Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

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JasonWW
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I just heard back from Tracy.

Sofirn wrote:
I read the replies about SP70 tint and recheck the history of feature when we planned. I proposed 5350K-5700K but factory told this tint of XHP70.2 is more difficult to purhase which means it takes longer time to get and I don’t know when the files was changed to 6000-6500K, and I didn’t notice the difference!

I can’t believe I confirmed the file. Now I wanna confirm is 5350-5700K really a much better tint for SP70?


I will leave this up to you guys since I am okay with a cooler tint.

Do most people here prefer the 5350-5700K tint?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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gehrmo
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I’m ok with cooler tint as well.

Easyrr
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Something in the 5000k range is more usable I think.

everydaysurvivalgear
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NW is the way to go its a better overall option for all the none modders out there. Should around the same output but arguably be a more usable beam to most.

I am going to slice my dome so cold white is best for me but i will take one for the team lol

Zulumoose
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Quote:
Do most people here prefer the 5350-5700K tint?

I think that is well established. I don’t remember on which project it was done, but polls showed clearly that the meat of the bell curve in terms of BLF CCT choice was in the 4500-5500 range. For many the 3D bin of the original Q8 is just about perfect. Those who prefer the cool tints of 6000 and above are a minority, but significant enough that it makes sense to offer that as an option, especially as the wider (uninitiated) public tend to go for the cooler varieties, probably due to disappointment with warm white lightbulbs, which tend to be far too warm and seem dim by comparison to cool white.

Beam me up!

JordanZHP
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Easyrr wrote:
Something in the 5000k range is more usable I think.

This!

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:

Do most people here prefer the 5350-5700K tint?
Yes… 5350K – 5700K is fine, as was the original plan….but no warmer than 5350 K.
If they go a bit cooler that works too. Thumbs Up

Preferably an A or D below the BBL.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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JasonWW
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Zulumoose wrote:
Quote:
Do most people here prefer the 5350-5700K tint?

I think that is well established.


To be more specific, do most people here prefer the 5350-5700K tint even though it may push back the production schedule?

I don’t know how much time it may add, a couple weeks minimum I would guess. Anything less would not be a big deal. It could be 4 to 6 weeks, though. If the demand for 5350-5700K is strong enough, I would say it’s worth the delay. Especially if it results in higher sales.

I’ll ask Tracy if she knows how much of a delay it will add.

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Yokiamy
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I would prefer something between 4500-5000 K.

I don’t like blue light
Still wondering why most people seem to love harsh blue Cold White light Sick

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shirnask wrote:
Don’t know that it matters to this discussion, but my nickel 200 is magnetic

!{width:25%}[url=https://imgur.com/QNQqVeE][img]http://i.imgur.com/QNQqVeE.jpg[/img][/url]!


Nickel, iron an cobalt are the magnetic metals I have learned. Hmm, a cobalt flashlight, I read that cobalt-chrome alloys have good features..
JasonWW
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Tracy says they can NOT glue the drivers, but it won’t have a retaining ring. The battery tube will screw in and tighten against it. So under normal circumstances where you only unscrew the tailcap to install batteries, things will be fine. If you unscrew the battery tube, the driver might be a bit loose.

I am okay with this. Anything is better than fighting glue.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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everydaysurvivalgear
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We don’t even have a clue when the light will be finished as is. So it doesn’t really matter if we wait a bit longer?

JasonWW
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Yokiamy wrote:
I would prefer something between 4500-5000 K.

I don’t like blue light
Still wondering why most people seem to love harsh blue Cold White light Sick


Nobody is talking about “harsh blue Cold White”. Your eyes may be more sensitive to the color blue, than most people.

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Satan@103TFS
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Wonder why not have driver retain ring ?

everydaysurvivalgear
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!!

Nah but on a serious note as Jason has said as far as we know the light is going ahead as planned which includes a driver retaining ring

teacher
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Yokiamy wrote:

(snip)
Still wondering why most people seem to love harsh blue Cold White light
I really do not think “most people seem to love harsh blue Cold White light” or even really like it. Most people do not like the urine yellow of Warm White light either.

So make it as close to True Neutral Whitetm as possible. Adding little tint either warm or cool.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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JasonWW
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Satan@103TFS wrote:
Wonder why not have driver retain ring ?

They already designed the CNC cutting programs and set the battery tube length, etc… to not have a retaining ring. Prototypes have been made. I’m guessing they don’t want to have to redesign everything just to add a retaining ring.

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teacher
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:

Nah but on a serious note as Jason has said as far as we know the light is going ahead as planned which includes a driver retaining ring
Did you see post 1362, quoted below??
JasonWW wrote:
Tracy says they can NOT glue the drivers, but it won’t have a retaining ring. The battery tube will screw in and tighten against it. So under normal circumstances where you only unscrew the tailcap to install batteries, things will be fine. If you unscrew the battery tube, the driver might be a bit loose.

I am okay with this. Anything is better than fighting glue.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

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everydaysurvivalgear
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teacher wrote:
everydaysurvivalgear wrote:

Nah but on a serious note as Jason has said as far as we know the light is going ahead as planned which includes a driver retaining ring
Did you see post 1362, quoted below??
JasonWW wrote:
Tracy says they can NOT glue the drivers, but it won’t have a retaining ring. The battery tube will screw in and tighten against it. So under normal circumstances where you only unscrew the tailcap to install batteries, things will be fine. If you unscrew the battery tube, the driver might be a bit loose.

I am okay with this. Anything is better than fighting glue.

Nope i missed it i probably skimmed past that part. This sucks big time!

teacher
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/\Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Zulumoose
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Quote:
Nobody is talking about “harsh blue Cold White”.

I don’t think I have seen a 6000-6500 light that I wouldn’t describe as having angry blue, or even purple elements.

Likewise anything I have seen below about 4500 seems to make everything white look like it is stained yellow.

We all perceive things differently, but to me at least it is clear that the closer to 5000 the more true the colours look, below that things appear warmer and maybe more relaxing, above that things appear fresher, but with visible blue tints. Nothing else I have comes close to my D4 5000K Nichia high CRI in side-by-side comparisons.

Beam me up!

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We found, as stated earlier, the most popular tint requested on BLF is ~5000K, though I personally prefer 4000K. As previously stated, the 4750-5000K 3D in the Q8 has been very popular, and what was voted for - middle of the road.

5500K is cooler than BLF ideal. Anyone who has seen an XPL HI 5D (3750-4000K) would not think it's yellow though. Indoor house lighting ranges from 2200K (candlelight, campfire yellowish) to 2700K (typical warmer) to 3000K (typical cooler). 5000K in house lighting to me looks awful.

Of course Kelvin temp alone is not the full story. You must consider where it lies on the chart. The 3D, 4D, or 5D's allows you to drop K degrees and still be acceptable to many because the lack of greens/yellows.

A 6500K light made for BLF, with no warmer options, is a light not made for BLF - no other way of putting it.

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really a let down to see sudden change in tint choice when it says clearly in OP 5000kish tint… yeah why listen to BLF when u not gonna follow whats been agreed long ago ? yeah there is a reason blf q8 is one of the most popular lights and very few complain of the stock tint, its perfection.

count me out on this light, i´ll stick with my good old l6.

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contactcr
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You should remove BLF special from the thread title. With the exception of a few fins nothing about this light is consistent with other BLF lights. Not 1 piece head, not SMO, not BLF firmware, no retaining ring, no popular LED choices.

It doesnt beat a modded L6 even with a bigger footprint only matches it. Too many concessions and shortcuts and people are just coming up with excuses on their behalf. Let them release their own light since they wont use any feedback anyways.

teacher
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Below is an exact copy & paste of the latest update, on 14 August 2018; of Post #1. This was supposedly decided over 4 months ago, with no indication of change until an offhand comment about LED choice a couple of days ago.

Item #3 clearly states: “3. LED: one XHP70.2, 5350-5700K emitter

Not 5000K, not 4500K, not 4000K, not 6000K, or not 6500K.

5350K – 5700K is what was agreed upon & listed over 4 months ago. Hopefully that…. will be what we get.

Note also that #2 states a ‘Smooth Reflector’. However, it was indicated weeks ago & has been discussed at length that this may be changed to a ‘slight/mild Orange Peel’ Reflector.

As far as I can tell the LED tint change away from 5350K – 5700K has just come out of the blue completely. No discussion, no prior notice, no nothing…. Sad

Why were LED’s not sourced months ago??

My official opinion, ymmv.

(Below is copied & pasted from Post #1 exacty as it was written)

  • UPFDATE 08/14/2018 *

Once again to confirm other information. It’s much appreciated if anyone could help optimize for better reading.

1. size: 9cm big head, aluminum bezel
2. Smooth reflector, AR coated lens
3. LED: one XHP70.2, 5350-5700K emitter
4. 2*26650 long tube(sleeve for 21700),
5. tactical ring
6. Switch: tail forward clicky switch + side switch (with indicator as Q8)
7. Overheating Protection. Low Voltage Protection.
8. UI:
Tail switch to power on / cut off

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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contactcr
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Nothing bad to say about Jason either. You did what you could and invested a lot of time. They should be listening to your expertise since they clearly wanted the feedback at the start.

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Going with the usual 5300-5700k from Sofirn would be great.

While I do not like much that tint, I still prefer it over cool white 6000-6500k of the Sofirn SP33.

So much blue.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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contactcr wrote:
Nothing bad to say about Jason either. You did what you could and invested a lot of time. They should be listening to your expertise since they clearly wanted the feedback at the start.
+1…. Exactly & well said. Thumbs Up .

You can lead a horse to water, but you can’t make him drink.

Jason appears to have done a stellar job. Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Satan@103TFS
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Sofirn wrote:
Why do you guys don’t like glue? Our engineers reached an agreement that using glue makes light more reliable.

But as BLF Edition light, we can keep the retaining ring. Big Smile

Refer to this may I ask why the retain ring was missing in the design ?

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DB Custom wrote:
Without doubt the can of a cell is steel, magnetic in other words. The top cap, or positive contact surface, is also magnetic so it too is steel regardless of whether or not it has a coating on it to prevent rust or tarnish from developing. Use magnetic lead chargers and you find out really quick which cells have non-steel base plates covering the protection circuit and such.

Use flat tops in a series light and stick a magnet on the positive cap, it also sticks to the negative end of the cell and they come out of the light together, like a stick. Steel. Otherwise the magnet would not attach.

For steel it depends, it is an alloy. You can get non-magnetic steel.
The magnetic elements are iron, cobalt, nickel.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_alloy

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