Thanks for the beamshots.. last week when I got my blf gt70 and I seem some hint of green.. green tint disappears or less noticeable this week. Maybe led get break in or my eyes..
Thanks for the beamshots.. last week when I got my blf gt70 and I seem some hint of green.. green tint disappears or less noticeable this week. Maybe led get break in or my eyes..
I can see green color in the corona only. And only at lower output…
Maybe because at high output I get blind and no longer see anything at all on a white wall
The one on the left is the dome on I am guessing? Since it has a larger hotspot.
It is strange that the dedomed version seems to have less tint shift.
On one hand this makes sense, the dome is responsible for part of the tint shift we see.
On the other hand I have always seen the tint shift towards green/yellow when dedoming.
The left spot in this pic is the de-domed GT.
Don’t be perplexed, the tint shit in the lower modes is horrendous, I can’t stand it. But from 50%-100% power it is a massive change in tint. Get rid of the phosphorous around the LED and the corona is greatly reduced on a shaved dome, complete de-domed LED, barely a ring, usually a blue halo from the sides of the LED die.
Now the clean de-domed LED only measures 6,200lm, it was making 8,500-8,800 depending on what batteries I used, before I shaved it really close (meh too close I guess) and diced the pad clean, but then after a couple Turbo blast, it started to burn, so I completely de-domed it. Smoked up my reflector a bit.
I just mostly run it in Turbo!
If it dies…. it dies….
Left is clearly the dedomed one in the second pic, just looks bigger in the first pic probably due to higher spot brightness.
Also very clear tint shift to warm white/yellow.
There’s a lot of lumens being lost from slicing the sides off of the phosphor, since the phosphor on the sides of the LED also gets excited.
Left is clearly the dedomed one in the second pic, just looks bigger in the first pic probably due to higher spot brightness.
Also very clear tint shift to warm white/yellow.
There’s a lot of lumens being lost from slicing the sides off of the phosphor, since the phosphor on the sides of the LED also gets excited.
The right spot is the de-domed in this pic. Bluish halo around the spot, Brown/Yellow around the dome on.
Hi,
is it possible to be set on list for one conversion kit in NW.
Maybe NW dedomed?
Is output like in video in post #2: XHP70.2 Dedomed plus Mosfet?
Thanks a lot.
Hi,
is it possible to be set on list for one conversion kit in NW.
Maybe NW dedomed?
Is output like in video in post #2: XHP70.2 Dedomed plus Mosfet?
Thanks a lot.
You just need to fill out the form in post #1 to get on the list.
Dedoming (technically slicing the dome off) is not a factory option. You will have to do that yourself. I think I’ve posted two videos of Vestureofblood doing it.
If your going to slice off the dome, the color becomes warmer, so it’s suggested by Texas_Ace to start with the Cool White.
Output will be like the video.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
You just need to fill out the form in post #1 to get on the list.
Thanks, I´ve filled it out.
Warmer Tint about 4000K would be great, so If I order one 5000K, it will be good for me after slicing.
sorry for stupid question. What output modes have TA driver V2 for this light?
And will be the illuminated switch also illuminated after changing driver / LED?
Thanks a lot.
You just need to fill out the form in post #1 to get on the list.
Thanks, I´ve filled it out.
Warmer Tint about 4000K would be great, so If I order one 5000K, it will be good for me after slicing.
sorry for stupid question. What output modes have TA driver V2 for this light?
And will be the illuminated switch also illuminated after changing driver / LED?
Thanks a lot.
The switch light will work just the same as the stock GT.
You have the original GT light, correct? The GT70 driver will operate exactly the same. It has the same style of ramping and can also be switched to mode sets to give you low, medium and high, etc…
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
The switch light will work just the same as the stock GT.
You have the original GT light, correct? The GT70 driver will operate exactly the same. It has the same style of ramping and can also be switched to mode sets to give you low, medium and high, etc…
Yes I´ve original GT light with XHP35Hi.
So I only have to open it… ;).
Driver I´ve changed, but open the head was to hard for me… up to now… ;).
EDIT:
Quote:
BLF GT70: 9700lm
I was positively surprised, that the GT70 reaches >9000lm. Maybe the new carriers are a not so bad idea and do fulfill their purpose?
Is output with new carriers higher than with old ones?
Thanks
Guys I have a favor to ask. Can someone please test the GT70 with the 35E cells from the xhp35 version? Money is kinda short for me right now and I wanted to know if the extra 40$ for the 8× 30Q set is worth it. Already spending 55$ for the conversion kit, I really don’t wanna drop 100$ right now unless it’s absolutely necessary. I have read somewhere that the amperage per cell, using all 8 cells, would be only 5 amps. I believe the 35E is capable of delivering that without much sagging. What I wanted to know is how much output will I lose if any at all. Thanks!
Did any in the USA that ordered caps and or straps for their light receive them with their light order. I was told by email that my caps and straps would be shipped to the USA with my light order, but that did not happen. I had great communication with Leo/Lumintop prior to getting my light, but now cannot get a response concerning the accessory order. Starting to get a little concerned about ordering a NW second light as regular consumer demand ramps up.
Guys I have a favor to ask. Can someone please test the GT70 with the 35E cells from the xhp35 version? Money is kinda short for me right now and I wanted to know if the extra 40$ for the 8× 30Q set is worth it. Already spending 55$ for the conversion kit, I really don’t wanna drop 100$ right now unless it’s absolutely necessary. I have read somewhere that the amperage per cell, using all 8 cells, would be only 5 amps. I believe the 35E is capable of delivering that without much sagging. What I wanted to know is how much output will I lose if any at all. Thanks!
I don’t have Samsung 35e. I have lg mj1 which are similar to 35e.. batteries are charging.. will post lumen soon.
Guys I have a favor to ask. Can someone please test the GT70 with the 35E cells from the xhp35 version? Money is kinda short for me right now and I wanted to know if the extra 40$ for the 8× 30Q set is worth it. Already spending 55$ for the conversion kit, I really don’t wanna drop 100$ right now unless it’s absolutely necessary. I have read somewhere that the amperage per cell, using all 8 cells, would be only 5 amps. I believe the 35E is capable of delivering that without much sagging. What I wanted to know is how much output will I lose if any at all. Thanks!
The 35E’s will work fine but it will be less lumens. I am kinda curious on the exact lumen loss myself.
Sorry if I sound a little ignorant, but I’ve been on hiatus from BLF. Imagine my shock when I saw the thread, Giggle Monster? Are we getting the dedome Giggle Monster or dome version? I think I prefer the dedome version.
I retested the 30q in addition to the 35e. Both were fresh off the charger at 4.20v Each battery set had less than 5 cycles of 5 mins or less on them.
I let the light cool about 15 mins between tests. Light engine was cool to the touch at the second test start.
Same carriers used both times as well (both the correct GT70 carriers with the thicker aluminum) compared to the OG GT carriers.
30q
Start lumens 8,388
30 second lumens 7,147
35e
Start lumens 7,848
30 second lumens 7,087
Startup was about 6% lower with the 35e
30 seconds was about 0.8% lower
Good testing, this is why I use 3500ma cells for most of my lights.
Also goes to show how much of the initial drop in output is heat related and how much is voltage drop. The first 30 seconds is where the heat path gets thermally saturated, I am surprised how close the numebrs are at that point.
Sorry if I sound a little ignorant, but I’ve been on hiatus from BLF. Imagine my shock when I saw the thread, Giggle Monster? Are we getting the dedome Giggle Monster or dome version? I think I prefer the dedome version.
They will be coming with the dome on at this point, I do not trust them to slice the dome in bulk right now. It is possible they might offer some with a sliced dome later but I would not hold your breath.
In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led as it was basically the only thing available right now without an 8-12 week wait for a special production run and a minium order of 3500 pieces. The 4000k they actually wanted to do but it seems the supplier sold out of them in the last few weeks and they are no longer available
No exact time frame yet but from past experience I would say the time frame in the OP should hold, sometime in the next ~2 weeks they should go live on the lumintop website and ship a week or so later.
At which point a new wave of emails will be sent out to everyone with a (most likely) new code.
Thanks for the beamshots.. last week when I got my blf gt70 and I seem some hint of green.. green tint disappears or less noticeable this week. Maybe led get break in or my eyes..
I can see green color in the corona only. And only at lower output…
Maybe because at high output I get blind and no longer see anything at all on a white wall
I have to say, I start to like this tint…
Maybe an XHP70.2 needs a good burnin first
Here is a couple shots of my Clean De-domed XHP70.2 P2-1A 6v GT compared to the GT70 Dome on P2-1A
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
I am perplexed.
The one on the left is the dome on I am guessing? Since it has a larger hotspot.
It is strange that the dedomed version seems to have less tint shift.
On one hand this makes sense, the dome is responsible for part of the tint shift we see.
On the other hand I have always seen the tint shift towards green/yellow when dedoming.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
The left spot in this pic is the de-domed GT. Don’t be perplexed, the tint shit in the lower modes is horrendous, I can’t stand it. But from 50%-100% power it is a massive change in tint. Get rid of the phosphorous around the LED and the corona is greatly reduced on a shaved dome, complete de-domed LED, barely a ring, usually a blue halo from the sides of the LED die.
Now the clean de-domed LED only measures 6,200lm, it was making 8,500-8,800 depending on what batteries I used, before I shaved it really close (meh too close I guess) and diced the pad clean, but then after a couple Turbo blast, it started to burn, so I completely de-domed it. Smoked up my reflector a bit. I just mostly run it in Turbo! If it dies…. it dies….KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Left is clearly the dedomed one in the second pic, just looks bigger in the first pic probably due to higher spot brightness.
Also very clear tint shift to warm white/yellow.
There’s a lot of lumens being lost from slicing the sides off of the phosphor, since the phosphor on the sides of the LED also gets excited.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
The right spot is the de-domed in this pic. Bluish halo around the spot, Brown/Yellow around the dome on.
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Hi,
is it possible to be set on list for one conversion kit in NW.
Maybe NW dedomed?
Is output like in video in post #2: XHP70.2 Dedomed plus Mosfet?
Thanks a lot.
You just need to fill out the form in post #1 to get on the list.
Dedoming (technically slicing the dome off) is not a factory option. You will have to do that yourself. I think I’ve posted two videos of Vestureofblood doing it.
If your going to slice off the dome, the color becomes warmer, so it’s suggested by Texas_Ace to start with the Cool White.
Output will be like the video.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Thanks, I´ve filled it out.
Warmer Tint about 4000K would be great, so If I order one 5000K, it will be good for me after slicing.
sorry for stupid question. What output modes have TA driver V2 for this light?
And will be the illuminated switch also illuminated after changing driver / LED?
Thanks a lot.
The switch light will work just the same as the stock GT.
You have the original GT light, correct? The GT70 driver will operate exactly the same. It has the same style of ramping and can also be switched to mode sets to give you low, medium and high, etc…
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yes I´ve original GT light with XHP35Hi.
So I only have to open it… ;).
Driver I´ve changed, but open the head was to hard for me… up to now… ;).
EDIT:
Is output with new carriers higher than with old ones?
Thanks
Not done a comparison measurement yet….
But it’s a good idea! I will do it, if I find some time….
HOT OFF THE HAZG PRESS
Next Update: September 7, 2018
Guys I have a favor to ask. Can someone please test the GT70 with the 35E cells from the xhp35 version? Money is kinda short for me right now and I wanted to know if the extra 40$ for the 8× 30Q set is worth it. Already spending 55$ for the conversion kit, I really don’t wanna drop 100$ right now unless it’s absolutely necessary. I have read somewhere that the amperage per cell, using all 8 cells, would be only 5 amps. I believe the 35E is capable of delivering that without much sagging. What I wanted to know is how much output will I lose if any at all. Thanks!
There’s no replacement for displacement.
I don’t have Samsung 35e. I have lg mj1 which are similar to 35e.. batteries are charging.. will post lumen soon.
Thanks Newlumen! Very much appreciated.
There’s no replacement for displacement.
I’ll charge mine for comparison purposes too.
The 35E’s will work fine but it will be less lumens. I am kinda curious on the exact lumen loss myself.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I’m planning on using my 35E cells, but if it will be better to use high drain cells I’ll pick up a set of VTC6 cells and solder blob them.
Astrolux FT03 XHP50.2
Astrolux EC01
Astrolux EC03
Convoy M3 3000k
Sofirn SP40 5700k
Sofirn SP40 3000k
Convoy L6 Mtn Elec D4 UI driver, XHP70.2
Utorch UT02 NW
BLF Q8
BLF A6 NW
BLF GT XHP35
BLF GT70 CW
Skilhunt H03 NW
Astrolux MF02 NW
Astrolux MF01 XP-G3
Sofirn SF14
Sofirn SP32A
Emisar D4 XP-L HI CW
SK68 knockoff
Mini Mag Lite 2X AAA
Convoy M1 build (4X XPL 3V MCPCB, Mnt Elec FET driver)
I retested the 30q in addition to the 35e. Both were fresh off the charger at 4.20v Each battery set had less than 5 cycles of 5 mins or less on them.
I let the light cool about 15 mins between tests. Light engine was cool to the touch at the second test start.
Same carriers used both times as well (both the correct GT70 carriers with the thicker aluminum) compared to the OG GT carriers.
30q
Start lumens 8,388
30 second lumens 7,147
35e
Start lumens 7,848
30 second lumens 7,087
Startup was about 6% lower with the 35e
30 seconds was about 0.8% lower
I ordered Giggle Monster NW.
Sorry if I sound a little ignorant, but I’ve been on hiatus from BLF. Imagine my shock when I saw the thread, Giggle Monster? Are we getting the dedome Giggle Monster or dome version? I think I prefer the dedome version.
Blf gt 70 with 30q. 6240 lumen
Blf gt 70 lg Mj1. 6200 lumen
I only test for like 5 seconds.. so I think Samsung 35e should be fine..
Honestly i like all 4 blf gt. More powerful, and longer runtime.. i even like my blf gt xhp35 CW.
Good testing, this is why I use 3500ma cells for most of my lights.
Also goes to show how much of the initial drop in output is heat related and how much is voltage drop. The first 30 seconds is where the heat path gets thermally saturated, I am surprised how close the numebrs are at that point.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
They will be coming with the dome on at this point, I do not trust them to slice the dome in bulk right now. It is possible they might offer some with a sliced dome later but I would not hold your breath.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led as it was basically the only thing available right now without an 8-12 week wait for a special production run and a minium order of 3500 pieces. The 4000k they actually wanted to do but it seems the supplier sold out of them in the last few weeks and they are no longer available
No exact time frame yet but from past experience I would say the time frame in the OP should hold, sometime in the next ~2 weeks they should go live on the lumintop website and ship a week or so later.
At which point a new wave of emails will be sent out to everyone with a (most likely) new code.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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