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nvanlaar
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jmm244 wrote:
I took my SC26 that arrived earlier today out to play this evening and and was surprised at how tight the beam was, considering I ordered a HD. Looked closer at the LED with a magnifier, NO DOME. Checked the box XHP35 HI. My invoice clearly states “Design: XHP35 HD NW” (at least they got the NW right). My bad for not checking everything out thoroughly before I installed the Trits, lesson learned (yeah, sure.)

Honestly, there is not much difference between the two beam profiles. My HD has a more pronounced corona around the hot spot, my HI has a bright hot spot that fades to the spill with no pronounced ring. My personal thought is the reflector style/design with the domeless HI emitter produces a better beam.

“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro

RobertB
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shirnask wrote:
jmm244 – how about a pic to show how far the trits extend above the surface and what glue are you using

Here you go. The trit sits .55mm proud. Which means, the slots are only about 1mm deep. I didn’t install the other 5 because of this. However, the single trit above the button, makes finding the button at night easy. Used Norland UV adhesive, cured for 3 minutes.

Yourrid
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Has anyone taken the driver out to see if it can be replaced or modified to increase the output?

Still waiting on mine; USPS has been saying “In transit to next facility” for the past 3 days. So it’s in the US, somewhere… Tired

shirnask
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RobertB wrote:
shirnask wrote:
jmm244 – how about a pic to show how far the trits extend above the surface and what glue are you using

Here you go. The trit sits .55mm proud. Which means, the slots are only about 1mm deep. I didn’t install the other 5 because of this. However, the single trit above the button, makes finding the button at night easy. Used Norland UV adhesive, cured for 3 minutes

Thank you, that’s exactly what I wanted to know.

One trit is probably the best idea for someone like me, if it can be broken I will find a way. Will have to wait till my new UV light gets here. I killed the last one Facepalm

RobertB
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shirnask wrote:
RobertB wrote:
shirnask wrote:
jmm244 – how about a pic to show how far the trits extend above the surface and what glue are you using

Here you go. The trit sits .55mm proud. Which means, the slots are only about 1mm deep. I didn’t install the other 5 because of this. However, the single trit above the button, makes finding the button at night easy. Used Norland UV adhesive, cured for 3 minutes

Thank you, that’s exactly what I wanted to know.

One trit is probably the best idea for someone like me, if it can be broken I will find a way. Will have to wait till my new UV light gets here. I killed the last one Facepalm

Haha! grab youself a convoy uv. I’ve installed close to 700 trits with it, and it’s still going strong.

SKV89
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Newlumen wrote:

I want to try something different.. nw is actually not that bad.. i use these lights for the short range between 50 feet to 200 feet… nw is more easy on eyes and doesnt bounce back bright white light like a cw.

I just found out nw is good for indoor lighting such as warehouse, rooms, and even trees..

I like the color on the SC26 NW alot too. It looks about 4700k with no green. I think most people hate NW/WW due to the yellow, which is really because of tint being above the BBL resulting in greenish/lime/yellow. I am a WW/NW fan but I can’t stand yellow or green so the tint is as important as CCT. I think 4000k to 4500k works best for outdoor wilderness use as it simulates daylight colors the most to my eyes. I compared side by side with CW inside a dense forest and CW makes colors washed out and pale whereas NW with HI-CRI gives the forest life and colors are much more vibrant and saturated like it appears in daytime. However, with the Skylumen Delta, I’m kinda starting to like CW (with little to no blue) for throwers. It looks freaking intense.

guerrilla154
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If there’s still time to jump in on this, I’d love to snag one!

misterpearguy
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Interested. Can I get in on this? Thanks!

coolriku
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Also interested, is it still possible?

sleasys14
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That sucks about the trits.

Gebe
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RobertB wrote:
shirnask wrote:
jmm244 – how about a pic to show how far the trits extend above the surface and what glue are you using

Here you go. The trit sits .55mm proud. Which means, the slots are only about 1mm deep. I didn’t install the other 5 because of this. However, the single trit above the button, makes finding the button at night easy. Used Norland UV adhesive, cured for 3 minutes.

!{width:100%}https://i.imgur.com/JbItyWj.jpg!

That’s a great idea about just putting one above the switch. I bought 6 trits for this light but it’s only going to get the one.

mattlward
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Order placed for the SC26.

Will have to dremel the trit slot a little deeper for the power switch.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

Yourrid
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Am I the only one that was surprised by the fact that the side switch ONLY lights up blue when the light is on? I was hoping the switch would glow when it’s just sitting on the shelf…

Also, the HI (dedomed version) neutral white is much more yellow than I had anticipated. The HD (domed version) is a great neutral white. Side by side, the HI is well…. pretty dang yellow Tired

vinte77
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For those of you who are interested in the disassembled pics of the light, below are the pics that khas took and posted elsewhere.

khas wrote:
Some quick pictures of a disassembled SC26 taken with my phone :

!{width:25%}https://abload.de/img/img_20180724_053613lal6csl.jpg!

khas wrote:




Click pictures to embiggen
I ordered a HI version straight from Haikelite but they sent me a HD version. I have replaced the HD on the 16mm MCPCB to a HI on a 20mm Noctigon, I had to cut a bit of one corner so that it would clear the switch.

I like the combination of the slight OP reflector and the HI emitter I think it make for a very smooth beam profile.

@joechina

I hope the pictures of the driver suffice I am not that technical inclined Sad

The flashlight is NOT weatherproof, I cooled it of under a slow running faucet and water got in through the switch.

patmurris
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I received a brown HD NW today. The overall finish is spotless.

However the beam is really ugly with a bright NW hotspot surrounded by a yelowish corona and an other purpleish one around it… Almost a rainbow. Not the best beam i’ve seen.

Another issue is the tail cap ano is a slightly different tint. Not a huge difference but it’s not spot on.

Is there a shortcut to moon from off? – like long press on the D4 and other lights?

pc_light
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patmurris wrote:
I received a brown HD NW today… tail cap ano is a slightly different tint. Not a huge difference but it’s not spot on.
I got the same configuration and same issue with ano tint. Mine is ever so slightly greenish compared to the rest of the brown body. But I’m used to some variation from the old Natural OD days.

patmurris wrote:
…the beam is really ugly with a bright NW hotspot surrounded by a yelowish corona and an other purpleish one around it…
Funny but the beam off-tint intensity seems to vary with the available ambient lighting, sometimes more yellowish than others. If you are ok with a less pronounced hotspot, a little diffuse film around the edges (annularly) knocks the tint (shift) right out.

patmurris wrote:
Is there a shortcut to moon from off? – like long press on the D4 and other lights?
I searched for the same and there does not appear to be. +1 on that feature being +desireable /missing.

Seeking the light.

Yourrid
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patmurris wrote:
I received a brown HD NW today. The overall finish is spotless.

However the beam is really ugly with a bright NW hotspot surrounded by a yelowish corona and an other purpleish one around it… Almost a rainbow. Not the best beam i’ve seen.

Another issue is the tail cap ano is a slightly different tint. Not a huge difference but it’s not spot on.

Is there a shortcut to moon from off? – like long press on the D4 and other lights?

I noticed the same thing with the yellowish tint. I wish I had gone with 2 HI’s instead.

The user interface on this is pretty bad. They tried to make it similar to Narsil, but failed. Who thought it was a good idea to require a full press to turn the light on, and have it remember the last mode? I keep turning it on turbo, turning the light off, clicking the button hoping it would begin ramping up… nothing happens, I look at the light, release the switch, and now I have 1500 lumens searing my retinas.

Apparently Haikelite assumed that we would all know the exact mode we would want next time. It’s like Russian Roulette; I wonder what brightness setting I will get the next time I turn my lights on Facepalm

pc_light
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Yourrid wrote:
I keep turning it on turbo, turning the light off, clicking the button hoping it would begin ramping up… nothing happens, I look at the light, release the switch, and now I have 1500 lumens searing my retinas.
Something I found that sometimes helps – BEFORE turning Off from Turbo, double-click to return to the previous mode then turn Off. Next turn On will return to the last used saved mode rather than Turbo (unless that is your last saved mode.)

Being able to toggle Mem would have solved that :-(.

Seeking the light.

vinte77
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So I received my lights yesterday. I only got to test out the white one (I also ordered a blue one). My white one came a little scuffed but it’s not really noticeable because of the color. I did inspect the blue one for imperfections but I didn’t notice any when I quickly looked it over.

I see what people are saying about the trit slots being shallow. However, on mine only the trit slot above the switch is shallow and the rest of the slots are deep enough where the trits fit in and are recessed. In my excitement, I installed 2 on the light, one above the button and another on the opposite side. I will report back over the weekend, when I have more time to play with the light and possibly have time to mod one of them.

gottobegeek
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I found the same issue with the finicky UI … I thought it was my battery or something wrong I was doing.

If I take the battery out and start from square one its perfect ramping and plenty impressive bright.

The light itself is beautiful blue and I really like the form factor, but I really don’t think I can live with the UI.

If anybody has a solution….ie wants to mod it for me or take it off my hands let me know. Facepalm

g

Yourrid
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Lexel might be coming out with a driver to replace this one with hopefully Narsil in it… so you may want to wait and see what he comes out with.

HaikeLite just needs to start making hosts Facepalm

vinte77
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A couple more observations I forgot to mention… The xhp35 hi also has the egg yolk effect, which a TIR would resolve. What do you guys think about converting this light to a 3v led instead and running one of lexel’s exsting drivers on it?

shirnask
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vinte77 wrote:
So I received my lights yesterday. I only got to test out the white one (I also ordered a blue one). My white one came a little scuffed but it’s not really noticeable because of the color. I did inspect the blue one for imperfections but I didn’t notice any when I quickly looked it over.

I see what people are saying about the trit slots being shallow. However, on mine only the trit slot above the switch is shallow and the rest of the slots are deep enough where the trits fit in and are recessed. In my excitement, I installed 2 on the light, one above the button and another on the opposite side. I will report back over the weekend, when I have more time to play with the light and possibly have time to mod one of them.

Your post made me look at the trit slots again – found 3 very shallow – 2 almost deep enough – 1 in between – so much for QC

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gottobegeek wrote:
I found the same issue with the finicky UI … I thought it was my battery or something wrong I was doing.

If I take the battery out and start from square one its perfect ramping and plenty impressive bright.

The light itself is beautiful blue and I really like the form factor, but I really don’t think I can live with the UI.

If anybody has a solution….ie wants to mod it for me or take it off my hands let me know. Facepalm

I know what you guys like. Blf gt style firmware..

gottobegeek
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Update on UI issues.
I decided to just try an 18650 instead of the one I had (Accreate Practical GTF 3.7V 26650 8800mAh Lithium Battery).
Seems to work better, at least not going into strobe all the time, don’t know how it affects the light otherwise but seems to ramp.
Maybe the 26650 cell I was using is no good??
Maybe you guys could weigh in on this, give it a try and report back??

ty
G

g

Yourrid
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gottobegeek wrote:
Update on UI issues.
I decided to just try an 18650 instead of the one I had (Accreate Practical GTF 3.7V 26650 8800mAh Lithium Battery).
Seems to work better, at least not going into strobe all the time, don’t know how it affects the light otherwise but seems to ramp.
Maybe the 26650 cell I was using is no good??
Maybe you guys could weigh in on this, give it a try and report back??

ty
G

Mine ramps just fine regardless of battery. I’ve got one with a 26650 and one with a 26350. Haven’t even found strobe yet.

vinte77
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I haven’t tried my light with a 26350 yet, but it ramps fine. It’s not the best UI but I don’t think it’s that bad, but it could be because I saw how bad it could be in the MT09R. The SC26 could be improved upon but for me I can live with it fine.

nvanlaar
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Both of mine work fine. Ramping is not as smooth as an Emisar or other BLF ramping lights, but better than other companies are producing. How do you even get to the strobe? I have used a 26650, 26350, and 2×26350. No issues.

“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro

guerrilla154
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Just ordered one blue XHP35 HI NW!

freeme
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Thank your for your support!

guerrilla154 wrote:
Just ordered one blue XHP35 HI NW!

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