Worrying about what? Don’t worry at all. You can set your light to step down at 40°C if you want. Or 35°C.
The driver components can withstand 230°C for a short time. This is when the solder becomes liquid.
Batteries can operate at 60°C to 70°C.
It’s the led that tends to get the hottest. I think it needs to stay below 150°C at it’s junction between the led and the mcpcb.
So let me get this straight. All these flashlights that have a thermal stepdown protection, they stepdown to protect my hands? Not the light itself?
IDK, maybe yes? If you get burned you might sue the company. They don’t want that or the bad reputation of burning people.
It all depends on the light as well. Small 16340 lights that do 900 lumen can probably burn up the led due to the lack of surface area to dissipate heat. The led is always hotter than the outer surface. I’ve heard of lights getting so hot that the solder under the LED would get soft and then a sideways bump would knock the LED right off of the mcpcb.
So having a thermal stepdown is always good for high powered lights. It’s still not mandatory, though. My L6 is over 130 watts (17.6A) and it doesn’t even have a thermal stepdown (old Narsil verion). I turn it down when I feel it’s hot enough, so no big deal.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Worrying about what? Don’t worry at all. You can set your light to step down at 40°C if you want. Or 35°C.
The driver components can withstand 230°C for a short time. This is when the solder becomes liquid.
Batteries can operate at 60°C to 70°C.
It’s the led that tends to get the hottest. I think it needs to stay below 150°C at it’s junction between the led and the mcpcb.
So let me get this straight. All these flashlights that have a thermal stepdown protection, they stepdown to protect my hands? Not the light itself?
IDK, maybe yes? If you get burned you might sue the company. They don’t want that or the bad reputation of burning people.
It all depends on the light as well. Small 16340 lights that do 900 lumen can probably burn up the led due to the lack of surface area to dissipate heat. The led is always hotter than the outer surface. I’ve heard of lights getting so hot that the solder under the LED would get soft and then a sideways bump would knock the LED right off of the mcpcb.
So having a thermal stepdown is always good for high powered lights. It’s still not mandatory, though. My L6 is over 130 watts (17.6A) and it doesn’t even have a thermal stepdown (old Narsil verion). I turn it down when I feel it’s hot enough, so no big deal.
Holy crap 130w. Maybe I will get close in mine. Just ordered a driver from Lexel,although he’s still playing catch-up with his orders. IDK when he will be able to ship it to me.
I may have missed it in the thread, but is there a way to order just the carriers? I see that they can be ordered with the conversion kit, but can they be ordered by themselves? Thanks for the help.
I may have missed it in the thread, but is there a way to order just the carriers? I see that they can be ordered with the conversion kit, but can they be ordered by themselves? Thanks for the help.
you can order just carriers. The listing for them is at the conversion kits. That made a little confusion.
You have 3 option there.
CW kit
NW kit
Carriers
Two questions from my side:
1) If companies love making money, and us hobbyists love spending money, why don’t Lumintop just produce an extended 3 carrier battery tube, similar to how they have a shorty 1 carrier tube? That way there is no couplers and a single nice elegant 3 carrier battery tube? I for one would rather order a 3x carrier tube than ordering a coupler and a shorty tube
2) How optimal is all the carrier springs, wires from driver to LED, and thermal paste under the LED. Will there be reasonable gains by bypassing all springs, replacing the wires from driver to LED with thicker wires, and replacing the thermal paste with something like Arctic Silver 5? Also, how thick is the LED shelf, and is there room to add some additional copper or aluminium between the LED shelf and driver?
Two questions from my side:
1) If companies love making money, and us hobbyists love spending money, why don’t Lumintop just produce an extended 3 carrier battery tube, similar to how they have a shorty 1 carrier tube? That way there is no couplers and a single nice elegant 3 carrier battery tube? I for one would rather order a 3x carrier tube than ordering a coupler and a shorty tube
2) How optimal is all the carrier springs, wires from driver to LED, and thermal paste under the LED. Will there be reasonable gains by bypassing all springs, replacing the wires from driver to LED with thicker wires, and replacing the thermal paste with something like Arctic Silver 5? Also, how thick is the LED shelf, and is there room to add some additional copper or aluminium between the LED shelf and driver?
1. Companies will not make an item if they think only a handful of people will buy it. They need to make and sale large batches to cover the cost.
2. It’s all very optimal. I don’t think you can get much more out of it. The carrier springs are already doubled to reduce resistance. The shelf is quite thick, I don’t know the exact number. The original GT had 20ga wires to the led so this one has at least that. They may have gone bigger, but I’m not sure.
With 4 batteries the most amps you might see is 8A to 10A per battery. With 8 batteries this drops to 4A to 5A per battery.
There’s only one thing I can think of that might get a little gain and that is bypassing the postive carrier spring under the button. You may or may not see an increase.
It’s built really well in stock form. I don’t know if anyone has bothered to try to beef it up.
Texas_Ace can probably go into some more detail later today.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Two questions from my side:
1) If companies love making money, and us hobbyists love spending money, why don’t Lumintop just produce an extended 3 carrier battery tube, similar to how they have a shorty 1 carrier tube? That way there is no couplers and a single nice elegant 3 carrier battery tube? I for one would rather order a 3x carrier tube than ordering a coupler and a shorty tube
2) How optimal is all the carrier springs, wires from driver to LED, and thermal paste under the LED. Will there be reasonable gains by bypassing all springs, replacing the wires from driver to LED with thicker wires, and replacing the thermal paste with something like Arctic Silver 5? Also, how thick is the LED shelf, and is there room to add some additional copper or aluminium between the LED shelf and driver?
You can bypass the springs if you really want but it is at your own risk.
1: Jason explained it pretty well, for a company like lumintop to make a 3 carrier battery tube they would need to make a batch of at least 100. Unless they think they can sell all of those it would be silly to make them at all. I can’t blame them for not making it, there was vocal interest in the short tubes (for reasons I still can’t understand) so they took a risk and made a batch of them and lucked out and sold them all.
The longer tubes though have only had very minor interest in the big picture. Selling 100 of them is anything but certain. So I have not pushed it, I have to apply business sense to the things I request and I can’t promise them they will sell an entire batch of long tubes.
If someone could show enough interest that 100+ tubes + carriers would sell at a probable price of ~$30+, then I could talk to them about it but I find this unlikely.
2: We are already driving the XHP70.2 quite hard as it is, more power will only give minor gains in output and a lot more stress on the LED. So the chances of killing the LED go up a lot. Personally I just leave my springs stock.
Texas_Ace, I think the interest on the shorty tube, at least for me, was more comical than practical. When I saw the picture of the GT with the shorty tube, I just had to laugh at how ridiculous and funny it looked, so I got it.
Now, the longer tube has the practicality of longer run-time, and for me, I like the optional position for carrying the GT over the shoulder, with the tube resting on the shoulder while hiking or long walks. I’m sure it would also make one grin.
lol, I can understand the comical side of the short tube.
The long tube is the one I actually would of backed myself, while it would make the light too heavy to carry without a strap, it would be practical with a strap.
Like I said, if the interest was shown for a 3 carrier tube at the $30-$40 price point (seeing as it must include a carrier as well), I bet we could get them made.
It would need at the very least 100 interested parties though.
The short tubes were much less of a risk since they were only $10, a lot of people would buy them just because they were so cheap and only use them once. Not so easy with a $30+ battery tube.
Are they shipping the lights to the US in batches ?
I ordered and paid for my GT70 on Aug 30
(Order: #900112870)
I still have not seen it or been updated on the shipping time
Are they shipping the lights to the US in batches ?
I ordered and paid for my GT70 on Aug 30
(Order: #900112870)
I still have not seen it or been updated on the shipping time
They do ship in batches but it is odd that it has taken so long for yours. I would contact Leo@lumintop.com and check on the status.
lol, I can understand the comical side of the short tube.
The long tube is the one I actually would of backed myself, while it would make the light too heavy to carry without a strap, it would be practical with a strap.
Like I said, if the interest was shown for a 3 carrier tube at the $30-$40 price point (seeing as it must include a carrier as well), I bet we could get them made.
It would need at the very least 100 interested parties though.
The short tubes were much less of a risk since they were only $10, a lot of people would buy them just because they were so cheap and only use them once. Not so easy with a $30+ battery tube.
Two questions from my side:
1) If companies love making money, and us hobbyists love spending money, why don’t Lumintop just produce an extended 3 carrier battery tube, similar to how they have a shorty 1 carrier tube? That way there is no couplers and a single nice elegant 3 carrier battery tube? I for one would rather order a 3x carrier tube than ordering a coupler and a shorty tube
2) How optimal is all the carrier springs, wires from driver to LED, and thermal paste under the LED. Will there be reasonable gains by bypassing all springs, replacing the wires from driver to LED with thicker wires, and replacing the thermal paste with something like Arctic Silver 5? Also, how thick is the LED shelf, and is there room to add some additional copper or aluminium between the LED shelf and driver?
1. Companies will not make an item if they think only a handful of people will buy it. They need to make and sale large batches to cover the cost.
2. It’s all very optimal. I don’t think you can get much more out of it. The carrier springs are already doubled to reduce resistance. The shelf is quite thick, I don’t know the exact number. The original GT had 20ga wires to the led so this one has at least that. They may have gone bigger, but I’m not sure.
With 4 batteries the most amps you might see is 8A to 10A per battery. With 8 batteries this drops to 4A to 5A per battery.
There’s only one thing I can think of that might get a little gain and that is bypassing the postive carrier spring under the button. You may or may not see an increase.
It’s built really well in stock form. I don’t know if anyone has bothered to try to beef it up.
Texas_Ace can probably go into some more detail later today.
Lumintop could have follow fenix tk75 carrier design in the beginning.. what done is done.
Two questions from my side:
1) If companies love making money, and us hobbyists love spending money, why don’t Lumintop just produce an extended 3 carrier battery tube, similar to how they have a shorty 1 carrier tube? That way there is no couplers and a single nice elegant 3 carrier battery tube? I for one would rather order a 3x carrier tube than ordering a coupler and a shorty tube
2) How optimal is all the carrier springs, wires from driver to LED, and thermal paste under the LED. Will there be reasonable gains by bypassing all springs, replacing the wires from driver to LED with thicker wires, and replacing the thermal paste with something like Arctic Silver 5? Also, how thick is the LED shelf, and is there room to add some additional copper or aluminium between the LED shelf and driver?
1. Companies will not make an item if they think only a handful of people will buy it. They need to make and sale large batches to cover the cost.
2. It’s all very optimal. I don’t think you can get much more out of it. The carrier springs are already doubled to reduce resistance. The shelf is quite thick, I don’t know the exact number. The original GT had 20ga wires to the led so this one has at least that. They may have gone bigger, but I’m not sure.
With 4 batteries the most amps you might see is 8A to 10A per battery. With 8 batteries this drops to 4A to 5A per battery.
There’s only one thing I can think of that might get a little gain and that is bypassing the postive carrier spring under the button. You may or may not see an increase.
It’s built really well in stock form. I don’t know if anyone has bothered to try to beef it up.
Texas_Ace can probably go into some more detail later today.
Lumintop could have follow fenix tk75 carrier design in the beginning.. what done is done.
We suggested this at first actually but the first carrier design they wanted to use would not work with it very easily. After all was said and done, we just never brought it back up.
Any GT70 guys , CW, who de-domed.. Can you PM me?
I think this is the direction I am going.. 10-15% loss of 8000 lumens, while stretching the throw closer to the original GT…Tint shift, not a biggie to me… Best of both worlds?
Are they shipping the lights to the US in batches ?
I ordered and paid for my GT70 on Aug 30
(Order: #900112870)
I still have not seen it or been updated on the shipping time
If you registered when you purchased at lumintoponline dot com, you can sign in and check your order status. My order status is ‘Wait For Shipping’. But I ordered much later than you – Sept. 12th.
Patiently waiting…
—
gman7228
There are 10 kinds of people in the world. Those that understand binary notation and those that do not.
Two questions from my side:
1) If companies love making money, and us hobbyists love spending money, why don’t Lumintop just produce an extended 3 carrier battery tube, similar to how they have a shorty 1 carrier tube? That way there is no couplers and a single nice elegant 3 carrier battery tube? I for one would rather order a 3x carrier tube than ordering a coupler and a shorty tube
2) How optimal is all the carrier springs, wires from driver to LED, and thermal paste under the LED. Will there be reasonable gains by bypassing all springs, replacing the wires from driver to LED with thicker wires, and replacing the thermal paste with something like Arctic Silver 5? Also, how thick is the LED shelf, and is there room to add some additional copper or aluminium between the LED shelf and driver?
1. Companies will not make an item if they think only a handful of people will buy it. They need to make and sale large batches to cover the cost.
2. It’s all very optimal. I don’t think you can get much more out of it. The carrier springs are already doubled to reduce resistance. The shelf is quite thick, I don’t know the exact number. The original GT had 20ga wires to the led so this one has at least that. They may have gone bigger, but I’m not sure.
With 4 batteries the most amps you might see is 8A to 10A per battery. With 8 batteries this drops to 4A to 5A per battery.
There’s only one thing I can think of that might get a little gain and that is bypassing the postive carrier spring under the button. You may or may not see an increase.
It’s built really well in stock form. I don’t know if anyone has bothered to try to beef it up.
Texas_Ace can probably go into some more detail later today.
Lumintop could have follow fenix tk75 carrier design in the beginning.. what done is done.
We suggested this at first actually but the first carrier design they wanted to use would not work with it very easily. After all was said and done, we just never brought it back up.
Oh ok. Don’t get me wrong. I love blf gt so much. You know it. Lol
Are they shipping the lights to the US in batches ?
I ordered and paid for my GT70 on Aug 30
(Order: #900112870)
I still have not seen it or been updated on the shipping time
If you registered when you purchased at lumintoponline dot com, you can sign in and check your order status. My order status is ‘Wait For Shipping’. But I ordered much later than you – Sept. 12th.
Patiently waiting…
I just got an email from Leo
and he said they will ship next Monday or Tuesday
Any GT70 guys , CW, who de-domed.. Can you PM me?
I think this is the direction I am going.. 10-15% loss of 8000 lumens, while stretching the throw closer to the original GT…Tint shift, not a biggie to me… Best of both worlds?
TIA
Tony
If you are wanting to have someone dedome the light for you we should know your location so we can suggest someone local.
I can do it for those in the USA.
Far as the trade-offs with de-doming. You do get a longer throw light for sure but the tint does shift warmer and greener.
Personally I prefer tint over throw so I just leave the dome on but if tint is not important for you then de-doming is a great way to get more throw.
Lumintops website doesn’t seem very secure and they ask for most of your info before allowing the PayPal transaction. Am I doing something wrong or is it safer than I’m thinking?
IDK, maybe yes? If you get burned you might sue the company. They don’t want that or the bad reputation of burning people.
It all depends on the light as well. Small 16340 lights that do 900 lumen can probably burn up the led due to the lack of surface area to dissipate heat. The led is always hotter than the outer surface. I’ve heard of lights getting so hot that the solder under the LED would get soft and then a sideways bump would knock the LED right off of the mcpcb.
So having a thermal stepdown is always good for high powered lights. It’s still not mandatory, though. My L6 is over 130 watts (17.6A) and it doesn’t even have a thermal stepdown (old Narsil verion). I turn it down when I feel it’s hot enough, so no big deal.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
For most of them, yes, that is correct.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Holy crap 130w. Maybe I will get close in mine. Just ordered a driver from Lexel,although he’s still playing catch-up with his orders. IDK when he will be able to ship it to me.
There’s no replacement for displacement.
Ordered the NW conversion kit.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Hmmm. Interesting. Changed my perspective on how I use my lights.
There’s no replacement for displacement.
I may have missed it in the thread, but is there a way to order just the carriers? I see that they can be ordered with the conversion kit, but can they be ordered by themselves? Thanks for the help.
you can order just carriers. The listing for them is at the conversion kits. That made a little confusion.
You have 3 option there.
CW kit
NW kit
Carriers
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Ordered NW conversion kit
Two questions from my side:
1) If companies love making money, and us hobbyists love spending money, why don’t Lumintop just produce an extended 3 carrier battery tube, similar to how they have a shorty 1 carrier tube? That way there is no couplers and a single nice elegant 3 carrier battery tube? I for one would rather order a 3x carrier tube than ordering a coupler and a shorty tube
2) How optimal is all the carrier springs, wires from driver to LED, and thermal paste under the LED. Will there be reasonable gains by bypassing all springs, replacing the wires from driver to LED with thicker wires, and replacing the thermal paste with something like Arctic Silver 5? Also, how thick is the LED shelf, and is there room to add some additional copper or aluminium between the LED shelf and driver?
Current Collection:
BLF: BLF-GT90, BLF-GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini, BLF-LT1;
BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A);
Solarforce: L2P (XM-L2 U3 @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 @ 2A);
Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF-GT4;
1. Companies will not make an item if they think only a handful of people will buy it. They need to make and sale large batches to cover the cost.
2. It’s all very optimal. I don’t think you can get much more out of it. The carrier springs are already doubled to reduce resistance. The shelf is quite thick, I don’t know the exact number. The original GT had 20ga wires to the led so this one has at least that. They may have gone bigger, but I’m not sure.
With 4 batteries the most amps you might see is 8A to 10A per battery. With 8 batteries this drops to 4A to 5A per battery.
There’s only one thing I can think of that might get a little gain and that is bypassing the postive carrier spring under the button. You may or may not see an increase.
It’s built really well in stock form. I don’t know if anyone has bothered to try to beef it up.
Texas_Ace can probably go into some more detail later today.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
You can bypass the springs if you really want but it is at your own risk.
1: Jason explained it pretty well, for a company like lumintop to make a 3 carrier battery tube they would need to make a batch of at least 100. Unless they think they can sell all of those it would be silly to make them at all. I can’t blame them for not making it, there was vocal interest in the short tubes (for reasons I still can’t understand) so they took a risk and made a batch of them and lucked out and sold them all.
The longer tubes though have only had very minor interest in the big picture. Selling 100 of them is anything but certain. So I have not pushed it, I have to apply business sense to the things I request and I can’t promise them they will sell an entire batch of long tubes.
If someone could show enough interest that 100+ tubes + carriers would sell at a probable price of ~$30+, then I could talk to them about it but I find this unlikely.
2: We are already driving the XHP70.2 quite hard as it is, more power will only give minor gains in output and a lot more stress on the LED. So the chances of killing the LED go up a lot. Personally I just leave my springs stock.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I will try spring bypass if the output is under 8000 lumens. But if it is above I will keep stock.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Texas_Ace, I think the interest on the shorty tube, at least for me, was more comical than practical. When I saw the picture of the GT with the shorty tube, I just had to laugh at how ridiculous and funny it looked, so I got it.
Now, the longer tube has the practicality of longer run-time, and for me, I like the optional position for carrying the GT over the shoulder, with the tube resting on the shoulder while hiking or long walks. I’m sure it would also make one grin.
lol, I can understand the comical side of the short tube.
The long tube is the one I actually would of backed myself, while it would make the light too heavy to carry without a strap, it would be practical with a strap.
Like I said, if the interest was shown for a 3 carrier tube at the $30-$40 price point (seeing as it must include a carrier as well), I bet we could get them made.
It would need at the very least 100 interested parties though.
The short tubes were much less of a risk since they were only $10, a lot of people would buy them just because they were so cheap and only use them once. Not so easy with a $30+ battery tube.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Are they shipping the lights to the US in batches ?
I ordered and paid for my GT70 on Aug 30 (Order: #900112870)
I still have not seen it or been updated on the shipping time
They do ship in batches but it is odd that it has taken so long for yours. I would contact Leo@lumintop.com and check on the status.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
will do, thanks TA
So we’re short 98.
Lumintop could have follow fenix tk75 carrier design in the beginning.. what done is done.
We suggested this at first actually but the first carrier design they wanted to use would not work with it very easily. After all was said and done, we just never brought it back up.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Any GT70 guys , CW, who de-domed.. Can you PM me?
I think this is the direction I am going.. 10-15% loss of 8000 lumens, while stretching the throw closer to the original GT…Tint shift, not a biggie to me… Best of both worlds?
TIA
Tony
If you registered when you purchased at lumintoponline dot com, you can sign in and check your order status. My order status is ‘Wait For Shipping’. But I ordered much later than you – Sept. 12th.
Patiently waiting…
gman7228
There are 10 kinds of people in the world. Those that understand binary notation and those that do not.
Oh ok. Don’t get me wrong. I love blf gt so much. You know it. Lol
I just got an email from Leo
and he said they will ship next Monday or Tuesday
Hi Ace, can you please PM me the cupon code so i can order my conversion kit.
Thanks
Sent
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
If you are wanting to have someone dedome the light for you we should know your location so we can suggest someone local.
I can do it for those in the USA.
Far as the trade-offs with de-doming. You do get a longer throw light for sure but the tint does shift warmer and greener.
Personally I prefer tint over throw so I just leave the dome on but if tint is not important for you then de-doming is a great way to get more throw.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Lumintops website doesn’t seem very secure and they ask for most of your info before allowing the PayPal transaction. Am I doing something wrong or is it safer than I’m thinking?
I don’t know. Really all they are getting is basic shipping information it seems to me.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Yeah, security is not a big deal, they only get your address before, all the payment info is handled through paypal and lumintop never sees it.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
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