Meanwhile, I’ve been working on the “Sofirn Comparison Chart” (please feel free to suggest something that sounds better). Thanks to rost333’s great contribution – thank you very much! – I was able to collate his and my data into a first draft. Please note, that there is still some information missing and some data may be subject to change for these were taken from different resources (manuals, ads on Amazon/AliExpress or even from reviews). For instance, the data for intensity and range of the Q8 and SP70 are yet to be verified. Any hints and help to fill the gaps or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
If you click on the spreadsheet you will be redirected to the pdf-file for a more convenient download.
Cheers,
Thomas
Hello Thomas,
Let me add, that from my current purchase, I got an SF14 V2.0, which had glued bezel, so I cannot open it and replace LED. Could you please update the row in the table?
Meanwhile, I’ve been working on the “Sofirn Comparison Chart” (please feel free to suggest something that sounds better). Thanks to rost333’s great contribution – thank you very much! – I was able to collate his and my data into a first draft. Please note, that there is still some information missing and some data may be subject to change for these were taken from different resources (manuals, ads on Amazon/AliExpress or even from reviews). For instance, the data for intensity and range of the Q8 and SP70 are yet to be verified. Any hints and help to fill the gaps or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
If you click on the spreadsheet you will be redirected to the pdf-file for a more convenient download.
Cheers,
Thomas
Hello Thomas,
Let me add, that from my current purchase, I got an SF14 V2.0, which had glued bezel, so I cannot open it and replace LED. Could you please update the row in the table?
The SF14 doesn’t have a removeable bezel at all.
You can remove the driver/pill/MCPCB by unscrewing the battery tube from the head of the light and using tweezers or snap ring pliers to unscrew the internals. I believe both the retaining ring and pill/board combo are reverse threaded.
I reflowed an LH351D into mine and its great – nice floody beam perfect for a smaller EDC light like that. A suspension clip is a great replacement for the very “eh” clip that comes stock on the light.
You can remove the driver/pill/MCPCB by unscrewing the battery tube from the head of the light and using tweezers or snap ring pliers to unscrew the internals. I believe both the retaining ring and pill/board combo are reverse threaded.
SF14, yes. But the SF14 V2.0 is constructed differently. No retaining ring. Driver appears to be glued in, you can see a little evidence of that in one of my pictures: my quick impression here
Sf14 v2 is not mod friendly. I bought a bunch of them only to find out it is not constructed the same as the SF14 original. Very disappointing. I hope Sofirn brings back the original SF14.
Sf14 v2 is not mod friendly. I bought a bunch of them only to find out it is not constructed the same as the SF14 original. Very disappointing. I hope Sofirn brings back the original SF14.
I must confess I had to learn it the hard way to NOT put a single high current Samsung 30Q into the SP36, effectively running it 1P instead of 3P. While this seems to be more or less harmless with the originially provided Sofirn 18650 batteries it becomes much of a problem when using batteries that can be drained with far more than 10-15A. As you can imagine the entire current was provided by a single cell, probably 20-30A for some seconds. The spring used here has some resistance and could not sustain that much current and collapsed eventually. Again, I can only praise Sofirn’s customer service who offered me the entire PCB with 3 springs as a spare part for $ 5,00. If Sofirn bypassed the springs they would not tend to collapse that easily and SP36’s performance would rise by about 800-1,000 lumens with XP-L2 (a bit less with LH351D, SST-20 or XP-L HI). Thus, there’s still some potential for optimization.
Barry, I saw that on this SP36 light Sofirn has used flat-head screws (like in my picure above) instead of countersunk-head screws that are being used in all the other SP36 lights I have seen before. Please try to use flat-head screws only as current will be limited using the more or less inappropriate countersunk-head screws (see examplary picture below). The current would only flow throw the small area of contact on the screw head’s surface.
AFAIK there will be no SP40A and SP40B headlamp. Instead Sofirn decided to launch the “SP40” which is more or less the SP40B (XP-L, 18650 size). But I don’t know when it’s about to happen. The manual however is ready for printing.
Apart from the SP40 I just read that Sofirn will be releasing the SP10S, an updated SP10 V2.0 (AA/14500 EDC with e-switch) that comes with LH351D 5.000K 90CRI instead of XP-G2, see here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1492565#comment-1492565
That’s good news. Barry also mentioned he could imagine an Andúril-driven SP10S “BLF version” if there is enough interest and if Toykeeper is able to assist adapting Andúril to this tiny EDC light. So, I created a separate thread for the interest and feasibility check, see here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66910
Apart from the SP40 I just read that Sofirn will be releasing the SP10S, an updated SP10 V2.0 (AA/14500 EDC with e-switch) that comes with LH351D 5.000K 90CRI instead of XP-G2, see here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1492565#comment-1492565
This is great news, need more flashlight models with emitters LH351D !!! I think many will be interested in the LH351D 4000K 90CRI and maybe even 3000K. Good to have a choice. I use TIR – optics in my Sofirn SP10b, maybe a Sofirn will also sell such an option?
I think Sofirn should find a way to make accidental activation harder on the SP10, it’s a good light but I don’t EDC mine often because it turns on too easily in my pocket, or maybe I should just unscrew the tailcap a bit… but still I think making accidental activation a bit harder would improve the quality as product.
Sf14 v2 is not mod friendly. I bought a bunch of them only to find out it is not constructed the same as the SF14 original. Very disappointing. I hope Sofirn brings back the original SF14.
how do you want to mode it?
The SF14 v2 is more difficult to get to the mcpcb unlike the SF14 original where you just twist off the head/bezel. Also the original SF14 fits the more typical 16mm mcpcb so I can use the Optisolis and E21A 9080 emitters, which is perfect for 14500 and AA flashlights. The SF14 v2 however fits I think 14mm mcpcb only.
I think Sofirn should find a way to make accidental activation harder on the SP10, it’s a good light but I don’t EDC mine often because it turns on too easily in my pocket, or maybe I should just unscrew the tailcap a bit… but still I think making accidental activation a bit harder would improve the quality as product.
Seems easier said than done,
Eg, make the button flush or even recessed to prevent accidental activations… “It’s hard to find the switch by feel!!”.
Make the switch protrude for easier activation by feel… “My light turns itself on in my pocket all the time!!”.
Make the switch stiffer… “It’s too hard to press!!”.
FW3A is good enough, does BLF still need a compact 21700 light?
Larry’s preposal is completely different from the FW3A.
As far as I know, nobody makes a light like Larry’s proposal. I think one company makes something similar but it’s over $70 which makes it cost prohibitive to use as a host.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
FW3A is good enough, does BLF still need a compact 21700 light?
I think FW3A is different. It uses 18650 cells instead of 21700 cells. It uses a Carclo 105xx optic whereas Sofirn normally uses reflectors. My cost-effective suggestion for Sofirn would be following:
Use the 21700 tube of C8F as a standard part for new 21700 flashlights
Adapt SP32A V2.0 and SP31 V2.0 head to the C8F 21700 tube and tailcap (one with tailswitch, one without)
Offer a host version without „angled board“ (switch not soldered to driver) and with standard sizes (20mm/22mm diameter for drivers, LED boards)....it will sell like hot cakes for sure!
Offer more emitter choices and tints, i.e. SST-20 5.000K 70CRI, SST-20 4.000K 95CRI, XP-L2 4.000K 90CRI, LH351D 4.000K 90CRI and 5.000K 70CRI...
My extended wishlist...
In terms of Andúril there might be a chance to upgrade the e-switch models, i.e.:
SP33 V3.0 26650 (XHP50.2, XHP70.2, MT-G2), incl. kit-version with Sofirn 26650 5.500mAh high capacity battery
SP70 BLF edition (XHP70.2, SMO reflector, Andúril adapted to work with e-switch AND tailswitch without revoking the ability to use momentary and mode memory)
SC31 could be kept "as is" but please exchange XP-G3 by SST-20 for a better tint and more throw.
SP36 is fine but please take spring bypasses (~ 800lm - 1.000lm on top) and flat head screws in the bottom PCB into consideration to improve the current path.
Q8 is fine but please offer SST-40 5.000K and Luxeon V 4.000K 70CRI as alternatives. Neven (www.led4power.com) has the right boards available.
SST-20 is a cheap alternative to XP-L HI with even better throw. For SP31 V2.0 it will be a win win situation, causing less prime costs for Sofirn while they can still maintain a very competitive price. Now that Sofirn was able to source LH351D they may want to try this LED as an alternative to XP-L2. Again, possibly lower prime costs and a better tint in return.
Before I pull the trigger on one, am I reading it correctly that the C8T is limited to 4.5A? If so…. hello Osram Flat White 1mm.
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
I had to do it.
Third SP36, if i could have easily got the driver out i would had put Anduril on it myself.
Still its only money LOL.
Hello Thomas,
Let me add, that from my current purchase, I got an SF14 V2.0, which had glued bezel, so I cannot open it and replace LED. Could you please update the row in the table?
If you have not opened it yet, how do you know it’s glued as opposed to just really tight?
Thomas would probably need confirmation of glue before putting it on the list.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
…or a left-hand thread.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
The SF14 doesn’t have a removeable bezel at all.
You can remove the driver/pill/MCPCB by unscrewing the battery tube from the head of the light and using tweezers or snap ring pliers to unscrew the internals. I believe both the retaining ring and pill/board combo are reverse threaded.
I reflowed an LH351D into mine and its great – nice floody beam perfect for a smaller EDC light like that. A suspension clip is a great replacement for the very “eh” clip that comes stock on the light.
SF14, yes. But the SF14 V2.0 is constructed differently. No retaining ring. Driver appears to be glued in, you can see a little evidence of that in one of my pictures: my quick impression here
Sf14 v2 is not mod friendly. I bought a bunch of them only to find out it is not constructed the same as the SF14 original. Very disappointing. I hope Sofirn brings back the original SF14.
how do you want to mode it?
My new Facebook account: https://www.facebook.com/barry.dong.9250
I (unsuccessfully) attempted to open mine with the intention of changing out the LED for something a bit warmer like a 4000K Luxeon V2 or SST-20.
That, and adding a resistor to the driver to assist with my Booster Tail illuminated tailcap.
(the last three on the right are SF14 V2.0, SF14, and SF14)
I must confess I had to learn it the hard way to NOT put a single high current Samsung 30Q into the SP36, effectively running it 1P instead of 3P. While this seems to be more or less harmless with the originially provided Sofirn 18650 batteries it becomes much of a problem when using batteries that can be drained with far more than 10-15A. As you can imagine the entire current was provided by a single cell, probably 20-30A for some seconds. The spring used here has some resistance and could not sustain that much current and collapsed eventually. Again, I can only praise Sofirn’s customer service who offered me the entire PCB with 3 springs as a spare part for $ 5,00.
If Sofirn bypassed the springs they would not tend to collapse that easily and SP36’s performance would rise by about 800-1,000 lumens with XP-L2 (a bit less with LH351D, SST-20 or XP-L HI). Thus, there’s still some potential for optimization.
Barry, I saw that on this SP36 light Sofirn has used flat-head screws (like in my picure above) instead of countersunk-head screws that are being used in all the other SP36 lights I have seen before. Please try to use flat-head screws only as current will be limited using the more or less inappropriate countersunk-head screws (see examplary picture below). The current would only flow throw the small area of contact on the screw head’s surface.
How did I miss this?
That’s fantastic customer service – I wish all manufacturers would have a “spare parts bin” for when things go awry, available for sale.
Is there any news on the headlamp?
I really need to get an SF14 at some stage…
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
AFAIK there will be no SP40A and SP40B headlamp. Instead Sofirn decided to launch the “SP40” which is more or less the SP40B (XP-L, 18650 size). But I don’t know when it’s about to happen. The manual however is ready for printing.
Apart from the SP40 I just read that Sofirn will be releasing the SP10S, an updated SP10 V2.0 (AA/14500 EDC with e-switch) that comes with LH351D 5.000K 90CRI instead of XP-G2, see here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1492565#comment-1492565
That’s good news. Barry also mentioned he could imagine an Andúril-driven SP10S “BLF version” if there is enough interest and if Toykeeper is able to assist adapting Andúril to this tiny EDC light. So, I created a separate thread for the interest and feasibility check, see here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66910
This is great news, need more flashlight models with emitters LH351D !!! I think many will be interested in the LH351D 4000K 90CRI and maybe even 3000K. Good to have a choice. I use TIR – optics in my Sofirn SP10b, maybe a Sofirn will also sell such an option?
Sorry for my poor english.
I think Sofirn should find a way to make accidental activation harder on the SP10, it’s a good light but I don’t EDC mine often because it turns on too easily in my pocket, or maybe I should just unscrew the tailcap a bit… but still I think making accidental activation a bit harder would improve the quality as product.
I’ve been looking for an AA/14500 light and if this one is updated to a really nice emitter and with Anduril, I’d get one for sure.
Good point about the accidental activation. A couple of my Sofirn 18650 lights with side switches have turned on by accident.
I hope Sofirn will offer buyers SP40 a choice between emitters XP-L and LH351D. And also the choice of CCT 3000K-5000K.
Sorry for my poor english.
The SF14 v2 is more difficult to get to the mcpcb unlike the SF14 original where you just twist off the head/bezel. Also the original SF14 fits the more typical 16mm mcpcb so I can use the Optisolis and E21A 9080 emitters, which is perfect for 14500 and AA flashlights. The SF14 v2 however fits I think 14mm mcpcb only.
If you need 14mm but not dtp, try
https://www.illumn.com/leds-drivers-optics-mcpcbs/14mm-xp-series-mcpcb.html
for 219s and the like.
They got 12s, 10s, even 8s.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
sofirn tried SST20, LH351D and XPL. The beam of XPL is the best, so it’s the first. Other versions are possible but need to make it step by step.
My new Facebook account: https://www.facebook.com/barry.dong.9250
SP32A V3 XPL HI, 21700, No glue, no timer step down.
Give me thrower or give me pizza.
Seems easier said than done,
Eg, make the button flush or even recessed to prevent accidental activations… “It’s hard to find the switch by feel!!”.
Make the switch protrude for easier activation by feel… “My light turns itself on in my pocket all the time!!”.
Make the switch stiffer… “It’s too hard to press!!”.
And back and forth, back and forth…
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
This is a preposal? A 21700 sized tube light?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
FW3A is good enough, does BLF still need a compact 21700 light?
My new Facebook account: https://www.facebook.com/barry.dong.9250
Larry’s preposal is completely different from the FW3A.
As far as I know, nobody makes a light like Larry’s proposal. I think one company makes something similar but it’s over $70 which makes it cost prohibitive to use as a host.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I think FW3A is different. It uses 18650 cells instead of 21700 cells. It uses a Carclo 105xx optic whereas Sofirn normally uses reflectors. My cost-effective suggestion for Sofirn would be following:
My extended wishlist...
SP31 V3.0 21700 (XP-L HI, SST-20), incl. kit-version with Sofirn 21700 4.000mAh battery (Lishen LS2170SA)
SP32A V3.0 21700 (XP-L2, LH351D), incl. kit-version with Sofirn 21700 4.000mAh battery (Lishen LS2170SA)
SP33 V3.0 26650 (XHP50.2, XHP70.2, MT-G2), incl. kit-version with Sofirn 26650 5.500mAh high capacity battery
SP70 BLF edition (XHP70.2, SMO reflector, Andúril adapted to work with e-switch AND tailswitch without revoking the ability to use momentary and mode memory)
This is probably one of my biggest wish items – some good options between 4000 and 5000K, and some high CRI. Cool white is just….blahhhhhhhh.
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
I would imagine another compact, but powerful light would be a great success. Emisar D4, D4S and the Fireflies E07 have been very popular.
SST-20 is a cheap alternative to XP-L HI with even better throw. For SP31 V2.0 it will be a win win situation, causing less prime costs for Sofirn while they can still maintain a very competitive price. Now that Sofirn was able to source LH351D they may want to try this LED as an alternative to XP-L2. Again, possibly lower prime costs and a better tint in return.
Agreed
Just wish Luminus would make a 5000k high-CRI.
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
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