Emisar D4S review

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brightnorm
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valera wrote:
RollerBoySE wrote:
Agro wrote:
LiitoKaala 5000 mAh is a good budget cell. There were fake LiitoKaalas around but I would fully expect Hank to have some good ones.

But its not the state of the art.
How would that translate to real world performance? I am unable to tell..

Nothing wrong with Liitokala, but iJoy is in a different league.

You can compare here:
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common26650comparator.php

Thanks.
And in what league can a Vapcell INR 26650 3.7V 5900mAh be?
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/10050722/9641710

I’ve been using the Shockli 5500mAh in my three D4S’s, and I’m pleased with the results. I also tried the Golisi “gold” but it seemed to run a shorter time than the Shockli. Are these other 26650’s noticeably better, do they burn longer and brighter enough to justify using them in place of my Schocklis?

brightnorm

brightnorm

valera
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brightnorm wrote:
valera wrote:
RollerBoySE wrote:
Agro wrote:
LiitoKaala 5000 mAh is a good budget cell. There were fake LiitoKaalas around but I would fully expect Hank to have some good ones.

But its not the state of the art.
How would that translate to real world performance? I am unable to tell..

Nothing wrong with Liitokala, but iJoy is in a different league.

You can compare here:
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common26650comparator.php

Thanks.
And in what league can a Vapcell INR 26650 3.7V 5900mAh be?
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/10050722/9641710

Are these other 26650’s noticeably better, do they burn longer and brighter enough to justify using them in place of my Schocklis?

brightnorm

Thank you very much for your reply.
As I understand it, then the Vapcell INR 26650 3.7V 5900mAh burn longer and brighter?

RichH
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Hi all, firstly I wish you all all Happy New Year. Party

I was just messing around with my D4S and got it stuck in momentary on/tactical mode. Lots of button presses and I couldn’t get it back to ramping mode. I took out the battery wondering if that would make any difference and when I put it back in the light didn’t work at all. Tried a fresh cell and making sure the cap is tight and o ring in place, but still bricked.

Any ideas?

SammysHP
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Never heard of this. Does it blink when you screw it together?

RollerBoySE
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Have you tried a factory reset?

“ To do a factory reset: Loosen the tailcap, hold the button, tighten the tailcap, then keep holding the button for 3 seconds. The light should flash an increasingly bright warning, during which time the user can let go to abort without any changes. Then after 3 seconds, it gives a bright flash and fades back to nothing.”

SammysHP
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Unless he updated his firmware, the D4S does not have the factory reset feature.

RichH
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No, no blink at all. As mentioned there is no factory reset as I haven’t updated the firmware.

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The blinking happens very early in the code. If it does not flash when screwing everything together, there is a high chance that the hardware has an issue (for example contact issues at the tailcap/threads/springs, loose cable, damaged component on the PCB (the microcontroller in this case)). Where did you order it? You can ask for warranty / replacement head. But first check if all contacts are clean and make a proper connection. Which battery do you use? I’m not sure if protected/button top batteries might cause issues because it might be too long. But it worked before, so I think the battery is fine.

brightnorm
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SammysHP wrote:
Unless he updated his firmware, the D4S does not have the factory reset feature.

Do all recently issued D4S’s come with that update?

brightnorm

whatsthepoint
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Under the wrapper may just be the same as the red Vapcell INR26650 5500mAh and have the same performance as the red and the ShockLi IMR26650 5500mAh and the KeepPower IMR26650 6000mAh

The gold Golisi 26650 4300mAh may increase short term performance in CDR but lacks the higher capacity of the ShockLi black 5500mAh rating that may test as high as 6000mAh for some fresh cells.

never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups

RichH
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SammysHP wrote:
The blinking happens very early in the code. If it does not flash when screwing everything together, there is a high chance that the hardware has an issue (for example contact issues at the tailcap/threads/springs, loose cable, damaged component on the PCB (the microcontroller in this case)). Where did you order it? You can ask for warranty / replacement head. But first check if all contacts are clean and make a proper connection. Which battery do you use? I’m not sure if protected/button top batteries might cause issues because it might be too long. But it worked before, so I think the battery is fine.

Thanks for your replies. I’m good with checking checking contacts etc due to having had a few lights that need ultra clean threads and contacts at both ends. That’s as deep as I’ll go with it, I know nothing of the PCB or chipset. It’s a weird one, I was button pressing to show the different aux light levels and accidentally put it in momentary mode. Due to the Christmas thing I was a bit busy and didn’t have easy access to the online manual so I squished the button repeatedly. Then…nothing.

I wonder if I’ve put it in some sort of lockout, but tried the 6 presses and also know if the light is live it blinks a single flash when the tailcap screws tight onto the battery. Battery/cell is from a company here in the UK called Fogstar. They have a good rep, batch testing, educating, and helping keep idiots safe from high draw vape devices.

Bought the light direct from Hank at INTL, I’ll have to give him a shout. By the way, the blue D4SV2 with a steel bezel and the XPL-HI 5000k has a nice neutral beam and gives some good throw too. Mainly by projecting massive lumens, but it’s an impressive torch with just the right CRI for my use.

A small part of me wants the SST-20 5000k to compare, but that’s just me down the rabbit hole of flashaholism again. : Wink Big Smile

SammysHP
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Can you give us some more details about the battery? Is it protected?

brightnorm
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RichH][quote=SammysHP wrote:
… By the way, the blue D4SV2 with a steel bezel and the XPL-HI 5000k has a nice neutral beam and gives some good throw too. Mainly by projecting massive lumens, but it’s an impressive torch with just the right CRI for my use. Big Smile

Speaking of throw, My D4svn VN2 Has remarkable throw. Top floor 19 floor building from across the street brightly illuminated.

brightnorm

RichH
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SammysHP wrote:
Can you give us some more details about the battery? Is it protected?

I have two of these, pretty sure they’re unprotected.

https://www.fogstar.co.uk/products/fogstar-26650-br-4200mah-25a

They’ve always been fine in the D4S and both power the D4SV2 I bought myself for Christmas.

valera
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valera][quote=RollerBoySE][quote=Agro wrote:

Thanks.

Dear colleagues! Are there any diffusers for Emisar D4S or maybe some are suitable from others ?

Agro
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Small Naturehike diffuser is a clear favourite of mine:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32974909430.html

Chatika vas Paus
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valera wrote:
Dear colleagues! Are there any diffusers for Emisar D4S or maybe some are suitable from others ?

Here is a short thread about it.

nick779
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Is level 65 similar to the current draw of the small D4, or the full current of all 3× 7135s?

Im attempting to estimate runtime and wasnt sure.

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nick779 wrote:
Is level 65 similar to the current draw of the small D4, or the full current of all 3× 7135s?

Im attempting to estimate runtime and wasnt sure.

Looking at the ramp table for the D4S, level 65 is a value of 125/255 on the 3×7135 channel. That theoretically works out to about 515 mA if the chip has a linear response curve, but I don’t think it does. It’s probably higher than 350 mA, but the only way to know for sure is to measure it.

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Anyone by chance have a set of the small machine screws that align the AUX board and mcpcb and attach them to the mcpcb shelf in the host? I had a light that I bricked apart and apparently I misplaced these.

Edit: Richard at Mtn was kind enough to measure a few for me. Theyre Phillips Pan Head 2mm x 0.4mm x ~6mm machine screws.

I was able to order a few assorted lengths from an online hardware store.

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What’s the reset?
Just got a D4Sv2 and it seems to go straight to turbo with 1 press from off, or hold from off to stobe mode, what’s doing on?

hodor
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Disconnect power, hold switch, reconnect power, wait 3 seconds or until light stops flashing, release switch.

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hodor wrote:
Disconnect power, hold switch, reconnect power, wait 3 seconds or until light stops flashing, release switch.

Much thanks!

brightnorm
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REVIVING this thread—-D4Sv2 FLASHER for walking at night

My goal was about 1.5 – 2 flashes per second at roughly 400 lumens. The slowest I could get the strobe was around 4 flashes per second at full power. Is there any way to slow it down and reduce lumens?

Brightnorm

brightnorm

Rayoui
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You could use beacon mode and set it to one flash per second. It has adjustable brightness too.

brightnorm
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IGNORE – Found it. Thanks (Too bad the speed isn’t adjustable)

Are the instructions handy or would I have to scroll through many posts?

brightnorm

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brightnorm wrote:
FLASHER for walking at night

My goal was about 1.5 – 2 flashes per second at roughly 400 lumens. The slowest I could get the strobe was around 4 flashes per second at full power. Is there any way to slow it down and reduce lumens?

Sorry, it doesn’t have anything quite like that. However, there are four things which might get close…

  • Tactical strobe at slowest speed: ~3 Hz and very bright
  • Party strobe at slowest speed: ~4 Hz and less bright
  • Beacon mode: ~1 Hz or slower, at whatever brightness you want
  • Bike flasher: ~1 Hz, at whatever brightness you want

The bike flasher mode is intended for high visibility at night, like walking or biking. Have you tried it?

brightnorm
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Hi Toykeeper,

Since Bike flasher mode can’t go faster than 1Hz, Beacon mode seems to be the best. When you said 1Hz or faster, can you tell me how to speed it up? 2Hz-2.5Hz would be ideal.

Are you working on any brilliant projects these days?

Stay safe Smile

brightnorm

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brightnorm wrote:
Beacon mode seems to be the best. When you said 1Hz or faster, can you tell me how to speed it up?

Sorry, that was supposed to say slower, not faster. 1 Hz is as fast as beacon can go.

brightnorm
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No problem. Smile

brightnorm

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