Yes, the Black and Gold 5000 LiitoKala’s are top notch. I prefer them over all, and I got them awhile back cheap, like 4 for $20.00, so I bought 20 of them. I have the Shockli’s also.
Thank you.. I bought from aliexpress liitokola official store as well..
Any idea whether your black Liitokala is genuine or not, assuming there is fake Liitokala 26650 cells now??? Do you remember roughly when you ordered your Liitokala? And if you have an analysing charger, do you mind checking the capacity of your Black Liitokala 26650 cells?
I was all set to order a pack of 4 Black Liitokala 26650 cells from them till I noticed several more recent posts suggesting Liitokala Official Store on AE also sells fake non-Liitokala cells, so I am starting to wonder if they sell fake Liitokala cells too??? See post here today by ledoman indicating their Panasonic NCR18650B are fakes! Here is another post by Barkuti indicating he has received fake Samsung 25R cells from them as well.
Yourrid, I don’t have a Haikelight of any kind. Don’t recall seeing that one but the color of that blue/purple is amazing!
Of course, I built my own triple 70.2 from scratch last year that makes 20,000 lumens plus so…
You really need to get a MT09R man. I got one modded by TA in blue; looks fantastic and does 21,000 lumens. I love the blue finish on it.
The SC26 group buy is still going on I think. Cool little light, same blue finish, but it badly needed a different driver and UI. I’ve been searching for a 28mm boost driver with Narsil and side switch LED support, but haven’t found any yet.
That looks like a really nice solution, compact and easy to use. It might still not fit on 17mm and smaller drivers, but it’d be really nice on bigger ones. On smaller drivers, it might be necessary to spread vias out over a wider area, wherever they can fit. It’s far less convenient to use, but still better than having to unsolder things between tests.
You can buy it from BG and have it shipped to TA for modding. But the new V2 already comes with the TA designed driver and also have factory spring bypasses. The only thing you might want TA to mod is the emitters. We don’t know what bin emitters the factory comes with but TA can help you put in top bin emitters of a color temperature of your choice.
Anyone know how you ramp the Aux LEDs? I clicked 7 times to get it to low Aux, but when I click again it just goes into ramping of regular leds. Curious to see how bright those blue aux leds could get.
Yeah, the aux LEDs don’t ramp. The ‘high’ mode on them is as bright as they get, but you can change that by swapping out the resistor on the aux LED board.
Got my Green Emisar from Mtn Electronics today, so I cleaned the contacts and springs with NO-OX-ID “A” Special and popped a Black and Gold Liitokala charged to 4.21v set the meter on the T/A maukka calibrated tube to MAX hold….and got 4,840lm. at turn on…
Spaced the battery tube out with (2) 2mm x27mmx30.5mm copper sealing rings, so I didn’t crush the springs, when using a full charged 4.21v 21700 30T and registered 6,070lm. at turn on…
Bad to the Bone stock Rocket! And yes it still works fine..
Yeah, the aux LEDs don’t ramp. The ‘high’ mode on them is as bright as they get, but you can change that by swapping out the resistor on the aux LED board.
Thanks. I still can’t seem to get it into “high” mode. I do the 7 clicks to get it to aux LED, but no matter what I do after that, it still seems to be on low.
Got my Green Emisar from Mtn Electronics today, so I cleaned the contacts and springs with NO-OX-ID “A” Special and popped a Black and Gold Liitokala charged to 4.21v set the meter on the T/A maukka calibrated tube to MAX hold….and got 4,840lm. at turn on…
Spaced the battery tube out with (2) 2mm x27mmx30.5mm copper sealing rings, so I didn’t crush the springs, when using a full charged 4.21v 21700 30T and registered 6,070lm. at turn on…
Bad to the Bone stock Rocket! And yes it still works fine..
Holy smoke. Almost 5000 lumen . Thanks for the test kiwi.
Yeah, the aux LEDs don’t ramp. The ‘high’ mode on them is as bright as they get, but you can change that by swapping out the resistor on the aux LED board.
Thanks. I still can’t seem to get it into “high” mode. I do the 7 clicks to get it to aux LED, but no matter what I do after that, it still seems to be on low.
The low is very low…hardly noticeable before the “high” mode. It can be hard to see in a lit room…
The “high” mode is far from “high” as lumens go…its almost moonlightish
Goto OFF, try seven clicks and turn off the lights and see if it is barely glowing…
—
When I'm spending mon€yfoolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...
I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...
Yeah, the aux LEDs don’t ramp. The ‘high’ mode on them is as bright as they get, but you can change that by swapping out the resistor on the aux LED board.
Thanks. I still can’t seem to get it into “high” mode. I do the 7 clicks to get it to aux LED, but no matter what I do after that, it still seems to be on low.
The low is very low…hardly noticeable before the “high” mode. It can be hard to see in a lit room…
The “high” mode is far from “high” as lumens go…its almost moonlightish
Goto OFF, try seven clicks and turn off the lights and see if it is barely glowing…
Thanks so much! You’re totally right. I couldn’t even tell when it was on low mode because there is still a good deal of light in the room. It is very faint.
Received my D4s from MTN today, the size is slightly bigger than I expect!
From L to R: Fireflies ROT66, D4s, DQG Tiny 26650 3th & Haikelite SC26 (26350 tube).
Got my Green Emisar from Mtn Electronics today, so I cleaned the contacts and springs with NO-OX-ID “A” Special and popped a Black and Gold Liitokala charged to 4.21v set the meter on the T/A maukka calibrated tube to MAX hold….and got 4,840lm. at turn on…
Spaced the battery tube out with (2) 2mm x27mmx30.5mm copper sealing rings, so I didn’t crush the springs, when using a full charged 4.21v 21700 30T and registered 6,070lm. at turn on…
Bad to the Bone stock Rocket! And yes it still works fine..
Holy cow this definitely is brighter than the D4! 6,000 lumens with 21700 makes it even more insane!
Btw, do you really mean you cleaned the contacts and springs with NO-OX-ID? I thought it was only used as a thread grease but with electrical conductance for reduced resistance through the threads. I have the NO-OX-ID too but from my testing, it didn’t increase any lumens unfortunately.
“NO-OX-ID electrical contact lubricant prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides, and other corrosion deposits and is also used as a battery terminal grease”
Not sure where you got the idea it was a thread lubricant, it’s formulated to clean electrical contacts and provide a non-oxidizing layer of protection to maintain optimum battery to contact performance.
Perhaps the lumens reading from that box is questionable, who knows… far be it for me to say… but I DO see that it’s not mating to the lights properly in Kawi’s pics of the TN42.
“NO-OX-ID electrical contact lubricant prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides, and other corrosion deposits and is also used as a battery terminal grease”
Not sure where you got the idea it was a thread lubricant, it’s formulated to clean electrical contacts and provide a non-oxidizing layer of protection to maintain optimum battery to contact performance.
Perhaps the lumens reading from that box is questionable, who knows… far be it for me to say… but I DO see that it’s not mating to the lights properly in Kawi’s pics of the TN42.
Thanks for the clarification. I found the no-ox-id recommended by someone in a thread lubricant thread and I bought it for that purpose. I never realize it wasn’t intended for that. However, it does work well as a thread lubricant and being meant for electrical contact means I don’t have to worry about grease getting on my batteries and springs. I’ve been having problems with my TC20 turbo mode because thread grease gets on the battery contacts and I have to clean with alcohol to fix.
KawiBoy1428 thanks for the info! Where did you get the copper rings? Also, are there cheap 21700 -> 26650 spacer/sleeves available anywhere? A quick google search only turned up brackets but not sleeves. Thanks!
Jordan, Kawi makes the copper spacers from copper washers usually. It’s not so much a 26650 to 21700 spacer as it is an extension for the D4S tube to make the gap longer, to fit the longer cell. Emisar makes the lights very compact, not much room for us to mod them, so to use the longer cell takes some creativity… a copper washer fitted between the head and tube and another between the tube and tail cap gains this bit of length that’s required. Kawi has a lot of experience finding the loop holes.
Jordan, Kawi makes the copper spacers from copper washers usually. It’s not so much a 26650 to 21700 spacer as it is an extension for the D4S tube to make the gap longer, to fit the longer cell. Emisar makes the lights very compact, not much room for us to mod them, so to use the longer cell takes some creativity… a copper washer fitted between the head and tube and another between the tube and tail cap gains this bit of length that’s required. Kawi has a lot of experience finding the loop holes.
Will the led survived in the long term using 21700?
It will probably have a shorter life span, yes. But when it’s normal life span is measured in terms of 50,000 hours what is a short life span? 10,000 hours? 1,000? Far more than most of us will ever use a flashlight.
In this case, djozz has tested the XP-L HI to near 1800 lumens, in Kawi’s light the emitters have to be making some 1750 lumens to make the 6000 lumens that box measured. (optic loses 9%, lens loses at least another 3-5% and that’s being gracious, not counting any driver or wiring, trace, switch losses) So yes, pushing these to their theoretical limits we can expect they will have a reduced life… still acceptable to most of us all things considered.
nice little lineup
MT09R blue // D1S grey // MT09R green
Wuben E345 //Astrolux E01 green // D1 green // D4S green // D4 green / Astrolux TI3A // Thorfire TK01 // Wuben E503
Reylight Pineapple Mini // SWM Comet ? // Maratac AAA CU
I’m guessing the D1S is the black/sorta smooth one.
Thank you! That’s about one third of my lights.
MT09R blue // D1S grey // MT09R green
Wuben E345 //Astrolux E01 green // D1 green // D4S green // D4 green / Astrolux TI3A // Thorfire TK01 // Wuben E350
Reylight Pineapple Mini // RovyVon A4Ti // Olight I3E CU
Good eye!
Peace to you!
When I'm spending mon€y foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...
I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...
Wait, you don’t have one of these??? I’m confused. I figured surely you’d have a MT09R…
Am I being “punked?”
Any idea whether your black Liitokala is genuine or not, assuming there is fake Liitokala 26650 cells now??? Do you remember roughly when you ordered your Liitokala? And if you have an analysing charger, do you mind checking the capacity of your Black Liitokala 26650 cells?
I was all set to order a pack of 4 Black Liitokala 26650 cells from them till I noticed several more recent posts suggesting Liitokala Official Store on AE also sells fake non-Liitokala cells, so I am starting to wonder if they sell fake Liitokala cells too??? See post here today by ledoman indicating their Panasonic NCR18650B are fakes! Here is another post by Barkuti indicating he has received fake Samsung 25R cells from them as well.
Littokala Aliexpress store!
Yourrid, I don’t have a Haikelight of any kind. Don’t recall seeing that one but the color of that blue/purple is amazing!
Of course, I built my own triple 70.2 from scratch last year that makes 20,000 lumens plus so…
You really need to get a MT09R man. I got one modded by TA in blue; looks fantastic and does 21,000 lumens. I love the blue finish on it.
The SC26 group buy is still going on I think. Cool little light, same blue finish, but it badly needed a different driver and UI. I’ve been searching for a 28mm boost driver with Narsil and side switch LED support, but haven’t found any yet.
I don’t know how small pogo pin arrays go
These are down to 1.27mm pin pitch
https://www.mill-max.com/new_products/detail/12
That would be ~4mm wide in 3×2
And there should be smaller pogos for BGAs
But how to get and to what costs I don’t know.
Can u buy it from TA directly or do you have to buy it from banggood first and then send it to TA for modding?
You can buy it from BG and have it shipped to TA for modding. But the new V2 already comes with the TA designed driver and also have factory spring bypasses. The only thing you might want TA to mod is the emitters. We don’t know what bin emitters the factory comes with but TA can help you put in top bin emitters of a color temperature of your choice.
Anyone know how you ramp the Aux LEDs? I clicked 7 times to get it to low Aux, but when I click again it just goes into ramping of regular leds. Curious to see how bright those blue aux leds could get.
The aux LEDs are only active when the light is off, or locked, and each of these two “off” modes can be configured to operate in four ways:
Off
Low (~0.03 mA)
High (~0.90 mA)
Beacon (high for 0.5s, then off for ~3.5s, then repeat) (avg ~0.11 mA)
When I'm spending mon€y foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...
I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...
Yeah, the aux LEDs don’t ramp. The ‘high’ mode on them is as bright as they get, but you can change that by swapping out the resistor on the aux LED board.
Got my Green Emisar from Mtn Electronics today, so I cleaned the contacts and springs with NO-OX-ID “A” Special and popped a Black and Gold Liitokala charged to 4.21v set the meter on the T/A maukka calibrated tube to MAX hold….and got 4,840lm. at turn on…
Spaced the battery tube out with (2) 2mm x27mmx30.5mm copper sealing rings, so I didn’t crush the springs, when using a full charged 4.21v 21700 30T and registered 6,070lm. at turn on…
Bad to the Bone stock Rocket!
And yes it still works fine.. 
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Thanks. I still can’t seem to get it into “high” mode. I do the 7 clicks to get it to aux LED, but no matter what I do after that, it still seems to be on low.
Holy smoke. Almost 5000 lumen . Thanks for the test kiwi.
The low is very low…hardly noticeable before the “high” mode. It can be hard to see in a lit room…
The “high” mode is far from “high” as lumens go…its almost moonlightish
Goto OFF, try seven clicks and turn off the lights and see if it is barely glowing…
When I'm spending mon€y foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...
I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...
Thanks so much! You’re totally right. I couldn’t even tell when it was on low mode because there is still a good deal of light in the room. It is very faint.
Great! Glad it works!
Its a wonderful fistful of stupid bright light…and the UI is awesome!
Thanks TK!
When I'm spending mon€y foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...
I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...
Received my D4s from MTN today, the size is slightly bigger than I expect!
From L to R: Fireflies ROT66, D4s, DQG Tiny 26650 3th & Haikelite SC26 (26350 tube).
Holy cow this definitely is brighter than the D4! 6,000 lumens with 21700 makes it even more insane!
Btw, do you really mean you cleaned the contacts and springs with NO-OX-ID? I thought it was only used as a thread grease but with electrical conductance for reduced resistance through the threads. I have the NO-OX-ID too but from my testing, it didn’t increase any lumens unfortunately.
No-Ox-ID
“NO-OX-ID electrical contact lubricant prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides, and other corrosion deposits and is also used as a battery terminal grease”
Not sure where you got the idea it was a thread lubricant, it’s formulated to clean electrical contacts and provide a non-oxidizing layer of protection to maintain optimum battery to contact performance.
Perhaps the lumens reading from that box is questionable, who knows… far be it for me to say… but I DO see that it’s not mating to the lights properly in Kawi’s pics of the TN42.
Thanks for the clarification. I found the no-ox-id recommended by someone in a thread lubricant thread and I bought it for that purpose. I never realize it wasn’t intended for that. However, it does work well as a thread lubricant and being meant for electrical contact means I don’t have to worry about grease getting on my batteries and springs. I’ve been having problems with my TC20 turbo mode because thread grease gets on the battery contacts and I have to clean with alcohol to fix.
charles lin, thanks for the comparison pic. The D4S makes the ROT66 look smaller than I imagine. Can’t wait to receive both.
KawiBoy1428 thanks for the info! Where did you get the copper rings? Also, are there cheap 21700 -> 26650 spacer/sleeves available anywhere? A quick google search only turned up brackets but not sleeves. Thanks!
Jordan, Kawi makes the copper spacers from copper washers usually. It’s not so much a 26650 to 21700 spacer as it is an extension for the D4S tube to make the gap longer, to fit the longer cell. Emisar makes the lights very compact, not much room for us to mod them, so to use the longer cell takes some creativity… a copper washer fitted between the head and tube and another between the tube and tail cap gains this bit of length that’s required. Kawi has a lot of experience finding the loop holes.
Will the led survived in the long term using 21700?
It will probably have a shorter life span, yes. But when it’s normal life span is measured in terms of 50,000 hours what is a short life span? 10,000 hours? 1,000? Far more than most of us will ever use a flashlight.
In this case, djozz has tested the XP-L HI to near 1800 lumens, in Kawi’s light the emitters have to be making some 1750 lumens to make the 6000 lumens that box measured. (optic loses 9%, lens loses at least another 3-5% and that’s being gracious, not counting any driver or wiring, trace, switch losses) So yes, pushing these to their theoretical limits we can expect they will have a reduced life… still acceptable to most of us all things considered.
Cool.. I was think it only good for 1 hour.
Got email notification. Shockli 26650 are back in stock now mtnelectronics.
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