KD 7135 V2 drivers 3040/2280/1520 mA 8 modes
Reviewer's Overall Rating: ★★★☆☆
Summary:
| Size: | 17mm |
| Voltage: | 2.5-4.5V |
| Regulation | Linear Regulator |
| Current: | 3040mA |
| Modes: | 8 groups selectable |
| Price Paid: | $4.79 |
| From: |
Pros:
- Well regulated and efficient driver
- Has memory (enabled by soldering)
- Has 3-level groups low-med-high and high-med-low
- Has a very high PWM frequency giving a steady light
- Has a sort of low voltage protection
Cons:
- Low mode is far too low, only glowing
- Memory kicks in 0.5-1 sec after switching on (would prefer after switch off)
- Selection of groups and memory involves soldering
- Can only be used with 1 Li-Ion cell due to power dissipation
KD 7135 V2 drivers 3040/2280/1520 mA 8 modes
Reviewer's Overall Rating: ★★★☆☆
Summary:
| Size: | 17mm |
| Voltage: | 2.5-4.5V |
| Regulation | Linear Regulator |
| Current: | 3040mA |
| Modes: | 8 groups selectable |
| Price Paid: | $4.79 |
| From: |
Pros:
- Well regulated and efficient driver
- Has memory (enabled by soldering)
- Has 3-level groups low-med-high and high-med-low
- Has a very high PWM frequency giving a steady light
- Has a sort of low voltage protection
Cons:
- Low mode is far too low, only glowing
- Memory kicks in 0.5-1 sec after switching on (would prefer after switch off)
- Selection of groups and memory involves soldering
- Can only be used with 1 Li-Ion cell due to power dissipation
2280mA version here
1520 mA version here
Features / Value: ★★★★☆
Mode Groups
The 8 groups are as follows:
1. default (no solder blobs): Low(glowing) - Medium(35%) - High(100%) - Low(glowing) - Medium(35%) - High(100%) -Strobe(10Hz) - Blink(2Hz) - SOS(slooow) - Beacon
2. High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Low(glowing) - High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Low(glowing) - Strobe(10Hz) - Blink(2Hz) - SOS(slooow) - Beacon
3. High(100%) - Medium(35%)
4. High(100%) - Strobe(10Hz)
5. Medium(35%) - High(100%) - Blink(2Hz)
6. High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Blink(2Hz)
7. Low(glowing) - Medium(35%) - High(100%)
8. High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Low(glowing)
The Beacon mode is 2 sec on - 10 sec off.
The SOS mode is super slow (12 sec signal, 8 sec pause).
The PWM frequency (for low and medium) is very high at 15000 Hz.
Mode switching
The KD 7135 V2 has four soldering pads (numbered S4,S3,S2,S1 from left to right) on the bottom side to select mode groups by applying a solder blob connecting one or more of the pads to the corresponding ground pad.
[EDIT]: Beware of the schematics on KD's site. It is faulty for the last 4 modes. KD's site seems to be corrected now.
the mode selection should be:
1: no solder blobs
2: connect S2 to ground with a solder blob.
3: connect S2 and S3 to ground with solder blobs.
4: solder blobs on S2, S3 and S4
5: solder blobs on S3 and S4
6: solder blob on S4
7: solder blobs on S2 and S4
8: solder blob on S3
Mode Memory
This can be selected by applying a solder blob at S1. The mode memory snaps in about 0.5-1 second after a mode switch. I normally prefers memory after switch-off so I do'nt have to tap twice to shift level.
Build Quality: ★★★★★
Seems to be fine (like NANJG drivers). In fact I don't know which brand this is. The circuit board is marked: L3AD4S TM. But it should withstand normal soldering with a fine tipped soldering iron.
The MCU is without marking but is connected like a PIC12F629. So home programming is not as easy as for the ATtiny13 (BLF project by Tido).
Battery Life: ★★★☆☆
Linear regulators with 7135 devices normally are well regulated and efficient. At lower battery voltages the drive becomes direct with a very little loss. The high current is hard to the battery and demands a quality type battery (low internal resistance). The driver is not suited to use two LiIon cells as it will become too hot (4 additional Watts has to be dispersed for each ampere drawn). The low voltage protection is activated at 2.9 V where the current draw jumped from 0.69 A to 0.13 A. This is still a much too high current draw from an un-attended battery at 2.9 V. At 2.65 V the current draw was down to 10 mA. The MCU itself draws about 2 mA.
Current Output: ★★★★★
The output current of 3.04 A is fine to drive the XM-L fully but I would prefere to remove a few of the 7135 with a heat gun and use them as cheap spare parts.
The driver has no boost capability so it must be expected that the output falls at lower battery voltages where the drive becomes direct with no regulation.
The driver comes complete with a (rather thin) red and a black lead to connect to the LED.
Summary: ★★★☆☆
This driver could have been the answer to many peoples prayers regarding drivers with its low-med-high and high-med-low modes without blinking modes, but the glowing Low is a deal breaker. There is the possibility to make a two level (100% - 35%) light though and the choice of memory or no memory is very fine. But compared to the late NANJG 105C I have to withdraw a star for the unusable low and the hard-to-reprogram MCU.
Is the current really 3040mA? I mean they are the same AMC7135 chips as with the Nanjg 105C.
Look at this datasheet.
Some manufacturers sort the 7135's in bins. I have a NANJG 105 with 7135's marked "35V". This stands for 350 mA.
You can see on the picture of the KD V2 driver that the 7135's are marked "38K". This is the 380 mA bin.
Seems promising..
very interesting how you can actually set the modes yourself!
But I guess you shouldnt have shaky hands to do this..
all on a diameter of 17mm... wow
The Eneloop 2005-2022 info thread
I understand.
Mine have 35S and 35B. I've seen aslo 35V, 35W. And on this driver they are 38K.
Sorry to ask this again, but have you actually got that 3040mA reading?
You do the same on the Nanjg 105C, set the modes yourself or even write new ones in the Atiny chip.
Actually I do not find useful the blink modes or the crowded modes on this driver.
Thanks for the review, sixty545!
Do you think it can work well with 3xAA configuration, as in the MCU-C88? Most likely Eneloop or Energizer Ultimate batteries.
The medium-high-blink mode could make a perfect keep-in-car flashlight, but if the low isn't too low to read a map, the default mode could also be great for this use.
Writing new ones in the Atiny chip? sounds complicated!
at least looks like you need to have more tools than the usual screwdriver and solder iron
The Eneloop 2005-2022 info thread
You don't need more tools, just the corrent tool. There's a whole thread going on for a year now, only regarding that matter. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/799
The same soldering iron for changing modes on the Nanjg 105C, you need also for this new driver available on KD. You don't need a screwdriver
I could only get 2Amps from my equipment because of resistances in battery, leads and switch. But I am confident that the driver will deliver the full current when build into a flashlight. I checked the ratio between high and mid by observing the waveform in mid mode with an oscilloscope. It gave me about 33% (specs said 35%). The current waveform in low was really ugly, just some thin spikes at 15000 Hz resulting in a current of 5 mA of which the MCU uses 2 mA.
Sorry for the basic question but I want to drive a XPE R2 at close to 2 amps so can I use the 2280mA and simply unsolder one of the 7135 chips to give approx 1930mA? TIA.
Thanks for the reply sixty545.
I asked that becasue you know how specs are in general, they need to be tested. Even though the 7135 "35" chips have been proved until now, these are new and not proven yet.
2A it's pretty low so far. Hopefully someone mounts it in a flashlight and we'll get a "in the field" reading of the current.
That can be done, the resulting drive current will be 2280 - 380 = 1900 mA. I think I would choose the 1520 mA type as it is not a very easy task to remove a chip if you have not tried it before and the benefit of driving the XPE that hard is little. It can be done thougt with a heat gun with a small nose and pliers or with a medium big soldering iron, but it is easy to overdo the heating.
Awesome info. I had no idea these were binned...does each get tested individually?
Do you have any sources for the bare chips by chance?
Thanks for the review.
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If you really want 2A it might be easier to just grab some of these.
"You are making progress if each mistake you make is a new one."
Remember - Most great discoveries start with maki
Thanks guys, I'm not worried about giving it a try with the soldering iron and I quite like the user selectable modes so I'll give it a go.
Mine came the other day , got the 2A and 3A ones ..
Certainly look interesting ..
Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….
Id be most interested to know if the 3A versions actually test out at 3A. Do you plan on installing one soon? Are your 7135's also marked as "38K"?
Ive got my fingers crossed for this one. Lets hope it performs as expected.
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What is that part on the left side of the solder pads? It is missing on one of my drivers.
That's a decoupling capacitor for the µC to stabilize it's power supply.
Probably works without it.
Thx
I got the 2280 mAh version today and just finished a dropin. Mine are marked 38K and I tested the dropin on high and got 2.274 A. So good news there.
The bad news is that the low mode is just two damn low. These needed to keep the low of the 105c (60-80mA) and then have the new moonlight mode (6-7 mA on this 2280 version) as an option instead of having 4 disco modes. So close and yet so far. I'm glad I have a reserve of 105c's.
Does this fit the "famous" UF-980L? (17mm?) Now that i have so many throwers, i'd like to give that light a new lease of life. The looks and built is pretty decent, but then the PWM turns me off.
I'll see if it fits the Yezl big head XM-L floody as well. That light is decent, and is a XM-L flooder, has a decent low but the 90Hz PWM renders it somewhat unusable.
Had a couple of the 8*7135 version arrive today. Both are 38K's
"You are making progress if each mistake you make is a new one."
Remember - Most great discoveries start with maki
Thanks very much for the well done review! Frontpage'd and Sticky'd.
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Any idea on the lumens of the low low? I am waiting for the 3040 to arive. I was worried about the low low being too high. Now I'm really worried it's too low. Would it be lower than a quark low?
A measurement of the LED (XM-L T6) in low mode was 0.9 Lumen in my integrating sphere. In a light that will become around 0.7 Lumen.
That doesn't sound too bad. Quarks are around .2 lumens to .9 . I guess I'll have to see when I get it though.
On a Quark the next step up isn't 300+ lumens.
It would have made so much sense to go with 4 levels. I bet a revision will be in the works quickly.
The 105c gives me 2.8 and this one gives 2.91 with a 4.05V Rev.Jim. The low is a really nice single lumen. To me, the leads were easier to solder than on the 105c. Just a bit more room. I went for three mode, LMH with no memory. I really like this driver a lot with all the different setup choices.
Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "
I hope to get around to testing them after Xmas , ordered a lot of stuff , and nothing got here before Xmas [ my stuff ]
I bought an ebay light , and the plan was to use it for testing these drivers
Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….
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