The 6th Annual BLF / Old Lumens - Handmade - MtnDon's Entry (fini)

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MtnDon
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CRX wrote:
Tried to tell you… Big Smile

I missed it I guess………….. Sad

MtnDon
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Ah, well, if you recall the error I made in post #63, that error has saved the day. Made the present task a little easier at least. The extra hole I made back there was barely hidden by the assembled bottom plate. A little use of the carving knife exposed it; I enlarged it and managed to wiggle a test pair of wires through. I can work with that.

I gave the parts the first 2 light coats of clear coat. In the first image, you can see my left hand in action. There is still detail work to be done, but the non-clear coated wood picks up dust that shows and is difficult to wipe clean, so I did a sealer coat before continuing with the details.

You may notice a slight bluish cast here or there on the black stained wood. If you do, that is from the still wet spray finish. It dries completely clear so that color cast disappears.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
That awkward moment when a grown man posts a picture of himself vigorously rubbing his wood.

How do you think man made fire!!??

vwpieces
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Excellent work Don. love it

MtnDon
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How are the screen panels to be secured into the openings in the skeleton? There is a bottom and a top pin. Pins are cut from paneling nails, partly because they were already black, I had them on hand and they were a suitable size. The bottom pin is pictured below, installed in the lower plate edge. The nail was cut to length then pressed in a tight fit hole from the bottom and a drop of cyanoacrylate glue was applied. A mating hole was drilled in the lower edge of the screen frame.

A similar thing is used at the top. Here the pin is removable though.

To lock the screen frame in place, the lower edge is lowered into place over the lower locating pin. The frame is then tilted back into place and the upper pin pressed into place. The panel nails have a deformed, sort of knurled, shank. They are a friction fit in the holes. The lower end protrudes enough to be able to press up on the end and make it easier to grasp the top end if there is a need to remove the frame for any reason.

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It’s your light. But I would cut those nail ends a little more. Maybe take off half of what is still sticking through, leaving a tiny bump that won’t be noticed as much, but still works to push the nail head up. Just a thought. Everything looks good though. I really like the Ebony stain there. Oh wait, I’ve already said that before. Silly

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

MtnDon
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I may trim the upper pins a little. The panels should not need to be removed much once the lantern is completed. Even if one would need to use the flat edge of a screwdriver tip to press up it would be okay. Fortunately they are easy to remove and grind at present.

More…..

The shoji paper is to be affixed to the screen frames using genuine Jaspanese shoji double sided tape.

The package has complete easy to read instructions on the reverse side

Fortunately, I am fluent in reading Japanese drawings. Wink Facepalm

Here’s the first step in photo pictorial form. One short edge (the frame bottom) receives the first strip of double stick tape. Then each of the 4 long strips has tape applied. The protective release paper is left on for now.

Here’s a shot of the completed first step. Just to keep everyone on their toes the frame has been flipped. The edge on the left is the bottom of the screen frame

The bottom strip of protective release paper was removed and the edge of the precut shoji paper was applied. The paper was then rolled up towards the stuck down edge.

The four long strips of tape then had the release paper pulled up. Then strips of double stick tape were applied to the 3 remaining frame members across the width of the screen frame.

Then all the release papers were removed, taking care to keep the paper rolled up.

The paper was then rolled out bit by bit while pressing the paper to the tape. Here’s frame one with the paper applied, viewed from the front side.

One down, three to go….

gchart
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That finished frame is looking great! Thumbs Up

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Nice!

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

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I can see this will look great, especially with the contrasting frame & paper, even when off Thumbs Up

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Just had time tonight to catch up on all of the builds. I can’t wait to see this one completed Thumbs Up

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I am thoroughly enjoying watching this project. Thumbs Up

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

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I finished up the 3 other panels this afternoon. Here’s a progress shot.

Next the electrics…. But it may be a couple of days before I get there.

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With such a beautiful contrast, it already looks lit up. Cool

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

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So beautiful!

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I hope this doesn’t offend but it kinda reminds me of the tardis. Not that that’s a bad thing Smile

  

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Funny

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I changed the driver from the original shown It is also a nanjg with 4 × 7135’s but has a custom set of 5 modes. 6%, 15%, 30%, 50% and 100%.

Here is the 4”× 4” upper copper plate that is positioned on the underside of the upper wood plate. The driver is to be cemented to the copper plate. I tried to be careful to solder the wires to the driver flat enough so there was no danger of shorting either wire against the copper plate. To ensure no electrical contact I positioned a couple of pieces of Kaptan tape where the connections were soldered to the driver. Then I used arctic alumina to cement the driver in place.

Copper plare screwed to the upper wood plate with brass screws. Led mount and driver installed and wired. The positive and negative wires from the lower section to the upper section run along inside faces of one of the corner stiles. They are fixed in place with small drops of cyanoacrylate.

Something happened to the on-off switch between the last test and installation in the stile. It would no longer turn on when pressed. I’m not sure what happened; maybe some cyanoacrylate seeped inside? No real idea. But I had to dig it out of it’s nice neat hole. I wedged the new switch in place with a couple of tiny wood shims. Then I made a cover plate from a 5/64” thick piece of carbon fiber left over from building RC models.

Here’s the view looking straight on to the underside of the bottom wood plate. The USB plug is located at the upper side in the picture. The red/silver board is the TP5000 charger. The charge/full indicator LED is seen to the right. Next down that side is the momentary contact switch to activate the voltmeter and below it is the voltmeter. The various wires are connected and shrink tubed in the 1” diamter drilled recess. The plug is for the battery.

I made a heatsink from a scrap of copper sheet and cemented it to the pad on the TP5000 charger.

The charger heatsink protrudes through a slot in the bottom cover. There is not a lot of heat; it is only a 1 amp charger. I figure this should ensure the charger will not overheat. There are two cover plates on the bottom. The battery cover is not installed in the next photo. The 3000 mAh LiPo battery is in place.

The next series of images shows the voltmeter read out with the button pressed. Then the indicator led showing red for “charging” and green for “charge completed”.

This next image was taken in a darkened room. Yes, it works!!

A view of the lantern with copper discs and hanger hoop installed….

Similar view but with the led illuminated…

MtnDon
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I guess my Shoji style lantern is completed. Though I do have some felt pads I need to affix to the bottoms of the 4 corner posts. I did shorten the screen panel retaining nails enough so they protrude just enough to be able to push the nasil pins up a sufficient amount to enable removal.

I plan to re-do some photos as I see dust and dirt here and there. I was rather excited to get it all together and have it work and neglected to clean and polish before shooting and posting images.

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Looks pretty awesome from here Cool Plus onboard voltmeter, very nice Star

  

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It’s beautiful! Nice job! How much you selling those for? Can you have two of them finished for me before Christmas? Oops

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

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Awsome job, Don Thumbs Up

MtnDon wrote:
Something happened to the on-off switch between the last test and installation in the stile. It would no longer turn on when pressed. I’m not sure what happened; maybe some cyanoacrylate seeped inside?

My bet is on the glue – I’ve ruined a few switches with that stuff Oops

Congrats on finishing the build. Beer

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That is a functioning work of art MD. I dip me hat to your skills and abilities to make it all work. Well done. I’ve pmed you my mailing address. Love

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

gchart
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Looks amazing!

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A piece of art! I particularly like the visible mix of classic design and modern technique like the voltmeter.

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Knew it would look great either on or off Smile Thumbs Up

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I’m running an operating temperature test this AM. I ran the light on Hi (1.4 amps to the Nichia 219C emitter. The copper pill the l=mcpcb is fixed to settled in at 102F (39 C) with the external copper plates at 85 F (29 C) in a room with an ambient temperature of 70 F (21 C). I also had the charger plugged with the light turned on; the copper fin attached to the charger never warmed to more than a degree or two above room ambient. I removed the bottom cover after the 60-minute test run and the battery was the same temperature as the wood lantern bottom, just a degree above room temperature.

Next will be a runtime test. Later tonight maybe.

MtnDon
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Changed my avatar; Smile does that confuse anyone???

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Its about time the Tardis had a makeover. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

shirnask
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good one

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