Emisar D4S review

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nokoff
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Thanks ToyKeeper.

In this case where the driver isn’t asking for current, is the biggest concern static electricity?

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nick779
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ToyKeeper wrote:
nick779 wrote:
Curious though, should the battery ever get critically low from the aux leds, will the light shut off completely with over discharge protection?

The only thing I would potentially change is the “high” setting of the Aux lights, or possibly include a “medium” and id love a candle mode like Anduril has.

I still wish lockout was 4 clicks like Narsil, but im guessing quite a few use momentary if its prioritized.

The low-voltage protection only works while the light is awake. So if something drains the power while it’s asleep, like the aux LEDs do, it can’t respond. About what happens while awake though, I’ll have to double check what LVP does with the aux LEDs. At the very least, they should get dim when voltage is low, or even turn off entirely, since they’re basically direct drive with a resistor in the way to reduce voltage.

Due to the way the aux LEDs are implemented, it can only have three levels — high, low, and off. To do a medium mode, the light would have to stay awake to quickly pulse the LEDs on and off, and that would cost more power than just leaving it in high mode.

If you want 4-click lockout and candle mode, you could reflash the firmware…

Already have a USBASP and a SIOC8 clip on the way for testing on junk drivers before modifying this one. Not too worried about modifying the code, but ive never recompiled into a hex before so that will take some research.

Well, modifying TKs extremely well written (and VERY nicely commented) is pretty straightforward. Makes some of the Powershell and Python scripting I see at work look very janky and disorganized. Only difficulty I see is going to be recreating/consolidating some of the structure for some of the calls in the code to other define files.

AlexGT
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I was intentionally NOT wanting to open this thread for a long time because I knew that if I did I would probably get one… Guess curiosity killed the cat! Facepalm LOL

So now after a very long decision process ( probably 10 seconds Ha! ) I want one! Party I will order the XP-L Hi 3A tint in either black or grey (What is the consensus here? Which one looks better? Does the gray color match head body tail color?) with either Cyan or Amber Aux light (Again which one looks better?)

I really want to get both magnetic and non-magnetic tailcaps, if I select the “Magnet in the tailcap Yes ( $2.99 )” option, will I get BOTH tail caps?

Thanks in advance for your help!

AlexGT

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I have a green host with Nichia and cyan AUX LED. The green host seems to tint the main beam and the AUX LED toward green FYI. You could get a green host with red for that Christmas spirit lol

I also have a black XPL HI 5000k like you’re considering, with cyan AUX LED. The beam is very nicely white and no green, creamy white even next to my Nichia. Super bright.

If you choose Magnet in the tailcap for 2.99 and extra tailcap without magnet for 3.99 then you’ll get both. It is confusing. It’s an extra $7USD for both tailcaps basically.

The gray looks consistent to me. I can’t say that it doesn’t, however I really like the black in this torch. I’m thinking of an Amber in black for myself.

Also anyone. I’ve had my green one for some time and just got the black yesterday. The AUX LED are MUCH brighter for some reason in the new black. Both are Cyan colored. I’m doing a battery drain test today. I found ToyKeeper’s amp draw chart however I don’t think my old Fluke is cooperating. Any idea why the huge difference in AUX LED brightness. and Yes, I set both to High in the UI.

939-DBFA2-B771-4-B4-C-ADDD-6-A7-D6078362-E

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I bought a Titanium D4 and got the short tube as well, then put the Titanium 18650 tube on my black D1S, the silver tube matches the silver switch retaining ring and looks really sharp. Smile

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I got a couple of the small colored Ti tubes. I like their looks and the added weight on the D1.

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Just ordered black light with red aux LEDs

Recently saw a YouTube video with this combination and it looked cool (at least to me) Smile

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Thank you for the reply, I tried to find the link to the extra tailcap for this light but could not find it on their website, is it something you add as a comment on your order? hmmm….

I will probably order black body, XP-L Hi 3A tint and amber aux leds and 26650 battery, just need to solve that extra tail cap issue…

Edit, oh! I see now what you meant on how to order the second tail cap, thanks!

nokoff wrote:
I have a green host with Nichia and cyan AUX LED. The green host seems to tint the main beam and the AUX LED toward green FYI. You could get a green host with red for that Christmas spirit lol

I also have a black XPL HI 5000k like you’re considering, with cyan AUX LED. The beam is very nicely white and no green, creamy white even next to my Nichia. Super bright.

If you choose Magnet in the tailcap for 2.99 and extra tailcap without magnet for 3.99 then you’ll get both. It is confusing. It’s an extra $7USD for both tailcaps basically.

nokoff
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Ah, I was referring to Hank’s Intl-Outdoors site. Richard at Mtn Electronics doesn’t offer a magnetic tailcap at all.

AlexGT wrote:
Thank you for the reply, I tried to find the link to the extra tailcap for this light but could not find it on their website, is it something you add as a comment on your order? hmmm….

I will probably order black body, XP-L Hi 3A tint and amber aux leds and 26650 battery, just need to solve that extra tail cap issue…

nokoff wrote:
I have a green host with Nichia and cyan AUX LED. The green host seems to tint the main beam and the AUX LED toward green FYI. You could get a green host with red for that Christmas spirit lol

I also have a black XPL HI 5000k like you’re considering, with cyan AUX LED. The beam is very nicely white and no green, creamy white even next to my Nichia. Super bright.

If you choose Magnet in the tailcap for 2.99 and extra tailcap without magnet for 3.99 then you’ll get both. It is confusing. It’s an extra $7USD for both tailcaps basically.

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Jay
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nokoff wrote:
Ah, I was referring to Hank’s Intl-Outdoors site. Richard at Mtn Electronics doesn’t offer a magnetic tailcap at all.

AlexGT wrote:
Thank you for the reply, I tried to find the link to the extra tailcap for this light but could not find it on their website, is it something you add as a comment on your order? hmmm….

I will probably order black body, XP-L Hi 3A tint and amber aux leds and 26650 battery, just need to solve that extra tail cap issue…

nokoff wrote:
I have a green host with Nichia and cyan AUX LED. The green host seems to tint the main beam and the AUX LED toward green FYI. You could get a green host with red for that Christmas spirit lol

I also have a black XPL HI 5000k like you’re considering, with cyan AUX LED. The beam is very nicely white and no green, creamy white even next to my Nichia. Super bright.

If you choose Magnet in the tailcap for 2.99 and extra tailcap without magnet for 3.99 then you’ll get both. It is confusing. It’s an extra $7USD for both tailcaps basically.

The one from Richard at Mtn Electronics comes stock with the magnetic tail cap. You can also order the non-magnetic tail cap from them separately for $3.99.

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Thank you, I figured out how to place the order from intl-outdoor, hope I get it fast.

I ordered

D4S black body, XP-L Hi 3A tint
Amber Aux leds
26650 5000mah battery

I ordered this diffuser for it.

https://www.banggood.com/Convoy-LED-Flashlight-Diffuser-Soft-Light-Shade-2Specifications-For-Convoy-S2S2S3S5S6C8M1M2-p-1263623.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&ID=512824&cur_warehouse=CN

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You can also purchase the D4S with different colors AUX lights from NEAL. If you don’t see the option in stock you can message him and he will get one for you.

NealsGadgets

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Jay, thanks for the correction!

Alex, I wouldn’t say that “fast” is their thing. I’ve had from 2 weeks to over a month, it just depends on Customs. Hank’s Emisar are perfect items with the most up to date everything. That’s the good thing about China, not as many returns lol.

Fate, how quick is Neal? I’ve never ordered from him. He’d still have to get it from Hank if not in stock right? Does he get anything unique? Color combos maybe?

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nokoff wrote:
Jay, thanks for the correction!

Alex, I wouldn’t say that “fast” is their thing. I’ve had from 2 weeks to over a month, it just depends on Customs. Hank’s Emisar are perfect items with the most up to date everything. That’s the good thing about China, not as many returns lol.

Fate, how quick is Neal? I’ve never ordered from him. He’d still have to get it from Hank if not in stock right? Does he get anything unique? Color combos maybe?

Neal is super fast and you can get DHL shipping which gets it to ya in the states in 2-3days (my experience at least). I am not sure if he orders them in or has stock of them, if you search around there is a coupon code to get it cheaper through Neal.

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nokoff wrote:
Any idea why the huge difference in AUX LED brightness. and Yes, I set both to High in the UI.

939-DBFA2-B771-4-B4-C-ADDD-6-A7-D6078362-E

That’s about how it should look with one set to low and one set to high. But if they’re both set to high, I don’t know. This is the first I’ve heard of the aux LEDs being too dim. Maybe a resistor value changed?

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I have dealt with both Neal and Intl-outdoor before, both are great guys with awesome service! I am confident I will get my order perfect! Wish the actual wait time was shorter but I understand it is not under their control.

Anyone received their D4S with the amber aux leds? I only seen one picture so far…

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ToyKeeper wrote:
nokoff wrote:
Any idea why the huge difference in AUX LED brightness. and Yes, I set both to High in the UI.

939-DBFA2-B771-4-B4-C-ADDD-6-A7-D6078362-E

That’s about how it should look with one set to low and one set to high. But if they’re both set to high, I don’t know. This is the first I’ve heard of the aux LEDs being too dim. Maybe a resistor value changed?

ToyKeeper thanks for responding! The brighter one on the right is the new one. The one on the left is actually a normal high but the newer one overpowered my camera making it look dim in comparison. The D4S on the left has a normal high, similar to a moonlight low mode. The one on the right is so bright it lights up the room at night.

I performed a battery drain test for the past 12 hours, using two identical Shockli 26650 from the same set. The old D4S (left) lost less than .01 volts however the new D4S on the right lost a noticeable .07. It went from 4.17 to 4.10 volts in just 12 hours of High Aux only. Any thoughts on that? TIA

I suppose that I should exchange it with Hank at Intl-Outdoor. Just got it yesterday.

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If you have a multimeter, I’d suggest measuring current draw during standby with the aux LEDs on high and on low. It should be about 0.03 mA on low, and about 0.90 mA on high… ish. But it sounds like your new light may be on order of magnitude higher, like 10 mA on high?

How bright is it on low?

Maybe there’s a solder bridge under the resistor, bypassing it and making the aux LEDs brighter. If that’s the case, you might be able to fix it just by touching a dry soldering iron to it a couple times to pull up extra solder.

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Aux low on the two D4S look identical, like nothing more than trits down beneath the optics, at least to my eyes.

My Fluke with clamp isn’t reliable right now unfortunately which is why I did the manual test.

The last part is a bit beyond my comfort level I’m afraid.

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Oh, a clamp meter wouldn’t really work for such low current. A regular wired DMM is better for this.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Oh, a clamp meter wouldn’t really work for such low current. A regular wired DMM is better for this.

Oh ok… I’ll give it a shot then tomorrow with my other DMM. Thanks!

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ToyKeeper wrote:
If you have a multimeter, I’d suggest measuring current draw during standby with the aux LEDs on high and on low. It should be about 0.03 mA on low, and about 0.90 mA on high… ish. But it sounds like your new light may be on order of magnitude higher, like 10 mA on high?

How bright is it on low?

Maybe there’s a solder bridge under the resistor, bypassing it and making the aux LEDs brighter. If that’s the case, you might be able to fix it just by touching a dry soldering iron to it a couple times to pull up extra solder.

First got a D4S Nichia from Intl-Outdoor (comes with cyan aux-LEDs)
Then ordered another D4S from Neal, with green aux-LED

(left is aux-LEDs on Low and right is aux-LEDs on High; same camera exposure settings: 1/50sec ISO-800 f/2.8)

My DMM with mA and uA setting is a Mastech MS8229, which I’m not sure is how well calibrated..

But testing the aux-LEDs in Low mode and High mode, I get the following:
cyan aux-LED “Low” ~ 0.07-0.08mA
cyan aux-LED “High” ~ 1.25mA

green aux-LED “Low” ~ 0.07-0.08mA
green aux-LED “High” ~ 1.35mA

aux-LEDs “Off” ~ 0.03mA

Seems like the drain is quite a bit higher than the .03mA or the 0.90mA?

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d_t_a wrote:
Seems like the drain is quite a bit higher than the .03mA or the 0.90mA?

It’s close enough. The difference may just be because I measured at around 3.7V to get an average. The drain is higher on a full battery and lower on an empty battery.

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Just wanted to share a picture I found on Neal’s Instagram web viewer of the amber aux leds.,, I think they look nice!

Amber and red

Just the amber

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AlexGT wrote:
Just wanted to share a picture I found on Neal’s Instagram web viewer of the amber aux leds.,, I think they look nice!

Amber and red

That’s actually cippi’s photo, originally posted here.

I’ve found some of my own photos on Neal’s feed too, like pretty much the entire set of photos at the beginning of this thread. If I understand correctly, what happens is someone copies the photos to forums in .cn, Neal finds them there, and he posts them to his feed. And this is why I’ve been considering adding a watermark of some sort on my images from now on, perhaps with the original URLs on them. They’ll still get copied, but at least it’ll point back toward the original source.

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Which led is the most efficient? Which gets the hottest ? I have an XPL Hi V2 3A and a XP-G2 S4 3D
TIA
Chris

Chris

richbuff said “Sometimes, I feel depressed about my spirit having been cast down to the hostile surface of this one-star planet, without my asking God first, and without God asking me first. I have found that a brief burst of maximum light from what is currently the smallest size flashlight per power makes it all ok/fine for a while, until the next time I feel the need to repeat.”

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christoph wrote:
Which led is the most efficient? Which gets the hottest ?

The LED comparison table in my D4 review mostly still applies. XP-L HI gets the most lumens and candelas, Nichia 219C gets the hottest, and efficiency is typically highest on XP-G2 for modes under ~2500 lm and highest on XP-L HI for modes over ~3000 lm.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
If you have a multimeter, I’d suggest measuring current draw during standby with the aux LEDs on high and on low. It should be about 0.03 mA on low, and about 0.90 mA on high… ish. But it sounds like your new light may be on order of magnitude higher, like 10 mA on high?

How bright is it on low?

Maybe there’s a solder bridge under the resistor, bypassing it and making the aux LEDs brighter. If that’s the case, you might be able to fix it just by touching a dry soldering iron to it a couple times to pull up extra solder.

Well it’s worse than expected. The aux led got .07 mA on low, and 26.4 mA on high.

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Yow. 26.4 mA on high. That certainly sounds like the resistor got bridged or something, because that’s close to the maximum amount the attiny can supply. It’s 26 times higher than it should be.

You could just leave it on low though. Sounds like that’s a nice tritium-like level.

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I remember reading on one of the Emisar threads what the variance was in the voltage readings but I cant remember what the range was. I bought 2 D4S from Mtn and the XPL-HI reads +.2v and the 219c reads -.1v. I believe that is in spec, but I was just wondering. Either way, im reflashing both and will tweak the fudge factor value to fix it.

I will say though that I was a bit hyped to get my 219c version, but its VERY noticeably green tinted. The XPL-HI 5D is absolutely perfect though.

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