Sofirn SP36, impressions of a sample

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white7561
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Tom E wrote:

white7561 wrote:
Tom E wrote:

They shouldn’t trip – no way you can get 6A or above out of these in the SP36.


i hope it wouldn’t trip. anyways. whats the estimated lumens on turbo for 3 18650B? thanks eh

All I have is old 18650B’s, well, because they are an old cell, but even new ones should not perform well in this light, add the protection circuit and it gets worse. I’d guess ~4K lumens, maybe less. Actually that’s the good thing - using low capability cells in a light like less produces what you want – less amps, the driver adapts to the resistance of the cells. There’s not a straight 1:1 correlation for amps to lumens. Reducing amps from 18A to 12A won’t be a 33% drop in lumens, but less, maybe 25-30%. The higher the amps the less efficient these LED’s become.


My math and guess may be off a bit here. Looks like djozz measured 4900 lumens, so ~4K may be close.


You could also add resistance by using thinner and/or longer LED wires.

Now I’m starting to wonder if I need to buy myself some 30Q. Will it work just fine? The flat one? I’ve searched everywhere and I can’t find the pin top here. If I use 30Q it should be able to go to max lumens right?

Tom E
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You have to use cells with batt+ contact surface raises, however you get there.

30Q's are great all around - price&performance, and available in BT's from a few sources. I like 35E's for their higher capacity and decent performance, not as good as 30Q's but surprising good in a Q8.

VTC6's will perform slightly better (usually), and of course the 25S and VTC5D are probably the highest performing 18650 cells around.

To get a slight bump in performance, we've been solder blob'ing (boob job) flat tops - I've measured slightly better performance than the add-on button tops, depends on the quality of the BT's - it varies.

 

So, my hot setup is solder blob VTC5D's (Vapcell branded), but I also got some 25S's but don't think I solder blob'ed enough to try in a Q8.

white7561
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I guess I’ll wait until it came. Then use my 18650B protected. If it works nicely on turbo. I’ll prob gonna stay and just use it. That way I could prob be able to set the turbo throttling to 7minutes. Since it’s not gonna be that hot .. if it trips. Prob I’ll just remove the PCB’s from the batteries. It should work fine yeah? Sorry for nooby questions. It’s just I’m new to all this hehe

Tom E
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I dunno if you are new to Liion batts, but removing the PC is not so simple - need wrappers, all depends on exactly how it's installed, etc.

white7561
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It seems like simple enough (YouTube has peeps removing the PCB from 19650B’s) . Just basically remove it . It should be fine. Since we still have the green wrapper thingy inside the plastic wrapper that wrapped the PCB. Although it should be fine right ?

Tom E
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white7561 wrote:
It seems like simple enough (YouTube has peeps removing the PCB from 19650B's) . Just basically remove it . It should be fine. Since we still have the green wrapper thingy inside the plastic wrapper that wrapped the PCB. Although it should be fine right ?

Dunno. I've only removed the entire set of stuff, but porbably is simpler way - if the vid looks good, probably ok.

white7561
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Yeah. I meant the battery itself. It should be fine right? Tho I hope I don’t need to remove those PCBs because they’re really nice hahaha

BlueSwordM
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You live in the US right?

Here are the steps necessary:

1. Remove the protection circuit and wrap to get a bare cell.

2. Get these 18650 heatshrink wraps:
https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/pvc-batt...

3. Rewrap them inside. Use a heat source to make them smaller, and voilà! You’ve got a rewrapped NCR18650B.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

white7561
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no i live in Indonesia haha. anyways. do i need to rewrap it ? since you know … it still has the green thingy stuck to the bare metal on the battery. so it should be fine right?

BlueSwordM
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Just wrap the bare metal with transparent tape if you really want to remove it.

Actually, just don’t remove the protection circuit.

The Sofirn SP36 will still be much brighter than any light you’ve got at 4000 lumens, even with protected NCR18650Bs.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

white7561
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yeah … i wont remove the PCB’s if the light doesnt trip the PCB’s. but if it trips it. gonna need to remove them PCB’s i guess. what i meant by “is it gonna be just fine ?” is… will the battery be fine? like i guess it should be able to sustain 7-10amps just fine right?

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I don't mean to be rude at all, so please don't feel offended but maybe this whole "PCB removal" topic should be discussed separately. We've been talking about the suitability of NCR18650Bs for two pages now and I have the impression we've got stuck here and lost focus on the actual flashlight.

white7561
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Yeah I understand. Sorry for spamming the thread with batteries and PCBs . Anyways. Regarding the flashlight. How is it? Does it has good battery life on turbo? And how’s the heat management? It’s good??

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white7561 wrote:
Anyways. Regarding the flashlight. How is it? Does it has good battery life on turbo? And how’s the heat management? It’s good??

The first few pages of this thread provide a lot of information. Djozz posted pretty detailed info in the first few pages, and I filled in a little more data on pages 4 and 5. Heat management info is included.

white7561
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Thanks!!

white7561
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oh also. just making sure before i use unprotected cells later when it arrives… this flashlight have all protections right? low voltage protection, overcharge protection (type c) etc? thanks. also .its weird. i’ve done some research on the differences between the protected and unprotected NCR18650B . it seems like the protected one has much more sag in voltage than the unprotected one.. huh. interesting.

edit : the difference is about 0.1-0.2volt on 5A . huh. i wonder if it’s effects on lumens output is big or even noticable…

Tom E
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Again, depends on the cell's protection circuit and all PC's are provided by after market vendors, not the battery manufacturers so there is great variance out there. 

If you bought them from a source with no specs on the PC and relatively cheap, then probably they are the worse and higher resistance/voltage drop.

again, see this page: https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/protected-panasonic-sanyo-ncr18650ga-button-top?variant=12534255236

See the details? Quite comprehensive - a vendor that knows, and he's got great support. Some of the name brand cells (higher end flashlight makers) have protected circuits that are above 10 amps now, but the cells will be about $15 each or so.

white7561
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huh i see. anyways 0.1-0.2 volts. is it enough to like reduce the brightness by 500lumens?

Tom E
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white7561 wrote:
huh i see. anyways 0.1-0.2 volts. is it enough to like reduce the brightness by 500lumens?

Dunno off hand, possibility. Small voltage results is significant results for amps.

white7561
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ahh i see. okay i think its better to just remove the pcb. it should be much better. also . just to make sure. SP36 has all the protection needed right? the low voltage . overcharge (type c) etc? thanks for answering my nooby questions hehe

Tom E
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white7561 wrote:
ahh i see. okay i think its better to just remove the pcb. it should be much better. also . just to make sure. SP36 has all the protection needed right? the low voltage . overcharge (type c) etc? thanks for answering my nooby questions hehe

Of course low voltage protection (LVP), but I never heard of overcharge (type c) in a flashlight - wut is that?

Ohh, you mean for the charging circuitry - I know nothing about it. Even though I wrote the firmware, I've had 0 involvement in this product, 0 contact with Sofirn about it.

I ordered a SP36 from the Ali store, like everyone else, paid $52.95 with a small discount (forgot from where), and am waiting like forever for a tracking update - last update from Dec 5th.

white7561
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Wrong choices of words haha. Basically when it’s full it’ll stop charging. It should be implemented . Dumb me for asking haha. Btw just searched for 30q pin top etc and nada… No results in my country’s shops . Oh also. There used to be pin top 10A protected GA here. Idk where it’s gone. Now sellers just sell the flat top ones. I was thinking if they still sell em. I can just remove the PCB and I’ll get unprotected button top. But yeah no go. I don’t want to go to the solder route because I’m not good at it and I don’t know if the added resistance is worth it. Anyways thanks for answering Smile

white7561
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Wait what? I bought it a week ago (I think) it’s been shipped and the tracking changed to departed country of origin. So it should be on the way here.

lotrbfme
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my SP36 is arriving soon. What 30Qs do I need to buy: button top or flat top?

Thanks in advance.

white7561
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button top Big Smile

PBWilson
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Oh, you’re gonna like it!

lotrbfme
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Thank you!

white7561
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My Sofirn is coming very soon haha. It has arrived at my country’s post. But it will probably take some time since it’s near the new year.. btw I bought myself some VTC6 haha. No button top. So I just bought myself some 5mm X 2mm neodymium n35 class magnets. I hope its gonna work just fine. I guess I’m gonna store my Pana B’s as spares . If I need more runtime maybe idk. Also any ideas to secure my magnets? I’ve heard people glueing the sides to help secure it in place. Also another question. The magnet shouldn’t add that much resistance eh? Thanks !!

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white7561 wrote:
My Sofirn is coming very soon haha. It has arrived at my country's post. But it will probably take some time since it's near the new year.. btw I bought myself some VTC6 haha. No button top. So I just bought myself some 5mm X 2mm neodymium n35 class magnets. I hope its gonna work just fine. I guess I'm gonna store my Pana B's as spares . If I need more runtime maybe idk. Also any ideas to secure my magnets? I've heard people glueing the sides to help secure it in place. Also another question. The magnet shouldn't add that much resistance eh? Thanks !!

No experience with that. I've solder blob'ing many flat tops and they all work. Magnets and glue? Maybe, magnets should add some resistance but not sure how much effect. Solder blobs add very little resistance, better than button tops.

white7561
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Tom E wrote:

white7561 wrote:
My Sofirn is coming very soon haha. It has arrived at my country’s post. But it will probably take some time since it’s near the new year.. btw I bought myself some VTC6 haha. No button top. So I just bought myself some 5mm X 2mm neodymium n35 class magnets. I hope its gonna work just fine. I guess I’m gonna store my Pana B’s as spares . If I need more runtime maybe idk. Also any ideas to secure my magnets? I’ve heard people glueing the sides to help secure it in place. Also another question. The magnet shouldn’t add that much resistance eh? Thanks !!

No experience with that. I’ve solder blob’ing many flat tops and they all work. Magnets and glue? Maybe, magnets should add some resistance but not sure how much effect. Solder blobs add very little resistance, better than button tops.

Ah I see. I hope it’s still gonna be better than the Pana B’s Silly … I guess these should power the flashlight to the max hahaha Silly

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