Emisar D4S review

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The_Flashaholic
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Newlumen wrote:
I couldn’t wait for the shockli 26650 to be fully charged.. it is 4.08v and I got 4730 lumen @ turn on. I use Texas ace tube for the lumen specs.

Xpl hi 5000k tint.. big hotspot.. look more into cool white tint.

I couldn’t wait either, my XP-L 5000k came today and I got 4650 lumens at 4.10v with a Shockli on the KG-Lightbox, the shockli are taking hours to fully charge.

My ROT66 came too, faulty.

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV

maukka
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KG_Tuning wrote:
My ROT66 came too, faulty.

Bummer! What’s wrong with it?

The_Flashaholic
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maukka wrote:
KG_Tuning wrote:
My ROT66 came too, faulty.

Bummer! What’s wrong with it?

One of the LED’s isn’t working. The Nichia ROT66 is fine though.

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV

zeroflow
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Gavka wrote:
I’m an absolute newbie. For starters, I would like to learn how to flash new firmware in my D4S. Where did you buy such adapter for the D4S?

Ok. Starting with the basics, assuming everything has to be bought.

1. Buying the hardware

First you need the programmer itself, an USB ASP Programmer.
The original can be found here https://www.fischl.de/usbasp/ while you can find it cheaper on Aliexpress or on Amazon
For the D4 or other boards without the nice connectors, you will need an SOIC8 programming clip to connect to the chip

Also, to get nearly any kind of connection, I suggest a set of Dupoint connectors
You will use this cable to make connections between the Pins of the programmer and either the clip or the D4S programming pads.

2. Connections
Now lets look at the available connections, with an example for the D4S.
You have the programmer

And you have the D4S

Now you take the female-male dupont cables and connect it the following way:

USBasp -> D4S
GND (any) to V- (top left)
MOSI to MO
RST to RS
SCK to SC
MISO to MI
VCC to V+ (bottom right)

The result may look like this

(for the BLF Q8 ,D4 or so, you do the same thing but with the connector of the clip. But that’s out of scope for now)

3. Flashing itself

Get the hex-file from here: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/ – take the latest date of anduril for your light
Tutorial for avrdude is here: http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/avrdude.html

Short version of the tutorial:

  • Download hex from toykeeper.net
  • Download avrdude
  • Run this command: avrdude.exe -p attiny85 -c usbasp -Uflash:w:anduril.YYYY-MM-DD.EMISAR_D4S.hex:a
The_Flashaholic
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Cells were fully charged and I have 2 of each cell.
Tests done in the KG-Lightbox.

Shockli 5500 mah: 4600 lumens
AWT 5200 mah: 4650 lumens
(D4 XP-L with VTC5A: 4300)

Very tough to call as it’s around 4600 for a split second. The Shockli both came on at 4400 at 4.20v though which was weird, they perform a bit better around 4.10-4.15v

A quick ceiling bounce with the ceiling bounce app calibrated to read 4300 off an Emisar D4 XP-L yeilded the same results:
D4 XP-L 4300
D4S XP-L 4600

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV

LichtAn
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Can anyone commend on the Neutral White – XP-G2 S4 5D, 4000K tint and the current draw on full power of the XP-G2 in general? How about tint shift and amount of yellow/green/red? Thinking about getting it as a warmer addition to the XP-L 5000K.

wstrachan
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I ordered mine two weeks ago from international outdoors with a Liitokla cell for $70. I am very anxiously awaiting delivery!! i have the D4 and love it but it has it’s drawbacks. I don’t love how easily it can be accidentally turned on and certainly the heat (40 second stepdown) is not favorable.

light addict....yeah I've got the bug.

Atrolux MF02_O2S
Imalent DT70
Emissar (All Models)
Lumintop ODL20C
Wuben A21 & T70
thrunite tn32 ut
acebeam k60
many, many others...

The_Flashaholic
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I tried setting thermal calibration to 50c and all I could manage to do was create a beacon that can’t be disabled.

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV

CM2010
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Got mine today only took 6 days to the UK.

Mr.Beam
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maybe my niece and my nephew accidentally changed the default "current temperature" setting while playing with my d4s... is it possible to make a factory reset (and, in case of yes, how?) or do i have to reconfigure the thermal settings on my own now? many thanks in advance for any support...
 
btw: the aux leds of mine aren't cyan but green. that is quite odd.
CM2010
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I got green with mine.

deleted-200707
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mine on lowest setting could be mistaken for green, butt on higher setting are definitely cyan

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ohbreeeezy wrote:
Anyone got a pic of the magnet tailcap?

They are identical except for the weight.

CM2010
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Just tried to take a pic of mine using my phone and it does look cyan but the moment I take it away it looks green.

Eyes are playing tricks.

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note to TK…as you noted briefly, the edge/corner on the lanyard hole is as sharp as my younger mind was Party
doesn’t take much to knock it down w/stone or file, butt it is uncomfortable in hand.

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patmurris wrote:
Received a grey Nichia D4S today from Intl-outdoor – ordered August 3 (20 days ago).

That’s pretty fast shipping.. congrats and enjoy.

Newlumen
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KG_Tuning wrote:
I tried setting thermal calibration to 50c and all I could manage to do was create a beacon that can’t be disabled.

Thats why i dont want to mess with it.. i just leave the light the way it is..

Newlumen
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CM2010 wrote:
Just tried to take a pic of mine using my phone and it does look cyan but the moment I take it away it looks green.

Eyes are playing tricks.

How many green d4s model is out there ? Is it the same ? Or lightning fixture?

C67_DF41_E-37_D3-47_C4-86_B4-2_F25_BB5_E580_A

1_C9_E58_FE-2_E3_E-49_E1-8875-_A7764_B3_C7558
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I vote #2 butt a bit brighter
You will never find a perfect match
online with monitors as such

Yourrid
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Apparently my D4S is stuck in limbo somewhere. Chinese tracking says it cleared US customs on the 20th, but no US tracking service has picked it up yet.

Ordered 8/3…. still waiting here in Georgia. Tired

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Gavka wrote:
Do you plan to add OFF-timer?

No, but Anduril has two modes which shut themselves off. The sunset mode dims for an hour then shuts off. Or the candle mode can run for up to 4.5 hours in increments of 30 minutes, before it shuts itself off.

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Gavka wrote:
I would like to learn how to flash new firmware in my D4S. Where did you buy such adapter for the D4S?

The “README” file in the firmware repository contains information about how to get started, including links to hardware and a few tutorials. It can be found at the first link in my signature.

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I finally got around to looking into Anduril and it seems wonderful! Should give me an nice break from figuring out the mess that is native SSH support in Windows 10 for launchpad. I can use that time for my Calculus 3 class.

eas
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Does anyone else’s (green) body tube have four fine (<1mm) equally spaced lines on the outside, running the length of the tube? It looks like the dye was applied in four sections and that there is a little overlap at the borders of each.

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Mr.Beam wrote:
maybe my niece and my nephew accidentally changed the default “current temperature” setting while playing with my d4s… is it possible to make a factory reset (and, in case of yes, how?) or do i have to reconfigure the thermal settings on my own now?

There is no factory reset, but it wouldn’t help much anyway because the thermal sensor isn’t calibrated at the factory. That can only be done manually.

To find out what the light thinks the current temperature is, go to tempcheck mode. Three clicks from off, then wait a moment, then click twice. It’ll then blink out what it perceives as the current temperature in C. For example, if it thinks it’s 31 C, it’ll blink 3 times, then pause, then blink 1 time, then pause for a longer time. Then it’ll check temperature again and repeat.

From there, click 4 times to go to thermal config mode. Or, from off, click 10 times. Either way works. The light should then blink once, then stutter or “buzz” for a few seconds. During this buzz, you can click to tell it what the actual temperature is. If you’re in a room at 22 C, click 22 times. There is no need to hurry; it’ll wait until you stop clicking for 3 seconds.

Then it should blink twice, and buzz again. During this buzz, you can set a temperature limit. The default limit is 45 C. To set a new limit, click a bunch of times, one click per degree C, minus 30. So, for 45 C, click 15 times. For 50 C, click 20 times.

The light should then go back to whatever mode it was in before — tempcheck or “off”. When that happens, the new settings should be saved. This should only ever have to be done once.

LichtAn
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zeroflow wrote:

Ok. Starting with the basics, assuming everything has to be bought.

1. Buying the hardware

Thanks, just ordered the whole package. Thumbs Up

The_Flashaholic
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Cheers ToyKeeper I clicked 50 times for 50c and not 20!

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV

joechina
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Mark M wrote:
Overall I love the new firmware! I love the new stepped ramping. Good job ToyKeeper. Thanks for all of your hard work.

I do have some feedback after using it a few days. The most annoying feature is not being able to exit momentary mode without pulling the battery. I understand why momentary mode has no exit. In my opinion it should take more than 4 clicks to activate it since the mode has no exit function built in. Because of timing idiosyncrasies I always seemingly activate momentary mode instead of lockout when the light is off. I find that I have to slow down my clicking. The fact that I have pull the battery to exit is frustrating, at least this is open source so I am going to reflash it with some changes.

The other other feedback that I have is that it takes longer for the light to turn off when in ramping mode. I guess because it is waiting to see if there is any more user input? But the delay seems oddly long.

I appreciate the flashing breakout being accessible.

If you flash Andúril you get a similar UI with 5 clicks for momentary and 4 clicks to lock out.
Andúril is described in the FW3A thread, the first post.

hodor
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Newlumen wrote:
CM2010 wrote:
Just tried to take a pic of mine using my phone and it does look cyan but the moment I take it away it looks green.

Eyes are playing tricks.

How many green d4s model is out there ? Is it the same ? Or lightning fixture?

C67_DF41_E-37_D3-47_C4-86_B4-2_F25_BB5_E580_A

1_C9_E58_FE-2_E3_E-49_E1-8875-_A7764_B3_C7558
free photo host

The green D1 I bought a few weeks ago looks like your D4S, looks like it’s faded and washed out. The photos on the website and from other people make it look darker and richer.

strayz
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Here are mine compared but I EDC my 4d. 

 

 

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