Review: KD 7135 V2 drivers 3040/2280/1520 mA with mode configuration

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Tony Hanna
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I just replaced the driver in my MF UF 3 mode with one of these. No way to measure current at the led but I'm seeing 3.04A at the tail with a freshly charged (4.21v) AW IMR and 3.00A from an AW 3100 at 4.07v. I'm pretty happy with these results since I was seeing 3.8A+ from the 3100 and 4.5A+ from the IMR with the original driver. Hopefully the heat and output sag will be reduced. I also like the low. It seems to be about perfect for reading a map in a dark car without blinding the driver or looking for something in the bedroom without disturbing the wife's sleep.Smile

Haggai
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How does mode switching work here?

The OP writes: "The mode memory snaps in about 0.5-1 second after a mode switch. I normally prefers memory after switch-off so I do'nt have to tap twice to shift level."

In a KD review is written: "I would rather have it switch modes with a single 'off/on', but it takes two 'off/of' cycles to switch modes. Not really a big deal, maybe even better. Just used to switching with a single click is all..."

Two taps to switch modes when the light is on? Or just one?

And what about memory - what does it mean that it "snaps in about 0.5-1 second after a mode switch"? Only that if I switch the light off less than 0.5 a second after a mode switch it doesn't remember the last mode or anything more than that?

Do the answers to the above questions change if I disable mode memory?

Tony Hanna
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I have memory disabled so that it starts in high every time but the way I understand it is that it will remember the mode if left on in that mode for .5-1s. In order to switch modes you have to switch off then back on (to clear the memory) then quickly switch off and back on again to jump to the next mode. I'm not sure what happens if you switch modes and then turn it off within .5s but my guess is that it would start in the next mode when you turn it on again later.

Tony Hanna
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Has anybody tried making a sandwich with these drivers? I'd like to make a 3 board sandwich with the 3A version and I was wondering if a single mcu would handle all 24 of the 7135s?

Thanks,

Tony

jspeybro
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sixty545 wrote:

Build Quality:  ★★★★★

Seems to be fine (like NANJG drivers). In fact I don't know which brand this is. The circuit board is marked: L3AD4S TM. But it should  withstand normal soldering with a fine tipped soldering iron.

The MCU is without marking but is connected like a PIC12F629. So home programming is not as easy as for the ATtiny13 (BLF project by Tido).

 

anyone tried programming the PIC12F629 with their own code? I seem to have problems communicating with the chip. I checked my connections, but all seem ok. could it be one of the components on the PCB that prevents somehow the programming signals from working correctly?

 

wiljen
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I gotta say, I love what you listed as a con.   I loaded up one of the 3040 mA version with a XML U2 in a p60 and using the panasonic 3100 cells, the ultra low will run for hours and hours and hours and put out enough light to read by, read a map, check on sleeping kids, etc.   If I find anything is wrong with the driver, the medium is too close to the high.  If I could, my alteration to it would be to keep the high and low and lower the mid by about 1/2.

Mr.BrightLights
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Tony Hanna wrote:

Has anybody tried making a sandwich with these drivers? I'd like to make a 3 board sandwich with the 3A version and I was wondering if a single mcu would handle all 24 of the 7135s?

Thanks,

Tony

Wouldn't a 2 board sandwich work better for our 26650trple XML lights?
Kajman
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You mean whole board or only AMC's

Mr.BrightLights
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The 7135
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sixty545 wrote:

Jeansy wrote:

Sorry for the basic question but I want to drive a XPE R2 at close to 2 amps so can I use the 2280mA and simply unsolder one of the 7135 chips to give approx 1930mA? TIA.

That can be done, the resulting drive current will be 2280 - 380 = 1900 mA. I think I would choose the 1520 mA type as it is not a very easy task to remove a chip if you have not tried it before and the benefit of driving the XPE that hard is little. It can be done thougt with a heat gun with a small nose and pliers or with a medium big soldering iron, but it is easy to overdo the heating.

Well, not the prettiest idea but if needed to remove a single or few amc 7135 chips i simply crushed them with pliers and carefully removed the leftovers. Works.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Tony Hanna
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Madi05 wrote:
Tony Hanna wrote:

Has anybody tried making a sandwich with these drivers? I'd like to make a 3 board sandwich with the 3A version and I was wondering if a single mcu would handle all 24 of the 7135s?

Thanks,

Tony

Wouldn't a 2 board sandwich work better for our 26650trple XML lights?

Probably. Smile

I'm just exploring options. Right now I'm running mine basically DD using the UF XM-L P60 driver and according to my meter with 10ga leads it pulls around 12A (4A per emitter) at startup off of a fresh imr. I figured 9A from a 3 board sandwich would make for a nice "wow" or turbo mode leaving medium and low for normal use. Though I guess I'd be better off to keep it below 2C from a 4000mah cell so it's not limited to running imr. Maybe a 2 board sandwich with some extra 7135s to push it closer to 8A on high? Anyhow, I was just curious if there is a limit to how many 7135s a single mcu can handle if I remove the mcu from the other board and slave the "dummy" board to the board with the mcu?

Thanks,

Tony

Andi
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Low i measured with 1mA, means my Fandyfire HD2010(with 26650) will now glow for ~5 Months Laughing

 

okwchin
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I find the low to be on the bright side!!!!!!!!! lol? Its still significantly brighter than the low on a D10/EX10 ramping, and about the same as the low on a D10/EX10 SP.

I have mine in a skyray G6. removed 5 of the 7135's to leave 3 behind to provide something I'm guessing to be around the 1.2A mark for an XP-G.

Mode spacing for low/med/high is not bad at all IMO, a low that is *FINALLY* low enough to call a low (IMO), a medium that is not too close to being a high, could be a tad lower, but not bad at all, and plenty of power on high. Im currently running mine without memory, and on grouping number 1, so I can get 2 sets of l-m-h, followed by the disco. Because of the lack of mode memory, this works great because I rarely have to see the disco unless I actually want to.

Pretty happy with everything except the fact that it is still "on-time" memory. Off-time memory would have made this perfect. This means that if i don't turn it on for more than a second, it will go to the next mode next time I turn it on. In other words, if I were to pick up the torch one day, I cannot always guarantee that it will start on low. This does annoy me, and is why I prefer the off-time memory, in addition to the fact that mode switching requires double tapping initially.

I bought the 3A version because I get a good supply of 7135 chips for practically 10c extra over the lower current models. I find them easy to remove too!, just use 2 soldering irons that are well tinned and a "helping hands" alligator clip on a metal base to hold the board. Heat up the heatsink tab with one iron, and the 3 pins on the other iron, and when its all heated up enough, it simply slides off, usually done with a couple seconds with no collateral damage at all.

 

So would I buy more? likely, but I only have 2 torches that actually need replacement, the rest already have UIs that I'm happy with.

"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" -  ohnonothimagain

Tony Hanna
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For anybody that wants a brighter low, simply break the trace to the Vdd pin on one of the 7135s and solder a jumper from the Vdd pin to B+. This will put that 7135 on full all the time so low becomes roughly 380ma. A word of caution: Only do this if you're using protected cells as this will defeat the driver's low voltage protection.

Jezzab
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Any change of a picture of that Tony?

E1320
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Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

Tony Hanna
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Jezzab wrote:

Any change of a picture of that Tony?

I've already got that driver installed in a light but here's a link to the data sheet so you can see the VDD pin I'm talking about. It just needs to be isolated from the mcu either by breaking the trace or unsoldering/lifting the pin and then jumpered to B+.

http://www.soiseek.com/ADDTEK/AMC7135/datasheet.htm

wiljen
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I'm gonna guess that explaining what B+ is too might be good.

 

 

Tony Hanna
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wiljen wrote:

I'm gonna guess that explaining what B+ is too might be good.

 

Battery positive. If you use one of the 7135s that's on the battery side of the board, the jumper wire can be run from the VDD pin to the pad that the spring is soldered to.

Just be sure that the VDD pin for the 7135 you're using is disconnected from the trace on the board or it will backfeed the others and you'll lose all modes except high.

FX-32
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E1320 wrote:

Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers.

What are the modes settings with the reflash you did?

E1320
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FX-32 wrote:

E1320 wrote:

Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers.

What are the modes settings with the reflash you did?

.002, .085, .650, 1.5, 3.15

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

Mr.BrightLights
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Soon I will sandwich a triple with these:) hopefully it will be a beast ,lol
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Piggyback works fine, i soldered 2 extra 7135 (350mA) on it, and driver delivers 3,74A.

 

kmpoukou
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Hi

I need your help

I bought this driver from kaidomain and i can't get even  close to 3040ma. The maximum ma i measured(from the battery to the driver) in high mode is 1450ma. What i have done until now 1 

and

I have connected this driver to:

2 ultrafire 501b, (1 ebay and 1 manasoft.com)

1 ultrafire c8, (ebay)

1 citipower x5(ultrafire 502b clone)

All of them have the xm-l t6 leds

 

 

my batteries are 

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-18650-3-7v-true-2400mah...

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-2000mah-3-7v-tr-18650-battery-2-pack-12396

and

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafire-protected-18650-3-7v-2400mah-lithium-batteries-2-pack-grey-19624

I fully charge them to 4,2v with 1A charge rate with a turnigy accucel 6 charger

I even tried to connect 2 18650 batteries(same brand) in parallel just in case my batteries have high internal resistant. 

I replaced the thin cable from the driver to the led with a thicker cable 2mm diameter

 

Note: I didn't soldered any bridge

 

I had no luck whatever I tried until now

Do you have any idea what is wrong or what i sould try next?

I am not a hero in english language so please try to post in simple english

Thanks

 

E1320
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kmpoukou wrote:

Hi

I need your help

I bought this driver from kaidomain and i can't get even  close to 3040ma. The maximum ma i measured(from the battery to the driver) in high mode is 1450ma. What i have done until now 

and

 

I have connected this driver to:

2 ultrafire 501b, (1 ebay and 1 manasoft.com)

1 ultrafire c8, (ebay)

1 citipower x5(ultrafire 502b clone)

All of them have the xm-l t6 leds

 

 

my batteries are 

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-18650-3-7v-true-2400mah...

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-2000mah-3-7v-tr-18650-battery-2-pack-12396

and

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafire-protected-18650-3-7v-2400mah-lithium-batteries-2-pack-grey-19624

I fully charge them to 4,2v with 1A charge rate with a turnigy accucel 6 charger

I even tried to connect 2 18650 batteries(same brand) in parallel just in case my batteries have high internal resistant. 

I replaced the thin cable from the driver to the led with a thicker cable 2mm diameter

 

Note: I didn't soldered any bridge

 

I had no luck whatever I tried until now

Do you have any idea what is wrong or what i sould try next?

I am not a hero in english language so please try to post in simple english

Thanks

 

Try a different DMM or different leads on your DMM some have a hard time reading above 1 amp.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

FX-32
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E1320 wrote:

kmpoukou wrote:

Hi

I need your help

I bought this driver from kaidomain and i can't get even  close to 3040ma. The maximum ma i measured(from the battery to the driver) in high mode is 1450ma. What i have done until now 

and

 

I have connected this driver to:

2 ultrafire 501b, (1 ebay and 1 manasoft.com)

1 ultrafire c8, (ebay)

1 citipower x5(ultrafire 502b clone)

All of them have the xm-l t6 leds

 

 

my batteries are 

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-18650-3-7v-true-2400mah...

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-2000mah-3-7v-tr-18650-battery-2-pack-12396

and

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafire-protected-18650-3-7v-2400mah-lithium-batteries-2-pack-grey-19624

I fully charge them to 4,2v with 1A charge rate with a turnigy accucel 6 charger

I even tried to connect 2 18650 batteries(same brand) in parallel just in case my batteries have high internal resistant. 

I replaced the thin cable from the driver to the led with a thicker cable 2mm diameter

 

Note: I didn't soldered any bridge

 

I had no luck whatever I tried until now

Do you have any idea what is wrong or what i sould try next?

I am not a hero in english language so please try to post in simple english

Thanks

 

Try a different DMM or different leads on your DMM some have a hard time reading above 1 amp.

I think the same, everything indicates thin wires or a bad DMM; You can try with thick wires directly to the DMM (Digital Multi Meter). I used to have this problem, I and solved it that way with 5mm² (AWG10) wires.

Budgeteer
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Perhaps the batteries are not up to the job. Did you get any higher reading in a DD light?

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

FX-32
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Budgeteer wrote:

Perhaps the batteries are not up to the job. Did you get any higher reading in a DD light?

I don't think so, he used TrustFire "Flames" and connected them in parallel.

kmpoukou
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Thank you all for your post.

I have to admit i didn't thing to change my multimeter.

I have 2 multimeter

1X25usd from dx and 1X5usd?!?!? from ebay.  The results i have with the first dmm is 1250ma, with the second 1100ma but with both of them(in paraller) about 2000ma (first dmm 1100ma, second dmm 900ma).

First i connected the 25usd dmm and then I connected the second.... wow the output was awesome. Since i don't own a third dmmLaughing i left the 2 dmms connected in pareller and i added a 1mm 20mm long cable in parallel too.... and wow! even more output than the 2 dmms in paraller so the mystery solved. The strange thing is that the 2 dmms was still had indications when i  connected the extra cable(800ma the first and 350ma the second)

So now i need a recommendation for a multimeter(not very expensive) and thick leads for my future explorationsLaughing

If DD stands for direct drive the answer is yes but as you see the problem was the dmm.

Buwuve
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Do you solder a connection between the driver (battery negative ring) and the pill?

Light up the darkness.

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