What is the best solder league to put on the positive driver contact to protect it from scratch?
In the past I used Sn-Pb 60/40 but after a little use it blackened and had to be cleaned, I thought it was caused by the presence of lead
Nice find but I already have some thin nickel plated brass sticks.
my question was about the marks on positive driver pad caused by battery pole
I wanted fix it with a small solder blow from an alloy that does not form oxide and more hard than SN/PB.
What is the best solder league to put on the positive driver contact to protect it from scratch?
In the past I used Sn-Pb 60/40 but after a little use it blackened and had to be cleaned, I thought it was caused by the presence of lead
Nice find but I already have some thin nickel plated brass sticks.
my question was about the marks on positive driver pad caused by battery pole
I wanted fix it with a small solder blow from an alloy that does not form oxide and more hard than SN/PB.
you could sweat solder a small piece of sheet silver on there instead, it`s a better material than gold (or anything else) even it`s oxide conducts as well! it`s also a soft metal. I replace all sorts of flashlight parts with pure silver, it`s worth getting some in (for everyone into repair and modding).
Did LED (rngwn) and resistor mod today. I only had 0805 to hand but managed to squeeze them on. Tried stacking it on top of existing 220 but didn’t work for some reason, so ended up removing it as djozz suggested (loading it up with solder and launching it) and was easier than expected. These things are so tiny. Was (pleasantly) surprised 0805 fitted. Currently have 2300K with 331, 681 and 222 resistors to see which is best for a night stand. At first guess though, I’d say 331 is around 0.6 lumens, 681 around 0.5 lumens, 222 around 0.2 lumens.
That’s dim, Hodor. Do you use diffuser?
I been using mine which is stock and it’s such a nice light to keep on nightstand. Didn’t get sleep one night, clock was something like 2-3 am, so turned light on, got some quick noodles from kitchen and watched some YouTube-videos and ate in bed. I haven’t ate in bed for ages and damn that was fun and cozy. C01 tint sure is nice and with diffuser the brightness is just about right for night use. Cheap way to reduce it even more would get some transparent tape on top of it maybe.
I tried with diffuser but was still too bright. Intended use is as a night light for kids (0.5 lumens should be perfect), and for me when I need to go pee pee in the middle of night (I find 0.3 lumens too bright in these instances). I bought a few (too many!) so will leave some stock for general around the house use.
Liked my 4 co1s so much ordered 4 more and a co1 to get 10% discount. No green again it took me a while to notice they didn’t send me a black by mistake.
First thanks to this forum for the great info and suggestions, especially the Sofirn SP40. I’ve always wanted the equivalent Zebralight, but couldn’t justify the cost for occasional use.
I had a question about the C01 / C01s – are there any tricks or hacks to stopping the end coming off in your pocket?
Previously the only twisty torches I’ve had were maglites.
As much as I love my C01 getting that balance between will not accidently turn on and too loose is tricky.
The grease has become a bit thicker over time so that my C01 does not often unscrew itself in my pocket, but last week it happened again after a yearvin my pocket without problem. You could try thicker grease perhaps?
Thanks. I’ll have a look at what I’ve got in the shed.
Pretty sure it’ll just be normal, copper, or silicone.
Thinking about it red rubber grease is quite stickly and I’ve got a little pot of that. No idea what it’s like on metal threads though as I’ve never tried it (for the obvious reason).
a quick google says, that is not correct,
lead tarnishes to a dull gray color
Tin tarnishes black
When I clean threads on a lamp it is always dark grey smudged.
There is no solder, lead or tin, involved in your case. It’s just aluminum.
Nice find but I already have some thin nickel plated brass sticks.
my question was about the marks on positive driver pad caused by battery pole
I wanted fix it with a small solder blow from an alloy that does not form oxide and more hard than SN/PB.
Sounds like you want precious metals
link to djozz tests
Trying to order from Sofirn but they ask for a lot. Can’t just use PayPal. Just gave up.
try amazon
you could sweat solder a small piece of sheet silver on there instead, it`s a better material than gold (or anything else) even it`s oxide conducts as well! it`s also a soft metal. I replace all sorts of flashlight parts with pure silver, it`s worth getting some in (for everyone into repair and modding).
Thx for suggestion ❤️
Will try Ag sheet if I find it
Yea by the time they charge shipping at Sofirn same price. I was thinking folks were getting the c01 for $4
yes, but you have to buy 6 to get the free shipping..
And how many of the co1s?
try this link
Tried 4 and got free shipping. Very confusing sight but hopefully smooth sailing from here.
Yeah if you notice up at the top of the Sofirn page, it says free shipping on orders over $21.
Not a bad deal….
The lighter the brighter the better.
Can’t find that notice but that’s what I needed to know.
It’s in the blue band at the top of the Sofirn page.
Looked again nope but now I know.
Fo run stock Led at ~40 mA max.
Jumper with solder blow the 220 resistor without remove it
or I have to change resistor with lower value like 10Ω ?
Is the silver version anodized silver or the unanodized version? Also how long are shipments taking to US lately.
There’s no silver C01. The silver C01S is not anodized.
Smile, you cannot kill them all.
Did LED (rngwn) and resistor mod today. I only had 0805 to hand but managed to squeeze them on. Tried stacking it on top of existing 220 but didn’t work for some reason, so ended up removing it as djozz suggested (loading it up with solder and launching it) and was easier than expected. These things are so tiny. Was (pleasantly) surprised 0805 fitted. Currently have 2300K with 331, 681 and 222 resistors to see which is best for a night stand. At first guess though, I’d say 331 is around 0.6 lumens, 681 around 0.5 lumens, 222 around 0.2 lumens.
That’s dim, Hodor. Do you use diffuser?
I been using mine which is stock and it’s such a nice light to keep on nightstand. Didn’t get sleep one night, clock was something like 2-3 am, so turned light on, got some quick noodles from kitchen and watched some YouTube-videos and ate in bed. I haven’t ate in bed for ages and damn that was fun and cozy. C01 tint sure is nice and with diffuser the brightness is just about right for night use. Cheap way to reduce it even more would get some transparent tape on top of it maybe.
I tried with diffuser but was still too bright. Intended use is as a night light for kids (0.5 lumens should be perfect), and for me when I need to go pee pee in the middle of night (I find 0.3 lumens too bright in these instances). I bought a few (too many!) so will leave some stock for general around the house use.
Liked my 4 co1s so much ordered 4 more and a co1 to get 10% discount. No green again it took me a while to notice they didn’t send me a black by mistake.
New poster, medium time lurker.
First thanks to this forum for the great info and suggestions, especially the Sofirn SP40. I’ve always wanted the equivalent Zebralight, but couldn’t justify the cost for occasional use.
I had a question about the C01 / C01s – are there any tricks or hacks to stopping the end coming off in your pocket?
Previously the only twisty torches I’ve had were maglites.
As much as I love my C01 getting that balance between will not accidently turn on and too loose is tricky.
Cheers.
The grease has become a bit thicker over time so that my C01 does not often unscrew itself in my pocket, but last week it happened again after a yearvin my pocket without problem. You could try thicker grease perhaps?
link to djozz tests
Thanks. I’ll have a look at what I’ve got in the shed.
Pretty sure it’ll just be normal, copper, or silicone.
Thinking about it red rubber grease is quite stickly and I’ve got a little pot of that. No idea what it’s like on metal threads though as I’ve never tried it (for the obvious reason).
I've just ordered three, total $20.97, and got free shipping.
Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A)
I’ve been carrying one of my C01S lights in my pocket for months, and have never had the head come off. How often does this occur to you guys?
You don't really need a parachute to skydive. But you DO need one if you want to skydive twice!
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