Am I reading the description correctly that the stainless steel tailcap is now standard?

The price on the SST20 version is really compelling considering how close the test results are to the 219B.

Any tradeoffs to Anduril versus NarsilM? From what I’ve read of Anduril, I’m inclined to hope they change to that firmware.

I keep telling myself I don’t need this light, but if I’m being honest, the only reason I haven’t given in yet is I haven’t figured out how to explain yet another light to my wife.

iamlucky13 wrote:

Any tradeoffs to Anduril versus NarsilM?

The biggest one is that Anduril doesn’t have Narsil’s mode set UI. There is no mode where you click once per level at start and then it locks in. And the discrete levels don’t fall exactly on the channel boundaries unless you’re careful.

Instead of the mode set UI, it has a stepped ramp mode. It’s like the smooth ramp, but not smooth. Instead of clicking to go up or holding to go down, it’s hold to go up or release-and-hold to go down.

Anduril also doesn’t provide as much control over the brightness of moon mode. Specifically, it doesn’t go as low as Narsil allows. But in exchange for being potentially brighter in moon, the tradeoff is that Anduril uses less than half as much power.

I don’t like the delayed off that Anduril has, it’s not as intuitive as instant off of Narsil. It’s the Zebralight syndrome where anybody who isn’t used to it thinks they haven’t turned the light off and accidentally activates turbo trying to turn the light off. On the opposite hand, Narsil’s moonlight is delayed in comparison to Anduril, but it does go way lower. Overall I prefer Narsil, but the one thing I wish Narsil had was an obvious blink and slight pause when the ramp reaches the light’s max regulated output, of course that will depend on the driver of the light.

The only thing that would make me potentially not order a SST20 high cri version is knowing that luminous emitters tend to vary wildly in cct and tint depending on their output. Nichias and Crees are less prone.

twisted raven wrote:

I don’t like the delayed off that Anduril has, it’s not as intuitive as instant off of Narsil. It’s the Zebralight syndrome where anybody who isn’t used to it thinks they haven’t turned the light off and accidentally activates turbo trying to turn the light off. On the opposite hand, Narsil’s moonlight is delayed in comparison to Anduril, but it does go way lower. Overall I prefer Narsil, but the one thing I wish Narsil had was an obvious blink and slight pause when the ramp reaches the light’s max regulated output, of course that will depend on the driver of the light.

The only thing that would make me potentially not order a SST20 high cri version is knowing that luminous emitters tend to vary wildly in cct and tint depending on their output. Nichias and Crees are less prone.

a blink when max regulated current is reached could be added doing one of the values right when the FET starts 0 instead 255 of the AMCs
but you may end up while ramping with a small percentage in this off level

Talking about AMCs...does anyone know how many AMCs are being used in the XP-G2 or SST20 version? Maybe this version would be quite appropriate to be fitted with LH351D. The footprint (3535) should be the same but I’m not sure about the space the (revised?) optic or added gasket would leave for this LED.

Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Talking about AMCs…does anyone know how many AMCs are being used in the XP-G2 or SST20 version? Maybe this version would be quite appropriate to be fitted with LH351D. The footprint (3535) should be the same but I’m not sure about the space the (revised?) optic or added gasket would leave for this LED.

351D does not fit under the optics

Just ordered another one. sst20 version. Are they ready to ship?

djozz wrote:

Fireflies is a new company but with some (they mentioned to me) experienced guys who worked for other flashlight companies before (they will not:say which). Before releasing their first flashlight they contacted several people on BLF for advice (they asked me about leds), which is a clever move, but they also have a good nose themselves for what are wanted features and are especially keen on high CRI.

Since they asked you about the LEDs, do you have any idea what tint bin SST-20 4000k they are using? Is it the same FB4 from Kaidomain? But if that’s the case, it would be green and not below the BBL as shown in their test report.

Lexel wrote:

351D does not fit under the optics

JasonWW wrote:

Lexel wrote:

351D does not fit under the optics

Skylumen was somehow able to get them to fit. I don’t know how he did it.

2 possible ways

- drill out the optics holes a bit
- use a thin washer to move the optics further away from MCPCB so it does not touch the dome

SKV89 wrote:

djozz wrote:

Fireflies is a new company but with some (they mentioned to me) experienced guys who worked for other flashlight companies before (they will not:say which). Before releasing their first flashlight they contacted several people on BLF for advice (they asked me about leds), which is a clever move, but they also have a good nose themselves for what are wanted features and are especially keen on high CRI.

Since they asked you about the LEDs, do you have any idea what tint bin SST-20 4000k they are using? Is it the same FB4 from Kaidomain? But if that’s the case, it would be green and not below the BBL as shown in their test report.

I guess they couldn’t find a Samsung without the greenish/yellowish tint. I’m just surprised they were able to find so many 219B 9080 sw45, that is supposedly discontinued. Also really curious which tint bin they selected for the SST-20W. I might buy another one if it is a good tint bin.

I suggested Fireflies a tint bin below the bbl, hope they can source it

Lexel wrote:

I suggested Fireflies a tint bin below the bbl, hope they can source it

Very good suggestion

The 219B version has 7×7135. The emitters seem to have sort of a slow activation time though, so the ramp stalls around the 1×7135 level. I tried to work around this by starting the middle portion of the ramp at a higher PWM level, but even at 15/255 it still stalls a little.

I think the SST20 versions have 14×7135, but I’m not sure yet. I’m also not sure how fast they activate, or if they can use a normal 1/255 floor for the middle channel. I haven’t tried that family of emitters before. So getting the ramp shape right might take some experimentation.

This light is pretty sensitive to bumps! Give it a tap on the tail cap and its off.
Its lacking a buffer cap, as I proposed for the Q8 a while ago:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1193969#comment-1193969

Flashy Mike wrote:

This light is pretty sensitive to bumps! Give it a tap on the tail cap and its off. Its lacking a buffer cap, as I proposed for the Q8 a while ago: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1193969#comment-1193969

How hard do you have to hit it? I just tried it. Slammed it hard against my hand and it didn’t go off. (about 10 times)

Flashy Mike wrote:

This light is pretty sensitive to bumps! Give it a tap on the tail cap and its off. Its lacking a buffer cap, as I proposed for the Q8 a while ago: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1193969#comment-1193969

I’ve found it’s hard to tell when this tail cap is tightened sufficiently. Have had what you’re describing happen before and a bit more tightening took care of it.

Mine did that one night as well, where it would turn off or blink twice from slight bumps to the tail. I thought to myself “gee, when I first got this light I was amazed at how unaffected it was to bumps.” The solution is to just tighten the tailcap more.

Flashy Mike wrote:

This light is pretty sensitive to bumps! Give it a tap on the tail cap and its off. Its lacking a buffer cap, as I proposed for the Q8 a while ago: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1193969#comment-1193969

OMG!

Have the hardware designers learned nothing ? It is not as if they haven’t been told, repeatedly, by me, and Flashy Mike. And the fix is so easy.

This really is inexcusable.

I could rant on, but they just don’t listen. They just regurgitate the same old sad designs, no innovation, no progress.

I despair.

So I just hit the very tightened tailcap of my light and the problem is still there.

Maybe Fireflies should be notified about how to fix it.

twisted raven wrote:

So I just hit the very tightened tailcap of my light and the problem is still there.

Maybe Fireflies should be notified about how to fix it.

As far as modding the driver by adding a capacitor you would need to speak to Lexel about that.

klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:

Lexel wrote:

351D does not fit under the optics

Skylumen was somehow able to get them to fit. I don’t know how he did it.

 

Skylumen says for the ROT665   “Poorly assembled from factory (Email 4 info)”

Maybe a good hint to hold back on purchasing one until they figure it all out.

 

 

JasonWW wrote:

klrman wrote:

 

Skylumen says for the ROT665   "Poorly assembled from factory (Email 4 info)"

Maybe a good hint to hold back on purchasing one until they figure it all out

 

Wasn't that in reference to the xpl-hi being crushed? That has now been sorted.

I don't know, was it?

JasonWW wrote:

klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:

Lexel wrote:

351D does not fit under the optics

"Skylumen":https://skylumen.com/collections/v54-lights/products/fireflies-r0t66vn was somehow able to get them to fit. I don't know how he did it.

 

Skylumen says for the ROT665   "Poorly assembled from factory (Email 4 info)"

Maybe a good hint to hold back on purchasing one until they figure it all out.

Wasn't that in reference to the xpl-hi being crushed? That has now been sorted.

Well, Vinh has put this quote on his advertisement for his modified ROT66 on his website. 

https://skylumen.com/collections/v54-lights/products/fireflies-r0t66vn

He also sells the ROT66 with Samsung LH351D.

I‘m quite surprised that Vinh has the guts to put such a statement on his advertisement for his modified ROT66vn. If I was Jacky from Fireflies I would not be amused at all to read “Poorly assembled from factory (Email 4 info)“ publicly, especially if there’s an official/unofficial business relationship between Vinh and Fireflies. For what it’s worth, there‘s nothing worse one could do to harm the reputation. 

aginthelaw wrote:

Just ordered another one. sst20 version. Are they ready to ship?

I ordered the SST20 6500K / 4000K with AUX Lantern, which is expected to arrive before next Wednesday.

Vinh was the first one to report the problems with the xpl hi version onA CPF. Thats what he meant in the description

I have had my ROT-66 for about a week and have been testing it in the growing dark hours here in Alaska where I live. Here are my thoughts about this light:

Unboxing: A nice gift-worthy box with a magnetic close.

Size and weight: Compact: ¾ scale soda can format. About half the weight of my BLF Q8

Aesthetics: Champagne color. It is elegant. It looks like jewelry. A welcome alternative to basic black.

Emitter/Color: Mine has 9 XPL HI V3 3A. Natural White: I like it. Excellent color rendition. It’s like the noon sun is out.

Brightness: This is a ridiculously bright floodlight. It is the brightest light in my collection that includes Emisar D1, D1S and D4 lights as well as the BLF Q8. How many lumens on Turbo? I don’t know. But it is considerably brighter than my BLF Q8. (Both are powered by new button top Orbtronic ORB-3120 batteries – rewrapped Sony VCT6 – which each kick out 30+ amps for a few minutes.)

Throw distance? Definitely not a throw light. Yet with this much brightness, useable light reaches out a couple hundred yards – only slightly less distance than the Q8.

User Interface: I only use ramping or two-click Turbo. It is intuitive. When ramping up there is a quick blink when it reaches maximum brightness.

Carrying ease: If I am wearing baggy jeans or an overcoat, it is pocketable where the Q8 is not. It also comes with a substantial lanyard which screws into a tripod hole. The lanyard color is also champagne.

Heat management: It gets hot quickly on Turbo. Any longer than 60 seconds requires gloves. During winter in Alaska this heat can be useful. At lower brightness, heat is not an issue.

Fun feature: A glow-in-the dark ring surrounding the LEDs is activated by the brightness of the light. It glows a very attractive blue.

Summary: This is an elegant, small soda can light. This is a ridiculously bright floodlight. This is a useful and well-built light. It will live in my Bentley’s glove box.

Did anybody notice that batt+ goes to the bottom of the battery carrier through one of the three rods? Its the one whose screw is sealed on the top (edit: probably just a rubber plug without screw). So we might get USB charging with an extra tailcap one day.
Or I build a light like my Q8 Janus with less effort …

I suspect there is a major flaw in the battery carrier.
Did some measurements and this are the results:

67 mm is the space between positive cell contact and fully compressed spring at the negative end.
63.7 to 64.7 mm is what I measured with uncompressed springs.

I used this light for about one day mostly with only 1 cell (30Q with flat top), I guess this cell sat where I measured 64.7 mm which means this spring is already worn out a bit (after one day of usage).

According to datasheet a Samsung 30Q may be as short as 64.7 mm. My button top 30Q has 67 mm length, so I can’t use either of them reliably.

With this findings I even doubt a buffer cap alone will help in the long term against power loss on bumps, this light needs better springs (if my light isn’t just an isolated case).

Would anybody measure the named dimensions as well and post his results?