It’s a Qx9920 buck controller with a Vfb of 250 mV. Lowering the sense resistance to around 60mR should give you 4A.
There is some overhead as described in p.7 of the datasheet, you’d have to measure C_off for exact values. http://www.dianyuan.com/upload/community/2015/03/27/1427442373-56499.pdf
But I’m not sure if the FET is up to the task, can’t find anything with that marking (00A? OOA?).
Quote:
Maybe this one could be another alternative to the LD25, LD29 (Convoy L2 driver), Neven’s LD4A and the Convoy Biscotti driver with stacked AMCs?
I don’t see the circuitry necessary for true CC as advertised. It’s probably just a buck with the output PWMed.
So if one were to direct drive a dedomed XPG2 S4 2B and then taking the same battery (also fully charged) and direct drive the Osram KW, which would have higher lux?
—
“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”
True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition:
“On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”
The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.
So if one were to direct drive a dedomed XPG2 S4 2B and then taking the same battery (also fully charged) and direct drive the Osram KW, which would have higher lux?
The white flat because it has much lower forward voltage.
Maybe this one could be another alternative to the LD25, LD29 (Convoy L2 driver), Neven’s LD4A and the Convoy Biscotti driver with stacked AMCs?
Hmmm… Very small inductor for a 100µH..
That will probably be a bottle neck, will get hot.
Tiny FETs too.. Could be okay though.
You can slap another R160 sense resistor on top of the R160’s (which are probably parallel) to up the current.
PoS driver. Its sense voltage is ridiculously high, Vsense = Idrive × Rsense = 2.8A × 0.08Ω = 224mV, which is awful. Stand aside…
Cheers
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
How do you know when it shipped? Do you get an email saying it shipped? I only got an email saying that the order is 'complete' 10 days ago, and haven't heard anything since. Hopefully that means it was sent out.
"Completed" means shipped, and if you chose registered mail, tracking number should be also mentioned it that mail.
Ordered 5 of them.4 are immediately going into a (jetbeam T6) with the stock driver.
I’ll post results in this thread in about 2 weeks. Anyone wanna take a guess what 4 OW,s will do in a 80mm ish T6 housing, Lux wise?
I just finished installing a the older Olsen flat black with MTN fet driver running 2P pani/3400 in a astrolux MF02. As far as hot spot intensity goes. It seems more intense then my BLF GT on a white wall 100 yards away. Going bonkers with properly centering this tiny led. Anyone wanna guess what this light will do, lux wise? once i get it properly centered? The MF02 reflecter is a fairly ringy and simply a poor quality reflector. So I’m not expecting anything amazing here.
—
Sometimes being a newb is the best part of a hobbie
So if one were to direct drive a dedomed XPG2 S4 2B and then taking the same battery (also fully charged) and direct drive the Osram KW, which would have higher lux?
The white flat because it has much lower forward voltage.
No… Enderman is not quite right here.
The answer is it depends on used battery. Anything in Samsung INR30Q class is not good for White Flat cause they will pull from 7-8A in DD mode significantly downgrading lux performance.
With White Flat you want to stay somewhere at 5.5-5.8A current draw. So use Sany GA, LGBD1, or any other low current cell that will not pull more than 6A out of emitter.
It depends on how good your heat path is. If your reflow is done well with enough but as little as possible solder, on a DTP board that is thermally well mounted on a good heatsinked flashlight body, then 5.5A to 6A may be the sweetspot. But if everything is less perfect, this led (small die, high heat) is very finicky about that and will have its maximum performance at lower current.
It depends on how good your heat path is. If your reflow is done well with enough but as little as possible solder, on a DTP board that is thermally well mounted on a good heatsinked flashlight body, then 5.5A to 6A may be the sweetspot. But if everything is less perfect, this led (small die, high heat) is very finicky about that and will have its maximum performance at lower current.
Thanks djozz. Is there other test chart done by you or others? I think we should update first post with link or chart.
To me, judging by the graphs i’ve seen, it seems to be the maximum reasonable current.
Above that you hardly gain any output.
It will age the LED faster and mainly more heat will be produced.
Vf will also be higher.
The difference between 850 and 950 Lumen is not worth it i.m.h.o.
To me, judging by the graphs i’ve seen, it seems to be the maximum reasonable current.
Above that you hardly gain any output.
It will age the LED faster and mainly more heat will be produced.
Vf will also be higher.
The difference between 800 and 900 Lumen is not worth it i.m.h.o.
Except that this led is exclusively about throw. It has no great tint, a low CRI, a bad efficiency compared to bigger die leds. The reason to use this led is throw, also that last bit, and you want to be as close to max as you can without killing the led.
To me, judging by the graphs i’ve seen, it seems to be the maximum reasonable current.
Above that you hardly gain any output.
It will age the LED faster and mainly more heat will be produced.
Vf will also be higher.
The difference between 800 and 900 Lumen is not worth it i.m.h.o.
Except that this led is exclusively about throw. It has no great tint, a low CRI, a bad efficiency compared to bigger die leds. The reason to use this led is throw, also that last bit, and you want to be as close to max as you can without killing the led.
You should only do this if you only use it for a few seconds at a time or the flashlight is very large and never gets warm/hot. As soon as the flashlight becomes warm, the LED will overheat when driven at it’s absolute max (who’s was measured when cool).
In my kind of led-test the led was already pretty much warmed up when arriving at max. But my tests give no clue whatsoever about the lifetime of the led.
I get the dragster attitude, i get the fun of that, but it’s just not my attitude.
I want my lights to be able to work on full output for a long time, and if possible, with decent efficiency.
With this low Vf of the ‘White Flat’ this can be achieved while still having amazing throw.
I will not win the light meter candela race, but i wonder if the difference between 850 and 950 Lumen will be noticeable by human eyes.
In fact, i’m thinking about running them at 4 Amperes maximum actually.
It will have to wait for now though, i’m busy with the BLF scratch build.
Leave them alone burning down their white flats Jerommel, some folks here seem to be adamant devotees of their MOSFET DD misdrivers.
Cheers
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
So if one were to direct drive a dedomed XPG2 S4 2B and then taking the same battery (also fully charged) and direct drive the Osram KW, which would have higher lux?
The white flat because it has much lower forward voltage.
No… Enderman is not quite right here.
The answer is it depends on used battery. Anything in Samsung INR30Q class is not good for White Flat cause they will pull from 7-8A in DD mode significantly downgrading lux performance.
With White Flat you want to stay somewhere at 5.5-5.8A current draw. So use Sany GA, LGBD1, or any other low current cell that will not pull more than 6A out of emitter.
Well this is watt I was alluding to in this intently “loaded” question and I was waiting to see watt replies if any it generated. Yes the latest version Osram KW has higher lux than XPG2 but with caveats. And they are significant caveats in an ever more popular FET driver world. Osram may improve the KW’s current handling abilities in the future and when that happens well it’ll definitely without caveats be The King.
Past certain amps the dedomed XPG2 S4 2B today is still King IMO. Butt let’s face it. LEP technology currently lux surpasses all LEDs out there with all 1:1 input factors considered. And the thing is it still has room to improve.
—
“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”
True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition:
“On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”
The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.
Leave them alone burning down their white flats Jerommel, some folks here seem to be adamant devotees of their MOSFET DD misdrivers.
Cheers
LOL anti MOFSET propaganda
Guys this is not Black Flat it is White Flat… Seems like that Osram added something like wire or two to improve properties.
I see no problem in using it in FET DD setup but of course with low current cell .
And Barkuti. I vote for MOFSET DD Setup with Sanyo GA 18650 cell
That configuration will run 5.5A (at 4.2V) > 3.3A(at 3.4V).
New series of Osram seems to be very robust emitters. Soon you’ll see that there are emitters that can pull over 12A without burning led or angry blue
So yes i vote for FET DD configuration but with low current cell (there are plenty of them on the market). No need for spring bypasses any more, no need for stacking chips, so it is just a cheap – budget configuration at the place where Frugal meets flashlights
Nothing against linear or buck/boost drivers also. Just bring them on…
After all I use linear driver as a host for my nice little diy 1.5$ Djozz driver. Some guys like regulation while some really don’t have any need for that.
Barkuti this pic is just for you (I am preparing whole FET driver army )
Has anybody else in the US got their White Flats from LED4power yet?
It’s a Qx9920 buck controller with a Vfb of 250 mV. Lowering the sense resistance to around 60mR should give you 4A.
There is some overhead as described in p.7 of the datasheet, you’d have to measure C_off for exact values.
http://www.dianyuan.com/upload/community/2015/03/27/1427442373-56499.pdf
But I’m not sure if the FET is up to the task, can’t find anything with that marking (00A? OOA?).
I don’t see the circuitry necessary for true CC as advertised. It’s probably just a buck with the output PWMed.
I was wrong. SN6×-2X is using a 6A LD-2 driver. I’m sorry.
I am reading 5,2A at the tail (left)
4A LD-2 driver was used in a Tiablo A10G. With white flat at 3,8A I get 282KCd (right)
Just ordered one for my Uniquefire 1405. Will post results in a month
when it gets here.
Shipping time within EU is few days (from 1-10 in 95% of cases), depending on country and their post offices/customs, definitely not a month.
led4power.com
Mine shipped 10/22. I’m not nearly antsy yet.
So used to shipping from China. I might forget I ordered them. Ooh surprise!!! Lol
How do you know when it shipped?
Do you get an email saying it shipped?
I only got an email saying that the order is ‘complete’ 10 days ago, and haven’t heard anything since.
Hopefully that means it was sent out.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
Yeah same here just the order complete email. As long as it shipped I’m cool.
So if one were to direct drive a dedomed XPG2 S4 2B and then taking the same battery (also fully charged) and direct drive the Osram KW, which would have higher lux?
“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”
True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”
The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
The white flat because it has much lower forward voltage.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
Hmmm… Very small inductor for a 100µH..
That will probably be a bottle neck, will get hot.
Tiny FETs too.. Could be okay though.
You can slap another R160 sense resistor on top of the R160’s (which are probably parallel) to up the current.
PoS driver. Its sense voltage is ridiculously high, Vsense = Idrive × Rsense = 2.8A × 0.08Ω = 224mV, which is awful. Stand aside…
Cheers
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
"Completed" means shipped, and if you chose registered mail, tracking number should be also mentioned it that mail.
led4power.com
Ordered 5 of them.4 are immediately going into a (jetbeam T6) with the stock driver.
I’ll post results in this thread in about 2 weeks. Anyone wanna take a guess what 4 OW,s will do in a 80mm ish T6 housing, Lux wise?
I just finished installing a the older Olsen flat black with MTN fet driver running 2P pani/3400 in a astrolux MF02. As far as hot spot intensity goes. It seems more intense then my BLF GT on a white wall 100 yards away. Going bonkers with properly centering this tiny led. Anyone wanna guess what this light will do, lux wise? once i get it properly centered? The MF02 reflecter is a fairly ringy and simply a poor quality reflector. So I’m not expecting anything amazing here.
Sometimes being a newb is the best part of a hobbie
No… Enderman is not quite right here.
The answer is it depends on used battery. Anything in Samsung INR30Q class is not good for White Flat cause they will pull from 7-8A in DD mode significantly downgrading lux performance.
With White Flat you want to stay somewhere at 5.5-5.8A current draw. So use Sany GA, LGBD1, or any other low current cell that will not pull more than 6A out of emitter.
I thought 4.5A is the sweetest?
It depends on how good your heat path is. If your reflow is done well with enough but as little as possible solder, on a DTP board that is thermally well mounted on a good heatsinked flashlight body, then 5.5A to 6A may be the sweetspot. But if everything is less perfect, this led (small die, high heat) is very finicky about that and will have its maximum performance at lower current.
link to djozz tests
bought 3 of these leds from Led4power
put one in my 2016 cometa
meters went from 800 to 1216m, it’s like a laser!!
measured 4.5A at the tail
Thanks djozz. Is there other test chart done by you or others? I think we should update first post with link or chart.
I only know of my own test and led4power’s test, and they are both in the OP.
link to djozz tests
To me, judging by the graphs i’ve seen, it seems to be the maximum reasonable current.
Above that you hardly gain any output.
It will age the LED faster and mainly more heat will be produced.
Vf will also be higher.
The difference between 850 and 950 Lumen is not worth it i.m.h.o.
Except that this led is exclusively about throw. It has no great tint, a low CRI, a bad efficiency compared to bigger die leds. The reason to use this led is throw, also that last bit, and you want to be as close to max as you can without killing the led.
link to djozz tests
You should only do this if you only use it for a few seconds at a time or the flashlight is very large and never gets warm/hot. As soon as the flashlight becomes warm, the LED will overheat when driven at it’s absolute max (who’s was measured when cool).
Project Excalibur - Next Generation LED Thrower (UPDATE 2018-01-15: 1.7Mcd)
Portable Thrower Comparison
In my kind of led-test the led was already pretty much warmed up when arriving at max. But my tests give no clue whatsoever about the lifetime of the led.
link to djozz tests
I get the dragster attitude, i get the fun of that, but it’s just not my attitude.
I want my lights to be able to work on full output for a long time, and if possible, with decent efficiency.
With this low Vf of the ‘White Flat’ this can be achieved while still having amazing throw.
I will not win the light meter candela race, but i wonder if the difference between 850 and 950 Lumen will be noticeable by human eyes.
In fact, i’m thinking about running them at 4 Amperes maximum actually.
It will have to wait for now though, i’m busy with the BLF scratch build.
Leave them alone burning down their white flats Jerommel, some folks here seem to be adamant devotees of their MOSFET DD misdrivers.
Cheers
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Ah thanks!
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
Well this is watt I was alluding to in this intently “loaded” question and I was waiting to see watt replies if any it generated. Yes the latest version Osram KW has higher lux than XPG2 but with caveats. And they are significant caveats in an ever more popular FET driver world. Osram may improve the KW’s current handling abilities in the future and when that happens well it’ll definitely without caveats be The King.
Past certain amps the dedomed XPG2 S4 2B today is still King IMO. Butt let’s face it. LEP technology currently lux surpasses all LEDs out there with all 1:1 input factors considered. And the thing is it still has room to improve.
“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”
True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”
The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.
LOL
anti MOFSET propaganda 
Guys this is not Black Flat it is White Flat… Seems like that Osram added something like wire or two to improve properties.
I see no problem in using it in FET DD setup but of course with low current cell .And Barkuti. I vote for MOFSET DD Setup with Sanyo GA 18650 cell
That configuration will run 5.5A (at 4.2V) > 3.3A(at 3.4V).
New series of Osram seems to be very robust emitters. Soon you’ll see that there are emitters that can pull over 12A without burning led or angry blue
So yes i vote for FET DD configuration but with low current cell (there are plenty of them on the market). No need for spring bypasses any more, no need for stacking chips, so it is just a cheap – budget configuration at the place where Frugal meets flashlights
Nothing against linear or buck/boost drivers also. Just bring them on…
After all I use linear driver as a host for my nice little diy 1.5$ Djozz driver. Some guys like regulation while some really don’t have any need for that.
Barkuti this pic is just for you (I am preparing whole FET driver army
)
Hope you will not hate me now
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