EDC-able, CR123, High CRI, Neutral White, decent distance

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Dr Forinor
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EDC-able, CR123, High CRI, Neutral White, decent distance

As per title.

I recently got a Fenix E16 (which has the neutral white). This reminded me how much I love CR123 lights, but more importantly how much I love 4000-5000k colour temperatures.

I dug out my Lumintop Tool Ti High CRI, and the BLF-348, and instantly was at home with the High CRI aspect of it all.

What I really dislike about the Fenix E16 is the switch is quite easily pressed whilst in the pocket, for me at least. I know there is an electronic lockout function but that just makes the thing constantly flash all the time. And using the pocket clip to cover the switch is kind of crap, doesn’t work.

This has now lead onto me wanting a new light, but very specific criteria;

- Has to be pocketable/EDC-able
- I want a CR123/16340 to allow for higher modes than an AAA light
- I want to stay in colour temperatures of between 4000k – 5000k. Ideally 5000k is at the extreme cool end, I much prefer 4000-4500k, but can live with 5000k, no cooler.
- I want High CRI, absolutely no less than 90 and ideally 92 if possible.
- Obviously it’s an EDC light so mainly an area style of light, but if possible if it has some throw then a great bonus

Is there such a light out there that fits this criteria?

MascaratumB
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Hum, do you want with e-switch/side switch or clicky switch/tail switch??

If you can solder, an On The Road M3 Pro with a Nichia LED (or another with High CRI) instead of their XPL Leds would be good for you! It is a nice light in my opinion!

Dr Forinor
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Sorry I have no capabilities of making/lego-ing anything myself. It would have to be bought as is, whether that be from a custom maker, a member on here or a mass produced one.

As far as the switch goes, I’m easy with side or tail. I just don’t want a twisty unless it’s to get to perhaps a turbo on full twist, and other main modes on non full twist.

The On The Road M3 Pro has the L2 5C (which is 3800-4000K), but I assume that’s a low CRI?

MascaratumB
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Dr Forinor wrote:
The On The Road M3 Pro has the L2 5C (which is 3800-4000K), but I assume that’s a low CRI?

Yup, I believe so, it is probably 70 CRI or so! I don’t have that one, though I have one with the Cool White emitter, so I can’t make a direct comparison!

On the CR123 /16340s there is a current sale of the Olight S1R Baton II – Special Edition that have different emitters, some CW, some NW and some WW! I believe they all are not 90 CRI! But those are good lights if you wanna check them!

There are some Scotland members that may help you modding/replacing the LEDs! Maybe you can contact them and ask about some help Wink

MascaratumB
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BTW, if you decide for a small 18650/18350 flashlight, with Nichia, you have the Emisar D4 Wink Short tube, ramping UI, 2000+ lumens … Wink

Emisar D4 > Olight S1R Baton (old version) > On the Road M3 Pro

Dr Forinor
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Oh interesting, thank you. I’ll have a look.

Jerommel
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But CR123A is very good for EDC-ing because you don’t have to worry about leaving it fully charged for a long time, about charging the battery at all, about running out of juice in a short time.
The draw back is that you can’t count on more than 250 lumen output.
CR123A is a low drain battery.
But with those low powers it will last even longer.
The Klarus Mi1C is a nice little light.
Although i don’t like the aspheric lens as an optic. (but you could modify it with a 30 – 60° TIR optic).

Geuzzz
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Eagletac D25c with nichia

MascaratumB
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Jerommel wrote:
But CR123A is very good for EDC-ing because you don’t have to worry about leaving it fully charged for a long time, about charging the battery at all, about running out of juice in a short time. The draw back is that you can’t count on more than 250 lumen output. CR123A is a low drain battery. But with those low powers it will last even longer. The Klarus Mi1C is a nice little light. Although i don’t like the aspheric lens as an optic. (but you could modify it with a 30 – 60° TIR optic).

Yup, you’re right! Considering this, please be noted that all my suggestions were in the direction of those lights due to the output on 16340 batteries (I don’t use CR123A batteries on my lights, they are not easy to find, and I prefer to recharge than to buy and then throw them out)!

Macka17
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I got a nice little one t’other day. Had forgotten all about ordering it.

U’Torch SF 01. 350/800lumens. depending on battery.
Takes a AAA or AA or CR123 recharge. DOES work with all.
Nice beam/range for a pocket torch.
Comfortable size with good price.
Check it out.
I don’t like those little fat ones so never look at ‘em.
Probably missing some gudn’s? .

MascaratumB
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Manker E04! Also has the “High CRI” problem, but is sold in Neutral White! One of the smallest CR123A/16340 flashlights Wink

Dr Forinor
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Thank for you all your suggestions.

That UTorch SF 01 is not high CRI so not a viable option.

Sorry for being picky but a NW / WW is a must, and a High CRI is a must.

Dr Forinor
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MascaratumB wrote:
Manker E04! Also has the “High CRI” problem, but is sold in Neutral White! One of the smallest CR123A/16340 flashlights Wink

But that light is more of a “non conventional” light. And I’m sure it will have very little throw?

BlueSwordM
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IMO, I would recommend the Emisar D4 with an 18350 tube and the SST-20 4000k 95CRI option:
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html

It would be your best bet, and is extremely small. And because it has SST-20s, the throw will be very respectable.

It’s about as small as most 16340 lights, but with more power and higher capacity.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Dr Forinor
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Geuzzz wrote:
Eagletac D25c with nichia

I think this is going to have to be my answer.

Their latest D25C (non Ti version) has the Nichia 219C 4000K CRI92. Sounds about right?

Dr Forinor
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BlueSwordM wrote:
IMO, I would recommend the Emisar D4 with an 18350 tube and the SST-20 4000k 95CRI option:
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html

It would be your best bet, and is extremely small. And because it has SST-20s, the throw will be very respectable.

It’s about as small as most 16340 lights, but with more power and higher capacity.

I love everything about that, except that it doesn’t accept 16340s. I have a load of CR123/16340s which I would prefer to use. Although size was one factor, the battery choice also has a big influence as I would like to make use of my collection of CR123/16340 batteries.

BlueSwordM
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It does work with 16340s, although with reduced performance.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Dr Forinor
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Oooohhhh, sorted, that’s what I’ll get then, thanks!!!!!

Is this the same thing?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Noctigon-D4-Small-Size-Powerful-Flashlig...

I prefer not to buy from US, customs etc (for me at least) is just a nightmare and I can’t be bothered with it.

BlueSwordM
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You could just buy it from Intl Outdoor, directly from the manufacturer:
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Dr Forinor
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I didn’t realise they ship via China/Singapore – just checked now. Thanks.

hank
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CR123s are fairly low drain batteries, which would rule out a lot of the high powered lights.

Dr Forinor
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hank wrote:
CR123s are fairly low drain batteries, which would rule out a lot of the high powered lights.

And 16340s?

Dr Forinor
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Emisar D4 with an 18350 tube and the SST-20 4000k 95CRI option, now ordered.

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Dr Forinor wrote:
Emisar D4 with an 18350 tube and the SST-20 4000k 95CRI option, now ordered.

I hope it works well for you

here is another temptation, high CRI and 16340:
https://www.batteryjunction.com/klarus-mi1c-high-cri-flashlight.html

Also the HDS Rotary is 16340, and a number of them were built with High CRI LEDs that are warmer than 5000k

there is also Clemence, he has outstanding High CRI LEDs in any color temperature you want, and he puts them into CR123 lights
https://www.virence.com/product-page/Custom-TiaraC1Pro-4xNichiaE21A-R9080

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Dr Forinor wrote:
Emisar D4 with an 18350 tube and the SST-20 4000k 95CRI option, now ordered.

Better order some 18350s. That D4 will really torture 16340s.

derfyled
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What about the new S MINI high CRI from Olight ? It has everything you need.

Here’s a review: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/61411

Dr Forinor
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Geuzzz wrote:
Dr Forinor wrote:
Emisar D4 with an 18350 tube and the SST-20 4000k 95CRI option, now ordered.

Better order some 18350s. That D4 will really torture 16340s.

I have a couple of 18350s lying around. Not ideal but let’s see how it is.

Dr Forinor
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derfyled wrote:
What about the new S MINI high CRI from Olight ? It has everything you need.

Here’s a review: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/61411

Thank you for your suggestion. I did consider this but it’s not the perfect one for me. With it’s 5500k, it’s too cool (no pun intended) for me.

jon_slider
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Dr Forinor wrote:
EDC-able, CR123, High CRI, Neutral White, decent distance

well… after reviewing your post history, I see you have owned HDS Rotary, Haiku, Sinner, and many others, yet you are still searching..

there must be a few criteria (size? weight? beam?) that are causing you to keep looking.. at least now you want High CRI

I note you dislike Green Tint, I do too. Hope to hear if you find the SST-20 in the D4 not too green

most of the lights you bought have just 3 or 4 modes

imo the HDS Rotary has the most intuitive and flexible UI.. I suggest you get it modded to an N219b 4500k 9080 (or do you find the HDS too large and heavy?)

you are not far from CRX, he is an exceptional modder, the trick is to find an N219b.. the 4500k 9080 is the pick of the litter imo. Not sure which host you would prefer for it.

Im carrying an N219b 4500k 9080 in a Jetbeam RRT-01 magnetic rotary. It weights almost half as much as my HDS Rotary. I like the RRT-01 UI better.

you seem to favor expensive lights, and seem to like titanium.. the Niteye Eye10 TIC might be your cup of tea, with a Nichia 219b LED mod it would be unbeatable imo.. My RRT-01 (same light, but not Titanium) makes over 350 lumens, more than any HDS, and the low is also lower than any HDS.. Plus the grip to use the light is imo much more comfortable, and there is no need to push a button before turning the dial…
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?346026

Jerommel
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MascaratumB wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
But CR123A is very good for EDC-ing because you don’t have to worry about leaving it fully charged for a long time, about charging the battery at all, about running out of juice in a short time. The draw back is that you can’t count on more than 250 lumen output. CR123A is a low drain battery. But with those low powers it will last even longer. The Klarus Mi1C is a nice little light. Although i don’t like the aspheric lens as an optic. (but you could modify it with a 30 – 60° TIR optic).

Yup, you’re right! Considering this, please be noted that all my suggestions were in the direction of those lights due to the output on 16340 batteries (I don’t use CR123A batteries on my lights, they are not easy to find, and I prefer to recharge than to buy and then throw them out)!

Yes, good points, and i prefer rechargeable high power cells too.
But for example for a woman’s purse, a small CR123A light is great for the rare times that you need it.
The battery will last like 10 years maybe, when you only use it a few times a year.
Or having a CR123A light in the glove compartment of a car can also be good for 10 years when it’s only for emergencies or other rare occasions.
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Klarus does make a high-CRI Mi1C with a 5000K 219C if the D4’s form factor ends up not working out. Its UI may leave a bit to be desired though.

Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android | Zak Reviews – my flashlight reviews, with lots of runtime graphs

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