Emisar D4S review

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atbglenn
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I ordered from Hank:

Emisar D4S 26650 High Power LED Flashlight
Color – Grey (smooth surface)
Aux LED – Red
Led & Tint – Neutral White – SST20 4000K 95CRI

Boycott Nike

learningtofly
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spideroz wrote:

Did you notice a big difference in heat generation between the XPL-HI 5000k and the SST-20 5000k?

There pretty close, but it feels the HI gets a little hotter.

Gr8Swammee
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So I have a question: I just received my d4s (black, D4S SST20/5,000K, red aux) and in comparison to my 2 d4 flashlights the LEDs do not line up real well under the TIRs…. it makes for an oblong beam on one end….. Is this normal for this config? Am I being too picky?

koti
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Gr8Swammee wrote:
So I have a question: I just received my d4s (black, D4S SST20/5,000K, red aux) and in comparison to my 2 d4 flashlights the LEDs do not line up real well under the TIRs…. it makes for an oblong beam on one end….. Is this normal for this config? Am I being too picky?

I ordered the exact same D4s setup you have, will let you know when I get it if its got the same issue.

Touchofred
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Gr8Swammee wrote:
So I have a question: I just received my d4s (black, D4S SST20/5,000K, red aux) and in comparison to my 2 d4 flashlights the LEDs do not line up real well under the TIRs…. it makes for an oblong beam on one end….. Is this normal for this config? Am I being too picky?

No, that doesn’t sound right. It shouldn’t be oblong.
Shoot Hank an email or PM.

My D4S sst20 have a completely normal beam.

learningtofly
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[/quote]

My D4S sst20 have a completely normal beam.[/quote]

Yes, mine has a well defined, round hotspot.

DB Custom
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I’ve actually received lights that Custom’s apparently disassembled and didn’t put back together right. The worst was a Mateminco X6s triple, they let the triple optic shift completely off the emitters and the bezel wasn’t on properly of course. Crazy stuff happens out there!

spideroz
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learningtofly wrote:
spideroz wrote:

Did you notice a big difference in heat generation between the XPL-HI 5000k and the SST-20 5000k?

There pretty close, but it feels the HI gets a little hotter.

 

I thought it would be the opposite, XPL-Hi 5k seem to be the more efficient option for the heat, but i'm glad to hear your feedback! wink

If the SST-20 5k is at least close in heat generation it's perfect for me.

polarweis
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I got my d4s sst20 5000k today and its great. The highest 3× 7135 mode is very nice.

One thing I noticed. from moon to highest 3× 7135 the light has a very nice yellow/very slight green tint. When ramped above the regulated current the tint really gets whiter. Can it be that the pwm got anything to do with it. Its a pretty big difference and its perfect for me. Like high cri on the low and low on the high mode.

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

ToyKeeper
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polarweis wrote:
One thing I noticed. from moon to highest 3× 7135 the light has a very nice yellow/very slight green tint. When ramped above the regulated current the tint really gets whiter. Can it be that the pwm got anything to do with it. Its a pretty big difference and its perfect for me. Like high cri on the low and low on the high mode.

LED tint changes depending on the power level.

This is generally most noticeable on a FET+N light with a relatively low “N” and a relatively high FET level. I try to reduce the effect by blending channels, but there’s only so much it can do. Without the blending though, if I set the FET channel to exactly the same lumen level as the +1 channel, and alternate between the two, it causes the color to change while the brightness stays the same:

The light on the left is just there for reference. On the right is a BLF-A6 which changes tint every half second by changing which power channel is active… yellow, blue, yellow, blue, yellow, blue.

Maukka has also measured this effect in great detail, in most of his reviews. Look for his charts showing where the tint is at different output levels.

polarweis
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Very intresting and exactly what i meant in my light. I actualy really like it! Does the sst20 have more output on the 3×7135 level than the xpl hi?

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

peg matite
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Anyone notice/try Shockli green 26650 5250 mah cells? Unprotected and seem proper dimensions and specs. “On paper”, seems no difference from black except nominally more capacity (black says 5500).
——
Well, I found HKJ review now so I see it seems inferior to black, but has anybody used in their D4S?

hodor
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Anyone measured the current draw of the new aux LED colours and if the efficiency is materially better or worse than the original cyan colour? I guess each colour would be in line with Lexel’s values stated for his custom D4 boards ?

d_t_a
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hodor wrote:
Anyone measured the current draw of the new aux LED colours and if the efficiency is materially better or worse than the original cyan colour? I guess each colour would be in line with Lexel's values stated for his "custom D4 boards":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/61921 ?

I have ordered a few D4S in different aux-LED colors (I ordered not for my own, but for a local flashlight community here..)

I did test the power draw for the different aux-LEDs

(cyan & green are earlier batch)
aux-LED in "Low" mode --- in "High" mode
cyan: 0.07-0.08mA -- 1.1-1.2mA
green: 0.07-0.08mA -- 1.1-1.2mA

(amber & red are a more recent batch)
aux-LED in "Low" mode --- in "High" mode
amber: 0.08-.09mA -- 1.5-1.6mA
red: 0.08-0.09mA -- 1.6-1.7mA

The current draw for the amber & red (recent batch D4S) are a bit higher than the cyan/green. Yet, the cyan and green aux-LEDs look MUCH brighter (when aux-LEDs are in "High" mode -- they are nearly as bright as the lowest Moon mode on the main light)  Whereas, the red and amber aux-LEDs look quite dim (even if they measured higher current draw).

Aux-LEDs are in High Mode (camera exposure time is 1/25th second)

Aux-LEDs in Low mode (camera exposure time is 1 second, pardon the blurry pic)

(the D4S with blue aux-LED is using a frosty optic)

 

 

Anthon
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is there a tutorial or something to follow to flash anduril in the D4S?

RT--
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Anthon wrote:
is there a tutorial or something to follow to flash anduril in the D4S?

In this very thread. Start reading from here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1371325#comment-1371325
Anthon
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RT— wrote:
Anthon wrote:
is there a tutorial or something to follow to flash anduril in the D4S?
In this very thread. Start reading from here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1371325#comment-1371325

thanks a lot, i’ve flashed many attiny13a but never tried with a tiny85, that post is a big help

hodor
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Very interesting, thanks d_t_a! Beer

SKV89
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I just measured the D4S with SST-20 3000k 95CRI at 2,328 lumens at 1s with my TA Lumen Tube. It is less rosy than the 3000k HD2 tinted emitters from Kaidomain and the SST20 3000k used in the NS22. It might be due to the optics. The XP-L HI v2 version measures about 3,577 lumens at turn on.

Also previously I read someone posted Hank said the 3000k is J4 flux bin but the spec sheet only shows it going up to J3 so not sure if Hank got a special batch or if the J4 was a mistake.

peg matite
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atbglenn wrote:
I ordered from Hank:

Emisar D4S 26650 High Power LED Flashlight
Color – Grey (smooth surface)
Aux LED – Red
Led & Tint – Neutral White – SST20 4000K 95CRI

I have this exact light (well, it’s twin). You will love it. I had green Nichia also, until my wife commandeered it.

Agro
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How much does D4S weigh?

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Together with the battery, it weighs 223 grams.

Click on:        ANSI WHITE

Click on:        MY COLLECTION

Click on:        Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w

Agro
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Thanks komeko. Which battery was that?

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Lii50 black

Click on:        ANSI WHITE

Click on:        MY COLLECTION

Click on:        Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w

hodor
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Until my 26650 cell arrives I’m using a Samsung 30Q held securely in place with foam. Weight is 176g. Feels good but very slightly unbalanced.

Agro
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So about 127-128g empty. Thanks!

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129g Thumbs Up

Edit: that’s with a standard tailcap, i.e. no magnet

Frumious
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I received a new Emisar D4S today. Thank you Hank.

This is my second D4S.
My first D4S has XP-L HI V2 3A (5000K) emitters. In the photo below, it is the gray light on the top.
The second one has SST-20 (5000K) emitters. In the photo, it is the green light in the middle.
I will identify the third light and its purpose here in a moment.

I offered to share comparisons of the beams of the two D4S in order to observe:
1) Beam cross sections: Are the beam cross sections different? I.e.: Is the SST-20 beam narrower, more focused than the XP-L HI – hence making it a somewhat throwier light?
2) Tints: Are the tints of the two lights similar; the emitters of both are described as being 5,000K.

Below are shots of the two D4S’ beams on my ceiling. The two lights were stood on their tails on a desk, pointed at the ceiling five feet above. The photos were taken with my iPhone 7 that lay on the desk next to the lights.

The third light above, the one at the bottom, is an Emisar D1S – a dedicated thrower. I have included it for reference: Its beam cross section is decidedly narrow and focused as it is designed to be a thrower.

About the three ceiling shots:

The first is of all three lights DIM – near the bottom of their ramping range.

The second is of the two D4S near the MIDDLE of their ramping range. This is an estimated middle point.

The third is of the two D4S at full TURBO, the photo taken within three seconds of simultaneously starting turbo on both lights.

The iPhone did make exposure adjustments that brightened the first photo and dimmed the turbo shot. These adjustments did not affect the representation of beam cross-sections, relative brightness of the two D4S to each other or their respective tints.

Both D4S lights had freshly and fully charged, identical, hi-drain, unprotected 26650 cells. Neither DS4 has been physically modified nor have their UI programs been adjusted.

What do you observe?

My observations:
1) Tint: There is obvious tint change as the two D4S ramp up. They are different at low level but become very similar as they brighten. The XP-L HI V2 3A is ever so slightly pinker. The SST-20 is ever so slightly yellower.
2) Beam cross-section: I don’t see much difference between the two D4S lights. Maybe the SST-20 has a slightly more defined hot spot at turbo level. Maybe.

I took both lights outside last night and very unscientifically compared their illumination down a long tree-lined road. I could not tell much difference in throw, flood or tint (when ramped up bright).

Beyond the first five minutes of turbo:

One difference between the two lights the photos don’t show: The XP-L HI V2 3A runs hotter than the SST-20.

As both automatically ramped down due to their high temperatures, the tint difference became more pronounced: The XP-L HI V2 3A relatively whiter/pinker than the relatively yellower SST-20.

For the next 60 minutes, the XP-L HI V2 3A stayed noticeably brighter even as it continued to run much hotter – too hot to hold without a glove. The SST-20 dimmed lower more and stayed a bit cooler – just cool enough to hold barehanded.

At 90 minutes the D4S with the hotter XP-L HI V2 3A emitters started to fade quickly – its battery largely spent. The cooler SST-20 D4S held on to useful light until about the two-hour mark when it too faded – though slowly.

10 hours after both lights had been switched to turbo, they were both putting out enough light to read by; a lumen or two.

Anthon
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Frumious wrote:
I received a new Emisar D4S today. Thank you Hank.

This is my second D4S.
My first D4S has XP-L HI V2 3A (5000K) emitters. In the photo below, it is the gray light on the top.
The second one has SST-20 (5000K) emitters. In the photo, it is the green light in the middle.
I will identify the third light and its purpose here in a moment.

I offered to share comparisons of the beams of the two D4S in order to observe:
1) Beam cross sections: Are the beam cross sections different? I.e.: Is the SST-20 beam narrower, more focused than the XP-L HI – hence making it a somewhat throwier light?
2) Tints: Are the tints of the two lights similar; the emitters of both are described as being 5,000K.

Below are shots of the two D4S’ beams on my ceiling. The two lights were stood on their tails on a desk, pointed at the ceiling five feet above. The photos were taken with my iPhone 7 that lay on the desk next to the lights.

The third light above, the one at the bottom, is an Emisar D1S – a dedicated thrower. I have included it for reference: Its beam cross section is decidedly narrow and focused as it is designed to be a thrower.

About the three ceiling shots:

The first is of all three lights DIM – near the bottom of their ramping range.

The second is of the two D4S near the MIDDLE of their ramping range. This is an estimated middle point.

The third is of the two D4S at full TURBO, the photo taken within three seconds of simultaneously starting turbo on both lights.

The iPhone did make exposure adjustments that brightened the first photo and dimmed the turbo shot. These adjustments did not affect the representation of beam cross-sections, relative brightness of the two D4S to each other or their respective tints.

Both D4S lights had freshly and fully charged, identical, hi-drain, unprotected 26650 cells. Neither DS4 has been physically modified nor have their UI programs been adjusted.

What do you observe?

My observations:
1) Tint: There is obvious tint change as the two D4S ramp up. They are different at low level but become very similar as they brighten. The XP-L HI V2 3A is ever so slightly pinker. The SST-20 is ever so slightly yellower.
2) Beam cross-section: I don’t see much difference between the two D4S lights. Maybe the SST-20 has a slightly more defined hot spot at turbo level. Maybe.

I took both lights outside last night and very unscientifically compared their illumination down a long tree-lined road. I could not tell much difference in throw, flood or tint (when ramped up bright).

Beyond the first five minutes of turbo:

One difference between the two lights the photos don’t show: The XP-L HI V2 3A runs hotter than the SST-20.

As both automatically ramped down due to their high temperatures, the tint difference became more pronounced: The XP-L HI V2 3A relatively whiter/pinker than the relatively yellower SST-20.

For the next 60 minutes, the XP-L HI V2 3A stayed noticeably brighter even as it continued to run much hotter – too hot to hold without a glove. The SST-20 dimmed lower more and stayed cooler – cool enough to hold barehanded.

At 90 minutes the D4S with the hotter XP-L HI V2 3A emitters started to fade quickly – its battery spent. The cooler SST-20 D4S held on to useful light until about the two-hour mark when it too faded.

Are the two lights set at the same temperature?

spideroz
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Oh man that is a very nice comparison!
Since i ordered mine with SST-20 5k i was looking for this kind of information, but this emitter option is still pretty recent so there is not much information/comparison between those 2  in the D4S.

After a lot of reading i was under the assumption that the XP-l HI will be more efficient, therefore will generate less heat but maybe i'm wrong.

Frumious wrote:
Neither DS4 has been physically modified nor have their UI programs been adjusted. 


I'm curious to know if the default thermal configuration settings are the same on both light, maybe they sent the sst-20 with a different default setting, that could explain the longer run time and the quicker step down, if anyone have some clues about that it would be nice to know.

 

Frumious wrote:
Both D4S lights had freshly and fully charged, identical, hi-drain, unprotected 26650 cells


Wich battery did you use inside both light?


last but not least,i would have a request if it's possible? laughing

 

Could you test with an ir thermometer ( if you own one ) the temperature of the head on both light and the duration before the turbo step down, with the same thermal configuration setting on both lights for an accurate reading?

If you can do that, you'll be the Man!

I know it's a lot to ask but we don't have this kind of information and i think it's could be really really useful for the community and for potential buyer, i think you'll be the first one to do it and i will deeply appreciate it.

Anyway, let me know if it's possible and thank you very much for your comparison! smile

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