Lumintop should make just a complete head available so we can use our existing carriers and tubes. That would help keep the cost down a bit.
Sadly the savings of leaving out the battery tube and carriers would be minimal, maybe $30, the bulk of the cost is the head so it doesn’t make a lot of sense to sell it separately.
Remember that both the head and the reflector start out as big solid hunks of aluminum, that is a lot of cost and machine work.
Lumintop should make just a complete head available so we can use our existing carriers and tubes. That would help keep the cost down a bit.
I was thinking of just the lower head, the light engine. Then your not paying for the expensive reflector, etc… and the shipping box would be much smaller and lighter.
The issue here is that many people have a big problem opening up the GT, so it could lead to more issues then it fixes. Otherwise this is what would of been offered instead of the kit.
The throw claimed is with the de-domed LED, but the led will come dome-on, as I understand it. What would be the throw of the GT70 stock, as it comes from the factory?
The driver used would be fet+1+15, instead of the original buck driver. Is that correct?
Thanks.
FWIW, I think the claimed throw, candela, and lumens should be given as it comes from the factory, not user-modded. Making a note of the expected throw after dedoming is great, but is not how the light comes stock.
That was a mis-understanding. The specs in the OP are in fact approximately what the final numbers should be as delivered from lumintop with the dome on.
In fact I am actually under-rating them since we do not know the exact LED model yet. If for some reason they can not get P2 bin emitters, then the numbers might have to be adjusted. We will know more in a week or 2 when they find some LED options.
I tested a P2 bin 5700k light just yesterday and the numbers posted are a good bit under-rated from what I got to give some wiggle room.
It is a TA V2 driver that replaces the 7135’s with a resistor bank. 7135’s die at 12V and do not like 6V so I have to find another option and after a lot of testing and prototyping this has proved to work very well.
Interested in NW complete flashlight. But only if it delivers the promised lumen. This thing needs to be insane!
The lumens and throw ratings at this point are only an educated estimate as we have not found the production LED yet but based on my own testing and VOB’s among others, these numbers are well within reason. Worst case we can go with some P2 5700k emitters hit them.
The only real trick is finding a 5000k P2 bin, these are harder to find and I have not tested them yet obviously.
If people would prefer I can under-rate the ratings even more for the time being or just remove them entirely until we find the production LED and get some hard numbers. Although I am pretty sure they will be within ~10% of the numbers I posted if they are P2 binned.
Signed for 2 conversion kits. Is there a way to see the sign up results in google? IE total number of people etc?
For the Cool LEDs. My 2 cents is to absolutely go as cool as possible. Especially since a de-dome will lower the temp. I cant even tell you how many people have been blowing up my email because they want the laser like effect generated by the cool white.
In Him (Jesus Christ) was life; and the life was the light of men. And the light shineth in darkness; and the darkness comprehended it not. http://asflashlights.com/ Everyday Carry Flashlights, plus Upgrades for Maglite.
Signed for 2 conversion kits. Is there a way to see the sign up results in google? IE total number of people etc?
For the Cool LEDs. My 2 cents is to absolutely go as cool as possible. Especially since a de-dome will lower the temp. I cant even tell you how many people have been blowing up my email because they want the laser like effect generated by the cool white.
Yes, it is all going into a spreadsheet now. When I have some free time I am going to figure out a way to transfer that over to the OP on a semi-regular basis so peopple can keep track of it.
Or I might also get a screen shot of the summery like this, although it doesn’t show the exact numbers:
We are still in the very early stages of looking for LED’s. What options there end up being will really depend on what we can find. I really want to stick with P2 bin so we are kind of at the mercy of what is available.
What kind of runtime are we looking at with the 8 × 18650’s? Kinda interested in this if the runtime is good.
Runtime will depend on how bright you have it set. More output = more power naturally, just no way around that basic rule.
Far as actual runtime, I have not tested it exactly but I did let it run on turbo until LVP to test the thermal properties of the light.
Off the top of my head it was around ~1-1.5 hours till LVP kicked in but I did not time it and it was some time ago so take that with a heaping helping of salt.
Hi. I filled out the form but I checked my email and I don’t see any emails about a list of my answers as the form says I will get? Will it take a while or do I need to fill it out again?
“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain
…
After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards
The specs in the OP are in fact approximately what the final numbers should be as delivered from lumintop with the dome on.
Wow, that surprises even me!
Your old throw numbers that must have been with the modded buck driver which was not pushing the emitter as hard.
So with the dome sliced off we are looking at around 1780 meters.
Correct, I only got the TA prototype drivers for this light a few weeks ago and the production samples tested like 2 weeks ago.
Makes a pretty big difference with ~9-10A vs 6A.
VOB’s numbers line up pretty well with mine as well, so they should be pretty close.
I have not tested a de-domed version of the light with the TA driver yet that I can remember so the only numbers we have there are from VOB. I guessing 750kcd on the low side.
It will be a bit lower then VOB since he was using a 6000k emitter and meter bias causes it to read higher.
The light I tested yesterday was on the new Sphere calibration as well and using a Dr meter for the lux numbers.
Hi. I filled out the form but I checked my email and I don’t see any emails about a list of my answers as the form says I will get? Will it take a while or do I need to fill it out again?
Give it a little time and if still nothing then I am guessing that the email address was not correct.
Let me know if this is the case and I will remove the old entry from the list.
What kind of runtime are we looking at with the 8 × 18650’s? Kinda interested in this if the runtime is good.
Runtime will depend on how bright you have it set. More output = more power naturally, just no way around that basic rule.
Far as actual runtime, I have not tested it exactly but I did let it run on turbo until LVP to test the thermal properties of the light.
Off the top of my head it was around ~1-1.5 hours till LVP kicked in but I did not time it and it was some time ago so take that with a heaping helping of salt.
In the low modes it would last months.
Thank you sir. That is actually much better than I was expecting. I was thinking maybe 20mins max at full brightness.
What kind of runtime are we looking at with the 8 × 18650’s? Kinda interested in this if the runtime is good.
Runtime will depend on how bright you have it set. More output = more power naturally, just no way around that basic rule.
Far as actual runtime, I have not tested it exactly but I did let it run on turbo until LVP to test the thermal properties of the light.
Off the top of my head it was around ~1-1.5 hours till LVP kicked in but I did not time it and it was some time ago so take that with a heaping helping of salt.
In the low modes it would last months.
Thank you sir. That is actually much better than I was expecting. I was thinking maybe 20mins max at full brightness.
At full brightness, that is about right, although it is direct driver so it will be dropping brightness as time goes along.
Remember the above estimate were till LVP, aka the batteries were dead.
Some basic math says we have a total of ~6000ma with both cell carriers filled with 30Q’s.
If we are pulling 9A, then on paper the cells should last around 40 mins.
Although in the real world with the power dropping 20 minutes at turbo before you notice it dimming is a good guess and then keep running for another hour+or so until it hits LVP.
Filled the form, in for:
1x GT70 NW
1x conversion kit NW
1x spare lens
8× 30Q cells
Sadly the savings of leaving out the battery tube and carriers would be minimal, maybe $30, the bulk of the cost is the head so it doesn’t make a lot of sense to sell it separately.
Remember that both the head and the reflector start out as big solid hunks of aluminum, that is a lot of cost and machine work.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
The issue here is that many people have a big problem opening up the GT, so it could lead to more issues then it fixes. Otherwise this is what would of been offered instead of the kit.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Thanks, I will update that in a little bit
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Impressive way you are setting this up TA!! Very impressive compared to previous Group Buys….
Google Form submitted for:
………..
Also if Neutral White is between 5000K – 5500K that will be good. Otherwise CW for me.
………………………………………..
From Google form
Neutral white – 4000k – 5500k
Cool White – 5700k and above
Warm White – 3700k and below
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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That was a mis-understanding. The specs in the OP are in fact approximately what the final numbers should be as delivered from lumintop with the dome on.
In fact I am actually under-rating them since we do not know the exact LED model yet. If for some reason they can not get P2 bin emitters, then the numbers might have to be adjusted. We will know more in a week or 2 when they find some LED options.
I tested a P2 bin 5700k light just yesterday and the numbers posted are a good bit under-rated from what I got to give some wiggle room.
It is a TA V2 driver that replaces the 7135’s with a resistor bank. 7135’s die at 12V and do not like 6V so I have to find another option and after a lot of testing and prototyping this has proved to work very well.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
The lumens and throw ratings at this point are only an educated estimate as we have not found the production LED yet but based on my own testing and VOB’s among others, these numbers are well within reason. Worst case we can go with some P2 5700k emitters hit them.
The only real trick is finding a 5000k P2 bin, these are harder to find and I have not tested them yet obviously.
If people would prefer I can under-rate the ratings even more for the time being or just remove them entirely until we find the production LED and get some hard numbers. Although I am pretty sure they will be within ~10% of the numbers I posted if they are P2 binned.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I filled the form for:
1 flashlight
neutral white
with batteries
extra glass plate
no other extras
Signed for 2 conversion kits. Is there a way to see the sign up results in google? IE total number of people etc?
For the Cool LEDs. My 2 cents is to absolutely go as cool as possible. Especially since a de-dome will lower the temp. I cant even tell you how many people have been blowing up my email because they want the laser like effect generated by the cool white.
Fasttech has P2 6000k emitters. The exact emitter I used for my build.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10036285/7908500-cree-xhp70-2-p2-1a-...
In Him (Jesus Christ) was life; and the life was the light of men. And the light shineth in darkness; and the darkness comprehended it not.
http://asflashlights.com/ Everyday Carry Flashlights, plus Upgrades for Maglite.
What kind of runtime are we looking at with the 8 × 18650’s? Kinda interested in this if the runtime is good.
Yes, it is all going into a spreadsheet now. When I have some free time I am going to figure out a way to transfer that over to the OP on a semi-regular basis so peopple can keep track of it.
Or I might also get a screen shot of the summery like this, although it doesn’t show the exact numbers:
We are still in the very early stages of looking for LED’s. What options there end up being will really depend on what we can find. I really want to stick with P2 bin so we are kind of at the mercy of what is available.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Interested in one NW. Thanks!
Runtime will depend on how bright you have it set. More output = more power naturally, just no way around that basic rule.
Far as actual runtime, I have not tested it exactly but I did let it run on turbo until LVP to test the thermal properties of the light.
Off the top of my head it was around ~1-1.5 hours till LVP kicked in but I did not time it and it was some time ago so take that with a heaping helping of salt.
In the low modes it would last months.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Wow, that surprises even me!
Your old throw numbers that must have been with the modded buck driver which was not pushing the emitter as hard.
So with the dome sliced off we are looking at around 1780 meters.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
1 x GT Conversion Kit (NW)
1 x Reflector ?
1 x Lens ?
Thanks
Hi. I filled out the form but I checked my email and I don’t see any emails about a list of my answers as the form says I will get? Will it take a while or do I need to fill it out again?
Brighter every day!
Filled form,
1 Giggle Monster 4000k tint
1 Conversion Kit
1 lens maybe
“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain
…
After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards
Correct, I only got the TA prototype drivers for this light a few weeks ago and the production samples tested like 2 weeks ago.
Makes a pretty big difference with ~9-10A vs 6A.
VOB’s numbers line up pretty well with mine as well, so they should be pretty close.
I have not tested a de-domed version of the light with the TA driver yet that I can remember so the only numbers we have there are from VOB. I guessing 750kcd on the low side.
It will be a bit lower then VOB since he was using a 6000k emitter and meter bias causes it to read higher.
The light I tested yesterday was on the new Sphere calibration as well and using a Dr meter for the lux numbers.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Give it a little time and if still nothing then I am guessing that the email address was not correct.
Let me know if this is the case and I will remove the old entry from the list.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Filled the form,
1x conversion kit
interested in lens and reflector
Robert
Thank you sir. That is actually much better than I was expecting. I was thinking maybe 20mins max at full brightness.
I’m just wondering what is the purpose of getting a separate lens?
For spare if you accidentally break it.
I wonder more on a reflector.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
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My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
At full brightness, that is about right, although it is direct driver so it will be dropping brightness as time goes along.
Remember the above estimate were till LVP, aka the batteries were dead.
Some basic math says we have a total of ~6000ma with both cell carriers filled with 30Q’s.
If we are pulling 9A, then on paper the cells should last around 40 mins.
Although in the real world with the power dropping 20 minutes at turbo before you notice it dimming is a good guess and then keep running for another hour+or so until it hits LVP.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Summited the form:
1 conversion kit.
4000-5000k
8 30Qs depending on price.
May be interested in a spare lense.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
So, when are we going to push for a triple mcpcb and reflector?
Will the MCPCB be copper for the 70.2? I’m thinking that should better protect the overdriven 70.2 and can maintain higher lumen output.
Yes, it will of course it will be a direct thermal path copper mcpcb.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Only triple?
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
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