I intend to try the buffer cap mod but I can’t open the driver retaining ring. My Camera Lens Opening Tool doesn’t grip in the strange conical holes. Is the retaining ring glued? I thought only the driver itself has glue. Are this lefthand threads?
Yes Vinh was referring to the crushed emitters and/or misaligned emitters he got when talking about poorly assembled. He loves the design and quality of components on the light otherwise.
I intend to try the buffer cap mod but I can’t open the driver retaining ring. My Camera Lens Opening Tool doesn’t grip in the strange conical holes. Is the retaining ring glued? I thought only the driver itself has glue. Are this lefthand threads?
The driver retaining ring is threaded normally, not reverse. However, it is a bit stiff. I don’t know if it’s normally glued, but I asked specifically for a light with no glue anywhere, because the whole point of me having one was to open it up for development purposes. Glue would defeat the point.
The driver retaining ring is threaded normally, not reverse. However, it is a bit stiff. I don’t know if it’s normally glued, but I asked specifically for a light with no glue anywhere, because the whole point of me having one was to open it up for development purposes. Glue would defeat the point.
Thanks!
I’m not sure if I should heat the head with heat gun. There is plastic inside. Don’t want to destroy anything. Since I’m not in a hurry I might wait for someone else taking the risk .
But I might drill two smaller, not conical holes into the retaining ring for more grip with my tool.
I have had my ROT-66 for about a week and have been testing it in the growing dark hours here in Alaska where I live. Here are my thoughts about this light:
Unboxing: A nice gift-worthy box with a magnetic close.
Size and weight: Compact: ¾ scale soda can format. About half the weight of my BLF Q8
Aesthetics: Champagne color. It is elegant. It looks like jewelry. A welcome alternative to basic black.
Emitter/Color: Mine has 9 XPL HI V3 3A. Natural White: I like it. Excellent color rendition. It’s like the noon sun is out.
Brightness: This is a ridiculously bright floodlight. It is the brightest light in my collection that includes Emisar D1, D1S and D4 lights as well as the BLF Q8. How many lumens on Turbo? I don’t know. But it is considerably brighter than my BLF Q8. (Both are powered by new button top Orbtronic ORB-3120 batteries – rewrapped Sony VCT6 – which each kick out 30+ amps for a few minutes.)
Throw distance? Definitely not a throw light. Yet with this much brightness, useable light reaches out a couple hundred yards – only slightly less distance than the Q8.
User Interface: I only use ramping or two-click Turbo. It is intuitive. When ramping up there is a quick blink when it reaches maximum brightness.
Carrying ease: If I am wearing baggy jeans or an overcoat, it is pocketable where the Q8 is not. It also comes with a substantial lanyard which screws into a tripod hole. The lanyard color is also champagne.
Heat management: It gets hot quickly on Turbo. Any longer than 60 seconds requires gloves. During winter in Alaska this heat can be useful. At lower brightness, heat is not an issue.
Fun feature: A glow-in-the dark ring surrounding the LEDs is activated by the brightness of the light. It glows a very attractive blue.
Summary: This is an elegant, small soda can light. This is a ridiculously bright floodlight. This is a useful and well-built light. It will live in my Bentley’s glove box.
i just saw the movie (again), 30 days of night…makes me want to visit. with a months worth of batteries, of course
SST20 95 cri version ordered. Will have to have a nice little bout between the Nichia SW45k R9080 version, Samsung LH351D+804 filter from Vinh, and this SST-20 version.
Btw., there have been some strange inconsistencies in lumen measurements done by members. Might these have happened due to poor battery contact?
I’m only aware of one person whose numbers are off, and that appears to be caused by unusual measuring equipment.
Among people with calibrated spheres / tubes, the values I’ve seen reported have been pretty consistent and seem to vary mostly with temperature. Warm batteries seem to produce more lumens than cold batteries.
SST20 95 cri version ordered. Will have to have a nice little bout between the Nichia SW45k R9080 version, Samsung LH351D+804 filter from Vinh, and this SST-20 version.
Nice. What do you guys think about 9x SST20 6500K CW 8500lumens CRI66?
By the way, I am a fan of CW.. i even bought blf gt xhp35 in CW..
Just ordered a SST20 4000k 95CRI version myself. This thing looks fantastic, 5000+ lumens of high CRI light in a relatively small form factor, I seriously can’t wait. If this lives up to my hopes it’s going to get a lot of use.
Just ordered a SST20 4000k 95CRI version myself. This thing looks fantastic, 5000+ lumens of high CRI light in a relatively small form factor, I seriously can’t wait. If this lives up to my hopes it’s going to get a lot of use.
Same here.
I’m planning to calibrate a 14×7135 build on the SST20 4000K 95CRI model soon, and I’m looking forward to seeing how it looks. The only other 4000K light I have is a BLF A01, but it’s 1xAAA so it doesn’t have a lot of lumens or runtime.
Since the 219B model has 7×7135 and all other models have 14×7135, they need different firmware. I already made a 7x version of Anduril, but still need to make a 14x version. The main differences are the ramp shape and default config values, but it may need other tweaks as well.
Black Nichia version showed up today. I used HG2 batts. Great rosy color. Blue switch and firefly is quite impressive. Decent spill and throw. 200 yards and the deer stood out! Nice lanyard. This is one comfortable light. Narsil 1.2 works perfect! Impressive light and very satisfied. Thirty minutes use. Warm but not too warm. I like as is. No changes for me.
I’m really tempted but I’ve been disappointed before at warm tints. Maybe the 95+ cri will make all the difference.
How pleasant the beam looks really dependent on the tint, where it sits with respect to the BBL, instead of the CRI. I tried many 90CRI 219C 4000k and the LH351D 4000k 90CRI and could never get myself to like them no matter how much I try due to the yellow/green tint. However, I recently tried the 4000k E21A 9080 and 219B 4000k 9080 from Clemence, and they are just beautiful. I see absolutely no hint of yellow or green. Just pure neutral white. I don’t even notice any rosiness unless I compare it side by side with a 219c 4000k.
Hopefully this SST 95CRI they are using is really below the BBL otherwise at 4000k, it will be yellowish.
The nice thing about the ROT66 is that its bezel can be unscrewed, and you can just sandwich a Lee minus green Zircon filter between the lens and optics if the beam is slightly too green.
I really want a multiple optics light sporting E21A 9080 emitters.
The Nichia 219B has a pretty nonlinear output curve. It has a slow startup time at least, and seems like it may have a slow fall time too. To estimate the output, you may need to go from ~10/255 to ~245/255, instead of 1 to 255.
Just ordered a SST20 4000k 95CRI version myself. This thing looks fantastic, 5000+ lumens of high CRI light in a relatively small form factor, I seriously can’t wait. If this lives up to my hopes it’s going to get a lot of use.
Same here.
I’m planning to calibrate a 14×7135 build on the SST20 4000K 95CRI model soon, and I’m looking forward to seeing how it looks. The only other 4000K light I have is a BLF A01, but it’s 1xAAA so it doesn’t have a lot of lumens or runtime.
Since the 219B model has 7×7135 and all other models have 14×7135, they need different firmware. I already made a 7x version of Anduril, but still need to make a 14x version. The main differences are the ramp shape and default config values, but it may need other tweaks as well.
I received my SST-20-W40H ROT66 a few days ago. Excellent and pleasant tint, but I think it is of 7×7135 because its output is pretty close to the 219B version when both driven by 100% 1×7135 + 100% Nx7135 (level 3 of mode-set 4).
I’m planning to calibrate a 14×7135 build on the SST20 4000K 95CRI model soon, and I’m looking forward to seeing how it looks. The only other 4000K light I have is a BLF A01, but it’s 1xAAA so it doesn’t have a lot of lumens or runtime.
Since the 219B model has 7×7135 and all other models have 14×7135, they need different firmware. I already made a 7x version of Anduril, but still need to make a 14x version. The main differences are the ramp shape and default config values, but it may need other tweaks as well.
I received my SST-20-W40H ROT66 a few days ago. Excellent and pleasant tint, but I think it is of 7×7135 because its output is pretty close to the 219B version when both driven by 100% 1×7135 + 100% Nx7135 (level 3 of mode-set 4).
Alright, just checked with Fireflies. SST-20-W40H is of 7×7135, while the cool white SST-20 is of 14×7135.
The main problem of the bump is that pretty much all carriers have onl spring loaded one side
Now if we want to fit different cell lenghts like from unprotected to protected the springs need to be relatively long
Also Copper alloy springs reduce their leght by time a bit as they are not as flexible as steel, but they are needed for the current
If flat top cells make a bump problem an easy fic is solder blobbed batteries, but this is not a bike light under normal use a bump is very unlikely
It is possible to glue some foam on the tail of the carrier if its not getting pressed enough to the front,
Astrolux MF02 has that problem one one batch the outer contact ring does not maker proper contact on some lights due to production tolerances
The carrier uses 3 rods and yes one of them carriers battery + 2 carry ground, this was decided early in the design process to get on both sides battery + availiable
Now if we want to fit different cell lenghts like from unprotected to protected the springs need to be relatively long
Also Copper alloy springs reduce their leght by time a bit as they are not as flexible as steel, but they are needed for the current
If flat top cells make a bump problem an easy fic is solder blobbed batteries, but this is not a bike light under normal use a bump is very unlikely
With barely 67 mm space between positive contact plate and fully compressed spring I don’t know any protected 18650 which fits. Is there any at all?
I don’t think a solder blob will help in the long term, it will rather wear out the spring and the problem will recur somewhat later.
If this springs reduce their length over time I foresee more bump problems in future. They are simply too short – or the wrong selection at all.
It seems the only decent solution to the bump problem is adding a capacitor to keep the driver powered up when the batteries loose contact in a bump. This way the light still turns off in a bump, but it turns back on at the same level instead of resetting to “off”.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Just ordered a SST20 4000k 95CRI version myself. This thing looks fantastic, 5000+ lumens of high CRI light in a relatively small form factor, I seriously can’t wait. If this lives up to my hopes it’s going to get a lot of use.
Same here.
I’m planning to calibrate a 14×7135 build on the SST20 4000K 95CRI model soon, and I’m looking forward to seeing how it looks. The only other 4000K light I have is a BLF A01, but it’s 1xAAA so it doesn’t have a lot of lumens or runtime.
Since the 219B model has 7×7135 and all other models have 14×7135, they need different firmware. I already made a 7x version of Anduril, but still need to make a 14x version. The main differences are the ramp shape and default config values, but it may need other tweaks as well.
I received my SST-20-W40H ROT66 a few days ago. Excellent and pleasant tint, but I think it is of 7×7135 because its output is pretty close to the 219B version when both driven by 100% 1×7135 + 100% Nx7135 (level 3 of mode-set 4).
Did you take lumen measurements compared with the 219B? How does the tint compare with 219B or any 5A/5D Cree tint flashlights? Maukka tested the SST-20-W 4000k 95CRI from Kaidomain to have some greenish tint.
I measure 63.1 to 64.1 mm with uncompressed springs.
The batteries I’m using are 65.2 mm long.
I can’t get mine to interrupt power by bumping the tail of the light.
I intend to try the buffer cap mod but I can’t open the driver retaining ring. My Camera Lens Opening Tool doesn’t grip in the strange conical holes. Is the retaining ring glued? I thought only the driver itself has glue. Are this lefthand threads?
Any help appreciated!
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
Yes Vinh was referring to the crushed emitters and/or misaligned emitters he got when talking about poorly assembled. He loves the design and quality of components on the light otherwise.
The driver retaining ring is threaded normally, not reverse. However, it is a bit stiff. I don’t know if it’s normally glued, but I asked specifically for a light with no glue anywhere, because the whole point of me having one was to open it up for development purposes. Glue would defeat the point.
I’m not sure if I should heat the head with heat gun. There is plastic inside. Don’t want to destroy anything. Since I’m not in a hurry I might wait for someone else taking the risk
But I might drill two smaller, not conical holes into the retaining ring for more grip with my tool.
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
Btw., there have been some strange inconsistencies in lumen measurements done by members. Might these have happened due to poor battery contact?
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
i just saw the movie (again), 30 days of night…makes me want to visit. with a months worth of batteries, of course
never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby
SST20 95 cri version ordered. Will have to have a nice little bout between the Nichia SW45k R9080 version, Samsung LH351D+804 filter from Vinh, and this SST-20 version.
I’m only aware of one person whose numbers are off, and that appears to be caused by unusual measuring equipment.
Among people with calibrated spheres / tubes, the values I’ve seen reported have been pretty consistent and seem to vary mostly with temperature. Warm batteries seem to produce more lumens than cold batteries.
By the way, I am a fan of CW.. i even bought blf gt xhp35 in CW..
Just ordered a SST20 4000k 95CRI version myself. This thing looks fantastic, 5000+ lumens of high CRI light in a relatively small form factor, I seriously can’t wait. If this lives up to my hopes it’s going to get a lot of use.
Same here.
I’m planning to calibrate a 14×7135 build on the SST20 4000K 95CRI model soon, and I’m looking forward to seeing how it looks. The only other 4000K light I have is a BLF A01, but it’s 1xAAA so it doesn’t have a lot of lumens or runtime.
Since the 219B model has 7×7135 and all other models have 14×7135, they need different firmware. I already made a 7x version of Anduril, but still need to make a 14x version. The main differences are the ramp shape and default config values, but it may need other tweaks as well.
I can’t wait to see the results of that build. Please update the thread or make a new one.
Black Nichia version showed up today. I used HG2 batts. Great rosy color. Blue switch and firefly is quite impressive. Decent spill and throw. 200 yards and the deer stood out! Nice lanyard. This is one comfortable light. Narsil 1.2 works perfect! Impressive light and very satisfied. Thirty minutes use. Warm but not too warm. I like as is. No changes for me.
95 cri @ 5000+ 4000k lumens, at that price, shit.. how could I possibly resist?
Besides, I have plenty of xpl lights already, I don’t have any sst20 lights. Might as well give them a shot.
How pleasant the beam looks really dependent on the tint, where it sits with respect to the BBL, instead of the CRI. I tried many 90CRI 219C 4000k and the LH351D 4000k 90CRI and could never get myself to like them no matter how much I try due to the yellow/green tint. However, I recently tried the 4000k E21A 9080 and 219B 4000k 9080 from Clemence, and they are just beautiful. I see absolutely no hint of yellow or green. Just pure neutral white. I don’t even notice any rosiness unless I compare it side by side with a 219c 4000k.
Hopefully this SST 95CRI they are using is really below the BBL otherwise at 4000k, it will be yellowish.
The nice thing about the ROT66 is that its bezel can be unscrewed, and you can just sandwich a Lee minus green Zircon filter between the lens and optics if the beam is slightly too green.
I really want a multiple optics light sporting E21A 9080 emitters.
I have values for calculated lumens for the ROT66 nichia. Can someone check it with real measurements?
calculated modes for Maukkas Nichia + Lexcel code
(doesn't value nonlinearity from the LED curve, doesn't contain Moonlight)
(1+7+FET)
ROT66 Nichia in Lumen
Modeset 1 3860
Modeset 2 102, 3860
Modeset 3 102, 705, 3860
Modeset 4 10, 102, 807, 3860
Modeset 5 10, 40, 102, 807, 3860
Modeset 6 6, 32, 102, 378, 807, 3860
Modeset 7 3, 80, 212, 433, 807, 2218, 3860
Modeset 8 807, 3860
The Nichia 219B has a pretty nonlinear output curve. It has a slow startup time at least, and seems like it may have a slow fall time too. To estimate the output, you may need to go from ~10/255 to ~245/255, instead of 1 to 255.
There’s a guy adamant on Twitter that Vinh has been in two movies
Has anyone got their replacement head for the ill-fated XP-L yet?
My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV
I received my SST-20-W40H ROT66 a few days ago. Excellent and pleasant tint, but I think it is of 7×7135 because its output is pretty close to the 219B version when both driven by 100% 1×7135 + 100% Nx7135 (level 3 of mode-set 4).
Alright, just checked with Fireflies. SST-20-W40H is of 7×7135, while the cool white SST-20 is of 14×7135.
That’s different than what Jacky told me, so it’ll be interesting to see what shows up.
I can’t open my 6500K ROT66
Sorry for my poor english.
Maybe you can switch to the mode-set #4, level 3 (moonlight is level 0) and measure its lumen number. Should be > 1400 lm if 14×7135 are used.
The main problem of the bump is that pretty much all carriers have onl spring loaded one side
Now if we want to fit different cell lenghts like from unprotected to protected the springs need to be relatively long
Also Copper alloy springs reduce their leght by time a bit as they are not as flexible as steel, but they are needed for the current
If flat top cells make a bump problem an easy fic is solder blobbed batteries, but this is not a bike light under normal use a bump is very unlikely
It is possible to glue some foam on the tail of the carrier if its not getting pressed enough to the front,
Astrolux MF02 has that problem one one batch the outer contact ring does not maker proper contact on some lights due to production tolerances
The carrier uses 3 rods and yes one of them carriers battery + 2 carry ground, this was decided early in the design process to get on both sides battery + availiable
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Is it sst20 or xpl hi 6500??
I don’t think a solder blob will help in the long term, it will rather wear out the spring and the problem will recur somewhat later.
If this springs reduce their length over time I foresee more bump problems in future. They are simply too short – or the wrong selection at all.
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
It seems the only decent solution to the bump problem is adding a capacitor to keep the driver powered up when the batteries loose contact in a bump. This way the light still turns off in a bump, but it turns back on at the same level instead of resetting to “off”.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Did you take lumen measurements compared with the 219B? How does the tint compare with 219B or any 5A/5D Cree tint flashlights? Maukka tested the SST-20-W 4000k 95CRI from Kaidomain to have some greenish tint.
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