Emisar D4S review

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fluke
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Just got mine.

Anyone have a loose front glass?

Lux-Perpetua
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learningtofly wrote:
[...] Keep them coming Hank, 5000k with high CRI would be great. Now for that SST-20 to get here.........

Unfortunately, there is no SST20 5000K with HighCRI available but you could try Samsung's LH351D 5000K 90CRI, if you are able to change LEDs by yourself. Unfortunately, Hank has not offered the D4S with this LED yet.

nokoff
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Just put my 3000k D4S next to some of my other 3000k torches. You’ve already seen that it’s not too warm, so I’m just showing here that it’s not yellow by comparing it to an XML2 3000k single emitter torch I own. It looks brown in comparison, which I really like. You should see it outside; it looks very natural.

Nokoff..still Made in China 山寨主義

F. Premens
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Hi, I’m going for a grey, blue cyan aux led one,but I’m doubting in what led choose, I have a M43 with Nichias and like it, also the beam pattern, but in this one I’m between Neutral White – SST20 5000K,
Neutral White – Nichia 219CT 90CRI, 5000K, Neutral White – XP-L HI V2 3A, 5000K and Neutral White – XP-L HD V6 3D, 5000K, what would you choose?

In this one I would like more flood than throw.

BlueSwordM
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Are you concerned about color quality?

If so, and you want more flood than throw, I would get the Nichia 219C version.

If not for the floodiness, I would just get a 4000k SST-20 95CRI.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
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learningtofly
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

learningtofly wrote:
[…] Keep them coming Hank, 5000k with high CRI would be great. Now for that SST-20 to get here………

Unfortunately, there is no SST20 5000K with HighCRI available but you could try Samsung’s LH351D 5000K 90CRI, if you are able to change LEDs by yourself. Unfortunately, Hank has not offered the D4S with this LED yet.

I have replaced a couple, in single LED lights but replacing 4 at a time sounds like a chore instead of being fun.

Hank will get some 5000k high CRI’s at some point in time, I can wait.

SKV89
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Thanks for the comparison. I really like the SST-20 3000k HD2 tint bin from Kaidomain and this is the same HD2 tint bin except one flux bin higher Thumbs Up

nokoff wrote:
Just put my 3000k D4S next to some of my other 3000k torches. You’ve already seen that it’s not too warm, so I’m just showing here that it’s not yellow by comparing it to an XML2 3000k single emitter torch I own. It looks brown in comparison, which I really like. You should see it outside; it looks very natural. !{width:99%}https://i.imgur.com/S77nfN8_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium!
F. Premens
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Are you concerned about color quality?

If so, and you want more flood than throw, I would get the Nichia 219C version.

If not for the floodiness, I would just get a 4000k SST-20 95CRI.

Thanks for answering, yes, I like it on the Nichias, but the 1000 lumens difference between them is there. The 4000k SSST-20s wouldn’t be too warm?

mortuus
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4000k is probably more on the warmer side so if u dont want that at all u should get min 5000k tint then.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

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F. Premens
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Thanks, I’ve just ordered it with XP-L HD V6 3D. Thumbs Up

polarweis
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white flat 2mm would be really nice.
sst20 also nice but i rather wait for white flat. does anybody now if this is really gone be an option

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

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I got the PL47 in SST-20 4000K 95 CRI and was concerned about it being too warm for my taste. I hadn’t seen the SST-20’s before. The light came in and I found the tint to be very nice, on the warm side of white but not real warm, acceptable even to me. But, alas, the light is being gifted. To remedy that, I promptly ordered another light for me with the SST-20’s. Big Smile (not an PL47)

PBWilson
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I’m a little bit on the fence regarding the emitters for my next flashlight. So many choices (which is fantastic) but I’m stuck.

My choices are between the SST-20 4000K 95CRI and the XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K.

They have similar throw from what Hank reports on his site and even though the XP-L throws a little better, that’s not my intended use for this light. The XP-L has about 1000 more lumens over the SST-20 but I wonder if it’s really meaningful on a visible and heat-related level. If it cranks out more lumens, I’d guess that there’d be more heat and a quicker stepdown. If it’s a bit brighter for a very short amount of time, it’s not worth the extra $ as well. The advantage of the SST-20 for me is the High CRI and lower cost. The HI has been reported to be a pretty efficient emitter but what’s the limit for lumens in a light this size?

Any thoughts to make me lean toward one over the other? I’m thinking that the SST-20 is the better choice for me.

Maybe a discussion of how many lumens are reasonable for a light this size. It’s fun to ramp it up and wow friends and scare pests in my gardens, but if it’s not sustainable (like my D4), then I’d rather go for a different choice. What do you think?

AlexGT
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Could someone please post a beamshot comparison between the SST-20 4000K 95CRI and the XPL-HI V2 3A? Thanks in advance!

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PBWilson wrote:
If it cranks out more lumens, I’d guess that there’d be more heat and a quicker stepdown. If it’s a bit brighter for a very short amount of time, it’s not worth the extra $ as well.

The opposite should be the case. If we asume power consumption is the same -> more lumens = more efficient = less heat. Basically power is transformed in light and heat. Less light means more heat.

Cheers
Jan

Boro
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Boro wrote:
Hank Wang wrote:
nokoff wrote:
Hank Wang wrote:
SST20 6500K, 5000K, 4000K 95CRI options added for the D4S.

SST-20 6500K: 4200lm / 58,000cd

SST-20 5000K: 4000lm / 55,000cd

SST-20 4000K 95CRI: 3000lm / 41,000cd

I’d love a 3000k warm Smile

Yes, we can offer that, please place the order on the site without choosing the LED & tint, then leave us a note about 3000K SST-20, customs order may take one week to ship.

Excellent! Ordered.

Received, Exactly as ordered 3000 K, shipping time was no longer than normal. $50 for a custom built light with good electronics and strong/versatile UI.

PBWilson
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Jan_Ds wrote:
PBWilson wrote:
If it cranks out more lumens, I’d guess that there’d be more heat and a quicker stepdown. If it’s a bit brighter for a very short amount of time, it’s not worth the extra $ as well.

The opposite should be the case. If we asume power consumption is the same -> more lumens = more efficient = less heat. Basically power is transformed in light and heat. Less light means more heat.

Cheers
Jan

I can understand that. Thanks for making it clearer in my mind and taking the time to respond.

DB Custom
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I have never found Luminus emitters to be among the class of efficient emitters. Quite the opposite, in my experience Luminus emitters burn through tremendous current while producing a grudging amount of lumens. The SBT-70 is a favorite emitter of mine, but for it’s build structure and round die as well as daylight tint… certainly not for efficiency!

shirnask
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PBWilson wrote:
I’m a little bit on the fence regarding the emitters for my next flashlight. So many choices (which is fantastic) but I’m stuck.

My choices are between the SST-20 4000K 95CRI and the XP-L HI V2 5D 4000K.

They have similar throw from what Hank reports on his site and even though the XP-L throws a little better, that’s not my intended use for this light. The XP-L has about 1000 more lumens over the SST-20 but I wonder if it’s really meaningful on a visible and heat-related level. If it cranks out more lumens, I’d guess that there’d be more heat and a quicker stepdown. If it’s a bit brighter for a very short amount of time, it’s not worth the extra $ as well. The advantage of the SST-20 for me is the High CRI and lower cost. The HI has been reported to be a pretty efficient emitter but what’s the limit for lumens in a light this size?

Any thoughts to make me lean toward one over the other? I’m thinking that the SST-20 is the better choice for me.

Maybe a discussion of how many lumens are reasonable for a light this size. It’s fun to ramp it up and wow friends and scare pests in my gardens, but if it’s not sustainable (like my D4), then I’d rather go for a different choice. What do you think?

As of today I now have both of these. I already had a couple of other SST-20 4000K 95CRI lights so I knew what to expect. As far as tint the XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K hits the sweet spot for me but I really like the high CRI of the SST20 which also has a tighter hot spot (so a bit more throw) It also heats up faster than the XP-L HI V2 5D. The choice for me was to have both Facepalm

twisted raven
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Got my Gray D4S with Amber (Orange) Aux LEDs and 3000k SST20 95 CRI emitters in today.

This newer D4S has chamfered edges along the laynard ring. The first D4S I received had seemingly sharper edges along the ring.

The amber leds are actually just straight orange, and I find them disgusting on high mode, but when on dimmest mode, they look like faintly glowing embers, and is a very nice, natural aesthetic.

The 3000k SST20 95cri emitters are absolutely fantastic. Nice, slightly rosy, warm color— very much like a 3-3200k tungsten halogen bulb. No filters needed on these! Beam profile is almost exactly like my Zebralight SC600 MK3 HI, where there’s a smallish, but evenly filled hotspot, minimal corona, and a largish and useful spill. My previous D4S was the 219C model, and the beam profile was less desirable to me: the hotspot was around the same size, but less defined, and there was a huge corona around it. The 219C also had an ugly green cast to it.

The 95cri SST20 emitters are pure win.

SKV89
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twisted raven wrote:
Got my Gray D4S with Amber (Orange) Aux LEDs and 3000k SST20 95 CRI emitters in today.

This newer D4S has chamfered edges along the laynard ring. The first D4S I received had seemingly sharper edges along the ring.

The amber leds are actually just straight orange, and I find them disgusting on high mode, but when on dimmest mode, they look like faintly glowing embers, and is a very nice, natural aesthetic.

The 3000k SST20 95cri emitters are absolutely fantastic. Nice, slightly rosy, warm color— very much like a 3-3200k tungsten halogen bulb. No filters needed on these! Beam profile is almost exactly like my Zebralight SC600 MK3 HI, where there’s a smallish, but evenly filled hotspot, minimal corona, and a largish and useful spill. My previous D4S was the 219C model, and the beam profile was less desirable to me: the hotspot was around the same size, but less defined, and there was a huge corona around it. The 219C also had an ugly green cast to it.

The 95cri SST20 emitters are pure win.

Great to hear. I have a 3000k ST20 with amber on order from Hank also.

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Twisted raven, I also got my 2 (more) D4’s (not S) today—one 4000K SST-20 and one 3000K SST-20. The 3000K is the warmest light I’ve even owned and was warmer than I anticipated but I agree it’s pretty sick. The 4000K is quite similar to my 5000K Nichias, but yes, a tighter hotspot, very noticeable in throw even for the D4, and no green. I think a 50/50 mix of the 3000K and 4000K would be pretty awesome, but I’m going to try not to remove the bezel from these and “Just let them be” for once.
Cheers

-Zach

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I replaced my amber Aux leds for Cyan Aux leds to match the PL47 Aux Leds. It was super easy to do, great design went into these Emisar lights, wish Hank did his version of the PL47.

oto
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Got my green amber D4S 4000k SST-20. I like the hardware but the UI is a disappointment. If the old Emisar UI was near perfect then the new FSM based RampingIOS V3 has the same little annoying differences that Anduril has:
1. Delayed turn off. This makes the light feel sluggish and unresponsive.
2. Moonlight on button down when turning the light on. If I want to turn on moonlight from off state with click-hold then the timing needs to be perfect. If its too short I get the memorized brightness level, if its too long the light starts ramping up. Most often I end up with too short press because of this “fake” moonlight on button down press (press the button, see the moonlight, think “on nice, that’s what I wanted”, release the button too soon, BOOM!!! get 1000 lumens of memorized brightness).

DB Custom
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It never ceases to amaze me how many different takes people can have on a product.

I LOVE Anduril, pure and simple. There are no glitches as far as I’m concerned, but then I’ve been using it in multiple lights at many different power levels for quite a while now and it’s second nature to me. Whether it’s the green emitter D4 or the 25,000 lumen 458 Ham’r, I can count on consistency of operation and the features I’ve learned to cherish are always there across the board, regardless of whether I picked up the little TK05 or the SP-03, D4S or ODL-20… or any of the others.

Seems to me if someone’s life is lived in a nanosecond environment (not the laid back camping scenario pictured in oto’s avatar) then a more professional and expensive light would be necessary. Mayhap that’s just my relaxed view, having had so much experience with so many lesser interfaces over the past half a decade and hundreds of lights. Diversity can be a good thing for competition, can also be devastating when trying to get anything done…. good examples of this lie in our own group buys with several thousand arguments about what should and shouldn’t be and the project taking a virtual forever to see reality. Designing perfection is certainly a chore I for one do not wish to be put upon with…

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It’s just a matter of getting used to it. Having used Zebralights for so many years (they have the same quirks about them— delayed off and having to get used to moonlight timing), Anduril wasn’t an issue for me.

Whenever I handed my Zebralights or Anduril lights to friends or family though, literally none of them could figure how to turn the flashlights off, and accidentally activated turbo modes or strobe modes. Having a snappy and responsive UI is very nice and natural, but I’m definitely used to the delayed off.

It took me quite a while to get used to the moonlight timing on Zebralights— probably a good week or so— but I’m used to it now.

oto
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Don’t get me wrong, the UI is still quite good. The thing that bothers me is that it is a bit worse than the UI of the previous Emisar lights.

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oto wrote:

  1. Delayed turn off. This makes the light feel sluggish and unresponsive.
  2. Moonlight on button down when turning the light on.

It’s really interesting how divisive these features are. At some point, I really should make a compile-time option to select between immediate on or delayed on, and between immediate off or delayed off. However, the immediate on (moonlight on button down) has been improved since the version Hank uses on the D4S. Specifically, it makes a subtle “blip” when the timing threshold has been reached, to help people get the timing right for moon.

Anyway, the options would be:

  • Delayed on: V2/NarsilM waits until a “click” is either released or held before turning the main LEDs on.
  • Immediate on: V3/Anduril turns the main LEDs on at the ramp floor level as soon as the button is pressed, then either goes up to the memorized level when the button is released, or gives a brief “blip” as a timing hint when it has been held long enough to stay at the floor level.
  • Immediate off: V2/NarsilM turns off the main LEDs as soon as the button is released. If there are any clicks afterward, it turns the LEDs back on again. So, doing a shortcut to turbo means turning the light off for a moment along the way.
  • Delayed off: V3/Anduril waits until it’s sure the user is done pressing the button before turning off or taking other actions. This means double-click to turbo doesn’t cause the LEDs to turn off first, and a click-release-hold to ramp down doesn’t cause a blink either. It also allows other actions without interruptions, like changing the ramp style or going to a config mode or ramping the tint. However, it means there’s a small delay after click before the light turns off.

In more detail, what happens is:

When turning on with a single click…

  1. Button is pressed. V3/Anduril turns on at floor level, V2/NarsilM stays off.
  2. Button is released. V2/NarsilM and Anduril both go immediately to the memorized level.
  3. Timing window expires. Both UIs stop looking for more clicks.

When turning on with a hold…

  1. Button is pressed. V3/Anduril turns on at floor level, V2/NarsilM stays off.
  2. Timing window expires. V2/NarsilM turns on at moon level, V3/Anduril makes a subtle “blip” to provide a timing hint.
  3. Second timing window expires. Both UIs start ramping up.
  4. Eventually, the button is released. Both UIs stop ramping and stay at the current level.

When turning off with a single click…

  1. Button is pressed. Nothing happens.
  2. Button is released. V2/NarsilM turns off, V3/Anduril waits for more input.
  3. Timing window expires. V3/Anduril turns off and goes to sleep. Both UIs stop looking for more clicks.
  4. 5 seconds later: V2/NarsilM goes to sleep.

The difference is a small one, but it’s something people seem to really notice. The response to it has been unexpectedly large. I find that delayed on makes the light feel unresponsive, and turning off in the middle of a double-click action feels clunky. But some people feel that immediate on is hard to use and delayed off feels slow.

If it feels too slow in general, it makes the button timing fairly easy to adjust in firmware. Change the values of HOLD_TIMEOUT and RELEASE_TIMEOUT as desired. The default is 24 frames, where each frame is 16ms. Some people like 20 or even 16 frames, while others think 24 is too fast. Some major brands use a value more like 36 frames. It really depends on personal preference.

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The little blip for the moonlight timing is on my ROT66, not the D4S though.

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Maybe I can get Hank to update the firmware he uses. I’ll send a new batch to him sometime soon.

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