Which AA Battery is Best? Can Amazon Basics beat Energizer? Let's find out!

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clemence
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Which AA Battery is Best? Can Amazon Basics beat Energizer? Let's find out!

A more not-so-nerdy useful test from Project Farm:

- Clemence

Pete7874
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I saw this posted on another forum the other day.

His results don’t match my own. My Rayovac High Energy actually outperform Energizers, but there is probably some variation batch to batch, year to year, that may account for this inconsistency.

toddcshoe
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I don’t want to watch the video but am semi curious as to which one won the battle of the Gonnaleak battery’s.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

Pete7874
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Interesting, when on sale, the Rayovacs are actually even less expensive than the DollarTree batteries.

JoeRodge
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leaftye wrote:
The best depends on if you want the most mAh or the most mAh/$. In a test by another Youtuber, Sunbeam AA's from Dollar Tree won the mAh/$ contest by a healthy margin.
1.) He is buying 4 packs. How can u compare this to larger packs which offer better value. 2.) So many good batteries aren't being tested 3.) This is one random application. Throw these batteries in high drain and low drain applications. I've heard ACDelco batteries offer the best bang for the buck. I also hear they are less likely to leak. Can't speak on them personally. Edit: Just watching that "drop test" in the first video made me cringe lol. Very scientific. Everyone break your multimeters.
Pete7874
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JoeRodge wrote:
I’ve heard ACDelco batteries offer the best bang for the buck.

Menards has 30-pack for $1.96 after rebate. That’s less than $0.07 per cell. Even cheaper than Rayovac.
DavidEF
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I just watched that video from Project Farm today. He doesn’t exactly test like HKJ, but his results can be useful nonetheless. Ironically, his testing of other products is usually very thorough. He’s certainly not aiming to the flashlight enthusiast crowd.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
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slowtechstef
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Thanks for sharing.

Two observations:

- I would have liked a table with a summary of the test results. In a single glance I would have been able to get to the relevant info. Tables are undervalued for sharing information in a succinct manner without loosing resolution. Videos have a really low information density.

- Explain something about the relation between discharge current and battery capacity. For very low drain applications alkaleaks actually do have a good capacity/price ratio, however with a risk involved for damaging your device because of electrolyte leakage. Which is the best battery depends on the specific context of use.

oto
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slowtechstef wrote:

- I would have liked a table with a summary of the test results. In a single glance I would have been able to get to the relevant info. Tables are undervalued for sharing information in a succinct manner without loosing resolution. Videos have a really low information density.

Here you go:

slowtechstef
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Graphical summaries are at the end of the video I see now Facepalm
Would have been great if he would have started his video with these graphics as they basically summarize the complete 10 minute video in 2 pictures.

Anyway: Thanks for posting the pics Thumbs Up

Pete7874
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oto wrote:
slowtechstef wrote:

- I would have liked a table with a summary of the test results. In a single glance I would have been able to get to the relevant info. Tables are undervalued for sharing information in a succinct manner without loosing resolution. Videos have a really low information density.

Here you go:



Am I reading these graphs correctly that he’s getting more capacity when using higher discharge current on some of these batteries? How is that possible?

Energizer Lithium:
3317 mAh at 300 mA
3152 mAh at 100 mA

Rayovac Fusion:
1884 mAh at 300 mA
1844 mAh at 100 mA

Rayovac:
1589 mAh at 300 mA
1465 mAh at 100 mA

Eveready Silver:
1384 mAh at 300 mA
1279 mAh at 100 mA

clemence
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Pete7874 wrote:
oto wrote:
slowtechstef wrote:
- I would have liked a table with a summary of the test results. In a single glance I would have been able to get to the relevant info. Tables are undervalued for sharing information in a succinct manner without loosing resolution. Videos have a really low information density.
Here you go:
Am I reading these graphs correctly that he’s getting more capacity when using higher discharge current on some of these batteries? How is that possible?

Looks like it’s just variation between batteries. Remember, he can’t use the same batteries for different tests

- Clemence

DavidEF
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clemence wrote:

Looks like it’s just variation between batteries. Remember, he can’t use the same batteries for different tests

- Clemence


That would be my assumption as well. One of the limitations of his process is that he doesn’t have a very large “sample size” for each cell in each test.

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BurningPlayd0h
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What was the voltage cutoff for these? The voltage output is FAR from constant for alkalines and some devices won’t work properly when getting say… 1.1v instead of 1.4/1.5 meaning these capacity reading don’t reflect real world use well.

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Nice videos and good work.

I’ve had so many alkalines leak on me I only use them in devices where if they leak, they can be replaced cheaply. I live in a place where it can go from 100 degrees in the summer to the teens and below in the winter.

I now only use Energizer Ultimate Lithium’s in all of my AA and AAA lights that I care about as they can tolerate temperature swings and NEVER leak and hold their charge. Also, if you shop around, you can get some incredible deals on them on Ebay.

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Charge some Nimh a few times and the $/mAh smashes all these alkalines too, even factoring in the price of a charger.

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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Charge some Nimh a few times and the $/mAh smashes all these alkalines too, even factoring in the price of a charger.

Yes, that’s true, especially if you get good Fujitsu factory NiMH like Eneloops, Duraloops, and others. However, alkaline still has one advantage over NiMH, and that is voltage. Even in 2018, some devices still aren’t made to be able to use NiMH voltage range and will turn off or just not work right because “the battery is dead”. Facepalm

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
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Gebe wrote:
Nice videos and good work.

I’ve had so many alkalines leak on me I only use them in devices where if they leak, they can be replaced cheaply. I live in a place where it can go from 100 degrees in the summer to the teens and below in the winter.

I now only use Energizer Ultimate Lithium’s in all of my AA and AAA lights that I care about as they can tolerate temperature swings and NEVER leak and hold their charge. Also, if you shop around, you can get some incredible deals on them on Ebay.

Don’t feel too safe with those Ultimate Lithiums, that’s what I thought too….

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/63880

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a more accurate test would be hf alkaleaks and sunbeam alkaleaks in place of the carbon zinc.
he is comparing apples to oranges.
everyone should know carbon zinc are a poor choice for anything but clocks and remotes.

clemence
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snakebite wrote:
a more accurate test would be hf alkaleaks and sunbeam alkaleaks in place of the carbon zinc. he is comparing apples to oranges. everyone should know carbon zinc are a poor choice for anything but clocks and remotes.

He made that video for commoner, unlike most of the active member here (us = nerds) Glasses . I don’t think most of battery consumers know which is orange and which is apple.

- Clemence

Gebe
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tatasal wrote:
Gebe wrote:
Nice videos and good work.

I’ve had so many alkalines leak on me I only use them in devices where if they leak, they can be replaced cheaply. I live in a place where it can go from 100 degrees in the summer to the teens and below in the winter.

I now only use Energizer Ultimate Lithium’s in all of my AA and AAA lights that I care about as they can tolerate temperature swings and NEVER leak and hold their charge. Also, if you shop around, you can get some incredible deals on them on Ebay.

Don’t feel too safe with those Ultimate Lithiums, that’s what I thought too….

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/63880

!{width:40%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/AlQ2hl2.jpg[/img]!

Boy, that’s something tatasal! I’ve used lithium primaries for years and years in everything and never had a single leak. I even keep them in lights in our cars that have temperature swings of 9 degrees to well over 100 and never had one leak.

I noticed over in your thread that member Texas Toasted had some leakers also. I guess it’s like all the reports of LiIon cells exploding, anything can happen to anything in this imperfect world but I still use LiIon cells.

People have reported that NiMH cells never leak, well I had a Eneloop AA NiMH cell leak on me a few years ago. I should have taken pictures of the leaker back then but never thought of it. It developed a leak while I was charging 4 Eneloops in a Nitecore D4 charger but luckily it didn’t do any damage to the charger. Even so, I still use Eneloops as I figure it was just a fluke.

In fact I’ve had every chemistry primary cell leak on me at one time or another except lithium primaries.

I’m truly sorry that you had your experience but I guess I should have stated that I’ve never had one leak instead of they never leak. I guess what all of this tells us is with your experience and Texas Toasted experience and my experience with the Eneloop leaker is that ANYTHING CAN LEAK. Sad

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Over the past 10 years I haven’t had any Energizers leak (alkaline, not lithium) but almost all of my duracells have.
I only buy energizer cells now for stuff that needs AA or AAA, like remotes, clocks, and other things.