I’m fairly sure it will shut down, and I don’t believe you’ll be able to push the 30Q’s to far, you can run this light on 4 batteries, actually I think it will run on one if I recall. I can assure you that there’s nothing to worry about especially when TA is behind the drivers functions.
I read the user manual and didn’t find mention of auto shut-off when battery voltage is low.
I think that information is worth inclusion in the user manual if Lumintop decided to revise the user manual.
Gives the user more fun in using the flashlight knowing that it will auto shut-off or give some conspicuous signal like flashing of light when the battery voltage reached a certain low-voltage level.
I don’t know what will happen If I let the flashlight drain the batteries down in use. Will it explode in my hands?
When voltage reaches 3v it will blink 3 times and step down to a lower level. I think it will shut off the light completely at 2.8v. (Don’t qoute me on the exact voltage) So there is no chance of over discharging the cells.
There is a small amount of parasitic drain when off, though. So if you don’t plan to use the light for several months, it’s best to turn the tail cap to cut all power.
The emitter is 12v so you have to have at least 4 cells in a carrier. The other carrier can be empty if you want.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Newlumen, are those Astro’s on both ends?
If so how are they ? Been looking at those and thinking about getting one but really they look like knockoff GT’s, still tempted though.. ha ha
I’m Addicted to anything that lights up.
Yes.. astrolux mf04 xhp35 cw and mf04s xhp70.2 cw.. mf04s is really nice light but little bit green… lumen spec is very similiar to blf gt70…
I’m fairly sure it will shut down, and I don’t believe you’ll be able to push the 30Q’s to far, you can run this light on 4 batteries, actually I think it will run on one if I recall. I can assure you that there’s nothing to worry about especially when TA is behind the drivers functions.
I read the user manual and didn’t find mention of auto shut-off when battery voltage is low.
I think that information is worth inclusion in the user manual if Lumintop decided to revise the user manual.
Gives the user more fun in using the flashlight knowing that it will auto shut-off or give some conspicuous signal like flashing of light when the battery voltage reached a certain low-voltage level.
I don’t know what will happen If I let the flashlight drain the batteries down in use. Will it explode in my hands?
you probably won’t have any hands if it explodes ….
Newlumen, are those Astro’s on both ends?
If so how are they ? Been looking at those and thinking about getting one but really they look like knockoff GT’s, still tempted though.. ha ha
I’m Addicted to anything that lights up.
Yes.. astrolux mf04 xhp35 cw and mf04s xhp70.2 cw.. mf04s is really nice light but little bit green… lumen spec is very similiar to blf gt70…
Thanks for the info Newlumen, I think I’m going to pass on those as tempted as I am, I am getting way to many huge lights lately but I’m darn happy that’s for sure.
Is purchasing flashlights tax deductible on my income tax, ha ha Mr. JASON.. ha ha ha
Hey Verge on the first page of the user manual titled Safety precautions which was for the GT XHP35 but same thing as the GT70 it says on section 4,
Remove and recharge cells when the low voltage indications is given by the GT (repeated step-downs in light levels and eventual shutdown of the light.)
Direct quote for you friend, so have fun and no worries..
I missed that, my bad.
Good to know, thanks for pointing that out to me.
My mind is stuck in the Sofirn text of its battery low-voltage protection.
you probably won’t have any hands if it explodes ….
I remember reading in one of the posts in this forum or at the other forum some years ago about rechargable lithium batteries exploding inside the flashlight.
The explosion caused the flashlight’s end cap to shoot out like a bullet and fortunately just hit a wall.
When voltage reaches 3v it will blink 3 times and step down to a lower level. I think it will shut off the light completely at 2.8v. (Don’t qoute me on the exact voltage) So there is no chance of over discharging the cells.
There is a small amount of parasitic drain when off, though. So if you don’t plan to use the light for several months, it’s best to turn the tail cap to cut all power.
The emitter is 12v so you have to have at least 4 cells in a carrier. The other carrier can be empty if you want.
Thanks for the information JasonWW. That gives me more confidence in using the BLF GT70 flashlight.
That technical information is worth including in the BLF GT70 User Manual.
More information about the safety features of the BLF GT70 is worth passing on to the users.
you probably won’t have any hands if it explodes ….
I remember reading in one of the posts in this forum or at the other forum some years ago about rechargable lithium batteries exploding inside the flashlight.
The explosion caused the flashlight’s end cap to shoot out like a bullet and fortunately just hit a wall.
The story I saw on the other forums was where the light got insanely hot all of a sudden so the user dropped it at which point it blew up and ended up putting a pretty big dent in the bottom track (likely alloy) of their sliding door from the end cap or the head shooting off under immense pressure. They then had to deal with hydrofluoric acid inhalation and potential poisoning. Not fun.
I think battery technology has come a long way since then so I am not overly worried. You’ll hear of vapers popping their toys before us flashaholics!
Picked up in Singapore late Friday night (AEST) and delivered today, Monday, at about 1pm. Not bad DHL! Obviously it went out after the US shipments or the service they used to get it to DHL in Singapore was a bit slow. Either way, I can’t complain about that!
So..the GT70..hmm what a beast. My biggest light up until now was a Thrunite TN40 which is just dwarfed by this gigantic monster.
As for springs, mine all seem fine. Ordered batteries seperate so obviously no damaged cells.
The lens had a big spot of moisture (looked foggy like some lights get after a while on high) on the inside of the lens, dead centre, about 3cm in diameter. Turning on the light for a few seconds of turbo a couple of times and it has disappeared. I’ll keep an eye on that, hopefully don’t have to use some silica gel packs to dry it out.
Now, onto the reflector, there is a noticeable deformity on the coating but doesn’t appear to show up in use. It looks like a tiny ripple and has to be moved around to be seen but if you know it is there, it is really easy to spot. I am less concerned about this than the possible moisture trapped in the head but will have a better look when it gets dark to see if I can see any artifacts in the beam. From what I have heard about the past issues with original GT release, this is nothing to worry about as some of those were reportedly quite bad. I don’t have a good camera and my galaxy S9 doesn’t pick the defect up unfortunately or I would share images.
@TK
Oh, you made the shirt the wrong way.
Text and pics on a shirt like this need to be upside down, so you can read it.
I didn’t make the shirt. People did discuss printing it upside-down though, to make it easier to read while wearing it.
After people received the lights they ordered, and were able to try the interface, the shirt thing really faded away. People thought at first it would be complicated or confusing to use, but then they tried it and realized it’s simple. So, no need for a wearable reference chart.
I remember reading in one of the posts in this forum or at the other forum some years ago about rechargable lithium batteries exploding inside the flashlight.
The explosion caused the flashlight’s end cap to shoot out like a bullet and fortunately just hit a wall.
It all depends on the lithium chemistry. An IMR is only going to leak at worst when overdischarged when a LiCo is going to vent/ignite.
I’m fairly sure it will shut down, and I don’t believe you’ll be able to push the 30Q’s to far, you can run this light on 4 batteries, actually I think it will run on one if I recall. I can assure you that there’s nothing to worry about especially when TA is behind the drivers functions.
I read the user manual and didn’t find mention of auto shut-off when battery voltage is low.
I think that information is worth inclusion in the user manual if Lumintop decided to revise the user manual.
Gives the user more fun in using the flashlight knowing that it will auto shut-off or give some conspicuous signal like flashing of light when the battery voltage reached a certain low-voltage level.
I don’t know what will happen If I let the flashlight drain the batteries down in use. Will it explode in my hands?
When voltage reaches 3v it will blink 3 times and step down to a lower level. I think it will shut off the light completely at 2.8v. (Don’t qoute me on the exact voltage) So there is no chance of over discharging the cells.
There is a small amount of parasitic drain when off, though. So if you don’t plan to use the light for several months, it’s best to turn the tail cap to cut all power.
The emitter is 12v so you have to have at least 4 cells in a carrier. The other carrier can be empty if you want.
Yep, that^.
It does have alow voltage protection so you should not have any problems with cells getting too low as long as all 4 cells in each carrier match.
While you can use only 4 cells in the GT70, it is best to use 8 cells since it draws a lot more power then the normal GT.
It all depends on the lithium chemistry. An IMR is only going to leak at worst when overdischarged when a LiCo is going to vent/ignite.
The toxic lithium chemical leaks or fumes are things I want to avoid happening near me or in my house.
The bad effects to the body of the lithium chemicals or fumes and cleanup of the toxic mess are not fun things to me.
If I can’t use protected lithium batteries, it’s comforting to know that my flashlight have safety features that would prevent the battery from over-discharge that may cause those unwanted events.
I feel more confident in using this flashlight after reading JasonWW’s detailed explanation of the BLF GT70’s safety features.
I’m going to ask one more time. Are there any plans to offer spare parts for the GT70?. Like switches, driver boards, lenses, etc? It’s an expensive flashlight. I want to be able to fix it if something goes wrong.
I’m going to ask one more time. Are there any plans to offer spare parts for the GT70?. Like switches, driver boards, lenses, etc? It’s an expensive flashlight. I want to be able to fix it if something goes wrong.
The conversion kit is as close as we will get to most of that. It does include the driver, mcpcb, LED, switch and centering ring.
I’m going to ask one more time. Are there any plans to offer spare parts for the GT70?. Like switches, driver boards, lenses, etc? It’s an expensive flashlight. I want to be able to fix it if something goes wrong.
The conversion kit is as close as we will get to most of that. It does include the driver, mcpcb, LED, switch and centering ring.
The dent is clearly visible on the reflector and also on the white ceiling.
a shadow in the corona at 8 o’clock:
Even if the effect on the output will not be very high, I am not very happy to get a B-grade reflector..
Could it be, that Lumintop is now using reflectors that have been rejected in previous batches?
Maybe they can send me a flawless one….
That is a very strange issues, I have not seen that before on a quality reflector like this.
It is also something that would easily slip through QC unless you were looking for it so pretty much positive that it is just a case of someone not seeing it and not lumintop using lower grade parts.
Contact leo for sure, they should send you a replacement.
That is a very strange issues, I have not seen that before on a quality reflector like this. It is also something that would easily slip through QC unless you were looking for it so pretty much positive that it is just a case of someone not seeing it and not lumintop using lower grade parts. Contact leo for sure, they should send you a replacement.
Yes, I have not seen anything like this before, either...
Boy that would be horrific to find out that we are getting factory second lights and BG is getting the A+ lights, just a thought because there is no way I could see Lumin ever doing that to us.
I see this product everywhere for sale and I always thought that when our team designs and has a GB that our members are all taken care of first and then it goes for public sales, I could be wrong or maybe a different agreement was made.
I’ve been fortunate since the first run and have gotten some pretty good reflectors compared to what I’ve seen in some pics since Dec. 2017, still has some spin ripples I believe it is but you have to look close for them.
And Lumin said they are worried about shipping a reflector by itself, it might get damaged, perhaps they should worry about shipping reflectors in the lights as well.?
Only thing that got me was those darn springs, had one stab deep into my finger the other night while looking for the springs that messed up some of my cells, 3 out of 8 cells I’ve gotten rid of and I bought 16 new from Liions, also been using my small file to file down the ends of all my springs to remove a 45 degree angled cut on the wire ends, that angle made those very sharp and some were turned upward not your normal 90 degree bend and that’s what caused what you saw in that one picture, that one spring could have worked a hole through that negative end for sure eventually, then I used my Smith Little torch to direct heat and bend the spring wire back down where it should have been, fairly difficult to do.
So that should fix my spring problems, nice and smooth now and all around fantastic light, now I just need to find a different LED,
I think I’ll get in touch with RMM and see if he will do the same thing he offered for the XHP35’s…
Thank you again TA for all your very hard work on this project, it is greatly appreciated..!!
My reflector looks a lot like the one Kingjohn posted. Obviously it isn’t as severe as it doesn’t show up in use, even when held close to the wall.
I have noticed the lens fogging quite a bit but I also noticed there is a hole in thr driver..
TA, DO YOUKNOW IF THEHEADSAREFULLYSEALED? Would cracking the bezel open and putting it in a container with some silica gel be an option or will moisture in thr air just get back into the body each battery change?
The beam on mine is quite good, a bit cool but that was to be expected since I am more a NW fan. The ceilijg bounce app runtime function gave me a reading 4839 for 4×30Qs and 5186 with 8×30Qs. I should have tested the drop at 30s but am happy they are that close to start with.
One weird thing I noticed is the light clicking as it heats up and then subsequently cools off. Kinda like a the popping and clicking sound a tin roof makes when it undergoes thermal expansion/contraction. Anyone else notice this on theirs?
With all the minor “issues” I am still really happy with the light.
GREATJOB TO TA ANDEVERYONEELSEINVOLVED!! Can’t wait to crack it open and dedome the LED and see what happens. Will likely order the NW when available and just leave it as-is.
I see this product everywhere for sale and I always thought that when our team designs and has a GB that our members are all taken care of first and then it goes for public sales, I could be wrong or maybe a different agreement was made.
That was changed this time around and I see it staying that way in the future. In the GT group buy a very disproportionate number of issues were the mere rumors that the light might go on sale somewhere else. Even though it was never said that BLF got first dibs, only that they got the group buy price.
I now make this clear in the OP to eliminate these issues and this is not an issue since lumintop has enough lights to go around this time, so they can fulfill all the orders equally.
Not to worry about one place getting better quality then another. All of the lights are in one giant batch and are not graded at lumintop. The individual parts either pass or fail QC. If they fail. they are sent back to the factory. This is why we could not get the rejected reflector from the first GT group buy.
My reflector looks a lot like the one Kingjohn posted. Obviously it isn’t as severe as it doesn’t show up in use, even when held close to the wall.
I have noticed the lens fogging quite a bit but I also noticed there is a hole in thr driver..
TA, DO YOUKNOW IF THEHEADSAREFULLYSEALED? Would cracking the bezel open and putting it in a container with some silica gel be an option or will moisture in thr air just get back into the body each battery change?
The beam on mine is quite good, a bit cool but that was to be expected since I am more a NW fan. The ceilijg bounce app runtime function gave me a reading 4839 for 4×30Qs and 5186 with 8×30Qs. I should have tested the drop at 30s but am happy they are that close to start with.
One weird thing I noticed is the light clicking as it heats up and then subsequently cools off. Kinda like a the popping and clicking sound a tin roof makes when it undergoes thermal expansion/contraction. Anyone else notice this on theirs?
With all the minor “issues” I am still really happy with the light.
GREATJOB TO TA ANDEVERYONEELSEINVOLVED!! Can’t wait to crack it open and dedome the LED and see what happens. Will likely order the NW when available and just leave it as-is.
The heads are almost sealed, the driver is just held in place by a retaining ring and there is a hole as you noted but when the light is fully assembled it is effectively sealed.
Yes, putting it in a container with some silica could indeed help.
The clicking is normal, it is just the metal expanding with the heat, this is much more noticeable on a large light like this.
If you can not see the imperfection in the beam even when held close to the wall, then it will have virtually no effect on the performance of the light. I have been surprised with even fairly large imperfections having little effect in the past.
When voltage reaches 3v it will blink 3 times and step down to a lower level. I think it will shut off the light completely at 2.8v. (Don’t qoute me on the exact voltage) So there is no chance of over discharging the cells.
There is a small amount of parasitic drain when off, though. So if you don’t plan to use the light for several months, it’s best to turn the tail cap to cut all power.
The emitter is 12v so you have to have at least 4 cells in a carrier. The other carrier can be empty if you want.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yes.. astrolux mf04 xhp35 cw and mf04s xhp70.2 cw.. mf04s is really nice light but little bit green… lumen spec is very similiar to blf gt70…
you probably won’t have any hands if it explodes
…. 
You can see the LVP work in this video at 2:05.
Different light, but same firmware.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Thanks for the info Newlumen, I think I’m going to pass on those as tempted as I am, I am getting way to many huge lights lately but I’m darn happy that’s for sure.
Is purchasing flashlights tax deductible on my income tax, ha ha Mr. JASON.. ha ha ha
I missed that, my bad.
Good to know, thanks for pointing that out to me.
My mind is stuck in the Sofirn text of its battery low-voltage protection.
I remember reading in one of the posts in this forum or at the other forum some years ago about rechargable lithium batteries exploding inside the flashlight.
The explosion caused the flashlight’s end cap to shoot out like a bullet and fortunately just hit a wall.
Thanks for the information JasonWW. That gives me more confidence in using the BLF GT70 flashlight.
That technical information is worth including in the BLF GT70 User Manual.
More information about the safety features of the BLF GT70 is worth passing on to the users.
Loving my original BLF GT. In for a NW model and a conversion kit.
BLF GT, GT70 and LT1; Olight S20R, SR Mini II, SR52-UT, i3E EOS i1R EOS, i1R 2 EOS; Jaxman U1 UV
The story I saw on the other forums was where the light got insanely hot all of a sudden so the user dropped it at which point it blew up and ended up putting a pretty big dent in the bottom track (likely alloy) of their sliding door from the end cap or the head shooting off under immense pressure. They then had to deal with hydrofluoric acid inhalation and potential poisoning. Not fun.
I think battery technology has come a long way since then so I am not overly worried. You’ll hear of vapers popping their toys before us flashaholics!
…AND SO MY GT70 HAS ARRIVED!!!
Picked up in Singapore late Friday night (AEST) and delivered today, Monday, at about 1pm. Not bad DHL! Obviously it went out after the US shipments or the service they used to get it to DHL in Singapore was a bit slow. Either way, I can’t complain about that!
So..the GT70..hmm what a beast. My biggest light up until now was a Thrunite TN40 which is just dwarfed by this gigantic monster.
As for springs, mine all seem fine. Ordered batteries seperate so obviously no damaged cells.
The lens had a big spot of moisture (looked foggy like some lights get after a while on high) on the inside of the lens, dead centre, about 3cm in diameter. Turning on the light for a few seconds of turbo a couple of times and it has disappeared. I’ll keep an eye on that, hopefully don’t have to use some silica gel packs to dry it out.
Now, onto the reflector, there is a noticeable deformity on the coating but doesn’t appear to show up in use. It looks like a tiny ripple and has to be moved around to be seen but if you know it is there, it is really easy to spot. I am less concerned about this than the possible moisture trapped in the head but will have a better look when it gets dark to see if I can see any artifacts in the beam. From what I have heard about the past issues with original GT release, this is nothing to worry about as some of those were reportedly quite bad. I don’t have a good camera and my galaxy S9 doesn’t pick the defect up unfortunately or I would share images.
I didn’t make the shirt. People did discuss printing it upside-down though, to make it easier to read while wearing it.
After people received the lights they ordered, and were able to try the interface, the shirt thing really faded away. People thought at first it would be complicated or confusing to use, but then they tried it and realized it’s simple. So, no need for a wearable reference chart.
It all depends on the lithium chemistry. An IMR is only going to leak at worst when overdischarged when a LiCo is going to vent/ignite.
Yep, that^.
It does have alow voltage protection so you should not have any problems with cells getting too low as long as all 4 cells in each carrier match.
While you can use only 4 cells in the GT70, it is best to use 8 cells since it draws a lot more power then the normal GT.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
The toxic lithium chemical leaks or fumes are things I want to avoid happening near me or in my house.
The bad effects to the body of the lithium chemicals or fumes and cleanup of the toxic mess are not fun things to me.
If I can’t use protected lithium batteries, it’s comforting to know that my flashlight have safety features that would prevent the battery from over-discharge that may cause those unwanted events.
I feel more confident in using this flashlight after reading JasonWW’s detailed explanation of the BLF GT70’s safety features.
I’m in for one.
Completed the form for:
1 x GT70 (NW)
2 x Carriers
1 x Reflector (Maybe)
1 x Lens (Maybe)
8 x Batteries
Would also like to get a case and a strap.
I’m going to ask one more time. Are there any plans to offer spare parts for the GT70?. Like switches, driver boards, lenses, etc? It’s an expensive flashlight. I want to be able to fix it if something goes wrong.
Boycott Nike
The conversion kit is as close as we will get to most of that. It does include the driver, mcpcb, LED, switch and centering ring.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
In for one GT70 NW and batteries. Thank you for a great addition to the original!
gman7228
There are 10 kinds of people in the world. Those that understand binary notation and those that do not.
Thanks pal
Boycott Nike
Got my GT70 today, one day earlier than planned. (taxes and fees: ~70.- USD, so less than expected)
Output really is impressive, still have to do some measurements (just using ceilingbounce)
Included are the already expecting narrow battery carriers and unfortunately a reflector in a not so mint condition....
There seems to be a dent on the reflector.
I have shot some pictures to display the issue, all of which can be found in this album:
BLF GT reflector issue Pictures
The dent is clearly visible on the reflector and also on the white ceiling.
a shadow in the corona at 8 o'clock:
Even if the effect on the output will not be very high, I am not very happy to get a B-grade reflector..
Could it be, that Lumintop is now using reflectors that have been rejected in previous batches?
Maybe they can send me a flawless one....
Usually blemishes affect the beam, but since yours does affect the beam, you should ask for a replacement reflector to be shipped.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
That is a very strange issues, I have not seen that before on a quality reflector like this.
It is also something that would easily slip through QC unless you were looking for it so pretty much positive that it is just a case of someone not seeing it and not lumintop using lower grade parts.
Contact leo for sure, they should send you a replacement.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I have sent a mail to leo now...
I think yours just slipped through QC. A bad break for you, but nothing more.
They should definitely make it right though.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Boy that would be horrific to find out that we are getting factory second lights and BG is getting the A+ lights, just a thought because there is no way I could see Lumin ever doing that to us.
I see this product everywhere for sale and I always thought that when our team designs and has a GB that our members are all taken care of first and then it goes for public sales, I could be wrong or maybe a different agreement was made.
I’ve been fortunate since the first run and have gotten some pretty good reflectors compared to what I’ve seen in some pics since Dec. 2017, still has some spin ripples I believe it is but you have to look close for them.
And Lumin said they are worried about shipping a reflector by itself, it might get damaged, perhaps they should worry about shipping reflectors in the lights as well.?
Only thing that got me was those darn springs, had one stab deep into my finger the other night while looking for the springs that messed up some of my cells, 3 out of 8 cells I’ve gotten rid of and I bought 16 new from Liions, also been using my small file to file down the ends of all my springs to remove a 45 degree angled cut on the wire ends, that angle made those very sharp and some were turned upward not your normal 90 degree bend and that’s what caused what you saw in that one picture, that one spring could have worked a hole through that negative end for sure eventually, then I used my Smith Little torch to direct heat and bend the spring wire back down where it should have been, fairly difficult to do.
So that should fix my spring problems, nice and smooth now and all around fantastic light, now I just need to find a different LED,
I think I’ll get in touch with RMM and see if he will do the same thing he offered for the XHP35’s…
Thank you again TA for all your very hard work on this project, it is greatly appreciated..!!
My reflector looks a lot like the one Kingjohn posted. Obviously it isn’t as severe as it doesn’t show up in use, even when held close to the wall.
I have noticed the lens fogging quite a bit but I also noticed there is a hole in thr driver..
TA, DO YOU KNOW IF THE HEADS ARE FULLY SEALED? Would cracking the bezel open and putting it in a container with some silica gel be an option or will moisture in thr air just get back into the body each battery change?
The beam on mine is quite good, a bit cool but that was to be expected since I am more a NW fan. The ceilijg bounce app runtime function gave me a reading 4839 for 4×30Qs and 5186 with 8×30Qs. I should have tested the drop at 30s but am happy they are that close to start with.
One weird thing I noticed is the light clicking as it heats up and then subsequently cools off. Kinda like a the popping and clicking sound a tin roof makes when it undergoes thermal expansion/contraction. Anyone else notice this on theirs?
With all the minor “issues” I am still really happy with the light.
GREAT JOB TO TA AND EVERYONE ELSE INVOLVED!! Can’t wait to crack it open and dedome the LED and see what happens. Will likely order the NW when available and just leave it as-is.
That was changed this time around and I see it staying that way in the future. In the GT group buy a very disproportionate number of issues were the mere rumors that the light might go on sale somewhere else. Even though it was never said that BLF got first dibs, only that they got the group buy price.
I now make this clear in the OP to eliminate these issues and this is not an issue since lumintop has enough lights to go around this time, so they can fulfill all the orders equally.
Not to worry about one place getting better quality then another. All of the lights are in one giant batch and are not graded at lumintop. The individual parts either pass or fail QC. If they fail. they are sent back to the factory. This is why we could not get the rejected reflector from the first GT group buy.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
The heads are almost sealed, the driver is just held in place by a retaining ring and there is a hole as you noted but when the light is fully assembled it is effectively sealed.
Yes, putting it in a container with some silica could indeed help.
The clicking is normal, it is just the metal expanding with the heat, this is much more noticeable on a large light like this.
If you can not see the imperfection in the beam even when held close to the wall, then it will have virtually no effect on the performance of the light. I have been surprised with even fairly large imperfections having little effect in the past.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Apart from the defective reflector, the output of my GT70 is great.
I did some ceilingbounce measurements comparisons in a very small room with white walls (guess where
)
Then calibrated the setup, so that the Acebeam K60 closely matched 5000lm...
So those numbers are more like aproximations and comparison numbers...
I used a Samsung Galaxy S7 to run the app "ceilingbounce" on....
Here my results (all on turbo/maximum output):
I was positively surprised, that the GT70 reaches >9000lm. Maybe the new carriers are a not so bad idea and do fulfill their purpose?
But the GT70 is going down quite fast, immediately after switch on from 9700 to ~9000lm in a few seconds...
I was using 8 fully charged 30Qs in the GT70.
K60 and GT are quite stable after switch on... (GT only had 4 full 30Qs loaded)
(the same setup returned 25klm and 30klm earlier, testing my Acebeam X80 and Imalent DX80, so I think its good enough for comparing flashlights.)
Some GT/GT70 Beamshots (using a Galaxy S9, unfortunately done using auto exposure, so both show similar brightness, though the GT70 is much brighter):
Control:
BLF GT (1/2):
BLF GT (1/2):
BLF GT70 (1/2):
BLF GT70 (2/2):
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