It’s been almost a couple years now for the GT MICRO, Is there any plans for a possible GT MICROPRO? I love my MICRO but it would be amazing to have this in the PRO lineup as well. Any thoughts
What changes would you expect for the PRO version (regarding emitter and driver as well)?
I would like to see the OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG with the same Texas Avenger FET driver. I am not a builder so whatever the pros think but the OSRAM would give it a concordable increase in throw and output, it is a micro thrower.
I just received the Lumintop GT Micro Osram with the Vapecell H10 and am having switch issues as well. I emailed the vendor and waiting on a reply for the return. My light will come on by itself and changing modes the LED will blink sometimes and then change modes, other times it will go from high to low by itself. Other anomalies happen as well, it really is so inconsistent its impossible to write down everything that happens. My original GT micro has been rock solid.
The GT Micro has a 90 deg board mount switch, so one of the things that can go wrong is the switch tilts back, pulling off the PCB. It's happened to me with other lights, similar switches. This one looks pretty well secured but hard to tell, and hard to tell of the quality of the switch. The GT Micro is not cheap for it's size, so I would expect higher quality.
If it feels like the switch boot has to be pressed harder to make contact, then this may be the problem. I've seen it still function, just harder to press - taken apart, and the switch was tilted back.
Hello, this is my first post (but I am long time reader of the forum :D) so welcome everybody. I recently bought Micro GT (with osram led) and I tried to use it with purple efest 14500 imr 6.5A unprotected cell, flat top. When I screw down tail cap it gives 2 blinks (so connection is good?) but after that it is non responding to any clicks – I tried 1x short, 4x short (to unlock), 1x long, 1x extra long 16s, several short ones… Nothing happens any ideas what’s wrong? Maybe I need to use different cell?
Edit : after many tries it finally turned on but then again I needed to press several times and it turned off, looks like button switch is not making contact when I press for most times. Is that hardware problem and I should return it / send for warranty or is there a way to easily fix that?
GT Micro has a very slightly raised button at driver end. Maybe you’re not getting good contact?
Edit: Where did you buy it from?
Get a decent size cable, remove tail cap, touch 1 end to neg of battery and other end to end of tube. Tap on edge of tube see if anything happens
It was second hand buy (but new) so I don’t know the store, I did a try what you described and same thing happens – when I close cirtuit there are 2 blinks (so circuit is closed) but still button doesn’t work, looks like a faulty button switch…
In most cases pressing button does nothing, only after several tries it sometimes works (turn on) and then it takes another several tries to turn off or sometimes it doesn’t and I need to unscrew tail cap
I’ve just received a new GT Micro from BG, GT Micro NM1
Already had the XP-L and NM1 in copper so stupid impulse buy. Anywho, got it today and tried it out. Anduril2 and fixed tail cap is surprising. Takes a Vapcell L10 10A BT battery no probs. Version flashes 202009270322 so GT Mini hex.
Would be interested to hear if anyone else has purchased one recently and if the tail cap is fixed/glued.
I had a Li cell take a dump in it, and needed to get to the nekkid tube to bore through it with a wire-brush (after soaking it out as much as possible). Had to diddle with the spring to shine it up, etc., so had it been glued in place, yeah, forget it, wouldda been a write-off.
Yes, much prefer a 1/4 turn off the tail to cut the cicuit, maybe try the Nano tube and run it off a 10180 . There’s a decent spring down there so I recon they glued it. Might take a heat gun to it – don’t want to melt the oring though.
The modular illustration in both OP and the BG page shows the tail cap separated as normal (?). Strange. I had one ordered as it was a great deal with Fin’s coupon (was considering it as a backup to my current micro nm1), but got refunded due to none in stock. Maybe just as well, couldn’t deal with a fixed tail cap. All my e-switch lights get the “twist” when offline, and I don’t like doing it from the head end unless necessary (ie; FWAA).
Hello all, moderate history as a reader/learner, but forced into a 1st post today with a dilemma.
I lent my GT Micro to a family member today and they somehow lost/tore-out the rubber switch cover/activator/see-thru bit. So now my beloved Micro is in need of help.
I bought it directly from NealsGadgets in the 1st batch or so, in March of 2019.
My google fu failed to find a source of replacements.
I’m looking at mine and wondering hownahell did someone manage to do that? Gouge it with a knife-point and pry it out? Like, whut??
I doubt anyone’d sell the individual cover, but you might fab one out of a generic silicone switch-boot, maybe stoopit-gloo it to the switch-button caaarefully.
Doubt it’d be very watertight afterwards, but it’ll still work. Just don’t drownd it.
Hello all, moderate history as a reader/learner, but forced into a 1st post today with a dilemma.
I lent my GT Micro to a family member today and they somehow lost/tore-out the rubber switch cover/activator/see-thru bit. So now my beloved Micro is in need of help.
I bought it directly from NealsGadgets in the 1st batch or so, in March of 2019.
My google fu failed to find a source of replacements.
Anyone have suggestions/help?
Thanks,
Jeff
Wouldn’t hurt to ask Lumintop, maybe you’re get lucky
Kinda like borrowing your car and it comes back without steering wheel. It just came off, just like that, huh?
E05C has same looking switch and it feels kinda loose soft or kinda weird, but Micro has at least different kind of button press feel so maybe only rubber part is same. Could swear it has thinner rubber though, hoping it won’t come off now.
More like a reference book that I used that clear vinyl film on the cover, the spine wasn’t even cracked, it was in pristine condition, and I expected it back the same way. Came back a mess. I was like, “Here, you keep this one, and you buy me a replacement.”.
Like, the half-hour lecture beforehand how I expected it back in the same exact condition as it is now was to just hear myself talk?
And this was after about a half-hour of arguing how, no, it’s best you get it from someone else, because I take care of my stuff and expect to keep my stuff that way, and like an idiot was talked into lending it out at all.
I can’t understand how on those judge-shows, people lend out their cars to neighbors, friends, cow-orkers, strangers, then get all surprised-Pinkachu-face when the car comes back wrecked. Like, wtf??
I’ve just received a new GT Micro from BG, GT Micro NM1
Already had the XP-L and NM1 in copper so stupid impulse buy. Anywho, got it today and tried it out. Anduril2 and fixed tail cap is surprising. Takes a Vapcell L10 10A BT battery no probs. Version flashes 202009270322 so GT Mini hex.
Would be interested to hear if anyone else has purchased one recently and if the tail cap is fixed/glued.
I also received the GT Micro NM1 from BG a few days ago.
At first, I thought the tailcap was fixed..
But upon inspection, it seems that it’s not, but it is extremely tight. With the help of a rubber strap wrench (I didn’t try heating up the tailcap as you suggested), I was able to unscrew the tailcap. (it’s the same tailcap as on the GT Micro with XPL-Hi)
It doesn’t appear to be glued, but for some reason, it was extremely tight when first trying to unscrew the tailcap. But after the first unscrewing, it’s now not difficult to unscrew the tailcap.
Doing 15 clicks (Anduril version check) indicates the GT Micro with Osram CSLNM1 LED has: Anduril 2 version 2020-09-27 model ‘322’
I would like to see the OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG with the same Texas Avenger FET driver. I am not a builder so whatever the pros think but the OSRAM would give it a concordable increase in throw and output, it is a micro thrower.
Doug S.
Hi
Does anyone have measured Kcd numbers for gt micro osram w1.1?? how about amp draw? My micro osram outthrows my D1s!
thanks for any info.
It seems my switch started acting up. Usually need two clicks to shut off, even five once, but sometimes it works ok. Any repair for this?
I just received the Lumintop GT Micro Osram with the Vapecell H10 and am having switch issues as well. I emailed the vendor and waiting on a reply for the return. My light will come on by itself and changing modes the LED will blink sometimes and then change modes, other times it will go from high to low by itself. Other anomalies happen as well, it really is so inconsistent its impossible to write down everything that happens. My original GT micro has been rock solid.
The GT Micro has a 90 deg board mount switch, so one of the things that can go wrong is the switch tilts back, pulling off the PCB. It's happened to me with other lights, similar switches. This one looks pretty well secured but hard to tell, and hard to tell of the quality of the switch. The GT Micro is not cheap for it's size, so I would expect higher quality.
If it feels like the switch boot has to be pressed harder to make contact, then this may be the problem. I've seen it still function, just harder to press - taken apart, and the switch was tilted back.
GT Micro driver below:
Hello, this is my first post (but I am long time reader of the forum :D) so welcome everybody. I recently bought Micro GT (with osram led) and I tried to use it with purple efest 14500 imr 6.5A unprotected cell, flat top. When I screw down tail cap it gives 2 blinks (so connection is good?) but after that it is non responding to any clicks – I tried 1x short, 4x short (to unlock), 1x long, 1x extra long 16s, several short ones… Nothing happens any ideas what’s wrong? Maybe I need to use different cell?
Edit : after many tries it finally turned on but then again I needed to press several times and it turned off, looks like button switch is not making contact when I press for most times. Is that hardware problem and I should return it / send for warranty or is there a way to easily fix that?
GT Micro has a very slightly raised button at driver end. Maybe you’re not getting good contact?
Edit: Where did you buy it from?
Get a decent size cable, remove tail cap, touch 1 end to neg of battery and other end to end of tube. Tap on edge of tube see if anything happens
It was second hand buy (but new) so I don’t know the store, I did a try what you described and same thing happens – when I close cirtuit there are 2 blinks (so circuit is closed) but still button doesn’t work, looks like a faulty button switch…
Does the button light work?
In most cases pressing button does nothing, only after several tries it sometimes works (turn on) and then it takes another several tries to turn off or sometimes it doesn’t and I need to unscrew tail cap
I’ve just received a new GT Micro from BG, GT Micro NM1
Already had the XP-L and NM1 in copper so stupid impulse buy. Anywho, got it today and tried it out. Anduril2 and fixed tail cap is surprising. Takes a Vapcell L10 10A BT battery no probs. Version flashes 202009270322 so GT Mini hex.
Would be interested to hear if anyone else has purchased one recently and if the tail cap is fixed/glued.
Ewww, that would suck.
I had a Li cell take a dump in it, and needed to get to the nekkid tube to bore through it with a wire-brush (after soaking it out as much as possible). Had to diddle with the spring to shine it up, etc., so had it been glued in place, yeah, forget it, wouldda been a write-off.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
Yes, much prefer a 1/4 turn off the tail to cut the cicuit, maybe try the Nano tube and run it off a 10180
. There’s a decent spring down there so I recon they glued it. Might take a heat gun to it – don’t want to melt the oring though.
The modular illustration in both OP and the BG page shows the tail cap separated as normal (?). Strange. I had one ordered as it was a great deal with Fin’s coupon (was considering it as a backup to my current micro nm1), but got refunded due to none in stock. Maybe just as well, couldn’t deal with a fixed tail cap. All my e-switch lights get the “twist” when offline, and I don’t like doing it from the head end unless necessary (ie; FWAA).
Hello all, moderate history as a reader/learner, but forced into a 1st post today with a dilemma.
I lent my GT Micro to a family member today and they somehow lost/tore-out the rubber switch cover/activator/see-thru bit. So now my beloved Micro is in need of help.
I bought it directly from NealsGadgets in the 1st batch or so, in March of 2019.
My google fu failed to find a source of replacements.
Anyone have suggestions/help?
Thanks,
Jeff
I’m looking at mine and wondering hownahell did someone manage to do that? Gouge it with a knife-point and pry it out? Like, whut??
I doubt anyone’d sell the individual cover, but you might fab one out of a generic silicone switch-boot, maybe stoopit-gloo it to the switch-button caaarefully.
Doubt it’d be very watertight afterwards, but it’ll still work. Just don’t drownd it.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
I hope you enjoy your stay, carpe_zoom!
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread
Wouldn’t hurt to ask Lumintop, maybe you’re get lucky
https://lumintop.com/contact/
Thanks for the replies. Thanks for the welcome.
I asked Lumintop, and they sent me to NealsGadgets, in a very fast reply.
I've asked Neal, but no reply so far (it's been less than a day so far, still hoping).
As to how, I think the magic was a bad attitude at tech and fingernails. Sigh. Never in my wildest imagination.
Now you know why I rarely if ever lend out anything.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
Kinda like borrowing your car and it comes back without steering wheel. It just came off, just like that, huh?
E05C has same looking switch and it feels kinda loose soft or kinda weird, but Micro has at least different kind of button press feel so maybe only rubber part is same. Could swear it has thinner rubber though, hoping it won’t come off now.
More like a reference book that I used that clear vinyl film on the cover, the spine wasn’t even cracked, it was in pristine condition, and I expected it back the same way. Came back a mess. I was like, “Here, you keep this one, and you buy me a replacement.”.
Like, the half-hour lecture beforehand how I expected it back in the same exact condition as it is now was to just hear myself talk?
And this was after about a half-hour of arguing how, no, it’s best you get it from someone else, because I take care of my stuff and expect to keep my stuff that way, and like an idiot was talked into lending it out at all.
I can’t understand how on those judge-shows, people lend out their cars to neighbors, friends, cow-orkers, strangers, then get all surprised-Pinkachu-face when the car comes back wrecked. Like, wtf??
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
I also received the GT Micro NM1 from BG a few days ago.
At first, I thought the tailcap was fixed..
But upon inspection, it seems that it’s not, but it is extremely tight. With the help of a rubber strap wrench (I didn’t try heating up the tailcap as you suggested), I was able to unscrew the tailcap. (it’s the same tailcap as on the GT Micro with XPL-Hi)
It doesn’t appear to be glued, but for some reason, it was extremely tight when first trying to unscrew the tailcap. But after the first unscrewing, it’s now not difficult to unscrew the tailcap.
Doing 15 clicks (Anduril version check) indicates the GT Micro with Osram CSLNM1 LED has: Anduril 2 version 2020-09-27 model ‘322’
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