VTC5D < VTC5A < Samsung 24S < Samsung 20S.
When a battery manufacturer designs a battery they have to adjust the chemical mix to give them what they want. They can go towards the direction of high capacity at the expense of less amperage output. Or they can go the other direction and make it have more amperage output at the expense of less capacity.
Every new battery seems to perform better overall. An example is the old Sanyo/Panasonic 3400B compared to the newer 3500GA. Max continous amperage went from 5A to 10A and capacity went up just a tiny bit.
To my knowledge HKJ has not tested the VTC5D, 24S or 20S. Maybe you are refering to Mooch?
Do you have a chart of these tests? I’m curious to see it.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Yeah, I think you mean Mooch. He even explains in his report that you have to sacrifice capacity if you want amperage and vice versa. Here is a chart I found. I’d this the chart your refering to? The batteries are a bit different.
.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
A quote from Baditude on the e-cigarette forum. (CDR = continous discharge rate)
Quote:
Let’s follow the evolution of the Sony VTC line:
Sony 18650VTC3 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC4, 2100 mah 23 amp CDR — lost significant amps but gained significantly more capacity
Sony 18650VTC5, 2600 mah 20 amp CDR — added significantly more mah, but lost very little amperage
Sony 18650VTC5A, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR — lost a minimum of capacity, but gained more amperage
Sony 18650VTC5D, 2700-2800 mah 25 amp CDR — gains more capacity without sacrificing amps
Sony 18659VTC6 3000mAh 15/20 amp CDR — gained maximum capacity, but lost moderate amperage. Obviously designed for situations where max capacity was desired, but still had a decent amperage output.
Maximum amperage is not always the end goal when designing a battery; if it was the VTC3 would be the only battery Sony needed to make. Some end users wanted a longer lasting battery, even if that meant sacrificing some amperage.
Subsequent incarnations have had varying capacities and amperage. Now end users have a wider choice of options according to their specific requirements.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
The VTC5D (late 2017, early 2018) is supposed to be the latest, greatest chemical mix. It’s a bit better than the older VTC5A (2016).
When it comes to the major battery manufacturers, it seems like their newest version always performs better than their older version. They are always finding small improvements. (Don’t qoute me, I’m talking about in general they always make improvements)
According to HKJ curves:
VTC5D < VTC5A < Samsung 24S < Samsung 20S.
When a battery manufacturer designs a battery they have to adjust the chemical mix to give them what they want. They can go towards the direction of high capacity at the expense of less amperage output. Or they can go the other direction and make it have more amperage output at the expense of less capacity.
Every new battery seems to perform better overall. An example is the old Sanyo/Panasonic 3400B compared to the newer 3500GA. Max continous amperage went from 5A to 10A and capacity went up just a tiny bit.
To my knowledge HKJ has not tested the VTC5D, 24S or 20S. Maybe you are refering to Mooch?
Do you have a chart of these tests? I’m curious to see it.
A quote from Baditude on the e-cigarette forum. (CDR = continous discharge rate)
Quote:
Let’s follow the evolution of the Sony VTC line:
Sony 18650VTC3 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC4, 2100 mah 23 amp CDR — lost significant amps but gained significantly more capacity
Sony 18650VTC5, 2600 mah 20 amp CDR — added significantly more mah, but lost very little amperage
Sony 18650VTC5A, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR — lost a minimum of capacity, but gained more amperage
Sony 18650VTC5D, 2700-2800 mah 25 amp CDR — gains more capacity without sacrificing amps
Sony 18659VTC6 3000mAh 15/20 amp CDR — gained maximum capacity, but lost moderate amperage. Obviously designed for situations where max capacity was desired, but still had a decent amperage output.
Maximum amperage is not always the end goal when designing a battery; if it was the VTC3 would be the only battery Sony needed to make. Some end users wanted a longer lasting battery, even if that meant sacrificing some amperage.
Subsequent incarnations have had varying capacities and amperage. Now end users have a wider choice of options according to their specific requirements.
Thanks for the info.. i have 5 sony vtc5d. I dont see much improve over the sony vtc5a.. vtc5d are damn expensive $10 each.., i personally would use sony vtc5a if i can.. its much cheaper..
hm i think my mini has a problem with the button now It barely works i just put in a fresh charged 30q battery and its like not coming on, it gets power and i have to click like 10 times or more for it to come on suddenly i dont get it? if i double click a few times i get high mode and cant if i hold in button ramp. If i lose tailcap and back again the button turns green so idk it wasnt like this last night,
anyone else have issues with button?
I should send neal a mail maybe but this sucks never had a button go bad on a light before like this..
hm i think my mini has a problem with the button now It barely works i just put in a fresh charged 30q battery and its like not coming on, it gets power and i have to click like 10 times or more for it to come on suddenly i dont get it? if i double click a few times i get high mode and cant if i hold in button ramp. If i lose tailcap and back again the button turns green so idk it wasnt like this last night,
anyone else have issues with button?
I should send neal a mail maybe but this sucks never had a button go bad on a light before like this..
I had a switching problem with the mini-GT that sounds like yours. It was not there when I received it but it started after some playing with the light. I contacted Neal about it and he was helpful and prepared to compensate me for it, but also asked if I could look into what the underlying problem was (fair enough, he knows that I’m into modding flashlights). It did not come as far as unsoldering the switch to see if the problem was inside the switch (I ordered some spare switches on aliexpress for a dollar) because the switching started working again after some more use and letting the light run hot a couple of times. Since then the switching works fine, although you never know if it stays that way of course.
Yeah….. on a couple of occasions (so far) mine would not shut off. I unscrewed the tailcap to shut it off. After that it worked fine until the next time it would not shut off.
The green light on the switch quit working the 3rd day.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Hey Scott, do you recommend the new VTC5D over the older 5A? Looking for the absolute most delivery from an 18650 to stick in my Meteor.
And hey, gotta love that little GT mini, right? Did you get the short tube for it? Really cool in that format, just awesome all around for what it can do and it’s diminutive size. I think it’s a win, regardless of how close it is in performance to the D1S, different format and just overall really likeable.
Nice.. your lumen number are reading high as well as d4s.. did you wait like 5 seconds after you turn on the light?
Finally! And in one piece, lol. The LED isn’t quite perfectly centered, but doesn’t seem to affect the beam. Kinda disappointed in the diffuser, to be honest. It’s too loose to be used for anything except tailstanding. Otherwise, it’s extremely impressive. Shocked how much shorter it is than a C8.
What is a Meteor 4P? I know they do perform a bit better than my VTC5A’s in some of my lights. They out perform/perform better in my multi cell carrier lights, single cell multi emitter lights, (quads and trips). They hold the output longer too. I don’t see as rapid of a drop in output as with the A’s. The VTC5D’s got my TN42 70.2 P2-1A into the 9’s the A’s did not, as much as I tried and I have a lot of A’s of different vintages. Now I’m wondering about the VTC6A’s….right, these are the next bad boy 18650’s?
Edit: Yeah I really like this little bugger, the wife had to laugh when she seen it next to his three giant brothers! And of course I got the even more miniscule Micro Tube for the baby GT!
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Naw, that read was at turn on with the VTC5D. I don’t do countdown or 30sec test with FETDD drivers, it will drive you crazy. I watch the output drop for anything out of the norm, like it sky rocketing down, other then that, I don’t really care. Now my Linear, Buck or Boost driven lights, that’s when I care a lot.
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Scott, yeah, the Meteor is 4P to 12 emitters. Stock the cell choice may not be such a big issue, but, well, mine is a long way removed from stock. May be pulling 50-60A. (I get a quick 17,284 lumen reading and it plunges, getting hot and draining cells at a crazy rate) So of course, I’m looking for that little bit more…
The VTC5D (late 2017, early 2018) is supposed to be the latest, greatest chemical mix. It’s a bit better than the older VTC5A (2016).
When it comes to the major battery manufacturers, it seems like their newest version always performs better than their older version. They are always finding small improvements. (Don’t qoute me, I’m talking about in general they always make improvements)
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
very nice, i asume its cw ?
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Indeed…
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
The 8 VTC5D’s I have register 15-16 IR on my SKY RC..if that helps ya…
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Yep, thanks Kawi.
The 30Q’s I’ve been using are showing around 25 IR. Compared to the single digits of my 30T’s (07-09) 25 is pretty high.
Thinking about trying out the offset boring with a 4 jaw chuck to see if I can open the battery tube holes in the M43 a bit to accept the 20650 LG HG6, pretty dang close to the 30T really in a slightly smaller form factor. (I could offset bore towards the middle and not bother threads or anything, in theory) Wish I had a mill….
Still thinking about making a new tube for my GT mini to use a 30T…
BLF GT mini with short and reg tubes, BLF GT with short and reg tubes. Not sure that I’ve seen these all together or at least recently, so here they are.
My Light Collection
thats a nice looking blf-family.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
According to HKJ curves:
VTC5D < VTC5A < Samsung 24S < Samsung 20S.
When a battery manufacturer designs a battery they have to adjust the chemical mix to give them what they want. They can go towards the direction of high capacity at the expense of less amperage output. Or they can go the other direction and make it have more amperage output at the expense of less capacity.
Every new battery seems to perform better overall. An example is the old Sanyo/Panasonic 3400B compared to the newer 3500GA. Max continous amperage went from 5A to 10A and capacity went up just a tiny bit.
To my knowledge HKJ has not tested the VTC5D, 24S or 20S. Maybe you are refering to Mooch?
Do you have a chart of these tests? I’m curious to see it.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yeah, I think you mean Mooch. He even explains in his report that you have to sacrifice capacity if you want amperage and vice versa. Here is a chart I found. I’d this the chart your refering to? The batteries are a bit different.
.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
A quote from Baditude on the e-cigarette forum. (CDR = continous discharge rate)
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I forgot, HKJ didn’t test VTC5D. Not sure where I’ve seen the direct comparison with VTC5A…
But he did test 24S and 20S, with Vapcell wraps:
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Vapcell%20INR18650%202400mAh%20(Purple)%20UK.html
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Vapcell%20INR18650%202000mAh%20(Black)%20UK.html
ADDED:
VTC5A vs. VTC5D, from Mooch:
Hey guys. Banggood is offering the Gt Mini for 32$! Just got one for myself.
There’s no replacement for displacement.
It must be part of their big 12th anniversary sale.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
It’s a coupon code teacher. It’s on the Banggood discounts thread. The code is ab8a87.
There’s no replacement for displacement.
Thanks for the info.. i have 5 sony vtc5d. I dont see much improve over the sony vtc5a.. vtc5d are damn expensive $10 each.., i personally would use sony vtc5a if i can.. its much cheaper..
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
hm i think my mini has a problem with the button now
It barely works i just put in a fresh charged 30q battery and its like not coming on, it gets power and i have to click like 10 times or more for it to come on suddenly i dont get it? if i double click a few times i get high mode and cant if i hold in button ramp. If i lose tailcap and back again the button turns green so idk it wasnt like this last night,
anyone else have issues with button?
I should send neal a mail maybe but this sucks never had a button go bad on a light before like this..
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
I had a switching problem with the mini-GT that sounds like yours. It was not there when I received it but it started after some playing with the light. I contacted Neal about it and he was helpful and prepared to compensate me for it, but also asked if I could look into what the underlying problem was (fair enough, he knows that I’m into modding flashlights). It did not come as far as unsoldering the switch to see if the problem was inside the switch (I ordered some spare switches on aliexpress for a dollar) because the switching started working again after some more use and letting the light run hot a couple of times. Since then the switching works fine, although you never know if it stays that way of course.
link to djozz tests
here is a short video of how it behaves
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Yes, that looks familiar, sometimes the switching is picked up by the light, most times it is not.
link to djozz tests
Sometimes mine takes a few clicks to shut off too.
Yeah….. on a couple of occasions (so far) mine would not shut off. I unscrewed the tailcap to shut it off. After that it worked fine until the next time it would not shut off.
The green light on the switch quit working the 3rd day.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
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