Review: KD 7135 V2 drivers 3040/2280/1520 mA with mode configuration

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Hikelite
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Trancersteve wrote:

nekdo12 wrote:

sixty545 wrote:

.....

  • Has a very high PWM frequency giving a steady light

.....

So lower modes are PWM, but on high ti is current regulated?

I will be annoyed if so, no PWM is the reason why I bought this driver. KD state that all modes are current regulated.

All 7135*8 are current regulated. They are current controlled on High mode and PWM on Medium an Low.  A difference, regulated - controlled. They want to say constant current.

This driver using the 380mA chips seems the same.

 

ezarc
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I got mine in the mail today, they are tiny...

My soldering iron is way too big to even attempt it and I doubt hold my hands steady enough to hold the soldering iron anyway.

Or maybe I can find smaller tips but there isnt any electronics shops around here.

dthrckt
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before I got an iron w/ small tip I would do tiny stuff by stripping more of the wire, putting a little blob of solder on the end of it, putting that in place and then holding the iron onto the wire as close as i could get to the blob...

and, as for pwm - i must be the luckiest budget light guy, w/ respect to pwm - i have to try to notice it and it doesn't bother me (though, I'm sure I haven't seen the worst stuff that's out there...)

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Trancersteve
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I received my set of five today and didn't waste any time.

You need steady hands for soldering on to this drop-in, it's the size of a 5p coin!

I soldered the supplied wires for the LED and soldered the points to allow for memory and Hi-Med-Low sequence.

After a little sanding of the drop-in I placed it inside a Ultrafire C8.

This is all a very much first impressions basis, however the drop-in appears to be fantastic! Low is very low, I'd call it 'near moonlight', it's actually brighter than the typical 0.2L of moonlight - very useful.

Medium is a perfect brightness. Inside a C8 body you can leave medium running until the cows come home without fear of thermal issues.

High is very bright!

Tailcap Measurements

Hi: 3A
Mid: 880mA
Low: 7mA

PWM

Low: ?? - Unable to detect.
Med: 15.4khz
Hi: ?? - Unable to detect.

The PWM on medium is fantastic, this drop-in shows that PWM can work well. Not only is it of a high frequency but also a high duty cycle is implemented. I'm very sensitive to PWM and I'm unable to see evidence of PWM with my eyes. Laughing

Low leaves me scratching my head a little, as I'm unable to measure the PWM frequency, which is rather unusual. I'm guessing that the frequency used is too high for my testing method. As you can imagine, I can't see any signs of PWM with my eyes.

Building my first couple of drop-ins has been so much fun, I definitely recommend it to those that haven't done so.

I now have a neutral tinted (T6-3C) C8 and a cool white (T6 1A) C8 with will spaced modes, no flashes, moonlight mode with crazy runtimes and I am able to use all 3 modes without the annoying strobing affects of poorly implemented PWM, the likes of which is found in so many budget lights/drop-ins.

I plan to write up a more in depth write up soon, but this is all for now. Smile

I wear my sunglasses at night.

Smelly
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Is there any way to disable the modes on these drivers and make them single mode only?

The reason I ask is to use one in a light for a gun and obviously you do not want to be sending SOS messages to your quarry.

weiser
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dthrckt wrote:

and, as for pwm - i must be the luckiest budget light guy, w/ respect to pwm - i have to try to notice it and it doesn't bother me (though, I'm sure I haven't seen the worst stuff that's out there...)

 

I am absolutely with you on that one. I really have to work hard to notice any modest PWM. Besides, I think my hands are shakier than what the average PWM will produce (and they're really not that shaky) so it's a moot point anyway! haha

DrJones
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Smelly: You could solder a small wire from the mode controller's VCC pin to it's PWM pin, then it'll be just single mode.

Smelly
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DrJones wrote:

Smelly: You could solder a small wire from the mode controller's VCC pin to it's PWM pin, then it'll be just single mode.

Hi Doc

Many thanks for that. Can you point me in the right direction to identify these pins?

E1320
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DrJones wrote:

E1320 said:

Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers. 

Are you sure it's the same board? It seems to have a quite different pin layout; others said so, too. 
Or did you refer to the PIC version of the NANJG105(A)?
Can you take a photo of the driver?

I am very sorry I was mistaken. I had the new Shiningbeam driver which is different from the old Nanjg 105C. I was so excited that the reflash worked I never looked close enough to determine there is in fact another new driver on the market.

The driver pictured is the one I reflashed all the old equipment works on it.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

Hikelite
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This one is the so called Nanjg (ROHS) 106

Trancersteve
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Beamshots with this driver in an Ultrafire C8 host? Go on then!

Ultrafire C8 - KD8x7135 - XM-L T6-1A
Ultrafire C8 - KD8x7135 - XM-L T6-3C


Lowest brightness - KD8x7135-C8- XM-L Cool White, KD8x7135-C8- XM-L Neutral White, Zebralight SC600w


High mode

F/8 2 seconds ISO: 400



Comparison shots




I wear my sunglasses at night.

DrJones
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@Smelly: Look at the picture in the first post, locate the big 8-pin chip, top row of 4 pins. The PWM pin is the second from left, the VCC pin should be the rightmost pin (I don't have that driver, so I'm not completely sure, I judged from images). It should be OK to add a big blob of solder over the three right pins (PWM pin, VCC pin and the one between them) - as long as you don't have any of those mode group pads solder-bridged on the other side. 

Smelly
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DrJones wrote:

@Smelly: Look at the picture in the first post, locate the big 8-pin chip, top row of 4 pins. The PWM pin is the second from left, the VCC pin should be the rightmost pin (I don't have that driver, so I'm not completely sure, I judged from images). It should be OK to add a big blob of solder over the three right pins (PWM pin, VCC pin and the one between them) - as long as you don't have any of those mode group pads solder-bridged on the other side. 

Many thanks Doc.

Vectrex
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Mousover version:

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Tony Hanna wrote:

Madi05 wrote:
Tony Hanna wrote:

Has anybody tried making a sandwich with these drivers? I'd like to make a 3 board sandwich with the 3A version and I was wondering if a single mcu would handle all 24 of the 7135s?

Thanks,

Tony

Wouldn't a 2 board sandwich work better for our 26650trple XML lights?

Probably. Smile

I'm just exploring options. Right now I'm running mine basically DD using the UF XM-L P60 driver and according to my meter with 10ga leads it pulls around 12A (4A per emitter) at startup off of a fresh imr. I figured 9A from a 3 board sandwich would make for a nice "wow" or turbo mode leaving medium and low for normal use. Though I guess I'd be better off to keep it below 2C from a 4000mah cell so it's not limited to running imr. Maybe a 2 board sandwich with some extra 7135s to push it closer to 8A on high? Anyhow, I was just curious if there is a limit to how many 7135s a single mcu can handle if I remove the mcu from the other board and slave the "dummy" board to the board with the mcu?

Thanks,

Tony

 

Tony, I've done a four-stack with these KD V2 3040mA boards to independently regulate each of 4 XMLs, and the MCU was able to control all 32 chips just fine.  Just make sure that you remove absolutely everything but the 7135 chips from the slave boards.  If you're using XMLs, which are pretty low Vf compared to other LEDs, you'll want to stick to the Vin range of paralleled Li-Ion cells to avoid the stacked drivers from over heating.  Even 4.8V from 4*NiMH cells can quickly become too much when you're driving XMLs from a stack of these.

 

By the way, I love the map-light / moonlight low mode on these.  It's why they're my new favorite driver.

 

pounder
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just thought i'd mention it..kd will change the low from moonlight to 50ma if you email them..

p0708
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hi all,
I would like any advice.

I'm new to modding lights.
I got the KD 8*7135 3040mah driver,when I solder it to a Xm-l emitter, I end up getting only 1 mode although I did not bridge any of the S1-S4 points. By default it should be 6 or 7 modes.
Any idea what am I doing wrong? I have followed the KD instruction sheet  to solder accordingly. 
Appreciate your help greatly.


philip

brted
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Is the reflector in place? Sometimes the metal in the reflector can cause a short (should have an isolation disk over the LED). I usually just check the pill and LED with the battery first, before putting it in a host. Also check your soldering with a magnifying lens to make sure you didn't overdo it anwhere and that no wires are crossed. If you have a DMM you can do some continuity checks.

garrybunk
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p0708 wrote:

hi all,
I would like any advice.

I'm new to modding lights.
I got the KD 8*7135 3040mah driver,when I solder it to a Xm-l emitter, I end up getting only 1 mode although I did not bridge any of the S1-S4 points. By default it should be 6 or 7 modes.
Any idea what am I doing wrong? I have followed the KD instruction sheet  to solder accordingly. 
Appreciate your help greatly.


philip

See this post where I ran into a similar problem with the older 1.4A driver.  It didn't look like I shorted it, but it must have been since it fixed my problem.

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

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Ian2381
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Received the KD 7135 V2 3040 driver and really happy with it.

Made a P60 dropin with it using a NW XML emitter.

Just done a runtime test on low and here's my result

AW 3100mah battery

Starting Voltage: 3.83v

Ending Voltage: 3.79v

Duration: 1Day (exactly 24hrs)

Could anyone explain what to expect(Runtime on low) on a fully charge 3100mah batteries?

E1320
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p0708 wrote:

hi all,
I would like any advice.

I'm new to modding lights.
I got the KD 8*7135 3040mah driver,when I solder it to a Xm-l emitter, I end up getting only 1 mode although I did not bridge any of the S1-S4 points. By default it should be 6 or 7 modes.
Any idea what am I doing wrong? I have followed the KD instruction sheet  to solder accordingly. 
Appreciate your help greatly.


philip

This happens to me all the time. The ground wire is shorted someplace usually to the outer ring were the ground wire connects. Try scraping the solder away between the ground wire connection and the outer ring and your modes should come back if not it's probably shorting to the reflector at the emitter connection.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

viktori
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pounder wrote:

just thought i'd mention it..kd will change the low from moonlight to 50ma if you email them..

I just ordered a completely custom modes driver. Almost nothing of the original modes remained in my spec.

At first they told me I'll have to make a 500pcs order. I asked if I can have at least 2 sets of modes custom and said I'd buy 5-10pcs. They told me that they can make my full custom modes version (and quoted it exactly) if I just buy 5 to 10 pieces and send order number.

Paid 5pcs today, sent the order number, they replied 1 hour later (actual e-mail reply to the same conversation) and said that my order is being processed.

Looks good so far. I'll send updates on how this goes. Smile

Viktor

This is my flashlight collection.

weiser
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How about updating us NOW on the modes you requested 

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weiser701 wrote:

How about updating us NOW on the modes you requested 

+1

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

viktori
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Do you really want to get your hopes up and then get disappointed when I get the regular driver? Big Smile

This is my flashlight collection.

viktori
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Hey!

I didn't say no, did I? Smile

 

Here is a quote from Kural.

 

Quote:

Hi friend,

 

We can help you modify the driver as below:

 

XXX 3040mA 1500mA 500mA 150mA 30mA 5mA 10Hz 2Hz Beacon1 Beacon2

OXX 5mA 30mA 150mA 500mA 1000mA 3040mA 10Hz 2Hz Beacon1 Beacon2

OOX 3040mA 1500mA 500mA 150mA 30mA 5mA

OOO 5mA 30mA 150mA 500mA 1500mA 3040mA

XOO 3040mA 750mA 200mA 50mA

XXO 50mA 200mA 750mA 3040mA

OXO 3040mA 1000mA

XOX 3040mA 1000mA 2Hz

 

Beacon1 is 10sec off, 1sec on

Beacon2 is 10sec off, 1sec 3Hz strobe

 

You can just buy 5 pieces or 10 pieces is okay, please make a order on http://www.kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S020073

 

After you paid, please send your order number to me and let me arrange it.

 

Now, I have no idea if anyone else should order custom as well. I did tell them that if all goes well I'd be telling my friends and they will get more orders.

I'm the crash test dummy again. If anyone orders, please tell me about it. Perhaps PM me and I'll tell you my order number so you can quote it if you want the same thing.

Viktor

This is my flashlight collection.

Langcjl
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Beacon2 is sweet. I would love that.

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

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dthrckt wrote:

before I got an iron w/ small tip I would do tiny stuff by stripping more of the wire, putting a little blob of solder on the end of it, putting that in place and then holding the iron onto the wire as close as i could get to the blob...

and, as for pwm - i must be the luckiest budget light guy, w/ respect to pwm - i have to try to notice it and it doesn't bother me (though, I'm sure I haven't seen the worst stuff that's out there...)

What I do is grind or file the tip down to a longer narrower point with a slight curve or hook  and retin it. This allows me to get in around the other chips. A magnifying lamp REALLY helps. 

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Jeansy wrote:

Thanks guys, I'm not worried about giving it a try with the soldering iron and I quite like the user selectable modes so I'll give it a go.

 

Hooray for you. The difference between having and knowing how is doing. 

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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For those with a too large solder iron: wind some copper wire around the tip.

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