OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

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djozz
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I secured 3 pieces, but am not sure yet where to apply them.

Thanks l4p for making these available Smile

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KevinZA1988 wrote:
This is going straight into my L2. It should centre a lot easier than it's 3030 brothers. With the Luxeon V's, I reamed a 3535 gasket with a 5.5mm drill bit and it fitted perfectly. It should work with this one as well....

Good idea with the drill bit. I'll have to remember that one. I have a very cheap wood reamer I've been using, but it's slow and I have to keep stopping to measure.

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Marc E
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Scallywag wrote:

KevinZA1988 wrote:
This is going straight into my L2. It should centre a lot easier than it’s 3030 brothers. With the Luxeon V’s, I reamed a 3535 gasket with a 5.5mm drill bit and it fitted perfectly. It should work with this one as well….

Good idea with the drill bit. I’ll have to remember that one. I have a very cheap wood reamer I’ve been using, but it’s slow and I have to keep stopping to measure.


How do you guys clamp the gasket to stop it from moving?
contactcr
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Marc E wrote:
How do you guys clamp the gasket to stop it from moving?

My method is not wise but I just hold it in my hand (thumb and index) and do short bursts with small variable cordless drill

Marc E
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contactcr wrote:
Marc E wrote:
How do you guys clamp the gasket to stop it from moving?

My method is not wise but I just hold it in my hand (thumb and index) and do short bursts with small variable cordless drill

Shocked You have stronger and/or more laceration-proof fingers than i do!
contactcr
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Marc E wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Marc E wrote:
How do you guys clamp the gasket to stop it from moving?

My method is not wise but I just hold it in my hand (thumb and index) and do short bursts with small variable cordless drill

Shocked You have stronger and/or more laceration-proof fingers than i do!

I think it might be easier because I use a step bit so it’s only ever taking off a little at a time.

contactcr
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https://maxtoch.com/maxtoch-x-pro-1900m-beam-distance-78mm-head-newest-f...

Looks like Maxtoch, in addition to sourcing green and red “flats” also might have this 4040 LED in their latest thrower now. The text on the chip sure looks similar.

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But proportions are not, the yellow part is 1/3 the length of the package. This looks like 3030, CSLNM1.TG.

djozz
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So using the 4040 version, they may get it at 1 Mcd.

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I’m afraid the distance rating may be as correct as output. Which they state to be 1200 lm.

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I just got an XPro modified by Skylumen using the 2mm Whitey. When driven to only 900 lumens, the reflector in the XPro got 560k lux from the 2mm White. 1mm driven at a reasonable amount should be able to get 800k lux.

contactcr
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twisted raven wrote:
I just got an XPro modified by Skylumen using the 2mm Whitey. When driven to only 900 lumens, the reflector in the XPro got 560k lux from the 2mm White. 1mm driven at a reasonable amount should be able to get 800k lux.

So you did get it! What are your opinions of the light itself?

twisted raven
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The host quality is good. I can only comment on how it feels in hand, looks, and how reflector quality is. Vinh commented on the anodizing being average to good (no chips when he engraved the V54 and Fiat Lux markers on it). He commented on reflector being perfect. I too agree the reflector quality is perfect— I think it’s even better than the Acebeam T21 I have. Vinh commented on thin battery tube walls due to the larger opening for the 21700 cells, but I don’t mind.

The shape of the host itself I find great. Very smooth and ergonomic battery tube, deep fins only where they’re needed, not heavy at all. Things the T21 have on it are: stainless steel bezel, and small amount of anti-roll. The XPro has what looks to be an anti-roll element under its heat fins, but its head is so large that those never touch a surface.

The UI is a little weird. It’s a conventional forward tail clicky, but the driver checks mode memory timing when the light is on, and not off. If I remember correctly, most do it when off. If the light is turned on for 6 seconds or longer, it will retain its last used level. If the light is on for less than 6 seconds, then you turn it off for let’s say an hour, then turn it on again, it will advance to the next output level. In the same fashion, if you turn the light on and leave it on for 6 or more seconds, then rapidly turn it off and on to advance an output level, it will rather stay its last output level. I don’t have any issue with this either, but it seems to be a little quirk. The UI has 3 levels: low, might as well be turbo, and turbo. I think it would have been better to just have two levels, or have the upper two be better spaced. The default UI of the T21 on the other hand I find to just have too many levels.

XPro did not come with a holster which I found a con at first, but it comes with a very, very nice carrying pouch, which is a definite plus.

According to Vinh, the Green 1mm that came in the light wasn’t centered very well, but he didn’t seem to have too much trouble getting the beam tuned with the 2mm White to Fiax Lux standards. I’ve never seen the petals of of a corona be so defined before, it’s almost art. A lot of that probably has to do with the quality of the reflector, and the centering gasket that Maxtoch used for the 1mm Greeney, which perfectly fits the 2mm white and 1mm white. Boost HL and Boost HX would probably be harder to center.

Here’s a pic of the hotspot. Petal shapes are more defined in person. Being that this is the 2mm Whitey, the petals will be longer in one direction and shorter in the other.

contactcr
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Thanks for the detailed post. Maxtoch has several good reflector lights so that’s good to hear this one is no different.

Curious if the light has a pill design or an integrated shelf and what driver size. I have an 8A buck driver Lexel made that would fix your mode problems and max out a 2mm2 white flat. Now that would be “fiat lux” Smile

edit; mine is actually 6V but i’m sure he could make one 3V

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I probably won’t comission Vinh to do another XPro until Boost HX comes out, but I would definitely want to use a proper buck driver for the next one. Unforonately changing drivers on the light requires the led to lose its tuning, so I decided to take the beam quality over output. The good thing is the light has no heat issues whatsoever at 900lumens.

twisted raven
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I bought the new model Maxtoch XPro with the Osram KW CSNM.TG (1mm whitey). Iirc this is one of the only couple of lights on the market that comes stock with such an LED. Maxtoch’s numbers for it are inflated, naturally, but I can compare it to my other Maxtoch XProvn modded by Vinh with the 2mm Whitey (900 lumen, 560kcd), and Acebeam T21vn with Black Flat modded by Vinh (780 lumen, 640kcd.)

Hotspot intensity and assumed throw is longer than the 560kcd of the 2mm Whitey in the same host, and about the same as the T21vn with Black Flat (640kcd). If I had to guess, I’d say the light is being driven to around 700 lumen with 620kcd or so from factory. Emitter is ever so slightly off center, making for unbalanced petals on the corona. I don’t have experience with any reflectors larger than that of the XPro, so I don’t know how they shape the corona of beams, but I can at least say that the reflector on the XPro makes for very nice petals in the corona.

One thing that is troubling me though is the battery compatibility with the XPro host (and this is true for both XPros I have. The hosts do not work with any of the cells I have with the tailcap on. I tried Samsung 50E, with and without tailcap, and no good. Then I tried Sony VTC6 unprotected 18650s, and they work with a talcap bypass, but not with tailcap on. I also tried Acebeam protected 18650s, and they work with tailcap bypass but no tailcap. I don’t know what to make of that. The XProvn I received from Vinh worked fine with the 50Es at first, but has since refused to work with them.

contactcr
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The batteries are probably not making good contact in series. Would need to see the tail springs, retaining rings, driver spring, etc. Not really the thread for this but this is BLF and off topic is our specialty!

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My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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I think it’s the 50E not being good in series. Now that I think about it’s so flat that the contact in the center is almost below the insulated parts on the edge. I’ll try some solder blobs on the 50E. Button top 18650 with Vinh’s tailcap (he added a 2nd longer spring with the 1st) works.

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Weltool T10 and T11 use OSRAM's 1 square mm LED

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67564

 

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This is a re-post from the What did you mod today? thread, where I put some beamshots of a modded Convoy S2 with SMO reflector (vs the previous with OP).

———-

I changed the reflector in my convoy S2 (with S2+ short tube, Led4Power 4-6A driver & spring) and Convoy forward clicky switch) with Osram White Flat 1mm2 ! I liked the beam with the OP reflector, but wanted to try it with SMO.

Here are some pictures, before and after, OP > SMO!


Not sure if this is the best way to show them in gif and side by side, but I hope it works!!

Overall, the beam looks tighter as it should. I need to test it outside yet and see how it performs. Still, this is my “pocket throwerBig Smile

———

I have some doubts for those who installed this led under a small SMO. Is it normal to get some “rings” or at least a “larger corona” between the hotspot and the spill, or do I need to refine the placement of the gasket+reflector to reduce the artifacts?

Thanks in advance Thumbs Up

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Trying to improve the focus is the first thing to do. (a domeless led needs the reflector closer to the board, i.e by thinning the centering ring)

But if that is done well there could be another reason for rings. I put a 1mm2 White Flat in a S8, which uses the same reflector size as the S2. I happened to have 3 SMO reflectors in my reflector box of different sources, bought from Simon, or Fasttech, or recovered from another host that I made into a triple, I don’t know where they came from, but 1 of the 3 behaved significantly better than the other 2, it produced a no ringy beam and had the best throw.

So you may be lucky trying another reflector if you have one around.

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It happened me with Astrolux FT03. White flat 1mm”-s very picky on reflectors. I had two FT03s and one reflector was better with 15% extra kcd than the other.

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djozz wrote:
I put a 1mm2 White Flat in a S8, which uses the same reflector size as the S2. I happened to have 3 SMO reflectors in my reflector box of different sources, bought from Simon, or Fasttech, or recovered from another host that I made into a triple, I don’t know where they came from, but 1 of the 3 behaved significantly better than the other 2, it produced a no ringy beam and had the best throw.

So you may be lucky trying another reflector if you have one around.

Thanks for the answer djozz! I tried it with different reflectors (different height and width), but the one I bought from Simon is actually the best one I have.
I was just wondering if the placement of the led+ gasket would be the ideal in terms of position towards the reflector.

When I look from above, I do see a small “spot” right in the middle of the LED, that I think it indicates that it well centered. But I don’t really know… Maybe it is the shape of the reflector and not the position that originates those rings… Facepalm

djozz
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Yesterday I tried a Boost HL in a Supwildfire host aka “Mitko thrower”.

Unfortunately this was a new version of the Supwildwire with so many dimensions off (even with stock led the beam was crap) that the build turned into some nightmare trying to fix all the issues of the host instead of checking out the new led (for example, to focus the led well it should be positioned inside the reflector, so I had to grind a mm off the underside of the reflector, which again ruined the already minimal clearances that there were already for the ledwires. Spend a huge amount of time re-shaping a centering piece to exact correct, necessary for such a small led in a big reflector! Got it finally done, with L4P LD3 driver at 6A, and with the led almost (but not perfect Sad ) focused and then mangaged to spit in the reflector while blowing it clean Tired . Tried to clean the reflector with water and soap, but I clearly should redo that.
I measured the throw at 400kcd exactly (30 seconds), which is a pretty decent result (I must say that shining it down my square is very satisfactory Smile ) , but I’m sure there is more potential for this led in this reflector size.

Here are some pics:



Facepalm

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Djozz,

A lot of work here and while it is not perfect(crappy host) it looks fairly well… Beer
330 KCD with good spg2s42b are results I got for this light and equivalent in lux performance to B158. So your build indicates that we can expect 400+ kcd results in B158 host as well.

I really don’t know why some of you guys use soapy water for reflector cleaning? Yes I saw that is recommended several times on cpf and blf…
Anyway I would not recommend that to anyone. I would recommend LCD screen cleaning fluid and super fine microfiber cloth… It works equally well for aspheric glass lens cleaning as well.

If reflector has micro aluminum particles inside before applying lcd fluid blow the particles out with air compressor or compressed air.

djozz
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Thanks for the advice for cleaning the reflector l.i. Smile I will give it a go one of these days.

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Lcd cleaning fluids usually have microfiber cloth in package… Don’t use that one cause it is to rough… Leave that one for your LCD monitors…
For reflector use Super fine microfiber cloth for DSLR camera glass/LCD screen cleaning in two steps: Spritz gently reflector/wipe with one superfine microfiber cloth and after that do another step(but without spritzing just wiping after job you done in first step) with second dry superfine microfiber cloth and it will be shinny without any flecks.

That clothes can be reused again when necessary if it will be washed in laundry machine.

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

I really don't know why some of you guys use soapy water for reflector cleaning? Yes …

Heard it, and tried it because every time I've touched a reflector with denatured alcohol Mr ethanol ruined it.

Works good. And albeit it's not essential I think distilled water helps a lot.

 

Smile 

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I didn’t have the time or the opportunity to test my Convoy S2 with the OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG (1mm2) White Flat + SMO reflector before. This weekend I tried it and made some night shots comparing it with another “similar” tube flashlight, a Convoy S2+ with XPL-HI U6-3A and SMO reflector.
My S2 has been shown above, so it needs no further consideration.

I must say one thing: I am really impressed with what this LED can to even in a small SMO reflector and small light! Really impressed!!! I reached real illumination at about 400m!!! With the specs of this little light and reflector I believe it is something, right? Wink (yeah you guys that use big reflectors will say this is an ant dimension, but I still like it Silly )

S2+ on the left >>> S2 with Osram on the right (it will be the same scheme in the sequence to follow, always with the S2 on the right)

@45m and 100m

@201m

@303m

@398m

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