Emisar D4S review

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nokoff
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Yow. 26.4 mA on high. That certainly sounds like the resistor got bridged or something, because that’s close to the maximum amount the attiny can supply. It’s 26 times higher than it should be.

You could just leave it on low though. Sounds like that’s a nice tritium-like level.

Thanks TK..can I call you TK? I feel like we’ve been through a lot lol
I think that’s what I’ll do. Also, in some sick, demented, flashaholic way I don’t hate the wildly overdriven AUX LEDs. I just have to be aware not to leave them on. The torch doesn’t get hot but it’s still concerning for battery drain.

Nokoff..still Made in China 山寨主義

valera
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kollers wrote:
Great review!

The D4s can sustain ~1100-1300 Lumen for an extended period of time? Looks promising!

Please help. I can not adjust the temperature (thermal configuration). What should be done to adjust to 45-50 degrees?

ToyKeeper
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valera wrote:
Please help. I can not adjust the temperature (thermal configuration). What should be done to adjust to 45-50 degrees?

This is how to calibrate the sensor and configure a limit of 45-50 degrees C:

  1. Look at a thermometer to check the current room temperature. I’ll assume it says 22 C.
  2. Turn the light off and wait for its temperature to settle to room temperature.
  3. Click 10 times.
  4. The light should blink once, then flicker or “buzz”.
  5. During the “buzz”, click 22 times to tell it the room is 22 C.
  6. The light should blink twice, then flicker or “buzz”.
  7. During the “buzz”, click 15-20 times to tell it you want a temperature limit of 45-50 C.
  8. Wait for the light to return to off.

Afterward, it should attempt to keep itself below 45-50 degrees C.

valera
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ToyKeeper wrote:
valera wrote:
Please help. I can not adjust the temperature (thermal configuration). What should be done to adjust to 45-50 degrees?

This is how to calibrate the sensor and configure a limit of 45-50 degrees C:

  1. Look at a thermometer to check the current room temperature. I’ll assume it says 22 C.
  2. Turn the light off and wait for its temperature to settle to room temperature.
  3. Click 10 times.
  4. The light should blink once, then flicker or “buzz”.
  5. During the “buzz”, click 22 times to tell it the room is 22 C.
  6. The light should blink twice, then flicker or “buzz”.
  7. During the “buzz”, click 15-20 times to tell it you want a temperature limit of 45-50 C.
  8. Wait for the light to return to off.

Afterward, it should attempt to keep itself below 45-50 degrees C.

Thank you very much. And what is the scheme for setting the desired temperature? (if you need to change the temperature) One click is how many degrees?

DB Custom
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The temp default setting is 30, so if you want to change it you add to the 30 (hence, click 15 times to get 45, or 20 times to get 50)

valera
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DB Custom wrote:
The temp default setting is 30, so if you want to change it you add to the 30 (hence, click 15 times to get 45, or 20 times to get 50)

Thank. Please specify.
These items (5.6) are required to perform or make “Click 10 times” (3) and perform “During the“ buzz ”, click 15-20 times.
“hence, click now to 30 (hence, click 15 times to get 45, or 20 times to get 50)”?

nick779
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valera wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
The temp default setting is 30, so if you want to change it you add to the 30 (hence, click 15 times to get 45, or 20 times to get 50)

Thank. Please specify.
These items (5.6) are required to perform or make “Click 10 times” (3) and perform “During the“ buzz ”, click 15-20 times.
“hence, click now to 30 (hence, click 15 times to get 45, or 20 times to get 50)”?

Yes. The lowest value you can set the Temp limit to is 30C by not clicking at all. Each click is 1 degree higher than the minimum of 30.

Just dont forget to calibrate the temperature sensor during the first set of flickering.

valera
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nick779 wrote:
valera wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
The temp default setting is 30, so if you want to change it you add to the 30 (hence, click 15 times to get 45, or 20 times to get 50)

Thank. Please specify.
These items (5.6) are required to perform or make “Click 10 times” (3) and perform “During the“ buzz ”, click 15-20 times.
“hence, click now to 30 (hence, click 15 times to get 45, or 20 times to get 50)”?

Yes. The lowest value you can set the Temp limit to is 30C by not clicking at all. Each click is 1 degree higher than the minimum of 30.

Just dont forget to calibrate the temperature sensor during the first set of flickering.


Thanks for the answer.
So you need to do it.
Calibration
_2.Turn the light off.
3. Click 10 times.
4. The light should blink once, then flicker or “buzz”.
5.During the “buzz”, click 22 times to tell it the room is 22 C.__
_
P.S. Please tell me where you can read about Runtime: in different modes – Turbo and other
valera
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[quote=ToyKeeper
Afterward, it should attempt to keep itself below 45-50 degrees C.[/quote]

ToyKeeper, DB Custom, nick779 !!!. Friends, thank you very much for your help. Now completed all the recommendations. How to check the temperature set by me?

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valera wrote:
P.S. Please tell me where you can read about Runtime: in different modes – Turbo and other
This will greatly vary based on a number of parameters such as your ambient temps, specific battery being used, and emitters that you have, but some rough figures were provided by TK in the original post.
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nick779 wrote:
The lowest value you can set the Temp limit to is 30C by not clicking at all.

Not quite. If you don’t click at all, it will leave the value unchanged. The lowest value the user can set is 31 C, by clicking once.

All config menus “fall through” with no changes if you don’t press the button.

DB Custom
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valera, we sometimes get caught up in the numbers as if it were an exact science. It’s really not. These parameters get us close and that’s about as good as it gets. You can measure the amperage your light is making at different levels and then use this information to estimate run time based on the capacity of the cells you are using, but again this an approximation and not an exact science as the diminishing cells will yield lower and lower current and the run time will gradually extend accordingly. Wink

valera
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nick779 wrote:

Just dont forget to calibrate the temperature sensor during the first set of flickering.

Friends ! How to check the temperature of the installed temperature control.
I did everything according to the recommendations, and how to check it ????

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To my knowledge you can’t read out the temperatur limit what you have set.

But you can read out the temperature of the lamp:
Lamp is OFF: 3 clicks = battery voltage, 2 clicks again = temperature.

Hint: The temperature is from inside the microcontroller. There is probably a little difference between outside when the lamp was on before.

DB Custom
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Or you could leave it for a while and let it stabilize, then check and it should be quite close to the ambient…

valera
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joechina wrote:
To my knowledge you can’t read out the temperatur limit what you have set.

But you can read out the temperature of the lamp:
Lamp is OFF: 3 clicks = battery voltage, 2 clicks again = temperature.

Hint: The temperature is from inside the microcontroller. There is probably a little difference between outside when the lamp was on before.

At D1 can be determined. After 10 quick clicks the flashlight flashes the current temperature limit. Is there no such possibility on the D4S?

“**But you can read out the temperature of the lamp:
Lamp is OFF: 3 clicks = battery voltage, 2 clicks again = temperature.**”

joechina Thank you very much

Made 3 clicks (from off) blinked 3 + 6 times. Carried out a test device-3,6v. The voltage is correct. But after 2 clicks 2 + 29. What is it?

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valera wrote:
joechina wrote:
To my knowledge you can’t read out the temperatur limit what you have set.

But you can read out the temperature of the lamp:
Lamp is OFF: 3 clicks = battery voltage, 2 clicks again = temperature.

Hint: The temperature is from inside the microcontroller. There is probably a little difference between outside when the lamp was on before.

At D1 can be determined. After 10 quick clicks the flashlight flashes the current temperature limit. Is there no such possibility on the D4S?

“**But you can read out the temperature of the lamp:
Lamp is OFF: 3 clicks = battery voltage, 2 clicks again = temperature.**”

I have 2 clicks include TURBO

The D1 uses RampingIOS v2 which is a custom firmware.

On the other hand, the D4S uses RampingIOS v3 which is just Andúril with some minor changes requested by Hank.

If you compare the code or the manuals, you will see, that currently there is no way to get the current set max. temperature.
You can of course, update RampingIOS v3 or Anduril to do that. But you lose your current setting when flashing.

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valera wrote:
At D1 can be determined. After 10 quick clicks the flashlight flashes the current temperature limit. Is there no such possibility on the D4S?

No.

In RampingIOS V2, the limit was set by letting the light get hot. It could also display the value, to help the user see if they got the specific value they wanted. In practice, this would often take a few tries, and people had to guess until they got close enough.

In RampingIOS V3, the user can set the value directly, instead of using the sloppy “release when hot” method. So there is less need to display the value.

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To blink out the temperature:

  • switch off the light
  • Click 3 times for voltage
  • Click another 2 times for temperature blink out.

(Edit: I will leave it like this now, but the next time I’ll refresh the browser first… Promised! Cool )

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Well, just finished an infuriating flash session with my D4S.

It absolutely REFUSED to flash with the 219c attached. Desoldered them as I was switching to XPL-HIs and it immediately flashed with 0 errors. Not sure if I got lucky the first time, but I repeatedly got transmit errors around the 1% and 60% mark. Im thinking its more hardware related as in with my laptop, and the low vF emitters or something. Really weird.

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nick779 wrote:
Well, just finished an infuriating flash session with my D4S.

It absolutely REFUSED to flash with the 219c attached. Desoldered them as I was switching to XPL-HIs and it immediately flashed with 0 errors. Not sure if I got lucky the first time, but I repeatedly got transmit errors around the 1% and 60% mark. Im thinking its more hardware related as in with my laptop, and the low vF emitters or something. Really weird.

No, corrected from Toykeeper.
Lexcel wrote you must desolder the AuX-LEDS on the ROT66 to flash it. Maybe that is the same reason on the D4S?

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Could the 219C have been reflowed in an incorrect orientation? A short there would have prevented the flash. Low Vf wouldn’t have done it, at least I’ve never had that be an issue in all the multitudes of one’s I’ve flashed…

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nick779 wrote:
Well, just finished an infuriating flash session with my D4S.

It absolutely REFUSED to flash with the 219c attached. Desoldered them as I was switching to XPL-HIs and it immediately flashed with 0 errors. Not sure if I got lucky the first time, but I repeatedly got transmit errors around the 1% and 60% mark. Im thinking its more hardware related as in with my laptop, and the low vF emitters or something. Really weird.

The problem could be the power supply.
If you take a close look, the main LED flashes for a bit when data is transferred as both of the channels use the same pins as the data lines.
Since the layout connects the programmers power supply directly to battery plus, your programmer has to also power the LEDs.
If you have a programmer that cannot supply enough current, then there will be some kind of error.

Sadly, I cannot offer you a clear solution, but maybe try a USB 3.0 port as they may be able to provide enough current.

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Have anyone found a pocket clip that fits on the D4S?

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joechina wrote:
Lexcel wrote you must desolder the AuX-LEDS on the ROT66 to flash it. Maybe that is the same reason on the D4S?

No, that’s not it. The D4S flashes just fine with aux LEDs installed. The ROT66/PL47 flash issue happens due to the way Lexel’s aux LED board regulates power, and that’s not relevant for Emisar’s designs. Incidentally, this is also why the D4S aux LEDs have a low mode, but the ROT66/PL47 do not.

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AlexGT wrote:
Tjhosan wrote:
Have anyone found a pocket clip that fits on the D4S?

Found this on KaiDomain web cache through Google but apparently is sold out… Sad Maybe we could find another source.

Hey I found them! Party Ordered 1 to see if they fit!

http://kaidomain.com/S025746-DIY-50mm-x-27mm-LED-Flashlight-Pocket-Clip-Black-2pcs

Don’t see how they could fit

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Guess I’ll use it for something else, deleted the post to not create confusion…

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For the love of god, my dad clicked the button a bunch of times and made a complete mess of the programming.

I’ve got it mostly sorted out except I can’t figure out how to get smooth ramping back.

Can someone please spell out the sequence to change it from stepped ramping to smooth ramping?

Thanks!

Edit: Nevermind, found this great “manual”, worked perfect: http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Geekery/rampingios-v3.html

-Jamie M.

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DB Custom wrote:
Could the 219C have been reflowed in an incorrect orientation? A short there would have prevented the flash. Low Vf wouldn’t have done it, at least I’ve never had that be an issue in all the multitudes of one’s I’ve flashed…

The factory noctigon was 219cs, I was going to try to flash it before swapping to the xpl-hi noctigon from my bricked d4s. I’m assuming it was the port but it gave me quite a fight until I desoldered the main and aux emitter boards.

I’ll retest when I have time with the xpl-his with the new flashing adapters I made. The male dupont adapters are a really nice fit in the flashing vias after being crimped and filed down a hair.
I need to double check my USB ports, but I think they’re standard 3.0 but the other ports are the high speed charge 3.0 which I’ll try next. Hopefully its not the laptop. It’s a brand new dell precision workstation.

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toysareforboys wrote:
I can’t figure out how to get smooth ramping back.

While on, click 3 times.

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