DEAL ENDED - DX XM-LT6 900-Lumen 5-Mode White LED Flashlight - Titanium Color (2x18650) - $29.99 (Normally $41.30)

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dthrckt
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the best anodizing I own is on xtar d06 - this is no where near that.  Not as hard as Xeno (although I have scratched red e03 to bare aluminum in a few spots) but it might actually be thicker. 

I'd say on par w/ other budget type xxxfire but I think it would be slightly better than average if they had put a smoother finish on the metal first.

It seems like it was medium grit blasted before anodizing, and i think the added texture makes it easier to mar the finish - ie I can put a mark on it by scraping w/ the point of a utility knife (that does nothing to xtar) but it doesn't get to bare aluminum - you would have to apply firm pressure to do that.

I guess trying that on both shows lights how much I care about keeping a shelf queen vs using my gear Tongue Out 

I'm quite satisfied for $30, and I haven't even gotten to try it at night yet. 

I'm out of thermal grease but once that's added and I run it on some better cells I'll decide whether or not to mod.  I'm betting others will get higher tailcap readings (my cells are terrible).

It might be worthy of a U2 bin, and some fatter leads (although they're thicker than any others I have).

I have no use for blinky modes, especially in a thrower, but I won't change that unless I find a replacement that is as powerful and fits w/o too much trouble (DX SSt-50 driver is on its way but is bigger and has blinky).

i'll review it (and about 5 other new lights) once I've sorted a replacement for my dunked camera...

it is finally almost dark hereSealed

how2
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dthrckt can you post a pic off the driver and pic of the reflector, can you compare the size with other reflector please like this.

Left Skyray A0 and Trustfire X9 right

2100
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dthrckt wrote:

I'm out of thermal grease but once that's added and I run it on some better cells I'll decide whether or not to mod.  I'm betting others will get higher tailcap readings (my cells are terrible).

It's driven ok, unless if your cells are super terrible.   Other good cells would be getting like 1.4A thereabouts or maybe even lower.  The higher the resistance the more current the driver would draw, coz the less voltage is supplied (or rather more voltage sagged), the driver tries to maintain overall Power.  It does this till the cell no longer can provide any more current.

dthrckt
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topped off my two best cells, 4.23V, both have about 1500 mah (1A discharge to 3.0V)

previous two were 3.8V and only have about 1100mah capacity

now I get 1.88A

it is misting/raining/foggy here so I can't get a good idea how far it is throwing but it sure does have a night visible beam in this weather!

I get 70k lux at one meter.  If somebody can tell me what my warm white xeno should show at 1m we'll have an idea how accurate that is...

my xtar d06 (xml) at 2.6A is 27k

I'll post lots of pictures up when I get a new camera.  In the meantime, I'll measure the reflector for you - once I've picked up some canned air.  I'm out of it, and in a house w/ three dogs you can't avoid getting stuff on the reflector when you take it apart...

2100
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dthrckt wrote:

I get 70k lux at one meter.  If somebody can tell me what my warm white xeno should show at 1m we'll have an idea how accurate that is...

my xtar d06 (xml) at 2.6A is 27k

How big is the head diameter?  Is it 58mm or 63mm? 

I have a warm white Xeno E03, but a lot depends on the cells and i am getting about 1.9A with fully charged TF Flames 14500. Nevertheless i will measure for you (8 hours later), but your measurement distance for this thrower flashlight should be at least 6-7 metres.

 XTAR d06 @ 27k, and this one at 70k, i can say for sure it is over reading.

dthrckt
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OD of head is 60.5mm, the diameter of the reflective surface is 50mm

I was pretty shocked by that reading.

At almost exactly 20 feet I get 710 for D06 and 1800 for the Trustfire D1.

My WW xeno hit 84 lux at the same distance but I couldn't repeat that...it is 75 if it has warmed up at all.  My multimeter shows 2.0A from trustfire gray.  I have 6 of them and each gives a different reading so I can pick whatever one is closest to what you measure and try it again. 

Watching the ammeter is like watching the seconds on a digital watch, except its counting down .01a

at 1 meter the xeno reads 2388 peak lux

2100
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Ok thanks...will try to verify my WW E03.   2.0A drive is ok....no need to be too accurate, but of course 1.2A is not ok.  hehe... 

20ft is fine esp for the E03, no worries. 1m is not.  Smile

Anyway it should be over-reading.  A TK35 with 52mm head gives about 23k or so usually and that one is more or less gunned to the max.   Your Xtar D06 is 44mm head and 2.6A. 

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it will work w/o adding grease...but I wouldn't do any sustained runs until I got some grease and applied it

of course, that's how I handle a little budget light that only draws 0.8A too;)

DX has lots of different kinds of grease and at cheap prices (at least as far as weight/volume goes).

everyone seems to like fujik - or at least I haven't read complaints - but I can't say I've done any real testing.  I've mostly used arctic silver ceramique because it is available (at a ridiculously high price) locally.  It is thick stuff compared to grease.  I'll probably continue to use that under stars but just silicone grease on threads.

edit: btw, the star has plenty of something (probably thermal glue not grease) under it...actually, it looks like too much

2100
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dthrckt wrote:
My WW xeno hit 84 lux at the same distance but I couldn't repeat that...it is 75 if it has warmed up at all.  My multimeter shows 2.0A from trustfire gray.  I have 6 of them and each gives a different reading so I can pick whatever one is closest to what you measure and try it again. 

Bro, i get 54 lux at 20 ft for WW E03.  1.89A at the tail.   If i apply this correction factor to the DX light, yeah it is correct.   My meter under reads by about 10%.

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so, mine over reads by ~20%?!  yikes

so basically you're saying the light performs as expected for amperage and reflector size?

btw, thanks

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Mine was sent on December 14th, so 14 days ago. It can take up to two more weeks, I want to receive it now! xD

So, if driver's hole is 22mm, the driver for the SST-50 doesn't fit correctly, but maybe it can be adapted... we'll see then, I'm waiting for both items.

How does it compare with the Sky Ray STL-V2? which has higher lux readings?

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sorry, don't have one.  this is the only light i have in this style/class.

I think you'll be able to use a wider driver - the pill screws into the head but the collar that joins tail and head has space around the pill (so driver could be wider than pill if the circuit still fits in the pill's hole).

A 1" copper coupling  will fit over the pill and inside the collar.  It isn't a tight fit to either but it will be once I get some copper sheet or foil Smile

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here's a teaser for you Sealed

imho, this light is very well designed - except the lack of a side switch...

2100
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dthrckt wrote:

so, mine over reads by ~20%?!  yikes

so basically you're saying the light performs as expected for amperage and reflector size?

btw, thanks

Yep...looks like it, you need to compare with others to compare how much though.

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I will buy a better one...it just keeps getting bumped down the list by lights, drivers, emitters, etc lol

how2
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dthrckt wrote:

here's a teaser for you Sealed

imho, this light is very well designed - except the lack of a side switch...

Can you post a pic of the bottom of the driver. Is it a cheap driver?

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driver - as you can see it is soldered to a brass collar in the pill, otherwise I'd pop it out so you could see the other side...

I took it at an angle so that you could see the little gap between the pill and collar

here it is again w/ the collar removed.  the little hole at 9 o'clock must be to aid in removing the driver

and one more to show how the pill sits in the collar.  I'm holding the pill slightly higher than where it actually sits or you wouldn't see the gap.

if you put a 1" copper coupling around the pill there is a gap, and there is also a gap between the coupling and the collar.  I forget which gap is larger - one was 0.012 and the other 0.022.  It should be very easy to use copper sheet to fill both gaps. 

There's really no need to do it though.  After thoroughly greasing all the threads and doing a 20 minute tailstand run on high the whole light is nearly the same temperature - very warm - (by feel...didn't bother w/ temp probe).  Even the tailcap...

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Finally arrived. Hmmm, very budget feeling, a lot of failure (dents) outside on the anodized layer, very dusty lens and reflector, no memory function(??wft), little off center emitter.

Measured 1.38A at the tailcap, but it depends on the multimeter and the leads, with thinner leads I got 1.6A.

Overall brightness is about 8% less than BC40.

42000cd that is not so bad, but the quality...

 

unique engrish language... Smile

 

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viffer750 wrote:

Finally arrived. Hmmm, very budget feeling, a lot of failure (dents) outside on the anodized layer, very dusty lens and reflector, no memory function(??wft), little off center emitter.

Measured 1.38A at the tailcap, but it depends on the multimeter and the leads, with thinner leads I got 1.6A.

Overall brightness is about 8% less than BC40.

42000cd that is not so bad, but the quality...

 

after a little modification on the driver, now the tailcap current jumped from 1.38A to 1.9A, with thin leads from  1.6A to 2.2A.  The led current is somewhere 3.8A. 

I got a solid 50000cd. I tried with higher current (2.2A with thick leads), and got above 53kcd, but the brightness sag was so strong, and I didn't want to overstress the driver and the led, so I reverted to the lower 1.9A.

Now, I am satisfied with the result. 

 

 

 

unique engrish language... Smile

 

viffer750
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I just put an additional 0.56ohm resistor there:

1

 

I tried it without the poor glass lens, and reached 55000cd. Something wrong with this lens.

edit:

Okay, I found a lens with almost the same diameter, which is far better than the original, and finally, the best value was 53000cd @1m (measured from 3.17m). That is enough for me. 

unique engrish language... Smile

 

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SWEET.  love you man lol

I have to find my bag of resistors, I might have one of those.

edit: although, I will probably stress the LED a little more because if it burns out I have an excuse to buy better tint Foot in Mouth

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ugh, came home for lunch, it seems I only have  resistors in the 4 - 6 kohm range Foot in Mouth

this is where my knowledge is seriously lacking - ie where to get or scavenge stuff like this...

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So in output, this is no Trustfire X8, huh?

viffer750
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Gorann

First, I am not an expert. Smile

As I see, the most important part of the circuit the power mosfet, which drives the led. This is a "40n03" mosfet, and its rated current is 4A continuous and 16A pulsed. The other power component is a 4.7uH coil,  

and conclude from its size, its rated current above 5A. So if you don't want too much from the driver, it can be modify.

unique engrish language... Smile

 

viffer750
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gorann wrote:

So if I maybe put resistor with litlle higher resistance, in this stock driver, I can get 4,0 amps? 

no, you have to put a lower resistor somewhere 0.3-0.4ohm range (if your driver is the same as mine).

 

 

unique engrish language... Smile

 

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viffer750 wrote:

Gorann

First, I am not an expert. Smile

As I see, the most important part of the circuit the power mosfet, which drives the led. This is a "40n03" mosfet, and its rated current is 4A continuous and 16A pulsed. The other power component is a 4.7uH coil,  

and conclude from its size, its rated current above 5A. So if you don't want too much from the driver, it can be modify.

HA! maybe you're not, but that sure sounds like some 'expertise' to me

where do you get your resistors?  I just browsed radioshack's site in the hope I could snag one locally but didn't see any near that range.

viffer750
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first mouse over/out pic

distance 200m

mouse out UF D1

mouse over Jetbeam BC40

1

unique engrish language... Smile

 

viffer750
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dthrckt wrote:

viffer750 wrote:

Gorann

First, I am not an expert. Smile

As I see, the most important part of the circuit the power mosfet, which drives the led. This is a "40n03" mosfet, and its rated current is 4A continuous and 16A pulsed. The other power component is a 4.7uH coil,  

and conclude from its size, its rated current above 5A. So if you don't want too much from the driver, it can be modify.

HA! maybe you're not, but that sure sounds like some 'expertise' to me

where do you get your resistors?  I just browsed radioshack's site in the hope I could snag one locally but didn't see any near that range.

I ordered from here: http://net-market.hu/elektroart/, but this isn't so helpfull because this is a hungarian site. Smile

Try to find a webshop. Better if you order resistors with difference values, for example 0.1, 0.22, 0.33, 0.56 0.82ohm etc., you can fine tune the driver with these.

unique engrish language... Smile

 

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thanks, I'll find a US one, to hopefully save on shipping.  A big kit would be great, so I don't mess around ordering $1 parts every time I need one...

your beamshots show why I can't use this light around my house (tight suburban homes).  Inside 30 yards (backyard), novices would think the xeno e03 is brighter.  But shine it down the street 4 houses away and people inside turn their lights on to see wtf is going on Innocent

Do you have any other lights in this class to compare it too?  I don't...so I'm just curious what your opinion is.  I'm not too into this kind of light...but they're cool enough that if there is a better (budget) one, I'll get it eventually.

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Today arrived mine, feels cheap, seems to throw well (tested with daylight, comparing with my throwers)

LED is too blueish/purple, but I don't care in this case, for me color is OK.

I haven't measured anything yet because I'm waiting for the SST-50 driver to arrive, ad then I'll see if mod, or change the driver, depending of the current at the LED.

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