OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

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djozz
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I’m not surprised, the PM1 has an extremely low Vf, lower than anything else (see the OP of this thread) so it will pull every bit of current a battery can provide. You depend on resistances in the system (internal battery resitance, springs, ledwires, FET) to keep the current restrained.

id30209
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djozz wrote:
I’m not surprised, the PM1 has an extremely low Vf, lower than anything else (see the OP of this thread) so it will pull every bit of current a battery can provide. You depend on resistances in the system (internal battery resitance, springs, ledwires, FET) to keep the current restrained.

Thx djozz. I was too lazy to read all the way up but initial look at the first posts revealed what you just said. Will have to use it with protected only which is not bad since they are picking up dust these days.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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id30209 wrote:
djozz wrote:
I’m not surprised, the PM1 has an extremely low Vf, lower than anything else (see the OP of this thread) so it will pull every bit of current a battery can provide. You depend on resistances in the system (internal battery resitance, springs, ledwires, FET) to keep the current restrained.

Thx djozz. I was too lazy to read all the way up but initial look at the first posts revealed what you just said. Will have to use it with protected only which is not bad since they are picking up dust these days.


I dropped a PM1 in my GT Mini, but if I put a 30Q in it, it turns blue on Turbo.
You have to use a lower drain cell, to limit the current at about 8A.
It’s not ideal, a new regulated driver would be way better but hey it’s cheap

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Adjusting firmware so it PWMs the FET should also work. Or adding some resistance.

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Thx guys! 

Well notedcool

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Wow! how did you get the beam so tight?

Tally-ho wrote:
likevvii wrote:

L2 album

Nice work, nice beam !

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Yokiamy wrote:
A quick n dirty beamshot Wink
The trees are 200m away

C8 with OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG (2,8A)

Dammmnnn!! What kind of optics are you using in that thing? it cant be the stock reflector surely?

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The_Fat_Controller wrote:
Yokiamy wrote:
A quick n dirty beamshot Wink
The trees are 200m away

C8 with OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG (2,8A)

Dammmnnn!! What kind of optics are you using in that thing? it cant be the stock reflector surely?

I have the same setup and it sure is the stock reflector. But it looks less like a laserbeam in real life.

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

contactcr
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likevvii’s version actually does look like a laser beam because it’s an aspheric lens

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contactcr wrote:
likevvii’s version actually does look like a laser beam because it’s an aspheric lens

Hes thrown a real spanner in the works because i now cannot decide on using an L2 host or a Jax z1 i was sure the jax was going to be the better choice but now im on the fence again

contactcr
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I have both just do the Z1. Slightly smaller package, less modding and cheaper with already good lens.

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contactcr wrote:
I have both just do the Z1. Slightly smaller package, less modding and cheaper with already good lens.

The z1 looked like the perfect host for a CULNM1.TG… but i wasnt sure if the L2 had an advantage in heat sinking? (i think im just looking for a reason to need both)

contactcr
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The L2 has a pretty good shelf vs big brass pill of Z1. However, you know the L2 mod requires specific $37 lens from marinebeam and 3D printed parts.

The Z1 you only need I think 22mm driver and new LED and mcpcb.

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contactcr wrote:
The L2 has a pretty good shelf vs big brass pill of Z1. However, you know the L2 mod requires specific $37 lens from marinebeam and 3D printed parts.

The Z1 you only need I think 22mm driver and new LED and mcpcb.

Yeah, its got to be the way to go, what driver did you go for?

How does a White flat Z1 stand against something like acebeam w30?

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White Flat Z1 = ~385kcd

The 4040 one might get you to 400kcd.

I had a driver I pulled from a Nightwatch flashlight that is around 4.85-5.0A linear driver, just a bunch of 7135’s. Something like this (I have no experience with this store or product):

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32995993197.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32838161477.html

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I think my signature has a link to some posts about my Z1 build. In general, while it probably doesn’t have as high candela, it is more impressive than my MF02.
Edit: nope, but my post history will. I’m not on a computer right now or I’d find them myself for ya.

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CSLNM1.TG in an Emisar D1S around sunrise with hanging fog.

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Cool pic!
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Liking all the pictures on this page!

The_Fat_Controller, don’t forget you get a flood option with the Z1 Smile If you’re anywhere near Devon i have a Z1 with a white flat you can try.

The_Fat_Controller
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Marc E wrote:
Liking all the pictures on this page!

The_Fat_Controller, don’t forget you get a flood option with the Z1 Smile If you’re anywhere near Devon i have a Z1 with a white flat you can try.

Well I ordered a Z1 to host my precious new emitter in received from Led4power today, Really nicely packed an sealed and the reflow looks expertly done!! , I also ordered the Convoy L6 , what can i say.. I have a problem and banggood baited me with their 30% off promotion..

Anyway I’ve now read this thread start to finish 3-4 times excellent posts from many of you one thing i would really like to know or see is some kind of chart that references emitter lifespan with amps, I note some of you want reliability and some of you want the fastest standing quarter. it would be nice to have even just some estimates of emitter life vs current

For example (Assuming well mounted in a good thermal host)
at stock 3 amps 10,000 hours
at 4 amps
at 5 amps
at 6 amps
at 7 amps (A few seconds)

Unless i’ve missed it that doesnt seem to be covered on here

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The_Fat_Controller wrote:
Well I ordered a Z1 to host my precious new emitter in received from Led4power today, Really nicely packed an sealed and the reflow looks expertly done!! , I also ordered the Convoy L6 , what can i say.. I have a problem and banggood baited me with their 30% off promotion..

Lol, well you can let us know how the two compare.
And by ‘problem’ i assume you mean ‘healthy interest’ Big Smile
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The_Fat_Controller wrote:
Marc E wrote:
Liking all the pictures on this page! The_Fat_Controller, don't forget you get a flood option with the Z1 Smile If you're anywhere near Devon i have a Z1 with a white flat you can try.
Well I ordered a Z1 to host my precious new emitter in received from Led4power today, Really nicely packed an sealed and the reflow looks expertly done!! , I also ordered the Convoy L6 , what can i say.. I have a problem and banggood baited me with their 30% off promotion.. Anyway I've now read this thread start to finish 3-4 times excellent posts from many of you one thing i would really like to know or see is some kind of chart that references emitter lifespan with amps, I note some of you want reliability and some of you want the fastest standing quarter. it would be nice to have even just some estimates of emitter life vs current For example (Assuming well mounted in a good thermal host) at stock 3 amps 10,000 hours at 4 amps at 5 amps at 6 amps at 7 amps (A few seconds) Unless i've missed it that doesnt seem to be covered on here

 

You wont find that anywhere. How is anybody supposed to get that data? We are driving these LEDs outside the official specs. Realistically you will never have problems if you don't go right to the edge. The internal temperature of the LED is the important thing here.

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If you worry about lifespan it just means you don’t have enough lights yet Big Smile

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Quote:
For example (Assuming well mounted in a good thermal host)
at stock 3 amps 10,000 hours
at 4 amps
at 5 amps
at 6 amps
at 7 amps (A few seconds)

Unless i’ve missed it that doesnt seem to be covered on here

I do led testing but not that type and you will never get that data I can tell you. Led failure is a chance proces so the set-up is at least 10 leds per current, so 40 leds for 4 currents, 40 independent current controlled power supply outlets totalling at 800W, continuously burdening my electricity bill for say half a year. And at that is a lifetime measurement on just 1 singel led.

contactcr
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Also, if I had to guess continuous output vs repeatedly turning on/off from cold might be different

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So basically then if you want to have to reliy on the flashlight , like as a survival tool you just want stock 3 amps??

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djozz wrote:
Quote:
For example (Assuming well mounted in a good thermal host)
at stock 3 amps 10,000 hours
at 4 amps
at 5 amps
at 6 amps
at 7 amps (A few seconds)

Unless i’ve missed it that doesnt seem to be covered on here

I do led testing but not that type and you will never get that data I can tell you. Led failure is a chance proces so the set-up is at least 10 leds per current, so 40 leds for 4 currents, 40 independent current controlled power supply outlets totalling at 800W, continuously burdening my electricity bill for say half a year. And at that is a lifetime measurement on just 1 singel led.

Not asking for exact data , an experience based opinion would be fine, if i run a white flat at say 4.5amps is it going to last hours , days , weeks , months , years ? typical based on experience how long does one usually last or is it totally random?

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contactcr wrote:
Also, if I had to guess continuous output vs repeatedly turning on/off from cold might be different

LEDs are very interesting in the power cycle department. Traditionally, incandescents are affected strongly by power cycling and the related thermal expansion/contraction stressing the filament. Flourescents (and compact flourescents) have always fared even worse with power cycling – the 10,000 hour CFL bulbs we all got sold 15 years ago were great for fixtures that were on constantly or at least for long periods at a time and rarely cycled. LEDs themselves don’t care a whole lot about power cycling, especially within rated specs. That’s why LEDs have been used for anything that blinks for as long as it has been practical. In the case of residential LED bulbs, it’s almost always the driving circuit that fails.

But I could see LED power cycling being an issue eventually, especially in above-spec applications and especially with things like bond wires. But the thing the manufacturers seem to care the most about is operating temperature in general, rather than temperature cycling. Might be worth a look into research papers on the subject.

The_Fat_Controller wrote:
Not asking for exact data , an experience based opinion would be fine, if i run a white flat at say 4.5amps is it going to last hours , days , weeks , months , years ? typical based on experience how long does one usually last or is it totally random?

As long as you’re keeping the LED cool enough, I’d expect it to last a while. Many months if not years of continuous use. I’m sure we won’t see the rated 50k or 100k or whatever it is hours, but I’d be surprised if we hit the output degradation threshold sooner than 10k hours. Which reminds me, the way LEDs are typically rated for lifetime isn’t a failure point, but rather a lumen decay issue. When I worked on the retail side of things, the primary bulbs we sold were rated for 80% output after 25,000 hours for “22 years expected life”. I know the % varies depending on who is rating what, but it’s probably usually 75-80%.
contactcr
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The_Fat_Controller wrote:
djozz wrote:
Quote:
For example (Assuming well mounted in a good thermal host)
at stock 3 amps 10,000 hours
at 4 amps
at 5 amps
at 6 amps
at 7 amps (A few seconds)

Unless i’ve missed it that doesnt seem to be covered on here

I do led testing but not that type and you will never get that data I can tell you. Led failure is a chance proces so the set-up is at least 10 leds per current, so 40 leds for 4 currents, 40 independent current controlled power supply outlets totalling at 800W, continuously burdening my electricity bill for say half a year. And at that is a lifetime measurement on just 1 singel led.

Not asking for exact data , an experience based opinion would be fine, if i run a white flat at say 4.5amps is it going to last hours , days , weeks , months , years ? typical based on experience how long does one usually last or is it totally random?

If your re-flow or cooling is inadequate it could be hours. Most of the LEDs that die around here die in hours or after the first few turbo uses. If it survives that and you have good firm contact with heat sink and appropriate cooling it will probably last a lifetime of normal use. You may see some total brightness decrease over time but this is like single digit percent drop over years. Lets just say your switch will probably fail before your LED.

edit: what Scallywag said.

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contactcr wrote:
If your re-flow or cooling is inadequate it could be hours. Most of the LEDs that die around here die in hours or after the first few turbo uses. If it survives that and you have good firm contact with heat sink and appropriate cooling it will probably last a lifetime of normal use. You may see some total brightness decrease over time but this is like single digit percent drop over years. Lets just say your switch will probably fail before your LED.

Good points about the early failure causes.

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