The BLF GT70 "Giggle Monster" is here! 7,500lumens, 1,500m throw! Group buy Closed!

2845 posts / 0 new
Last post
square74
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 hours ago
Joined: 02/06/2014 - 03:13
Posts: 138
Location: Germany
Quote:
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2

So this would be also good for dedome.
I like warmer tint, also in Throwers.

Quote:
I’m planning on using my 35E cells, but if it will be better to use high drain cells I’ll pick up a set of VTC6 cells and solder blob them.

Same for me, I´ve a lot of VTC6 Cells and I´ve tested this with good results in other lights:
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/magnete-an-flattop-akkus-kleb...

EDIT:
Maybe soldered magnets should be better.
I´ve got some solderwire from a colleague, that should have low melting temperature.

Is this DTP MCPCB with 12V configuration available separate?
And what about the driver?

I´ve some XHP70.2 P2 LEDs.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12777
Location: Houston Texas

square74 wrote:
Quote:
I’m planning on using my 35E cells, but if it will be better to use high drain cells I’ll pick up a set of VTC6 cells and solder blob them.

Same for me, I´ve a lot of VTC6 cells and I´ve tested this with good results in other lights:
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/magnete-an-flattop-akkus-kleb...

EDIT:
Maybe soldered magnets should be better.
I´ve got some solderwire from a colleague, that should have low melting temperature.

Is this DTP MCPCB with 12V configuration available separate?
And what about the driver?

I´ve some XHP70.2 P2 LEDs.


Sony VTC6 is considered a high drain cell so it is good. The 35E has more capacity in exchange for less amperage output. Still, when you use 8 of them you don’t see such a large difference in output. If you only use 4 × 35E cells you would get a bigger drop in output.

I would not solder magnets. They have high resistance. It’s better to just blob the solder. I bought some brass buttons that are 2mm tall and 5mm wide. I might try to solder them on instead of a solder blob.

The mcpcb is not available seperate. Only as part of the conversion kit.

From a couple days ago:

Texas_Ace wrote:
atbglenn wrote:
Are there any plans to offer spare parts for the GT70?. Like switches, driver boards, lenses, etc?

The conversion kit is as close as we will get to most of that. It does include the driver, mcpcb, LED, switch and centering ring.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

square74
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 hours ago
Joined: 02/06/2014 - 03:13
Posts: 138
Location: Germany

Ok,

thanks a lot.

So maybe I´ve to wait for that conversion kit.

Brass buttons have the problem, that if they get oxidized, resistance will be higher.

Thanks.

Kingjohn
Kingjohn's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 09/07/2017 - 16:24
Posts: 170
Location: Austria

Texas_Ace wrote:
In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.

The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led as it was basically the only thing available right now without an 8-12 week wait for a special production run and a minium order of 3500 pieces. The 4000k they actually wanted to do but it seems the supplier sold out of them in the last few weeks and they are no longer available Facepalm

No exact time frame yet but from past experience I would say the time frame in the OP should hold, sometime in the next ~2 weeks they should go live on the lumintop website and ship a week or so later.

At which point a new wave of emails will be sent out to everyone with a (most likely) new code.

Too bad….
Will they try to get the 4000K version for a later time?

Thanks for the update!

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12777
Location: Houston Texas

square74 wrote:

Brass buttons have the problem, that if they get oxidized, resistance will be higher.

Thanks.


Clean them then! Lol. I don’t think it would be much issue on a Q8 light where the tops slide across a brass ring. IDK.

Maybe I need copper buttons? Those surely oxidize.

Maybe a little layer of solder on the top will keep it clean?

I was also thinking I could solder some of these on top. It has to be better than spot welding them.


.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8982
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

Kingjohn wrote:
Too bad….
Will they try to get the 4000K version for a later time?

Thanks for the update!

Maybe much later but I would not count on it unless they get stuck with a bunch of hosts they can’t sell for some reason. They already ordered enough LED’s for the hosts they have in stock.

So for now it would seem that swapping the LED yourself is the best option.

Kingjohn
Kingjohn's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 09/07/2017 - 16:24
Posts: 170
Location: Austria

Texas_Ace wrote:
Kingjohn wrote:
Too bad….
Will they try to get the 4000K version for a later time?

Thanks for the update!

Maybe much later but I would not count on it unless they get stuck with a bunch of hosts they can’t sell for some reason. They already ordered enough LED’s for the hosts they have in stock.

So for now it would seem that swapping the LED yourself is the best option.

Maybe I should buy a kit, just to be on the safe side in case I kill the MCPCB
I have never soldered a LED (neither flowed nor re-flowed…)

Maybe I should start with something cheaper than a XHP70…

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8982
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

Yeah, find a cheap light and upgrade the LED in that to start with, it is not that hard but better to ruin a cheap $2 XP-G3 or similar LED over a $15 XHP70.2

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12777
Location: Houston Texas

Kingjohn wrote:

I have never soldered a LED (neither flowed nor re-flowed…)

Maybe I should start with something cheaper than a XHP70…


There’s lots of videos on YouTube showing how to do it. Check out Old Lumens and AdventureSportFlashlights in particular.

I haven’t tried it myself either, but I probably will one of these days.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

Maverick1947
Maverick1947's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 01/05/2018 - 19:53
Posts: 167
Location: Brazil, São Paulo

nkresho wrote:
I retested the 30q in addition to the 35e. Both were fresh off the charger at 4.20v Each battery set had less than 5 cycles of 5 mins or less on them.

I let the light cool about 15 mins between tests. Light engine was cool to the touch at the second test start.

Same carriers used both times as well (both the correct GT70 carriers with the thicker aluminum) compared to the OG GT carriers.

30q
Start lumens 8,388
30 second lumens 7,147

35e
Start lumens 7,848
30 second lumens 7,087

Startup was about 6% lower with the 35e
30 seconds was about 0.8% lower


That’s actually very good! I’m happy now. Won’t be buying the 30q set then. At least not for now. Thank you Nkresho!

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Maverick1947
Maverick1947's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 01/05/2018 - 19:53
Posts: 167
Location: Brazil, São Paulo

Newlumen wrote:
Blf gt 70 with 30q. 6240 lumen

Blf gt 70 lg Mj1. 6200 lumen

I only test for like 5 seconds.. so I think Samsung 35e should be fine..


Thank you too Newlumen! Very much appreciated. Let’s put them 35Es to work!

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Maverick1947
Maverick1947's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 01/05/2018 - 19:53
Posts: 167
Location: Brazil, São Paulo

teacher wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.

The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led
(snip)

The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED

Thumbs Up .. Looks good except possibly for that “C” part. Wink ..

……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess. Big Smile


P2 bin is the highest right? That’s good. What does the “C” means?

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8982
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

Yes, P2 is the highest bin.

The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.

Maverick1947
Maverick1947's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 01/05/2018 - 19:53
Posts: 167
Location: Brazil, São Paulo

Texas_Ace wrote:
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.

The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.


Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8982
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

Maverick1947 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.

The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.


Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?

It will tint shift warmer and a bit yellow / green. So it will get worse, how much I can’t say as all LED’s seem to dedome a little differnt and will depend on the person.

If you plan to dedome I would go with the CW or replace the LED with something of your choosing while you are doing it.

Maverick1947
Maverick1947's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 01/05/2018 - 19:53
Posts: 167
Location: Brazil, São Paulo

Texas_Ace wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.

The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.


Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?

It will tint shift warmer and a bit yellow / green. So it will get worse, how much I can’t say as all LED’s seem to dedome a little differnt and will depend on the person.

If you plan to dedome I would go with the CW or replace the LED with something of your choosing while you are doing it.


Now I’m really in doubt. I don’t like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.

There’s no replacement for displacement.

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 5 months ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9596
Location: NE & SW Alabama

Maverick1947 wrote:
teacher wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.

The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led
(snip)

The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED

Thumbs Up .. Looks good except possibly for that “C” part. Wink ..

……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess. Big Smile

P2 bin is the highest right? That’s good. What does the “C” means?

Texas_Ace wrote:
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.

The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.

Yep… what TA said. Sad

Take a look at the tint chart below. Notice the B & C tints are above the dotted black line (BBL). They both lean toward the green tints. The further above the line the greener. Sad

The A & D tints fall below the BBL and lean toward a rosier tint. The further below the BBL the rosier.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8982
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas
Maverick1947 wrote:
Now I’m really in doubt. I don’t like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.

I would say the best option is to simply order an LED you know you would like from another source in your case and install it before converting the light.

I think KD has some A and D tints available IIRC.

Maverick1947
Maverick1947's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 01/05/2018 - 19:53
Posts: 167
Location: Brazil, São Paulo

teacher wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:
teacher wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.

The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led
(snip)

The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED

Thumbs Up .. Looks good except possibly for that “C” part. Wink ..

……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess. Big Smile

P2 bin is the highest right? That’s good. What does the “C” means?

Texas_Ace wrote:
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.

The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.

Yep… what TA said. Sad

Take a look at the tint chart below. Notice the B & C tints are above the dotted black line (BBL). They both lean toward the green tints. The further above the line the greener. Sad

The A & D tints fall below the BBL and lean toward a rosier tint. The further below the BBL the rosier.

!{width:100%}http://toykeeper.net/torches/cree-tints.jpg!


Hmm I see. My L6 is 3A. Maybe that’s why I like it. Well. Now I will just do a little more research to try and decide it.
Thanks teacher.

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Maverick1947
Maverick1947's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 01/05/2018 - 19:53
Posts: 167
Location: Brazil, São Paulo
Texas_Ace wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:
Now I’m really in doubt. I don’t like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.

I would say the best option is to simply order an LED you know you would like from another source in your case and install it before converting the light.

I think KD has some A and D tints available IIRC.


Yeah. Maybe I’ll need to learn how to reflow LEDs. I’ll try and find some different LEDs on china. Thanks TA

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8982
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas
Maverick1947 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:
Now I’m really in doubt. I don’t like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.

I would say the best option is to simply order an LED you know you would like from another source in your case and install it before converting the light.

I think KD has some A and D tints available IIRC.


Yeah. Maybe I’ll need to learn how to reflow LEDs. I’ll try and find some different LEDs on china. Thanks TA

This is what I do to basically every light I get anyways, I think I can count the lights with the factory LED’s on one hand lol.

Newlumen
Newlumen's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 05/27/2017 - 00:19
Posts: 2092
Location: United states

nkresho wrote:
I retested the 30q in addition to the 35e. Both were fresh off the charger at 4.20v Each battery set had less than 5 cycles of 5 mins or less on them.

I let the light cool about 15 mins between tests. Light engine was cool to the touch at the second test start.

Same carriers used both times as well (both the correct GT70 carriers with the thicker aluminum) compared to the OG GT carriers.

30q
Start lumens 8,388
30 second lumens 7,147

35e
Start lumens 7,848
30 second lumens 7,087

Startup was about 6% lower with the 35e
30 seconds was about 0.8% lower

Thanks bro.. your lumen specs are really helpful.

nkresho
nkresho's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 11/26/2017 - 20:36
Posts: 233
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA

I was a little surprised that the output tapered so close after just 30 seconds. Initially the 30q have quite the spike in output, but they fall off pretty fast.

Single emitter with so many cells had to be a factor too. Differences between, say, a 30q and a vtc5a are pretty noticeable on a triple emitter single cell light. It’s more when you approach the current limit of the high drain cells that you see the higher output from them.

Happy to help.

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8982
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

It also has a lot to do with the heat. The first 30 seconds of losses are largely a matter of things heating up and that causing a reduction in output if I had to guess. The 30Q gives it more power but it also heats up more, so it seems to balance out.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12777
Location: Houston Texas

nkresho wrote:
I was a little surprised that the output tapered so close after just 30 seconds. Initially the 30q have quite the spike in output, but they fall off pretty fast.

Single emitter with so many cells had to be a factor too. Differences between, say, a 30q and a vtc5a are pretty noticeable on a triple emitter single cell light. It’s more when you approach the current limit of the high drain cells that you see the higher output from them.


Right, if we assume the GT70 draws 10A at 12v, then with 8 cells it’s only 5A per cell. If you only use 4 cells it’s 10A per cell.

The difference in voltage sag between the 35E and the 30Q is not so big at 5A, but at 10A the gap gets bigger.

I think 4A and 8A is probably closer to reality, but I use 5 and 10 because we can see that in this load chart from HKJ.


.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

Newlumen
Newlumen's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 05/27/2017 - 00:19
Posts: 2092
Location: United states

nkresho wrote:
I was a little surprised that the output tapered so close after just 30 seconds. Initially the 30q have quite the spike in output, but they fall off pretty fast.

Single emitter with so many cells had to be a factor too. Differences between, say, a 30q and a vtc5a are pretty noticeable on a triple emitter single cell light. It’s more when you approach the current limit of the high drain cells that you see the higher output from them.

Happy to help.

Even with the sony vtc5a, the lumen drop fast from 0 sec to 30 seconds.

OrangePeel
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 9 hours ago
Joined: 10/03/2016 - 01:42
Posts: 83
Texas_Ace wrote:
Lothar wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Those that want the bags, batteries and other add-on’s I would recommend waiting to place your order until it is sorted out.
Texas_Ace wrote:
Ok, I got a minor update on the bags and caps. Basically they will not be available with the group buy BUT they will ship them separately later once they are in stock. So watch for these later.
Texas_Ace wrote:
Ok, The 30Q cells are officially live on the Lumintop website

Ok, so just checking: I can order the BLF GT70 CW with batteries, lens cap and strap so long, and then order the bag separately and they will ship that for free to the US?
I’m not in a hurry, so I don’t mind for everything to be available to send them out at once. Should I maybe email Leo and arrange this?

Yes, you can now place an order for everything except the Bag which will take several weeks to be produced. Everything available now will start shipping next week if all goes well.

On the bag you can order it at a later date and yes, shipping should be free then as well seeing as it would ship in a separate box even if it was ordered now.

This is not true according to Leo at Lumintop. Here is what he replied today when I inquired about when my caps and straps would be shipping:

Quote:
Jim,

We cannot organize the accessories together when I arrange the shipment because you paid twice. We will send refund of covers and straps to you soon.

If you need the accessories, pls buy them from banggood directly.

Pls kindly be noted.
Leo

This makes no sense because on 08/13, I asked Lumintop about shipping the items together and was told:

Quote:
Hello Jim,
Yes, you can play the additional order for the head cover and shoulder strap, and we will ship them together with the GT70 flashlight.
Thank you
Victor

And then on 08/17 when I had order issues with their site, I inquired and was told:
Quote:
Thanks for the message.
Regret that your order 900109233 was wrong. For the code **** is only for GT70 orders, not for accessories.
So we would like to change the price to $28 which including the shipping fee, and after complete the payment, we can ship these together with order: 900107837
Any questions just feel free to contact us.
Thanks
Lumintop team

I paid for the accessories nearly two weeks before the light shipped. The irony is $28 was $6 more than my total which I assume was to cover shipping costs. I don’t see where I can get 4 caps and 2 straps on Banggood for $28 shipped. I realize these are accessories, but I am still making a purchase from Lumintop. Is there any BLF pull that can help get this straightened out? I don’t mind paying for shipping, but there is clearly a considerable difference in price on accessories between our BLF/Lumintop buy price and Banggood. I feel really uneasy now spending another $220 for the NW version with such fluid transactions.
jmkarstetter
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 2 months ago
Joined: 05/13/2018 - 22:18
Posts: 7
Location: Norman, OK

Wow, I’m glad I waited and didn’t get a BLF GT yet, where can I order one of these beasts at?

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 5 months ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9596
Location: NE & SW Alabama

OrangePeel wrote:
I feel really uneasy now spending another $220 for the NW version with such fluid transactions.
Wow…. Seems like the acessory purchases are ‘all over the map’…. with nobody knowing the real story. Facepalm

But why do you feel “uneasy” about purchasing another light??

Did you have problems receiving your GT70 also???

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12777
Location: Houston Texas

jmkarstetter wrote:
Wow, I’m glad I waited and didn’t get a BLF GT yet, where can I order one of these beasts at?

Just fill out the p reorder form in post one.

If you want the cool white version I can send you the code right now. If you want the neutral white version they will be available in the next two weeks and everyone will get a PM with the purchasing details when they are ready to go.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

Pages