I measure 63.1 to 64.1 mm with uncompressed springs.

The batteries I’m using are 65.2 mm long.

I can’t get mine to interrupt power by bumping the tail of the light.

I intend to try the buffer cap mod but I can’t open the driver retaining ring. My Camera Lens Opening Tool doesn’t grip in the strange conical holes. Is the retaining ring glued? I thought only the driver itself has glue. Are this lefthand threads?

Any help appreciated!

Yes Vinh was referring to the crushed emitters and/or misaligned emitters he got when talking about poorly assembled. He loves the design and quality of components on the light otherwise.

Flashy Mike wrote:

I intend to try the buffer cap mod but I can’t open the driver retaining ring. My Camera Lens Opening Tool doesn’t grip in the strange conical holes. Is the retaining ring glued? I thought only the driver itself has glue. Are this lefthand threads?

The driver retaining ring is threaded normally, not reverse. However, it is a bit stiff. I don’t know if it’s normally glued, but I asked specifically for a light with no glue anywhere, because the whole point of me having one was to open it up for development purposes. Glue would defeat the point.

ToyKeeper wrote:

The driver retaining ring is threaded normally, not reverse. However, it is a bit stiff. I don’t know if it’s normally glued, but I asked specifically for a light with no glue anywhere, because the whole point of me having one was to open it up for development purposes. Glue would defeat the point.

Btw., there have been some strange inconsistencies in lumen measurements done by members. Might these have happened due to poor battery contact?

Frumious wrote:

I have had my ROT-66 for about a week and have been testing it in the growing dark hours here in Alaska where I live. Here are my thoughts about this light:

Unboxing: A nice gift-worthy box with a magnetic close.

Size and weight: Compact: ¾ scale soda can format. About half the weight of my BLF Q8

Aesthetics: Champagne color. It is elegant. It looks like jewelry. A welcome alternative to basic black.

Emitter/Color: Mine has 9 XPL HI V3 3A. Natural White: I like it. Excellent color rendition. It’s like the noon sun is out.

Brightness: This is a ridiculously bright floodlight. It is the brightest light in my collection that includes Emisar D1, D1S and D4 lights as well as the BLF Q8. How many lumens on Turbo? I don’t know. But it is considerably brighter than my BLF Q8. (Both are powered by new button top Orbtronic ORB-3120 batteries – rewrapped Sony VCT6 – which each kick out 30+ amps for a few minutes.)

Throw distance? Definitely not a throw light. Yet with this much brightness, useable light reaches out a couple hundred yards – only slightly less distance than the Q8.

User Interface: I only use ramping or two-click Turbo. It is intuitive. When ramping up there is a quick blink when it reaches maximum brightness.

Carrying ease: If I am wearing baggy jeans or an overcoat, it is pocketable where the Q8 is not. It also comes with a substantial lanyard which screws into a tripod hole. The lanyard color is also champagne.

Heat management: It gets hot quickly on Turbo. Any longer than 60 seconds requires gloves. During winter in Alaska this heat can be useful. At lower brightness, heat is not an issue.

Fun feature: A glow-in-the dark ring surrounding the LEDs is activated by the brightness of the light. It glows a very attractive blue.

Summary: This is an elegant, small soda can light. This is a ridiculously bright floodlight. This is a useful and well-built light. It will live in my Bentley’s glove box.

i just saw the movie (again), 30 days of night…makes me want to visit. with a months worth of batteries, of course

SST20 95 cri version ordered. Will have to have a nice little bout between the Nichia SW45k R9080 version, Samsung LH351D+804 filter from Vinh, and this SST-20 version.

Flashy Mike wrote:

Btw., there have been some strange inconsistencies in lumen measurements done by members. Might these have happened due to poor battery contact?

I’m only aware of one person whose numbers are off, and that appears to be caused by unusual measuring equipment.

Among people with calibrated spheres / tubes, the values I’ve seen reported have been pretty consistent and seem to vary mostly with temperature. Warm batteries seem to produce more lumens than cold batteries.

twisted raven wrote:

SST20 95 cri version ordered. Will have to have a nice little bout between the Nichia SW45k R9080 version, Samsung LH351D+804 filter from Vinh, and this SST-20 version.

By the way, I am a fan of CW.. i even bought blf gt xhp35 in CW..

Just ordered a SST20 4000k 95CRI version myself. This thing looks fantastic, 5000+ lumens of high CRI light in a relatively small form factor, I seriously can’t wait. If this lives up to my hopes it’s going to get a lot of use.

pooptoast wrote:

Just ordered a SST20 4000k 95CRI version myself. This thing looks fantastic, 5000+ lumens of high CRI light in a relatively small form factor, I seriously can’t wait. If this lives up to my hopes it’s going to get a lot of use.

Same here.

I’m planning to calibrate a 14×7135 build on the SST20 4000K 95CRI model soon, and I’m looking forward to seeing how it looks. The only other 4000K light I have is a BLF A01, but it’s 1xAAA so it doesn’t have a lot of lumens or runtime.

Since the 219B model has 7×7135 and all other models have 14×7135, they need different firmware. I already made a 7x version of Anduril, but still need to make a 14x version. The main differences are the ramp shape and default config values, but it may need other tweaks as well.

I can’t wait to see the results of that build. Please update the thread or make a new one.

Black Nichia version showed up today. I used HG2 batts. Great rosy color. Blue switch and firefly is quite impressive. Decent spill and throw. 200 yards and the deer stood out! Nice lanyard. This is one comfortable light. Narsil 1.2 works perfect! Impressive light and very satisfied. Thirty minutes use. Warm but not too warm. I like as is. No changes for me.

95 cri @ 5000+ 4000k lumens, at that price, shit.. how could I possibly resist?

Besides, I have plenty of xpl lights already, I don’t have any sst20 lights. Might as well give them a shot.

klrman wrote:

I’m really tempted but I’ve been disappointed before at warm tints.   Maybe the 95+ cri will make all the difference.

How pleasant the beam looks really dependent on the tint, where it sits with respect to the BBL, instead of the CRI. I tried many 90CRI 219C 4000k and the LH351D 4000k 90CRI and could never get myself to like them no matter how much I try due to the yellow/green tint. However, I recently tried the 4000k E21A 9080 and 219B 4000k 9080 from Clemence, and they are just beautiful. I see absolutely no hint of yellow or green. Just pure neutral white. I don’t even notice any rosiness unless I compare it side by side with a 219c 4000k.

Hopefully this SST 95CRI they are using is really below the BBL otherwise at 4000k, it will be yellowish.

The nice thing about the ROT66 is that its bezel can be unscrewed, and you can just sandwich a Lee minus green Zircon filter between the lens and optics if the beam is slightly too green.

I really want a multiple optics light sporting E21A 9080 emitters.

I have values for calculated lumens for the ROT66 nichia. Can someone check it with real measurements?

calculated modes for Maukkas Nichia + Lexcel code
(doesn't value nonlinearity from the LED curve, doesn't contain Moonlight)
(1+7+FET)

ROT66 Nichia in Lumen
Modeset 1 3860
Modeset 2 102, 3860
Modeset 3 102, 705, 3860
Modeset 4 10, 102, 807, 3860
Modeset 5 10, 40, 102, 807, 3860
Modeset 6 6, 32, 102, 378, 807, 3860
Modeset 7 3, 80, 212, 433, 807, 2218, 3860
Modeset 8 807, 3860 

The Nichia 219B has a pretty nonlinear output curve. It has a slow startup time at least, and seems like it may have a slow fall time too. To estimate the output, you may need to go from ~10/255 to ~245/255, instead of 1 to 255.

JasonWW wrote:

Lexel wrote:

351D does not fit under the optics

Skylumen was somehow able to get them to fit. I don’t know how he did it.

There’s a guy adamant on Twitter that Vinh has been in two movies

Has anyone got their replacement head for the ill-fated XP-L yet?

ToyKeeper wrote:

pooptoast wrote:

Just ordered a SST20 4000k 95CRI version myself. This thing looks fantastic, 5000+ lumens of high CRI light in a relatively small form factor, I seriously can’t wait. If this lives up to my hopes it’s going to get a lot of use.

Same here.

I’m planning to calibrate a 14×7135 build on the SST20 4000K 95CRI model soon, and I’m looking forward to seeing how it looks. The only other 4000K light I have is a BLF A01, but it’s 1xAAA so it doesn’t have a lot of lumens or runtime.

Since the 219B model has 7×7135 and all other models have 14×7135, they need different firmware. I already made a 7x version of Anduril, but still need to make a 14x version. The main differences are the ramp shape and default config values, but it may need other tweaks as well.

I received my SST-20-W40H ROT66 a few days ago. Excellent and pleasant tint, but I think it is of 7×7135 because its output is pretty close to the 219B version when both driven by 100% 1×7135 + 100% Nx7135 (level 3 of mode-set 4).

toobadorz wrote:

ToyKeeper wrote:

Same here.

I’m planning to calibrate a 14×7135 build on the SST20 4000K 95CRI model soon, and I’m looking forward to seeing how it looks. The only other 4000K light I have is a BLF A01, but it’s 1xAAA so it doesn’t have a lot of lumens or runtime.

Since the 219B model has 7×7135 and all other models have 14×7135, they need different firmware. I already made a 7x version of Anduril, but still need to make a 14x version. The main differences are the ramp shape and default config values, but it may need other tweaks as well.

I received my SST-20-W40H ROT66 a few days ago. Excellent and pleasant tint, but I think it is of 7×7135 because its output is pretty close to the 219B version when both driven by 100% 1×7135 + 100% Nx7135 (level 3 of mode-set 4).

Alright, just checked with Fireflies. SST-20-W40H is of 7×7135, while the cool white SST-20 is of 14×7135.

toobadorz wrote:

Alright, just checked with Fireflies. SST-20-W40H is of 7×7135, while the cool white SST-20 is of 14×7135.

That’s different than what Jacky told me, so it’ll be interesting to see what shows up.

I can’t open my 6500K ROT66

steel_1024 wrote:

I can’t open my 6500K ROT66

Maybe you can switch to the mode-set #4, level 3 (moonlight is level 0) and measure its lumen number. Should be > 1400 lm if 14×7135 are used.

The main problem of the bump is that pretty much all carriers have onl spring loaded one side

Now if we want to fit different cell lenghts like from unprotected to protected the springs need to be relatively long
Also Copper alloy springs reduce their leght by time a bit as they are not as flexible as steel, but they are needed for the current

If flat top cells make a bump problem an easy fic is solder blobbed batteries, but this is not a bike light under normal use a bump is very unlikely

It is possible to glue some foam on the tail of the carrier if its not getting pressed enough to the front,
Astrolux MF02 has that problem one one batch the outer contact ring does not maker proper contact on some lights due to production tolerances

The carrier uses 3 rods and yes one of them carriers battery + 2 carry ground, this was decided early in the design process to get on both sides battery + availiable

steel_1024 wrote:

I can’t open my 6500K ROT66

Is it sst20 or xpl hi 6500??

Lexel wrote:

Now if we want to fit different cell lenghts like from unprotected to protected the springs need to be relatively long
Also Copper alloy springs reduce their leght by time a bit as they are not as flexible as steel, but they are needed for the current

If flat top cells make a bump problem an easy fic is solder blobbed batteries, but this is not a bike light under normal use a bump is very unlikely

If this springs reduce their length over time I foresee more bump problems in future. They are simply too short – or the wrong selection at all.

It seems the only decent solution to the bump problem is adding a capacitor to keep the driver powered up when the batteries loose contact in a bump. This way the light still turns off in a bump, but it turns back on at the same level instead of resetting to “off”.

toobadorz wrote:

ToyKeeper wrote:

pooptoast wrote:

Just ordered a SST20 4000k 95CRI version myself. This thing looks fantastic, 5000+ lumens of high CRI light in a relatively small form factor, I seriously can’t wait. If this lives up to my hopes it’s going to get a lot of use.

Same here.

I’m planning to calibrate a 14×7135 build on the SST20 4000K 95CRI model soon, and I’m looking forward to seeing how it looks. The only other 4000K light I have is a BLF A01, but it’s 1xAAA so it doesn’t have a lot of lumens or runtime.

Since the 219B model has 7×7135 and all other models have 14×7135, they need different firmware. I already made a 7x version of Anduril, but still need to make a 14x version. The main differences are the ramp shape and default config values, but it may need other tweaks as well.

I received my SST-20-W40H ROT66 a few days ago. Excellent and pleasant tint, but I think it is of 7×7135 because its output is pretty close to the 219B version when both driven by 100% 1×7135 + 100% Nx7135 (level 3 of mode-set 4).

Did you take lumen measurements compared with the 219B? How does the tint compare with 219B or any 5A/5D Cree tint flashlights? Maukka tested the SST-20-W 4000k 95CRI from Kaidomain to have some greenish tint.