Review: KD 7135 V2 drivers 3040/2280/1520 mA with mode configuration

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kmpoukou
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Buwuve wrote:

Do you solder a connection between the driver (battery negative ring) and the pill?

I am not sure what is the pill but i didn't solder anything. I used crocodile clips(extra cable and the cheap dmm have them installed)

Buwuve
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kmpoukou wrote:

Buwuve wrote:

Do you solder a connection between the driver (battery negative ring) and the pill?

I am not sure what is the pill but i didn't solder anything. I used crocodile clips(extra cable and the cheap dmm have them installed)

The pill is the brass part of the flashlight, where the LED is glued on. 

For example this part, if it is a drop-in:

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S010133

To get a good result you have to solder a battery negative ring to the brass part.

 

 

Light up the darkness.

kmpoukou
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I almost destroyed the driver(solder-desolder many times) so i decided to install it to one of my flashlight and i ordered a new one from kaidomain.

I also ordered this http://www.kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S005025 SSC P7 5-mode driver which will direct drive my xml t6 led.

I will test the p7 driver with a half charged 18650 battery(not imr) and gradually until 4,2volts.

My tailcap has 0.4-0.5 resistance so I hope I can use it without burning my led. I will post my test results here.

DrJones
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E1320 said:

Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers. 

Are you sure it's the same board? It seems to have a quite different pin layout; others said so, too. 
Or did you refer to the PIC version of the NANJG105(A)?
Can you take a photo of the driver?

pelle
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Hi,

New to this forum, and flashlight diy projects. But I like it already! Smile

I'm thinking about using this driver (2280) with a 16340 battery, and a suitable xm-l led (something like  http://www.dealextreme.com/p/xm-lt6-885lm-led-emitter-6000k-white-light-bulb-3-0-3-5v-50599 ). What do you experts think about that? 

mitro
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pelle wrote:

Hi,

New to this forum, and flashlight diy projects. But I like it already! Smile

I'm thinking about using this driver (2280) with a 16340 battery, and a suitable xm-l led (something like  http://www.dealextreme.com/p/xm-lt6-885lm-led-emitter-6000k-white-light-bulb-3-0-3-5v-50599 ). What do you experts think about that? 

Welcome! IMO you'd be better off with the 1.5A version of this driver if using a 16340, especially if you are using a non-IMR cell. (IMRs are more suited for high current than regular (LiCo) cells). I tend to be on the conservative side, so others may disagree.

Last night I put a 2280 into my Yezl Z1x (UF2100) and boy does that get warm quick. I don't know how you guys with DD drivers in those things handle it.

pelle
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Thanks mitro! Aside the heat, are there any serious cons with my configuration? Guess battery time will suffer, but if I use aw imr battery and doesnt run it on hi mode all the time it shouldnt explode, or burn the led or something like that...? I think it could be a pretty powerful torch!
Trancersteve
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I have 5 of these winging their way to me. 

I am very interested in learning how to re-program this driver.

What equipment and software would I need in order to do this? 

Many thanks

I wear my sunglasses at night.

FX-32
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Trancersteve wrote:

I have 5 of these winging their way to me. 

I am very interested in learning how to re-program this driver.

What equipment and software would I need in order to do this? 

Many thanks

I haven't tried yet, but with an "Arduino Duemilanove" and a "Soic 8 Clip" I think it's enough. Look for them at eBay.

Trancersteve
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FX-32 wrote:

Trancersteve wrote:

I have 5 of these winging their way to me. 

I am very interested in learning how to re-program this driver.

What equipment and software would I need in order to do this? 

Many thanks

I haven't tried yet, but with an "Arduino Duemilanove" and a "Soic 8 Clip" I think it's enough. Look for them at eBay.

Thanks FX-32 I will check them out. Edit: Is there any chance you could give it a try and see if it works?

Does anyone know of a budget 3xAA host for these drivers?

I wear my sunglasses at night.

brted
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Has anybody taken a picture of one of these after modifying for a mode group or feature? Do you just bridge the gap as if a resistor were there?

Langcjl
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brted wrote:

Has anybody taken a picture of one of these after modifying for a mode group or feature? Do you just bridge the gap as if a resistor were there?

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/c8-module-xml-t6-led-amc17358-driver-p-261.html

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

garrybunk
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Trancersteve wrote:

Does anyone know of a budget 3xAA host for these drivers?

See JohnnyMac's SAIK-305 mod here. Might be a little more modding than you wanted, I don't know.  I too bought this light to do the same thing.

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
brted
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Thanks, Langcjl, but that's a 105C. I know how to do those. These KD ones are a little different.

Trancersteve
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garrybunk wrote:

Trancersteve wrote:

Does anyone know of a budget 3xAA host for these drivers?

See JohnnyMac's SAIK-305 mod here. Might be a little more modding than you wanted, I don't know.  I too bought this light to do the same thing.

-Garry

Thanks for pointing this out Garry. It is definitely interesting. While I really appreciate JohnnyMac's work, this solution involves too much heavy modding for me.

**Solarforce, are you reading this?!**
There is a massive gap in the market for a 3xAA P60 host with the same configuration as the Saik SA-305, using a 3xAA cradle.
**Solarforce, are you reading this?!**

I'm not much of a fan of it, but the Dereelight Javelin with the extender seems like the better option for me.

While also being useful to me; this driver is screaming out to be gifted out in a 3xAA host to friends/family (non-flashalcoholics).

I wear my sunglasses at night.

Langcjl
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brted wrote:

Thanks, Langcjl, but that's a 105C. I know how to do those. These KD ones are a little different.

I did realize that after I posted. This one is just two little solder pads that have to be bridged. I had a heck of a time doing it but it should have been really easy. 

   I really like this driver and have used a bunch of them, the only problem I have is that the tiny spring will give fits in some applications. Sometimes I have to stretch the spring to make contact. The last setup I had trouble with was a SF L2T. I tried all of my longest batteries and it was still too short. The spring is very stiff so I dont just pull it to stretch it. I bend each coil up one at a time.

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

ezarc
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sixty545 wrote:


default (no solder blobs): Low(glowing) - Medium(35%) - High(100%) - Low(glowing) - Medium(35%) - High(100%) -Strobe(10Hz) - Blink(2Hz) - SOS(slooow) - Beacon

2. High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Low(glowing) - High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Low(glowing) - Strobe(10Hz) - Blink(2Hz) - SOS(slooow) - Beacon

3. High(100%) - Medium(35%)

4. High(100%) - Strobe(10Hz)

5. Medium(35%) - High(100%) - Blink(2Hz)

6. High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Blink(2Hz)

7. Low(glowing) - Medium(35%) - High(100%)

8. High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Low(glowing)

The Beacon mode is 2 sec on - 10 sec off.

The SOS mode is super slow (12 sec signal, 8 sec pause).

The PWM frequency (for low and medium) is very high at 15000 Hz.

 


The KD 7135 V2 has four soldering pads (numbered S4,S3,S2,S1 from left to right) on the bottom side to select mode groups by applying a solder blob connecting one or more of the pads to the corresponding ground pad.

Beware of the schematics on KD's site. It is faulty for the last 4 modes, the mode selection should be:

1: no solder blobs

2: connect S2 to ground with a solder blob.

3: connect S2 and S3 to ground.

4: S2, S3 and S4

5: S3 and S4 (not S2)

6: S4 (not S2 and S3)

7: S2 and S4 (not S3)

8: S3 (not S2 and S4)

 

Mode Memory

This can be selected by applying a solder blob at S1. The mode memory snaps in about 0.5-1 second after a mode switch. I normally prefers memory after switch-off so I do'nt have to tap twice to shift level.

 

 

Just to double check before I make a mistake when mine arrive.

If I want Low > Med > High, I would solder S2 and S4

And for memory just solder S1 as well?

DrJones
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FX-32 wrote about reprogramming these:
> I haven't tried yet, but with an "Arduino Duemilanove" and a "Soic 8 Clip" I think it's enough.

I still need confirmation that someone really reprogrammed this driver - and how exactly. It uses a different micro-controller.

sixty545
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ezarc wrote:

 

 

Just to double check before I make a mistake when mine arrive.

If I want Low > Med > High, I would solder S2 and S4

And for memory just solder S1 as well?

Exactly!

Mr.BrightLights
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sixty545 wrote:

ezarc wrote:

 

 

Just to double check before I make a mistake when mine arrive.

If I want Low > Med > High, I would solder S2 and S4

And for memory just solder S1 as well?

Exactly!

What do u do just put a bead of solder on top of each or do u connect them to something? Thanks
sixty545
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Each of the solder pads S1, S2, S3 and S4 has an adjacent pad connected to the outer ring (connected to battery minus) -see picture.

Notice that S2 is situated just below the center of the spring (badly marked).

Just connect pad S1 to its adjacent pad with a blob of solder if you want to activate S1 (memory). The same for the other pads.

[EDIT] changed 'opposite' to 'adjacent'. Sorry, english is not my native language.

brted
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So in that picture, none of them are actually connected, right?

Mr.BrightLights
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sixty545 wrote:

Each of the solder pads S1, S2, S3 and S4 has an opposite pad connected to the outer ring (connected to battery minus) -see picture.

Notice that S2 is situated just below the center of the spring (badly marked).

Just connect pad S1 to the opposite pad with a blob of solder if you want to activate S1 (memory). The same for the other pads.

So connect the pad behind the pad to activate?
sixty545
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brted wrote:

So in that picture, none of them are actually connected, right?

Correct, but they have been when I tested it (residual solder on the pads).

The upper pads are S4, S3, S2, S1. The lower pads are their adjacent pads and are part of the ring. A connection would be a small vertical line connecting an upper and a lower pad. (I don't know how to paint over the picture). Is it clear now?

[EDIT] changed 'opposite' to 'adjacent'.

agedbriar
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I received one of theese a few days ago, and now the included instructions match the mode selection table in the OP.

The instructions also advise applying thermal epoxy to avoid thermal protection kicking in prematurely. What is anyone's experience in this regard? I would rather skip that messy step... Wink

benckie
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The last one i did i did not add any and it works fine but it is a V1 and its only used for short burts, i use my big guys for the long hauls 

jamesearljonesi...
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Mr.BrightLights wrote:
sixty545 wrote:

Each of the solder pads S1, S2, S3 and S4 has an opposite pad connected to the outer ring (connected to battery minus) -see picture.

Notice that S2 is situated just below the center of the spring (badly marked).

Just connect pad S1 to the opposite pad with a blob of solder if you want to activate S1 (memory). The same for the other pads.

So connect the pad behind the pad to activate?

S1 & S3 bridged/

 

 

wanted to add pic of firefly mode

sc600 L  turboX M    F15  R

beams are dimmer thann pic. Zl lowest then 47s then TF.

03/04/16 

 

8 lives left

nekdo12
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sixty545 wrote:

.....

  • Has a very high PWM frequency giving a steady light

.....

So lower modes are PWM, but on high ti is current regulated?

Andi
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Yes, you can use 26650 Li-Mn and have not more mA. Wink

 

Trancersteve
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nekdo12 wrote:

sixty545 wrote:

.....

  • Has a very high PWM frequency giving a steady light

.....

So lower modes are PWM, but on high ti is current regulated?

I will be annoyed if so, no PWM is the reason why I bought this driver. KD state that all modes are current regulated.

I wear my sunglasses at night.

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